Glad I could help! Bigger rotors were one of the best upgrades I’ve done on my bike. I’m sure you’ll appreciate the difference it makes! Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching! 🤙

For sure!🤘I run organics but I have been meaning to try out some sintered jawns! I think a well done bleed is the most important part! Thanks for watching!

​​​@@NickandKatieMTB seriously? That's probably the most improvement you'll see, metallic aren't all born equal but still finer than organic 🎉😎

@@LaurentiusTriarius I’ll have to give metallic pads a try!

That's great to hear! Glad you got something out of the video! Thank you so much for watching! 🤙

Thank you! I can definitely see how that could happen, luckily mine have been pretty straight! I just have heard not to touch them from some great mechanics so for me I just like to treat them as delicately as possible, even if it’s a bit overkill! 😄 Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching! 🤙

Sounds like a legit setup man! Heard a lot of great things about the Galfer stuff! I’ll have to try some of their products someday! Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching! 🤙

Thank you! I’d say go for it! I didn’t get to discuss this in the video but from my research I learned most people use their back brake more (makes sense) even though so many bikes come with a larger one in the front. 🤷‍♂️ Seems like it might be a dying trend though! I think same size front and back makes the most sense! Thanks for the comment and thank you for watching! 😁🤙

I'll have to try em out after I run through these ones! Thanks for the suggestion! 🤙

Nice! Hear a lot of people love the Galfer stuff!

Totally! There’s no need to upgrade if smaller rotors are working well for you. I personally feel like the 180s in the rear were okay 95% of the time. I only experienced fade after long downhill riding. Especially if I was following someone and I needed to use the brakes more than I naturally would. The front needed a bigger rotor because I wasn’t getting a strong bite from them with the G2s. Upgrading the brakes probably would have been optimal, but bigger rotors were cheaper. Some people run 246mm dinner plates and rave about them. I don’t need to go that big, but every size has their use case. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching! 🤙

Glad I could help! It depends on the bike and rider size. If it’s an aggressive bike like a enduro or dh bike and/or if the rider is on the larger size, then bigger rotors might be a great fit!

Thank you! Glad you appreciate me showing that. I feel like it’s important to get the whole story! I’m sure a lot of people take it to the shop and that’s fine. I’m too cheap too haha and I always find (even though I’m not the best mechanic) with enough research I can get it right just about every time! Plus, less time waiting on the shop and more time riding! 🤙 Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching!

@NickandKatieMTB I actually used your vid to install a 203 on my 2002 Santa Cruz Superlight with a Psylo sl shock with an original 165mm rotor on it. I just needed one washer to make the adapter it came with fit! I decided to get the bike out after 16 years of storage and found that since I moved from Ontario to B.C. the front brake just wasn't doing it anymore. Yeah, I'm that old, lol. Subscribed and thumbs up! Cheers!

@@Synonomous haha sick! Glad to hear you put the info to good use. Thanks for subbing and liking the video! 🤙 It means a lot to us. Cheers!

Glad I could help! I was a bit confused when I started this project so I tried to include everything that I had questions about! I’d say go for it, definitely one of my favorite upgrades I’ve done and it only cost about $130 dollars! Thanks for watching Johnnie! 🤙

Nice! Thanks for the additional info! Thanks for watching! 🤙

@@tonysadler5290 thanks for the additional info and thanks for watching Tony! 🤘

Nice man!

Hi I have the same what size bracket did you use

@@eirichen I think it would be an improvement if you need like 20% more power. You could always upgrade to 203 rotors and if it doesn’t help enough then upgrade to the 4 piston brakes. Hope this helps!

He did use sram 200mm rotors what r u waffling about lol

HS2s are also available in 220mm. He actually went from 180 to 203 (so @machine7767 was right). That 3mm is finicky as you may have to put spacers in there or get specific adapters.

Yup that makes sense that your ebike would come with the mount set up for 203. And yes, you won't be able to run anything smaller than that. I imagine 203 on an EMTB is the lowest you'd want to go! Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching! 🤙

Glad you found it helpful! If it’s going from 180 to 203 it’s definitely a 23mm adapter. The adapter I used shooould work in theory but with different brands there may be factors that could effect the compatibility. I’d recommend checking with whoever you’re buying it from to double check. Hope this helps! Best of luck and thanks for watching! 🤙

@@oplkfdhgk haha I feel you on that. I love a nice skid as much as the next guy but felt like I needed more stopping power in the front more than anything! Thanks for the comment! 🤘

I have tossed the idea around, and even purchased some but ended up returning them for organic pads before using them! 😅 I do need to try them out for myself someday. Could be a great video idea too!

