I deploy 4G connected construction sites in the UK. Done over 600 now. I use the Proroute H685 which you can get from the "3G Router store" in the UK. They are industrial routers and run off 12v, so you could run it off a old car battery. A Directional Yagi antenna was definitely the best way to go in your case.

We fit these setups weekly all over the place with no physical broadband connections. A MikroTik LHGGM&EG18-EA Dish with a class 18 LTE modem a pair of Ubiquiti LOCO5AC NanoStation's and a Ubiquiti Flex USW 5 Less weight, less kit to be hit by windage plus your router is in the end of the dish with no loss in antenna cables. Bit of armoured cat 5 all the way back to the house and you can power it all via PD POE. Power the Flex 5 port switch via the house then it can provide its own poe for the Nanostation and dish. All runs on 24v.

Small note: download and upload speeds are normally measured in mega/giga bits per second (lowercase 'b'). Bits are one eighth of a byte, so with a 50Mbps upload speed, it'd take roughly 8 seconds to upload a 50MB file. This looks excellent. My parents live in rural Wales, and have struggled with BT broadband speeds for some time. I'm hoping we'll be able to set something like this up for them!

Thanks for the video! Here are some thoughts and tips you might find useful for living off-grid and building skills in the area of the video: Adding silica gel to the container with the router will help keep humidity at bay, which can cause long-term malfunctions. You might also be able to replace the transformer on the 3 router to avoid inversion loss. Consider using a cheap voltage regulator component with a small heatsink on a 12V supply to match the required voltage. This avoids the power waste of going up to 240V and back down to the voltage the 3 router uses, allowing you to use 12V directly. Even better efficiency can be achieved with a switching power supply, but the voltage regulator is more cost-effective, essentially acting like a large transistor that turns extra voltage into heat. For solar panels, look into minor defect panels sold by the pallet, costing around £10-£20 per 200W panel. Hydro is a very smart solution, and I'm excited to hear more about it. For wind or hydro, if it were a water wheel, perhaps you could use an alternator also from the scrapyard! If you have a 3D printer, you can print Archimedes wind turbines from design files on Thingiverse. While the original design doesn't use hard drive magnets, you could modify it to use old hard drive magnets to make it cheaper, or find a design that already does. You can use the copper wire from the transformer for the windings. Add a £10 PWM controller in line with this to top up a cheap car battery or two from a scrapyard to complete the solution. You can get over 30% more efficiency with an MPPT controller at about 5x the cost. Amateur radio isn't a fast or practical solution for high-speed internet, but it's fascinating and offers valuable off-grid skills. Amateurs can access the internet through stations in countries where it's legal, relaying unencrypted internet to this country over the radio (but your passwords are in the open). They can use VHF APRS for emails and SMS, talk to those in their area using local repeaters, or access Winlink nodes on HF bands to communicate and access emails extremely remotely for free using the tendancy of HF to bounce off the atmosphere. There's also packet radio (like the way people connected computers in mass networks before the internet), SSTV (a type of fax used for the transmisson of the very first memes), and amateur satellites. You can even relay APRS messages through the International Space Station with two £30 radios and a yagi antenna! I know you haven't directly spoken about this, but one of my interests is off-grid data prepping. Check out Anna's Archive; it's a complete collection of most books and scientific papers ever published that you can download via torrent. I'm interested in all aspects of off-grid living and would love to see content on simple DIY wood gas generators, biogas generators, and carp aquaponics, which is supposedly possible outdoors in the UK but im not sure about scotland. I heard somewhere that the antennas on cell masts are typically a type of, electrically directional, phased array. They become directional based on user locations and optimize over time. Living in remote Scotland sounds amazing, especially being able to turn up my music at night without disturbing anyone. Looking forward to more updates and tips on off-grid living!

Brilliant this is what we should be doing, building and working around keeps the grey cells active. Hope you'll call it Bargin Link. Cheers Mick

Just checked the masts around my area and see that I have LOS. After testing a few spots, it’s up to 4x faster than my current spot. Thanks for inspiring me to research, I might make a wall mounted receiver with just a direct line into my house!

