Love the dyno guy, get a nice vibe from him that he actually cares about other peoples cars.

So much shit that can cause this man, bearing clearances can be a major factor, I don’t believe it would be anything to do with loss of oil pressure. Rip it apart, forge the bottom end, do it once, do it right, hopefully it hasn’t fucked the crank.

Absolutely gutted for you mate, been keen for an update on the Skyline but didn't expect nor want this to be it. Fingers crossed for the future of the old dog

Youre tuner is most likley right.... Your bearings wont be damadged by just 4-5sec without oil. I think it sat for too long in a wett enviornment :// But its an easy fix in my opinion. You got it mate🙌

Oil likes to get stuck in the head of rbs under continuous stress and thats when you spin a bearing

Teaches you two things I learnt many years ago. 1.. if you want something done right do it yourself. 2... The only corner you cut on an engine build will come back to haunt you. Note- It's a 25 year old engine. It never had a rebuild. You cut too many corners. Start with the a full engine replaced and rebuilt is usually a good starting point. RBs oil pump are fickle things. Use a nitto or tomie pump next time. Often too much ignition timing can cause shock and flog the bearing out. He was adding ignition timing when it all turned to shit. Bloke hit me up it's not the end of the world just learning curve. I've had it happen too. I can point you in the right direction. Throw the whole bottom end in the bin and get your head redone and use an rb30 bottom end. And a nitto pump. Make U 600hp and be happy.. The only way to see what went wrong is pull the engine down. Check for detonation..check bearings and crank bores oil pump. It will tell a story. U can guess all day but until it's apart you don't really know what it is

Oh how the tables have turned. Gonna be so much more rewarding when it's fully forged and rippin shit up

Sucks having a problem like that, I’ve had a lot of RBs myself I’ve got two GTRs I own and an s14 with a rb25 what could’ve happen is oil build up very common on the RB25det. Depending on the thickness of the engine oil being used and how long it has been sitting sounds like the most logical thing to look into because if it’s been on that oil for a good while without running after the motor was just sitting for 2 years, another important thing to remember is 400-500hp on stock bottom end is the limit on a laggier turbo where you’ll see full boost around 5k. From personal experience I bought a r33 GTST series 2 i wanted to push the stock bottom end and the car was sitting without ever being started for a little over a year and had penrite 10-50w threw a Garrett 3067r in it all the fuel stuff to run e85 Harlech 1500 etc etc. Done 4 runs had the car up to about 16psi and it made 344rwhp on 3rd run I said screw it let’s push for 19psi got the car on forth gear and after the pull was over on idle all we could hear was the bearing shit itself. Better off get the bottom end done and do head studs and retainers and car won’t have any issues running a responsive 500-600hp of course gearbox around 500 will need some work as thats the max you want to push on the 5 speed. I’m from Sydney and work with Croydon racing developments all the time I know a few really good RB builders down in VIC

100% oil pump failure. Even the OEM pumps are weak. I think the oil needs to loop threw the oil cooler so it can feed back across the head 😢😢

I love the format of the video, feels like a documentary. Saw this video in my recommended, now I got to watch them all

I think that RB was on the way out. The loss of oil pressure on first stat after sitting for awhile then leaning on the old girl was just to much. RB's are tough just not immortal.

As someone who is about to build his rb25, always tear it down and inspect it before install, it might suck to get it out back together or the cost of the labour, but its worth it

Loving these videos man. Keep it up and stay motivated through the hard parts.

Love the optimism! remember setbacks are just a way to prepare you for a bigger comeback! Good luck and can't wait!

Rebuild with FORGED internals!!!! GO for 600!!! Love you content!

After watching this and reading a decent amount of comments that I also agree about I suggest you start doing the engine yourself! I'm a Technician myself and I know you have the want for fast cars so Get It! Can not wait for the next upload.

If you end up reusing that block and head make sure it's thourly cleaned if it's spun a bearing and all oil passages are cleaned. I'd also recommend upgrading the oil pump and installing a head drain kit at some stage too so sad to see this happen to your car but hopefully you get alot of awesome feed back and some reputable people jump in to point you in the right direction. Good luck anyway and can't wait to see what your decision ends up being with this car

Always rebuild an engine when it's out. I had my blacktop 20v spun bearing twice due to a bad oil pump. The pump might not be cracked but the clearance is not right.

