I love the tips! Keep ‘em coming and we’ll use them on Flip Bike!

FYI: a really good middle ground between "automotive paint in a can" and "cheap hardware store rustoleum paint" is DupliColor Engine Enamel. It's good to higher temperatures than standard paint so you can paint things like the valve cover of your car or whatever if you want, but it lays out really nice, is super easy to get that last wet gloss layer, and the can has that nicer nozzle on it. Additionally, it hardens up nicely and is durable for years as long as you prep the surface. It's also like $6/can rather than the $12/can for the automotive color matched stuff.

What I like most about this channel is he isn't afraid to show his screw-ups.

When Seth was speaking his own language about the paint expert. Could not stop laughing!

As an automotive painter with nearly 20 years of experience, what you covered in this video is basically all the same things I would’ve gone over. With a few other deatails. Such as: to help prevent the spattering out of the rattle bomb can, tip can upside down and spray for a second at the end of use to clean out the nozzle. Great job!

A good tip is to use soft earplugs in holes you don't want the spray to get into :)

Comment about safety: if spaying paint with solvent or hardener, you'll want a respirator with organic vapor cartridges. The particulate mask you were wearing is primarily for dust while sanding.

A tip I got that seems to get the spray on nicer, especially on bigger projects like the frame, is to heat the can up in some warm water before spraying. The can usually says max temp is 125F, so no warmer than that. Also, the next coat as the part is just tacky gives a chemical bond, which is much more durable. Thanks for the great content!

Pro painter here (RSI painting NJ) this is all great stuff! Really not much to add other than when doing something large like a full frame it’s often suggested to alllow for 24 hour cute times between coats. In fact, the paint companies will never admit this but really good curing takes a few days to weeks. I wonder how that duplicolor stuff works with the added hardener. I’ll have to try that soon! Great work

After recently raw-ing my bike frame I can say I have the utmost respect for those who have the patience to regularly sand and deal with paint

From throwing bikes in the ocean to using a paint booth in a bike castle. What a wild ride!

A great DIY for many things is Nail Polish. It comes in just about every color under the sun. Great fir touching up dings/chips and it is also a great thread locker. Much less expensive than Loctite!

FYI. In certain situations with items difficult to access for masking areas that you don't want to paint you can use a layer of grease which will be easily removed after the paint is fully cured. Great video as always.

using a q-tip with a little vaseline can prevent paint from sticking to hard to reach places you can't tape off, rubbing alcohol on another q-tip will remove it when paint is dry....love this channel and thank you for inspiring so many

Pro tip If you get a drip/run in the paint you can use a piece of masking tape and dab the drip off . Then just add a second coat of paint. Hope this helps somebody out there ! Keep riding !

I guess now we get to see what the sand blaster and pain tent is for

I actually Painted my bike, myself. It turned out so good people actually wanted to buy that for more than the actual price (i painted it in a very capable bikes design) people actually thought it was the better bike!!!

I can’t even stress how much this is a tutorial

me being a painter prepper at a body shop still watching 10 min of seth teaching me how to paint

One tip to save frustration: I did find that spray paints, including automotive rattle can paints, can take weeks to fully harden. It probably varies with the humidity and temperature of your location. If you put newly painted parts on your bike soon after the paint has dried and find that the paint chips too easily, try leaving them for a month and you will hopefully find the finish to be good and tough. This worked for me with Halfords automotive spray cans.

I love these kind of videos from Seth, I love how he leaves in his mistakes and shows you how to fix any common mistakes, great work Seth!

You make my day I getting a full suspension bike next year I’ve been asking my dad since last year but I’m finally getting it next year my dads the best 💯😄

Great tip I found once is to using spongey ear plugs to squish into threads - an absolute game changer!

