These 2 wiring videos were very helpful.

Great and neat job of wiring guys! Can’t wait to see her in the water.

Love the way you are working together and the job you’re doing keep going your making a lot of memories one day when you have your 31 foot Bertram you guys could look back and say remember when we did that 😅

The 6ga wire that grounds the bus bar for the switches should be run back to the battery instead of to the other fuse block. This will prevent noise from ground loop currents. ✌🏼

Great video again well done!

Thanks so much papo Im doing my Audio next im moving to the center console, panel electrical doing it all myself, this video was very and informative useful 🙏🏼☺️

Good stuff guys. I usually jump my output to the illumination + so I know when the device is being powered. Also I use circuit breakers so I don't have to worry about fuses. But looks nice guys. Looking forward to seeing it float.

Great video! I’m also in middle of fixing up a older Grady White myself at the moment and this gave me great advice . Totally had my mind blown when I saw you walking in to River Marine .. I live down the street!

GOOD JOB, MAN THANKS

Awesome video

Good video. How did you determine the gauge of wire? Is there a standardized chart for boating? I build experimental airplanes and we have a guide for the amps & length of run and the fuse is there to protect the wire. We are just waiting a sea trial on a 38’ boat and I’m going to need to do some electrical work on it so was curious.

Nicely done! Your attention to detail is appreciated! Minor point of contradiction: Label #'s 8 & 6 must be swapped on the Diagram. The Diagram that you are showing at 5:38 (the Terminals on the back of the Switch) doesn't seem to match the actual Switches being used (at 2:10). The Switch Terminal #'s and their uses are: #2 is the Line side of the Switch (from Fuse Block). OK.✅ #3 is the Load side of the Switch (to a Load or "Appliance" Pos+). OK.✅ #8 is normally the Input for the Indicator Light (from your Fuse Block, since you are powering them all the time). OK.✅ #7 is the Negative for the Light (to the Neg. bus on Fuse Block). Jump all the #7's together, then to the Neg. bus on the Fuse Block. OK.✅ When you show the actual Switches (2:10) the Black wire is landed on *two* Terminals on each Switch... Weird. (And, they were factory wired that way). But, on the Diagram, (5:38), #7 & #8 are shown side by side (which is normal, but would never be jumped together - the Lights wouldn't work, and it would short the Battery, if they were jumped together, since #8 is Fused Pos. and #7 is Neg.) You put Red on #8, & Blk on #7, (which is correct), not Blk on both... (Your actual Switches have Blk on two Terminals)... Why? The diagram also shows #3 & #6 side-by-side, (as they normally would be). #3 is the Load side of the Switch. #6 does nothing in your configuration, but, again, the actual Switches have the Black wire landed on two Terminals on each Switch. It appears that the Diagram has the Tags for #8 & #6 swapped, which would put #8 next to #3 (which is how your actual Switches seem to be connected), and the factory apparently jumped #6 & #7 together with #6 not actually connected to anything inside the Switch. (#6 would normally be the Load side of a Double Pole Switch, where a Terminal #5 would be the Line Side of the second Pole.) Again, there is only one Negative Terminal on each Switch, (a 5- or 6-Terminal Switch, anyway), but the Switches actually have Black landed on two Terminals. Basically, I am saying that whomever tagged the Diagram numbers 6 & 8 got them backwards. Maybe a translation error on the Diagram for these Amazon Switch blocks. Your actual wiring is great! This is nearly identical to my 19' boat's setup. I have an additional Negative bus at the helm, as there is more room at the stern for my fuse block. Thank you for the effort and time this took to document and explain!

Something that i have gotten into the habit of, offset the + and - joints. They will pull through and tuck away better. Not even a shade tree here, cars, trailers, and boats on a farm for like 30 years

Just found the channel, great videos! Question about your NAV / ANCHOR light setup - does your ANCHOR light illuminate when your NAV lights are illuminated? It is supposed to. You need a RED light, GREEN light and a WHITE light illuminated at night when you operate your boat. The ANCHOR light is illuminated by itself when you are at anchor at night. 👍

Can you skip the ACR and run power from your main switch straight to the fuse panel? Or is the ACR needed?

Good job, wanna come finish mine now? 😂 Real question though: I have a deep cycle battery, and a cranking battery that will only be used for the outboard motor of my sailboat. They are independently charged by a sport HD charging bank. We aren't going on huge trips, just a few hours at a time. Do you think there is a good reason for us to use the 1/2/both switch? We had been planning on not ever using the deep cycle to start the engine, or the cranking to run anything but the engine. We were thinking the only thing that would physically cost the two would be the deep cycle negative connecting to the cranking negative, so the deep cycle battery gets grounded to the engine.

so are you just bringing all of those extra negative bus bars to the main fuse panel ground?

This video hyped me up ima go drag my wife to help me do this also

Do I still need the negative bus bar or can I get away with just the fuse box

Good job except just for me no one else you didn’t say what gauge of wires you were using for each. One question if you have a fuse block with negative at the top of it what is the purpose of the positive and negative bus bar? I’m trying to understand that in general

You spent good money on blue sea fuse blocks and bus bars...why did you cheap out on the switches?

If my canoe flips and gets water inside will that cause a person to get electrocuted???

I am in desperate need of some guidance for my pontoon. I have 5 batteries total. I want to make sure they are all hooked up correctly. I have 4 things but possible 5th that’ll require power. I have one Pecko 2 way switch already installed - 1, 2, All and OFF. I also have 2 onboard battery chargers. 1 is 2 bank and 1 is a 3 Bank. I can send pics or specs if needed. 1. Motor/ignition 2. Trolling motor 80lb thrust 3. Garmin Depth Finder 4. 8 speaker w 2 12” subs stereo 5. Possible re-hook up bilge pump Main ? Is how to hook up all of these appropriately if you can give any advice I would be forever grateful!

My only question is I thought the Anchor light is installed at the stern. It makes more sense visibly where you put it but don't you have to have a white running light at the stern?

Good wiring job, bilge pump should not be wired to the switch panel like that. The switch is fine but it should be wired to be always on regardless of the battery switch position. Has to bypass the battery switch. The reason is the bilge pump is a safety item and it like VHF should be wireddirectly to the battery so that they still work in the event of an emergency and someone accidentally turns off the battery switch.

Buen trabajo amigo pero mi ingles no es bueno . Si hubieran sido en español me huviera ahorado mucho dinero Saludos

VERY PROFESSIONAL LOOKING