Rbs are known for starving the bottom end of them, my recommendation is to upgrade the oil pump a tad more after upgrading internals, more than needed but not to big so you don’t starve the bottom end but so you also don’t drown the engine.

2:57 that pokemon yellow version brought back the memories 💛

The first seconds of engine start are the worse to the engine, cold oil, thinner, all parts of the engine are cold, since the oil is thinner is does require more pressure to maintain the oil film between the bearing and the crankshaft. The most stress is during when the engine is started. So yes, i guess the bearing suffered the damage when the engine was started without having oil pressure needed. But as you said, it's a huge learning oportunity!

Just found your channel yesterday, wicked videos mate

Just found your channel through this video. Super unlucky man, I had issues with my built SR after paying someone to sort out the machine work for me and like you said the only way is to push through it and find out why it happened and then fix the issue and resulting damage. Sucks to see it happen but I’m keep to see you get it sorted! Just subbed for updates 🤙

Glad to have this channel!

drain the oil would be a start and if there is brass in the oil that means that there is a spun bearing for sure. I could be wrong but from what I was told that would be a good starting point

Thank you man for sharing this stuff

so glad you started up this channel

Your content is underrated bro, keep it up you’ll get the subs u deserve oneday💪🏼

To me oil pressure issues don’t usually cause damage within a couple seconds unless it was down on the drive there but as the tuner said it’s still got oil pressure when he looked. Corrosion can occur obviously but If the engine is properly sealed you shouldn’t have any corrosion. I myself have started an engine sitting for 6 yrs sealed properly with no hassles and drove it for a good while and no issues. My bet would be bearing clearances are out by a bit and finally let go after the dyno runs. All and all hope it’s nothing major. My opinion would be do the research, build it yourself and build it properly. I had a cruiser that was built but built wrong so I re done it and could have been happier with it now. Good luck and I hope to see more of this content (hopefully with it making bulk power)

just genuine wear and tear with sounds of it

This is the gamble with used motors. RB's can take a serious beating and show good compression, but their pumps don't like smashing limiter. Their pump drive acts like a hammer effect of an impact driver, hence the upgrade is a splined collar like Toyota. Maybe try find a cheap RB30 block if they're not worth a million dollars.

Depends how the oil flows within the engine. If the cooler is before the bearings, yes it’s from the oil leak as the bearings did not receive any oil during the start up.

Oh man, my RB got piston slap, and I ran it hard for 4 years before sending it in for a full build. You’ll be happy with that HKS stroker kit :-)

Wish you luck bro. We can learn from mistakes from the present and past to avoid them form happening in the future. Something tells me you'll make a more 🔥 skyline in the future bro.

I have an ae86 and I just recently had my engine fail. Now I've got h beam rods and higher compression pistons and in a few weeks it all goes back together. Don't feel defeated. I've been building my car 6 years and it's finally starting to come together. Keep having fun with your shit boxes.

The car was designed to run 250-280HP. Go above that, you risk damage. I hear the rear head drain or oil pump upgrades can help.

once again amazing video

Best thing you should of done and what you probably now know is when you got that other engine, you should of took it apart and gave it a full health check and more or so built it before sticking it in the car. That way you wouldn't of had to pay an additional 2x the price of removal and installation costs. Do it once, cry once. Hope everything works out bro as i know the feeling all to well when shit breaks from my younger know it all days and now that I'm older and wiser i no longer do things half baked and spend the money to get it done right the first time ✌️.

love a skyline

Just stumbled across this channel and I Love it brother

This guy is like a breath of fresh air for car content

Your motors knocking hard tonight

dont let this channel die these vids are good as.

head drain fresh bearings rings and agood oil pump with some good machine shop shell be golden

It is entirely possible that those revs you guys where filming earlier in the day after sitting for so long caused the bearings to start to spin, (corrosion) then it fully spun one on the dyno after making too many passes too quickly. (RB Oil flow issues) Best advice is to not rev or give an engine that has sat for a while the beans for a few hundred Km treat it like a new engine that's breaking in cause that's pretty much what you're doing breaking it in again. (or rubbing off the corrosion if you will)

I (not a trained mechanic but with a bit of knowledge about straight 6's) would say it's a mixture of the oil pump and being left for that time. I know of some inline 6's that have powdered metal oil pump gears known to crack and cause problems after time and hard use. usually there relatively easy to replace if it is the case.