I have been painting with spray cans for years and mainly on bikes and bike parts, and let me just say amazing tutorial, absolutely perfect for beginners and those mistakes are ones everyone’s made or will make somewhere along the line. As far as what paint I use I like rustolium, relatively cheap and tons of colors, also engine enamel is great because it drys fast and it’s super durable. Just a quick tip, when you first start painting your part start with a super light coat just to get the original paint to accept the paint, I have seen it happen when someone will do a super heavy coat and it will orange peel like crazy or blotch and run.

so happy your uploading regularly

a simple gray scuff pad from 3m will be easier to sand with and easier to get in tough spots.

I don't want to paint parts of my bike, yet, I watched the whole video. You are awesome, Seth. Tip: never paint close to vehicles because the paint can stick into them. You won't be able to see it, but you will feel.

i paint cars by trade, and what youve done here is totally great. i do the same stuff when i paint small parts at home. its not like painting an audi here... nicely done video and nice pro tip on waiting for the color coats to dry, solvent pop will indeed happen if you clear to soon

Great info Seth! I have painted a few vehicles and know the basics, you’ve covered them all and well for what you are painting. Thank you!

i love how you explain every detail, even things that might seem like common sense to most people without being demeaning

Congratulations on 800k!!!

Thanks these tips are pretty useful and I can probably use these to get better results.

Good one Seth. Thank you. Happy trails.

Absolutely love your videos Seth

CONGRATS ON 800K Seth! Amazing work!

I use these methods to paint all sorts of stuff. Mainly PC Cases and metal parts to things as well. I usually use a coat or two of self etching primer on things I want to look amazing after the sanding/cleaning step. Yes most paints have primer in them but the self etching seems to work great for satins I have tried. (Mainly Rustoleum 2 in 1/ and Krylon Fusion) I always hit the paint can from 8 to 12 inch distance with the low heat setting on the heat gun moving around the can. Once the can feels warm shake the can until the paint is mixed up and it feels cold again. I do this for a good 30 or so seconds and it really makes the paint flow smooth. Just be carefull not to heat it crazy hot or in one spot for longer than a few seconds. Works much better than the hot water trick. Just have to be smart not to heat it crazy hot as its under pressure and can easily explode if you go crazy with the heat. Just slightly warming it to get a good flow. I also heat up the item before spraying with the heat gun and after with the heat gun to help cure and off-gas. I want to spray a cheap frame I have for my main bike badly with tougher paint so I might try the duplicolor engine enamel someone was saying below. I want like a matte or satin black on it so bad. Can't afford a good frame atm and stuck with an old iron horse one but changed out about every other part through the years to have it be an insane bike now.

Videos never get old!

Thank you! This was a big help. I’m one of the ones who’s been asking for this video.

Finally! a realistic and informative spray painting tutorial!

cool idea. I love when you do videos like this.

I love this channel because you are such a normal guy doing such funny and awesome stuff!

Also for aluminium if your sanding back to base metal, you want to apply etching primer that chemically etches into the aluminium and gives you a nice base coat to work from easily available from where you got your paint. What you done and there is nothing wrong with it is you abraded the etched and painted surface that gives a mechanical area for the paint to take hold. That is ok for steel, but after a while on aluminium it will flake off.

Love your content Seth! Keep it up !

I’ve been following Seth’s paint method and can say this method works! I also like to use testers paint to touch up small dings.

I loved this video!!!! thank you Seth for taking the time to help out the noobs to mountain biking :)

Great video and tips Seth!

I love Berm Peak. I dont watch a ton but when i do it makes me wanna go do stuff

Thank you! Very useful advice!

Congratulations on 800k😍🥰

very nice bro. i love the way you talk. loud and clear

Love this!!! Would love more videos like this! Thanks Seth :)

I paint bike details just like you do. I have learned this just with practice. The parts look so much better! Last time i spray painted the center of a disk rotor and came out great😅

Im such a big fan you are the reson i have a track in my back yard i love you

Congrats on 800k Seth!

I missed your videos you great job making videos keep it up

Love your videos

Seth I remember when you would test new products and stuff. Bring that back!

