Shouldn't be doing that yourself chances are that things cracked by now and unsafe.

@@andyc8225 I have one from 1981….changed the burner, combustion chamber, no CO2 leaks and I service it every year …..

Just fixed a dryer for someone with the same issues. Thermal fuse open. PACKED with lint. High limit should always be changed when thermal opens. ( whirlpool recommends it, as well as other manufacturers) Was yours full of lint too?

I'm sure the customers appreciate that as well, not smelling like oil when your servicing their residential drinking water.

I do the same. Next season the screen at the nozzle will definitely have some bypassed muck that got pushed through with the brush. New pump strainers are a dollar. Every year every job the customer gets new filter, strainer and nozzle. brake cleaner spray down, electrode set, disassembly brush out and vac and safety confirmation. Then a combustion analysis with Testo 320 currently calibrated and a printout. Before and after vac out pics sent to customers phone. Keeps them informed in the loop and happy. Good job as always Steve.

@@deanrusso2855 how much do you charge for all of that and what state you in?

it nothing compared to an m1000 turbo 2 stroke or detroit 2 stroke

That's the funniest thing I've seen in a long time!!!! 11:50 to 13:50

its like a 2 stroke sled motor

kick start it like my yamaha yz250

a m1000 2 stroke arcticat delivers far mo explosion than this thing can every have, hell my OMC rotary wankle can our do it many times over.

throw it out

A Beckett z gauge will give you the correct position of electrodes

Yup intermittemt fire..normally caused by the elctrodes being off with a clogging nozzle

If you press the reset button more than once as Steve has explained in the past, you are dumping fuel into the combustion chamber. Once you fix the spark problem it will fire and cause the blow back puff until excess fuel is burned off…..

kevin kellner when they are cracked you change them

They are the cheapest part of a trouble or repeat call, if I could NOT clean um up new WHITE and I found no other cause, it’s the least expensive (ie motor, controls etc) and many times the culprit. I used many porcelains over 35 years.......call back % the least in the outfit.........

A manometer

my omc rotary sled can out do it

It can be oil that is sprayed into the chamber before the igniters have a chance to fire it. Usually caused by the 2 being 2 far from the nozzle end. Any of the following, igniters 2 high, extend 2 far past nozzle, 2 far apart or even 2 close together not allowing enough spark that's produced by the transformer.

Ed P i do work on long island if you need anything

I’m in the Hamptons. Just saying. Thx

Arvada Mechanical. Call them at (516)260-HEAT. They’re the best!!

NY Boiler and Air Condition repair. I just got one fixed.

A 5 to 8 sec delay on fire is fine, only if it has a solenoid valve above the oil pump. It waits for oil pump to come up to pressure before starting. Then you should see the green light.

He done many he does it in his sleep!

1/8 1/8 1/8... Pretty common..

clean out the oil

Light a small piece of paper and toss it in to burn off the oil

that's too dangerous, soak up as much oil as possible first.

dave12546 how

Usually intails a smoky basement for 5 minutes

Explosive starts were caused by wrongly adjusted electrodes.

could also be the pump solenoid not working properly leaving excess oil

Depending on the pump if it has no delay valve it’s not a clean cut pump but some pumps you have to adjust oil pressure out of the box they are usually 100 psi you can look at the sides of the burner if you don’t see a sticker that says set pump to x psi then that’s not your issue but if you see that sticker and it said 130 or whatever then you have to adjust the pump pressure

and continues to explode

jason 85% 😊

The coil adds slack to the line for servicing

not a fan, looks like crap IMHO. back to that Burnham, Who puts the boiler control and the service switch like that??

Aptly named a "service loop". Allows the door on the front of the boiler to be opened for cleaning the chamber with out having to disconnect the oil line from the burner.

i agree, shit wok to put a switch there like that.

was originally meant to reduce vibration and if you needed to reflare you had extra to do so as most were in the pour of the floor.

Michael Morassi bad motor would lock up usually and you can test the ohms bad pump wont bleed

bad pumps, don't pump to set pressure, make noise, or will have afterfire as in this video. when off, it should drop to 80% of run pressure and hold that pressure, with no afterfire.

If its making a bang noise on start up ? Like a bunch of Fuels being ignited at once ? NO it shouldn't. The igniters need adjustment. Probably too far apart and letting oil build up in the chamber before it ignites.

@@stevenjackson7067 Thank You, will adjust and see. Will reply with results.

You can buy a Beckett igniter tip setter. It's orange in color and slips over the end of the Nozzle assembly. It let's you set the igniters the right distance from the Nozzle and the igniter assembly the proper distance from the burn chamber. Easy to use. Even I could use it.. lol.. Nasgauge part number T100-202. I've had it a few years and can't remember what I paid for it. Was cheaper than a service call, which he didn't fix the problem. It stopped the bang, more heat and no black smoke or oil smell coming out the chimney.

While you gave it opened up I'd clean the cad eye or as some call it "the cats eye". It recognizes the flame and if there isn't one or it doesn't see on it will shut the burner off. By then it's run 30-45 seconds, depending on control, and shot fuel in the chamber that length of time. If you hit the red button to restart it the igniters will ignite the fumes in the chamber and boom. Don't hit that red button more than once if it doesn't fire up. If you do it will go boom and the excess fuel in the chamber will burn off creating more heat than the chamber may be able to handle. Also if you have a weak transformer it may not give the necessary spark to ignite the fuel. Let's start with the cheaper and easier fix first and that's adjustment of the igniters.

@@stevenjackson7067 Thanks for response, all thoughts are appreciated, will try different things and post success or failure.

That i believe is a manometer used to detect pressure differential measured in inches of water

Update : cleaned nozzle and cassette. Cleaned and adjusted electrodes. Good as new now

To keep the stinkin ass diesel off his hands im sure.