It could be many things man, from my experience its more likely its the engines past life. Don't give up but! it always seems like the end but its just a hiccup. Do some research for who's a good engine builder down your way and hit them up do the engine right the first time and then it'll last for as long as you need these engines don't need much to be bullet proof

Ive got a stock rb30, i changed the oil and the rubber seal stayed on the block when i put the new filter on, started it and ran it for atleast 10-20 seconds before realising oil was pissing out,exactly like yours with close to no oil pressure. at the time the motor had roughly 380-390 thousand ks, i higly doubt the 3 or 4 seconds yours ran for is the issue mines still going strong

Yeah bro there are so many damn things that it 'could' be, but the questions you're asking point you in the right direction. Loss of oil pressure wouldn't usually cause this - as old mate was saying, a possible contaminate has entered the bearing and this could have been due to those 3 seconds that it was open for, floating around till after the initial tune and decided to land in the bearing after it, hell could've happened on your drive there.... Because so many things are at play, going through 1 by 1 to eliminate possibilities is the only way to find the issue.

8:47 got me creasing hahahahaha!

That Chris is an absolute legend mate

Whatever you do. DO NOT START IT BACK UP.. You'll smoke your crank and then be even farther in the hole

Not sure about 3 seconds but I had a oil pressure relief valve break on my RB26 (bolt fell in the sump , essentially byassing the oil pump so zero oil press.) and 1 minute idling was enough to to mangle bearings and also cook my crank; Also that was on a brand new engine , new bearings etc...

Great edit.

I have an unopened S2 25DET in my 32 making 550whp its a dedicated drift car so I flog the life out of it and change the oil every 3 track days with no issues, likely the motor was opened or you had an oiling issue during the pulls / driving.. set of rods, bearing and pitsons will do you right and make a healy 500-600whp all day every day.

Rb are a pain for oil pressure! I had to spend so much on my rb20 to make oiling work well, N1 pump, billet gears, head drain, oil feed restrictors, and then was getting around the 80-90psi

This vid has me hooked KNT , KEEN , HIT THAT BUTTON CNTS

love these videos

Did you prime the oil pump and filter by cranking the engine before actually starting it? If there wasn’t any oil on inside of the bearings running through the big end holes those few seconds of pressure from combustion could have caused slight metal on metal and that would explain why it didn’t just immediately start knocking there, corrosion from lack of use on the bearings is a tricky one because iv seen people start and use engines for years that have been out in a barn for decades, was the engine full of oil when you first got it? Might just be a mix of all factors, head up though my old land cruiser spun a bearing mid road trip around aus and i got stuck in a small town for 3 months so theres always worse

Sorry for your loss brother 😅 33’s are fun aren’t they

Hey Benny Surge your vid’s are amazing man I love ‘em, I’m just wondering what camera do you use to record your videos.

It's a 30yo stock rb, it could be a range of factors. Either way it's cooked but on the bright side now you can build it up knowing exactly what's done to it and have peace of mind.

This is why i left RB's kept running bearings an just didn't have the funds at the time to do it right. But can make em as reliable as the old Jz's just takes tackling the oil flaws. Bore out the oil tappets to the overall max size of 1mm im pretty sure but double check, oil pan resister an a proper Nitto oil pump. Don't believe the N1 pump hype, pop that just as much. and lastly an head oil drain. These things all will help form a somewhat reliable RB. People close to me that have done this haven't popped open there RB's in years an drive it hard. Problem with them is no matter how you build them without sorting their oil issues you're just gotta spit all your oil in ya head an run bottom end dry no matter the power, They hate high rpm only for the fact oil flows into head faster than it drains back into pan. Keen to see the future! Hope abit of useful info in this for ya

Bob Ross said it beautifully “gotta have the dark in order to have the light” if you choose to rebuild it, it’s just gunna make driving it even more fun.

A spun bearing is usually loss of oil pressure but could also be low oil, over loading the motor even excessive heat... As to why its losing pressure could be the wrong oil, oil pump is damaged or worn out even a clogged oil filter... The first start up wouldn't have really coursed it to spin the bearing unless the motor was already on its last legs after all you noticed it in a few seconds and shut it down... My guess the engine wasn't in the best condition when you bought it...