Yup, you’re right! I try to keep my fingers off of them when I can, but the rotors can always just be cleaned up with alcohol or brake cleaner and still function 100%! Thanks for watching! 🤙

@@NickandKatieMTB Naphtha cleans both rotors and pads... just don't breathe that stuff or get it on your skin. So i'd do the cleaning outside. Hand prints are ok. There's not enough oil (sebum) on your hands to make a difference, so you can touch the rotors just fine. To clean the bits, use a paper towel for the disks, wrap it several times and dip it in Naphtha, and for the pads, use a jar to swash them in there. FYI, it also makes a great chain cleaner as well, also in a jar. Drop the chain in, swish it a few times, and you'll see the chain come out mint (with a slight white-ish residue, but that's not going to make any difference at all on anything).

@@aserta interesting! Thanks for sharing that!

Hi! If you have post mounts (if you’re not sure check 2:27 in the video) you will need a 20mm adapter. Also make sure your frame will fit 220mm rotors. If you buy from an online source like Jenson USA, World Wide Cyclery or in person at a bike shop you can always double check with them to make sure the parts will work! In my case the Shimano adapters are working perfectly! Hope this helps and let me know if you have anymore questions! 👍 Thank you for the comment and thanks for watching! 😁

Go for 246mm, its worth it

@@ABCEDEFG911 I’m sure they’re great! My frame won’t fit anything over 203

@@NickandKatieMTB You can either have your hubs machined so that the rotors can go inwards and clear (make sure your hubs have plenty of meat, minimum 4mm if it's a detached style) OR you can look for spacers that push the wheel away on the brake side OR (extreme and only for metal frames, only if you really want them) you can tweak your frame a little (a little hammer strike never hurt nobody, just use a piece of rubber between the hammer and the frame) OR you can look for specific hubs that move the brake inwards, you'd have to look in person tho, there ain't that many on the market. All the above (except the Jeremy Clarkson special) require that you space the brake calipers inward. Most people use washers, don't. Figure out what the exact spacing you need (ghost mount the brake caliper on the disk and figure out the spacer thickness with a feeler gauge set) and then buy a piece of metal with that exact thickness, preferably in a bar stock form (shim stock, it's called - McMasterCarr) drill it, shape it and use that instead. Washers have the nasty tendency of shifting, and any time you space something, you will have shifting, especially when you start considering the extreme forces you're putting on those bolts, at that distance lever arm. And speaking of bolts, you need grade 8 bolts for this. Hex head, no expense spared. There are allen head bolts in grade 8, but finding them in the right length as a shoulder bolt is more difficult. If you really want allen heads, but can't find shoulder bolts, then you need to dull the threads with a hardened file in the area where the moving bits are. This will not affect the strength of the bolt as long as you don't touch the main part of the shaft. Putting the bolt in a drill is the easiest way to get the threads dulled, just don't go to far and move the file back and forth on the bolt, don't keep it static.

Thank you! They are the Burgtec Ride High Bars with a 38mm rise! I have a video on them too if you’re curious! 🤙 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/od9nhNVeysnQf4k.html

At Lake Williams! 🤙

You would need a 43mm adapter. Just make sure your frame can fit a 203mm before proceeding. Hope this helps! 🤙

Since bigger rotors increase braking power, they can also provide less modulation and be easier to lock up. This is true to an extent. But personally, I really don’t notice this. I could see an inexperienced rider grabbing a handful of brake and then skidding into oblivion. In my opinion, most riders will quickly get used to modulating their brakes with bigger rotors.

@NickandKatieMTB my understanding of MODULATION is how finely a rider can adjust braking power within a short duration. This is directly proportional to how responsive the brake is to a slight change in lever grip force from your fingers. Definitely, bigger rotors are much more responsive to slight changes in lever force. If you want, I could go into more details. It has nothing to do with full braking power.

It depends! Figuring out if your frame will fit a 203 is the first factor to check! I’d suggest looking into your frames max rotor size to make sure it won’t rub the frame!

You mean a bike with a 27.5 wheel size? Yes of course! And you would still need adapters to run bigger rotors.

The rotor does not get contaminated from riding. It can get dirty, but that is not the concern. Oil is the concern. I prefer to use gloves to keep the oils on my fingers from contaminating the disc.

I can’t advise that but if you say they work good, then more power to ya! 💪

@@NickandKatieMTB it's all the same shit different day it's all made of stainless steel hundred percent it's all been hard and it's all stamped the same way just one you're paying for the actual name brand Shimano

@@iamcyberpunk68 I get what your saying. I think I would be more sketched about the Amazon 2 piece rotors. If it’s just a solid piece of metal it’s probably safer.

😂😂😂

Always a good idea! 🧠