Enjoying all the views of your countryside - thanks for sharing ! Off-grid is challenging, but it can be done. Best of luck to you folks. :) I was watching mostly for the scenery, and listening to you talk about the 3G and 4G stuff. Watching you build in high speed is quite a trip - and It's all good! :)

Love the improvised hammer. Great video.

I'd suggest given the size that those LTE antennas have far more gain than is necessary. Especially given the tower is LOS, relatively close and you saw better results with a standalone mobile phone. Try using the antennas built into the 4G router - you may see better results. I'd also recommend running your speed test with an ethernet cable between your laptop and router rather than over WiFi. Best of luck!

17:30 - as a radio amateur, and seeing that you have LOS to the tower, I can already foresee problems with signal overloading (we call it desense) try again, but point the antennae in the OPPOSITE direction to the mast. A Yagi antenna like you have there has the active element at the back, and the passive directors in front simply 'concentrate the signal in one direction. Facing it in the opposite direction exposes the active elements only to the transmitter mast and will lower the input signal to the router telling you if it's actually an overload problem. You can liken it to someone standing on the opposite side of a room talking quietly and you can't hear them. If they shout, you can hear them. But if they stand next to you and shout, it's too loud. You may well find that you have a good setup, but just too much input. The only other thing to say is the mast is totally inadequate for the load. The guy lines are good, but the final section with the Yagis on have no support other than the sleeved section and will quickly fail. Honestly, if you get good reception with the back lobe of the antennas, then just swap to a smaller patch style antenna (the box you describe: Poynting make good kit for this) - I'm sorry to say I'm a proper nerd for this kinda thing :)

Another great video… we appreciate your efforts. Quality entertainment and great info

Really really interesting video looking forward to the next update on this .

My family and I lived on a solar sailboat I made for 2 years. your going to hit the limit in just a few days. star link is amasing

For a more stable mast you could use aluminium truss, normally used for rigging lighting or speakers for concert halls. There's a plethora of mounting accessories and it won't rust.

Given the forward (direction you're pointing in) gain of the receive aerials you may be able to do the whole thing passively, without power. Use one of your receive aerials to point to the distant mast. Use the other to point to your property. Connect the two together with a single co-ax. You will have to get the lead length correct. At your property you should then find your phones work with a much higher signal level, and therefore faster speeds. As for the dual polarisation, using a H and V polarised aerial, try rotating the receive Ariel through 45 deg relative to the horizon. Its at least worth a try as it is free and power free. Passive re-radiators are used throughout Wales & Scotland for TV and radio services to fill in reception holes caused by hills and valleys.

Watching this video takes me back to the eighties, early nineties. I was in the Signals Territorials. Our specific task (after a nuclear war) was to do basically what you are doing. That is, go to the highest peaks in every county, from Scotland to London and set up VHF voice/data relay stations. One antenna pointed to the previous antenna and one pointed to the next in the chain, and so on. If you were thinking of taking power up there. A 6A circuit, over that distance, would require a 10mm two core armoured cable to comply with volt drop. So about £800+ for the cable alone.

If you were getting 50 up and 200 down from a phone, which has a tiny omnidirectional antenna, I’d be tempted to just use a decent omnidirectional antenna. Good video, very informative, thank you.

I don't really know the layout of your property close to where your current house is, but with those high gain antennas even a few hundred ft away from your current house and pointing towards the tower, you should be able to get a an almost as equal signal as you would get up on the hill. As long as the other Hill that is up beside your house is not in the way too much cell phone frequencies are pretty good at penetrating a little bit of dirt, so even if you are skimming the edge of the hill. If the antennas are down by your house, you'll still get a pretty good signal with those big antennas

You might try a passive repeater. Three of your beam aerials, one pointing at the cell tower, connected directly to one pointed at the house, then at the house one pointed too your field mast. No power required. I have a friend on Mull that used this technique technique to get TV to his house and it worked well. Worth trying before you spend money money on cables etc. I don't think your small hydro will work, the system will need a good mass flow with the low pressure of a stream. Your water generation system will be more complex than you think.