Potentially all things you listed may have contributed however the oil that was spilt was very dark for a fresh engine install. Did they have the sump off before installation to check the bottom end?

Oh man that sucks my first ever build I did a single turbo conversion on my 98 legacy while it was my daily and studying I got it too run and I thought I'd cracked it. 1 week later I spun the bearing. Learnt early on second hand engines are no Bueno unless its some old hilux diesel motor or in my case td27 best second hand boi I ever bought. Anyway paid someone to build a forged engine. First drive drove to the servo with smoke pouring out the bonnet gas station clerk rushes over thinking I'm on fire. I say to him " nah mate fresh build heat wraps just bedding in" look under the car an enormous oil puddle is forming, I didn't do the turbo oil feed up properly. That engine even with its incorrect ring gaps that made it consume more oil than a tired 2 stroke chainsaw took me too and from multiple track days and hill/touge sessions. On paper the old leggy is a massive heap but it's my first car 10+ cars later its still in my driveway but I love it and it's taught me so much. I'm just so glad I pushed through the failures now I have 2 more projects and flipper projects on the go. This cars 6 speed swapped dccd too for the subaru nerds and getting a big old g30-660 turbo and the most hectic engine I've ever built can't wait cars are something else I'd be lost without em.

Pressure test will never show a spun bearing... But you can check to oil for metal powder, especially in the oil filter. That is when you already have the 'knock'. Its not showing much before that.

Just found your channel and reckon you have plenty of space at your place. Pull the motor and pull it apart yourself. Check everything and learn the skills to do the job yourself, because that way it gets done right. Anything you need done like machining, send that out to be done. I rebuilt my Ford Cleveland with a Gregory's manual and a couple of local mechanic shops for boring, chemical cleaning...I had no experience... Engine still runs after 35 years.

probably a combination of little or no oil pressure+ the engione sitting around not running for a few years and not being properly serviced before starting there is a fair bit of prep work to get an engine running right after years of not running.

Spun bearing can happen from improper bearing clearance and contamination. Keep the video going nearly cried when I heard that noise.

ild start by checking the oil pump if its cracked, it is shit, but lucky that happend on the dyno with his headphones hooked up tbh, if it hapened later at higher rpm and went un noticed it could have thrown a rod out the block. keep on it!

can't wait for the updates i so hope it's just a fact you can do some upgrades, and you don't have to buy another engine i'd definetily go forged, i think you can tune it even further with forged pistons and everything too i'm not fully sure i've got a mk 4 golf gti that i'd really love to upgrade and fix up it's got some issues and i'd love to be able to do it, and learn how to drive get my licence and take it out for a spin.

hey man, i got my r32 after dreaming about it for years. 26. drove it across the US. i was like elivs. my dad had no idea what the car was and was amazed by it. the next day i took the turbo restrictor off and took some friends out. sure enough, my first day with my dream car i got rodknock. engines are expensive. it sucks

That’s a real shame buddy, sounds like a big ends gone unfortunately. Always when I’ve fitted an engine I crank it with the coils off until it’s built oil pressure and the oil light goes off. If you think about it that engines been sat for 2 years so all the oils gone from around those crank bearings, starting it wouldn’t of helped at all with no oil pressure. Also if you have got an external oil cooler you have to remember the oil has to go from the oil pump down the pipe to the oil cooler and fill that up (if it’s a big cooler it takes a bit), then back up the cooler pipe to the engine and then get pumped all round the engine. So hopefully they cranked it for a while to build that pressure up once they fitted the oil cooler before starting it cause your not talking 3 seconds of no oil your more talking 15-20 seconds of running till the oil gets round everywhere. On another note you’ll need to really clean out the turbo oil feed pipe and turbo bearings to make sure there’s no crank bearing debris in there, be the icing on the cake if that goes next. Good luck buddy, hope to see it back together and running well 👍