Great vid this guy changes the way mtb is

Cant really fauly anything that Seth has said here, this is very good video for people who are trying to start out. However coming from the automotive paint industry i do have some tips. Using a red/maroon scotch brite in place of the 400grit sandpaper is a really good alternative if the part does not have chipping paint, it takes the shine off while keeping most of the old paint still there, and its abit fluffier than sandpaper so it makes it easier to get into hard to reach places, I would use wax & grease remover over rubbing alcohol especially if you see yourself painting often. Tac cloth before first coat only, if you do it between coats you risk damaging the finish. when painting raise the part off where your painting abit and put water down, this will help catch dust flying around as instead of getting airborne off the floor and sticking to whatever your painting. And lastly if you drop whatever your painting often and ruin the finish instead of waiting for it to dry and sanding it back to start again you can use paint thinners (nail polish remover might work but never tried it) to instantly wipe off the new paint and re-prep your item and try again.

I have a suggestion: You could paint those plastic valve caps to get custom painted valve caps if you can’t find the right color.

Seth really always finds a way to make something as simple as painting bike parts hilarious.

It’s always a good day when Seth makes a video

800 000 subs 🤩🙏 That's awesome 💪

Nice content, I actually repainted one of my mtb frames with spray cans when I was quarantined, it wasn't perfect but it was such a great experience, keep up the great vids🤟

so useful, and the last one "tell me how to do it cheaper" was actually brilliant.

Seth, you trully is the right person to teach home painting of bike parts 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 because everything that you showed on this video is exactly what we do & the stuff that goes wrong !!! (Specially using a ultra high tech "Paint Booth" 🙈 - mine is a little bit bigger to avoid spraying alover the backyard 😅😅😅)

this is going to be great for the environment

Thank for the tips I will use them and keep doing flip bikes

Good stuff . . immediately useful. Cheers.

Perfect, I'm planning to repaint my bike with spray paint tommorow.

"The best place you could live is the desert." I look outside: arid wasteland for 120 miles. "PERFECT!"

Good simple videos like always 👍

During the summer of the first lockdown me and my friend (he’s my neighbour) we both painted our Bmxs and re vamped them to look ace. Both of us sanding down our frames and then taking full advantage of the sun to get a great finish on our final coats of clear and in the end they looked great and kept us both busy for a week

Hello from Finland!

Love this videos

Quick tip, if you actually want the paint to last and prevent it from chipping I recommend using a primer before the top coat. Once that's fully hardened spray your top coat and it will come out much smoother and will adhere better to the part. After that top it with a coat of clear and it'll look mint.

the video that i needed

Live the videos seth cant wait to see some more trail action

instead of rusty bolts, if the hole is small enough i use foam ear plugs. Makes for a more compact and versatile package.

its a good day when seth uploads

Great stuff.

I love it when you do something different but kinda the same

Softopper on the ridge line looks gooooood

great advice

awesome vid once again.....

I wanna see more of this paint restoration episodes,especially restoring some old rusty bike frames and parts.😁👍❤️🚲

Nice ! One thing I could propose is to use a 2 parts clear after... like this one ! USC SprayMax 2K...this would last forever and resist bike cleaning very good.

Red or gray scotch-brite. So much better for small stuff like that.

Yo love these vids

Great video

Great vid buddy 👍🚴

Really cool ERM EAK shirt!

One of Seth's greatest talents is to call out and shame the trolls before they even speak!

When I personally paint parts I spray multiple thin layers, and I let each layer dry and cure completely before I apply the next coat. Same thing goes for the clear coat. Great job on painting those parts Seth!

Great tutorial! That’s coming from a 30yr. Automotive painter. Thank you for the videos

Would love to get back into biking use to ride BMX never mountain bike but it looks so fun

Great job man, I always spraying bars And stems

silicon ear plugs work great to put into threads or places you don't want plant

for the flat parts like the ahead cap and the cassette end ring, i always lay the sandpaper flat on the table and slide the part to be painted back and forth

Inspired to do this on my bike