Great job, well considered. An ebike hub motor is handy for a little water generator. I noticed you have worked on a solution there I will check the vid out, dont forget to keep you battery warm in winter as the cold sucks it empty fast and vented in summer as thermal throttling can be a pain to. I will have a ponder on your solution and give you a shout if anything comes to mind 🙂

Great video Mobile broadband varies wildly depends on how many other connections there are to the cell as your finding in the video consecutive tests produce different results. Sometimes I get a burst of 70 megabits but after a few seconds settles to about 20-30 megabits/sec. ps. A megabit is speed, a megabyte is size

Nice setup there, i have been using 4g from home for a few years and recently upgraded to 5g. One thing i have learned is that router specs are really important, using a 4g router cat18 gave me full 150/160 down and 50/60 up with direct line of sight to the tower while the one supplied by the company was only like cat6 so upload specially was pretty limited. Now 5g is a different beast with latency rivaling fiber and 300/400 mbps download, but uploads appear to use the 4g bands since max is still around 50mbps

I think You should get a proper mast where your house will be and point the directional antenna to the BTS mast, no power issues and signal straight from 4G router without sending it to house. Regards Richard from Southampton UK 🇬🇧

Personally, I would not bother with Antanas as the mast is so close you will probably get good speeds without it. As well the internal aerial inside the Three 4G plus router supports different polarization while the external antenna ports do not. Polarization is the angle the radio signal is travelling, think of 3D glasses. I've also checked the mains adaptor for the Three Plus rougher which is 12v DC, so could be wired to an old car battery.

I would consider renting an RF Signal meter or a Spectrum analyzer for maximum signal gain/best reception on your two antennae.

I added a WeBoost kit to the house for telephone and as a back-up when the power is off. It's 5G once in a while. The point is WeBoost said to separate the in and out antenna as far as possible to limit interference. I use a 1000 W power hub (Jackery) for total blackout. Starlink draws 72 Watts. (110V AC) Toaster draws 690W. Then the sun comes up and power comes on. High desert helps as I get sun nearly every day. 24 Panels 16 batteries. Power only goes out when I get sloppy. A mate of mine used to run high voltage DC for sunlight challenged clients. Some were hundreds of feet. High voltage = smaller copper wire. He is no longer here to ask about it. Main point of this is antenna separation. Carry on sir.

Put the cable in the ground, looks mainly like gras land down to the house. If there is no stone's in the ground you can easily put the cable 5 cm deep with making a «cut» trench with a showel. I manage a 70m run in a couple of hours on farmland.

Just brought a clark mast qt-15 meter jobbie, mint condition for 2006 build with tripod & middle & top guying gear. Got major boost in speed though using omni-directional antenna. Oh & a ZT-11mtr for a wind turbine at some stage too be mounted to a lorry project.

I use a Three 4G Plus roughter unlocked off ebay for £35, paired with a promotional £10 Unlimated data Lebara Sim card. Even though I lives in a town with broadband, I find this setup cheaper and fast enough for my needs.

I lived in a caravan in rural Galloway for two years about 2014 ish, I had a satellite setup I forget the name of the company. It was about 300ish for the dish and router. I mounted the dish on a paving slab, which was enough to keep it from moving about but still light enough to be portable. Dish was huge, the system worked very well for the most part, it could struggle with heavy cloud but was better than I expected. I still have the dish, I have no idea if the companies still exist but it might be an alternative to starlink. I suspect the 4g option is the better bet, especially with electronic sims now, you can have a collection of payg accounts and turn on the one with best reception in the area.