Most common shit on rbs, oil starvation on starvation, need to check the pressure all the time, id say tuner also needed to see if there was problem, it got pushed too much for tune and just effid it up. Also if you didnt install oil head drain kit, it helped on my bros rb26 what pushing 700+hp. But keep it up, dont give up :)

mate , i had a rod cap come loose on my rb25 at tide just before going on dyno , caught it early no damage to crank got new bearing and was sweet made 290 to rear hubs a@14psi ( in my gu patrol) this was all done with motor still in the car , just able to take sump off and dirrectly access

if i can give you any advice, no matter how much you trust the original dudes they still forgot the pluming, go to a different shop and get it done right

Man i swear ive seen videos on this car, it must have been your main channel. I remember seeing you blow all the oil onto the ground! bout to binge the fuck out of this channel to catch up haha

Do an oem engine refresh yourself. I did one on my sr20 during covid, first time ever. Cost 800 in machine work. Just folow the manual, pretty easy. Good content for you channel too

6:58 sounded like rod knock for a sec

great vid

Id start here, no matter what you need new bearings so get those on deck, id also pick up a oil pump and pressure test all the gallerys for oil aka the passages to see if its leaking somewhere, do a headgasket test to see if any combustion is getting into the coolant, thats the path id take// i think its badluck and just a dodggy engine that sat for quite some time but id attack it that dirrection

Did you run the car on E85 before it sat for some time? Because ethanol absorbs water after some time I was told

More power baby

No point asking questions, no point in blaming anyone. Should have stripped and inspected the engine before installing - live and learn... good luck with the rebuild!

Build it up with sexy tuning parts mate , buy an engine jig , strip it and take engine parts to the machine / tuning shop . Yeah $8000 hurts . But when you know it's done right , it's done right and run your 550hp as a daily dream .

As a journeymen mechanic in Canada my thoughts are mix of dodgy engine, but also very likely that it sat in my opinion. You never know an engines previous life, and if you know it did sit, then why did it sit. That right their in my opinion says a lot. Best of luck Benny, You in my opinion are best to pull the engine fix it and have an amazing car that not many others have.

Iv been/going thru this with my heavily modified hilux surf. You fix one thing to break another and sometimes it all ends in catastrophe.. Well spoken man ! Dont give up on the dream ! you'll get there.

Just be prepared to be building these engines regularly! A friend of mine has owned a few gtst and a GTr and they all needed to have engine rebuilds done and multiple times! Nissan make very soft motors! Most people can't afford to put 30k into an Engine to make it be reliable on these skylines, Just be prepared as it will definitely give up again at some stage!

Oh looks like I'm not the only one trying to fix up JDM cars in a greenhouse... Hope you'll be able to fix the engine

The rb26 never disappoints with how unreliable it is

Honestly the color of the oil that shot of the hose should have been your first warning. Remember oil is cheap engines are expensive

I felt your pain my dude.

from my experience it was a bearing clearances issues from the start and all it took was 1 pull for it to let loose

When this happens nothing can prevent it when it happens, possibly it had a bad previous owner who didn't change oil in time, sitting for a while could have done this if it sit with water inside like an engine with a blown gasket for example, running for 3 seconds dry couldn't possibly have done this because when you start the car it always runs dry for a second or 2, meaning it would have to run at least 30 seconds until things start to seize... Overall I would just replace bearings get everything measured and checked, because yeah modifying a car beyond 400hp you would then need to upgrade other things like brakes for example, great content btw!

i am a mobile plant mechanic which is a much higher qualification than most of the dealership mechanics I am seeing in the comments my 2 cents is, 3 seconds of low oil pressure is not enough time for a spun bearing ( I have seen 16 litre engines run with no oil pressure for around 10-12 seconds and not spin a bearing), corrosion should not happen inside an engine with enough oil in it as the bearings should remain coated in oil stopping corrosion even if not started, I would say the most likely fault would be a dodgy engine which was tipped over the edge by increased power without actually doing a proper inspection of the internal condition, i have a 632 BHP rb25 so i can speak from a place of experience when modifying these engines

Motive reckons the best upgrade to RB engines is the Nismo Oil pump, Might be worth checking out what they suggest.

I personally would recommend getting an N1 oil pump and billet gears from Platinum racing products. That's one of many things I'm doing to my RB25DE.

this things happen with builds rb blocks are super sensitive, i cracked my rb26 block after passing 1200hp so i took it to the next level and ordered a billet block to clear my mind, just take your time to build it right