Very interesting video thanks

I would try the setup down at the caravan, no messing about. Those yagi antennas will be fine down there, get hold of a vna so you can properly tune your antennas and cable. I think you will loose far more with the wifi than you will with those trees on the 4g, wifi drops fast at legal power levels even at line of sight

18:25 a middle man mast is just called a signal repeater, in Alaska we have repeaters mtn to mtn and then directional signal throwers from there branched off to hit main city the repeaters connect to rack other mainly as a wireless data trunk cable with long thick cables cost and digging or infrastructure upkeep problems ocean trunk wires though do do very well sending alot of information securely to each other

I did WiFi over 4 miles many years ago weather will be your fun. Get an old telegraph pole concreted in that will give you plenty of height and you can put ladder up it. Will also be more stable than thin poles. I have a 15 ft scaffold concreted in at my land for point to point WiFi but it waves in the wind.

Although you are probably over-modulating the signal, a pole option you should try is a scaffolding put lock pole, about 1m high, 2 x swivel couplers and a 4m pole, you post hammer the 1m into the ground leaving half protruding, fasten the 4m to a swivel coupler at the bottom of both poles and raise up right and couple the top, this way you have a none climb serviceable mast. no guides are required.

Those TP-Link dishes can work fine (I used one in my back garden to beam wifi into a cabin) but I have found them to be occasionally troublesome. The software (Pharos I think it’s called) is quite technical. Best of luck with it though!!

Did you change the router settings to 'use external antennas' ?

To power: Get a small travel inverter and a couple of small solar panels, and a small 12v lithium ion battery. Put the battery and inverter in a sealed plastic box and partially bury. Morten at Myplayhouse set up something similar in Portugal. Your point to point wifi should be fine if you use good kit.

Do you get a connection to the 4g without the poll etc at the house?

Did you get a better pole? I think the flex will really interfere with your connection on your network.?

I know you said you didn't want cables but could you look at power over ethernet (PoE) would remove the latency between beaming signal between the mast and caravan and then also send power back up to router on hill. PoE+ gives 30w and can go bigger with other standards

Thank you, keep working.

Looking at your yagi antennas couldn't work out if you had done this, but, might be a good test if you orientated one 45deg to horizontal and other 135deg, to cater for wave polarisation? Mimic a mimo antenna?? Sorry if that was the case, couldn't see from the video

What engine is in your defender? On the 200tdi and 300tdi you can get an upgraded turbo

Hi, i'm not sure about that particular model but you may you have to log into your 4g modem and manually enable your external aerials. Default would be just the internal aerials. Good luck!

The big thing with LTE setups is having a Cat 18/20 level radio (an M.2 one) with your Yaggie array weather it be 2/4/6/8 antennas, LTE setups with a dedicated mini PC and radio with IPEX to SMA to BNC/TNC adapters are far better then the consumer router setups (can run add blocking on the network level too) also you can run it all off standard 12v etc so a small solar setup can work all year round for a affixed station. I am stuck on VDSL2 with a 2-3k cost to update to Fibre so I wasted a few weeks on this as a project just did not have the money or time to get scaffolding up to deploy antennas properly.

Run the power cable! For the distance is a no brainer. Every other option is far more complex and you will regret it every time you are up that hill fixing it! Buy 2 core 1.5mm armoured. Put a DC power supply at the house end which suits the voltage required by the kit (prob 24v). Use a decent AC-DC PSU like Meanwell, you can adjust these to account for voltage drop. Done the above myself on a run over 300m. Ran fibre alongside to eliminate the wireless link.

The angles is for polarisation but you might need to check if its 45° offset or if its just horizontal and vertical

interesting and nice video.. and the face slap was quite nice also ;)

I used a long length of (galvanised) scaffold pole on my setup which gets it's signal from about 6-7 miles away. your little mast is a bit flimsy for those yagi antennae. You're fortunate to have a 4G signal. we didn't get a signal till a couple of years ago, and relied on (also expensive, but also data limited) satellite connection.

You have a better speed than i do on BT Fibre at the moment. They fixed for about an hour and down to sloooow again!

Same in the Philippines the Kit is very expensive compared in some countries like Germany or Italy and they say it was 30-40% the price and the Billing system is ----

Maybe this has been asked before, but are the electricity lines passing through the property suitable to take a grid connection off? Or maybe you've done the math and micro hydro is a better long term investment? Thanks!

Personally I have a similar setup for a remote cctv system. I'm using a solar panel with charge controller and also a car battery which seems to run it lovely! These routers are generally 12v which of course works well with those routers

All RF signals travel in straight lines (although very slightly pulled from gravity), they don't twist or change, but you may however also receive reflections of the original wave. The RF wave will come at you at the polisation it was transmitted at, so you don't need both a vertical and horizontal antenna; do recommend watching the signal gain and twisting for ultimate results.

A tall tower at the homebase with those two yagi's will work without creating any power problems in a field.

27:00 20W seems way more than should be needed. I think look out for more power efficient hardware and go with a small solar cell. For the meantime you can use it with a small solar cell while the sun is shining.

What website did you use to find your radio tower?

My Play House on YT that has done exactly this and powered the mast with solar and a lithium battery. Admittedly that is in Portugal.

Good job.

Just as an FYI, you might find that the wind loading on that system is pretty high for Scottish wind. I base that on 40 years experience installing amateur radio antenna systems in Scotland. It's the gusting that does the damage. Normally a bit of "give" can be helpful, but not with directional antennas. There would be nothing worse than a failure in deep winter when it's difficult to get up and fix it.

Scaffolding poll would do nicely for that job mate

I'm wondering if there is a passive unpowered antenna setup which could redirect and passively repeat the signal? If so, you could avoid having to setup a power station on the hill. Two high gain antennae joined by coaxial cable. One pointed at the tower, and the other one pointed at the house window. Might work.

Awesome defender 😊

Have you thought about a passive antennas solution? Wire the two log periodic antennas together, point one at source and one towards destination...

A Zyxel modem/panel antenna is a very robust all-in-one outdoor router with around 13dB gain and Cat 18 receiver. Can get up to 600Mbps if the base has the backhaul capacity. Here in remote Wester Ross I can get 130Mbps at a site that has pretty weak ordinary cellphone service.

1:30 I envy your granite hammering block. It looks rather gneiss.

19:50 'the uploads have always been pretty good...'. I think you meant downloads. And if the Starlink 'degrades quite quickly with cloud'... you are in Scotland. Subscribed, as my future will be off-grid.

Ex Royal Signals. We used Pneumatic masts for Mobile Radio Relay. Masts were as solid as 👌

To get more throughput or data rates, you will want to use MIMO. For this, you will need an LTE radio that supports it (most radios support at least 2x2 or even 4x4 MIMO). Most smartphones today support 4x4 MIMO, so most standalone LTE modems should also support it. In theory, a 4x4 MIMO configuration will use 4 transmit and 4 receive antennas, and it will multiplex the 4 streams to provide you a higher speed. Your maximum speed will also depend on the carrier bandwidth the network operator is using and the number of users using the same tower. Other mechanisms in LTE like carrier aggregation can help you get even faster throughput, but it depends on both the network provider and your equipment capabilities. 100 Mbps is not bad, but you could get 3x that speed.

I consistently get 11 up on starlink, although we may just have less clouds in the western US. For my use case star link wins out as I do not upload and need very responsive ping. Cool that you can have internet for 10 quid

Directional antennas are very very picky with angle I’ve found…1mm off axis and speed can drop by a 1/4. I’ve set one up 4miles from mast 4g and get 80 down and 40up. Phone line was 2.

Ive just seen this video in my recommend. The only thing id add is to check what 4G bands you have access to on your sim. Not sure what network you are using but I know some sub networks of big providers will restrict what 4G bands you have access to. This can also apply if a sim is PAYG and not on a contract

With those high-gain antennas, you don't necessarily need a line of sight to achieve a strong, stable signal. Mounting them directly on the house can save you both the cost and hassle of running power to your mast. I've installed hundreds of Yagis in rural areas where there was no signal at all using just a regular phone. Before investing a lot of time, effort, and money, try mounting the antennas down at the house. Additionally, if there are hills in the opposite direction of the tower, they can act as reflectors, as radio waves bounce off hills. You might also want to check if it's possible to lock the router to a specific band/frequency, as in areas like this, the 800MHz (band 20) or 900MHz (band 8) tend to perform better than 1800MHz (band 3) and 2100MHz (band 1). Some routers allow you to choose the band in the firmware, while others are set to auto. If the router is connected to a too high frequency, the upload speed is the first to suffer. If band selection isn't possible in the firmware, you can connect a band-pass filter between the antenna and the router. It seems like you have the version with a 7m coaxial cable. The signal loss for the cable is approximately -0.50dB/m. By shortening the cable length, you can gain around 3.5dB. If you decide to proceed with your mast, consider making it more sturdy, and think about spacing the Yagis a bit. There should ideally be a minimum of 1 meter between them. One should be mounted horizontally and the other vertically. If you have line of sight and the sector antennas on the tower are facing you, you might experience issues due to excessive RF signal. In that case, you can connect an attenuator between the router and the antenna.

I used a offset feed sat dish for 4G.....and like other people have really good results. They only have issues if you need a tall mast mount,in which case a proper microwave,mesh dish is a must have. some people in Australia in a group I belonged to, could get decent performance at something like 40km. In many areas, the real problem is the contention (customer load) on the cell tower. They can be really badly loaded at certain times of day, and it really hurts performance.

i think you can supply seperate inverters to the same bat bank , the inverters should have reverse current diodes fitted

I have a similar problem with out Scottish self build. There is no line of sight to the mast which is over the hill. I'm hoping to find a passive repeater solution but don't know what im doing😅. Wish I knew more about these things.

It's not just line of sight to the transmitter, you have to consider the fresnel effect.

Off the wall answer possibly large parabolic dish to reflect signal down the glen ?? or more sensible large solar panels TradeSparky £67 new 415watts x 2, a solar charge controller prob lead acid battery (prefer lithium but heated battery ££ ) should do even overcast days , but i agree with other posts simplest but not liked by you understandably cable , but prob need to run AC re voltage drop , POE sounds good but looks like a fair distance. Thanks for video .

If youre running power to it then consider PoE (power over ethernet), issue is that cat6 can only do 100m, so youll need a repeater, but hey, at least half of the way is done and you have a physical connection.

Similar situation in NZ. However, about 10km not LOS off-grid - down far end of a twisty valley. We got occasional 1 bar of 3/4g on phone presumably bouncing off hills. To my pleasant surprise an MR600 4G router gets pretty reliable signal 1-3bars, no extra antennas. If your wife’s phone gets good signal, a decent mobile router should do even better, even without antennas. I’ve got Starlink kit ready too, but uses quite a bit of off-grid power in comparison. Ive got Starlink at my on-grid home too and it’s great! However, Starlink router not great so Ethernet about 2x the speed! To test fairly, use Ethernet or ‘advance speed test’ in phone app. Doing a PC test like you did tests the WiFi and laptop as much as Starlink. Starlinks new half-price ‘deprioritised’ service is great, if in UK yet. Have you tried 4G router in locations at your house? May pick up bounced signals from hills etc, or consider an MR600 perhaps -seems a popular off-grid router, though yours looks good too.

I’ve only spent a couple of weeks in Scotland in my life, but I know it’s a tad cool up there, so here’s the question: do you get freezing rain? If so, ice is going to build up on those yagis, and the weight of the ice will bend and/or destroy them. First hand experience, though not in Scotland.

If you are considering running a cable instead of your point to point . You could power your modem via POE ( Power Over Ethernet ) . That being said how is the modem ( ok router ) going to cope in the colder / harsher conditions? You may need to enclose a resistor to act as a heater . Which of course is more power burden although doable. The only other option is high grade coax which lets all the electronics be closer to the home. This puts the coax in the “ expensive “ bracket . Finally you could compromise and enclose the router near the hydro source and if necessary run two turbines . So many permutations but all good fun

I would rotate the internet receive antennas and see if you can improve on the speed. Maybe configure 1 for horizontal and the other vertical, move them around and test until you get the best throughput. When testing internet speed on your laptop, plug in a UTP cable to make sure you have the best connectivity. Then line up your wifi PtP and test in a similar way using signal strength. Good luck, look forward to seeing the power solution.

To get that setup on battery + solar panels, refer to 24V PoE. You'll discover that it ist just 24V attached to some wires of the LAN cable. If you then use Mikro Tik and Ubiquity dishes (I never tested TPlink) the equipment works from slightly above 7V up to abt. 28V. Building a 4S LiFePo4 battery pack with a 7€ battery manager PCB serves as a 12..16V supply. Add a cheap solar MPPT module and a 60W panel and you're done. Basically, that is what we use in the AREDN (Amateur radio Emergency Data Network). You can add a switch to be able to connect your notebook locally for configuration or to add additional WiFi antennas to connect to future buildings on your fields or have internet while driving your mower... But generally, search for AREDN setups and follow the hardware examples. But do not install the AREDN software on your devices as that makes them illegal without licensing and emergency situation.

At just 10 quid per "line" perhaps you could get 2 SIMs and then bond the lines together using Multilink PPP or similar? You'd double the bandwidth while still coming in at less than Starlink. Not sure if your gear can do it but its worth a look?

All tests should be run over Ethernet as you need to isolate the WiFi element so that you are only testing the 4G element, now of course having drunk the apple coolaid you won't be able to do this without purchasing what should be standard spec, an Ethernet adapter.

My directional antenna(1) is about 1 foot long, and the same shape you are using. I don't have a direct line of sight and I pick up pretty far away. You might have a little over kill on your antennas

Hello, the LTE Modem/Router is not weather proof, so in a final setup I'd recommend placing it inside one of those metal or plastic hermetic enclosure used in networking like this.

The LTE modem probably runs on 12 volt DC, so you don’t need an inverter. However, avoid connecting a car battery directly because it goes over 12 volts. In such cases, you’ll need a buck converter. I would start by testing with a small solar panel and a car battery to see if it works.

29:05 what did you expect in that area? The network in this rural areas is running on cat4 tech and I would guess it uses 800Mhz band with 5Mhz channel width. Forget about channel bundling. That is used in cities with high coverage.

What will you do with the redundant starlink equipment?

We live off grid in Scotland too. Can’t believe I’ve only just found your channel! Generate all our own electricity using wind/pv. We’ve gone the other way to you and ditched 4g for Starlink! Problem we had relying on a single mast was the frequent drop outs, sometimes for hours. Not sure if it was just this mast in particular or if they’re all like that and most people don’t notice because they have several masts their devices switch between? The dropouts played havoc with our WiFi heating controls and various other smart switches we have to harvest as much power as we can when batteries are full. Going to watch all your other vids now! Good luck, it’s a constant challenge but worth it 😊

😃the antennas at +45° and -45° are correct but they should be at a greater distance from each other, no less than 20cm between the longest elements, coaxial cables as short as possible because being thin they lose a lot of signal, it's a matter of cm, yes Starlink it is the last choice due to costs if there are no alternatives, many people are fascinated and fall for it then perhaps they are covered by 5G or have to do as you did, you will need a photovoltaic system and DC-DC converters if necessary, to power everything without an inverter

Cheapest option would be Mikotik SXT LTE6 . Perhaps it would even work from down in the valley.

We're did you get your trousers and shirt from ?

You can use an old hand drill as a turbine, just need the windmill / propeller. which you could even make your self, if you only need just a bit more than 5 volts (You said USB Power), with a small AGM battery, (removing the drill battery) you should be fine getting wind off that hill.

Very cool project! …Maybe you can get modem with basic TV channels included for the almost same price with mobile home broadband now as well?! (That seems to be where home broadband over 4g/5g is heading now in Europe.) Btw don’t forget some ground / protection of your investment against lightning⚡️🌩️⛈️ Thank you for an interesting video!😊

Unless its something to do with uk but i bought starlink roam for a friend of mine and he does lorry driving so far 2 weeks in its working great around europe ping averaging 20/30 goes up to 50 very rare, upload is usually around 10mbs we game like 8 hours a day in evenings and so far he only had few packet losses

What’s the website you used to check what that cell tower is putting out???