I will buy the Opus BT-C3100 V2.2 Pro's & Con's of the: Liitokala engineer Lii-500 + better screen ? + easier operation ? - Only discharges @ max 500 mAh.. - no internal resistance ( use a multimeter, so it's not a huge problem for me )

Thank you for your thorough explanation of your experience. I think I'll look for the xtar but it's 5 yrs later!

Yes it does those things but you have to press more buttons, times that a few thousand cells and you get a whole lot of waisted time pressing buttons

That is very true

1.000mA for 2 cell and 500mA for 4 cell.

@@srdjan272able , no :) And if so, pretty useless having a 4 port tester, that can only use 2.

@@off-gridscandinavia4048 Well, the adapter which you get with device is just 2000mA, so, there is no chance that you charge something with 4000mA if adapter is 2000Ah. I wonder, what if I use 4000mA adapter.. And, it is not useless.. the 500mA for charging is realy good charge..healty for batteries as well.

@@srdjan272able , 12V*2A=24W input and 4*4.2V*1A=16.8W Do your math and Ohm's Law ;)

Yes the disrespect on the opus lol. The internal resistance on these chargers are not very good though. But also the Opus has an always on display option if you hold in the display button, he should have done a little more research before making this video. Also the MiBoxer c4 can test capacity depending on which version you have but only on slot 4 and only at 0.4A.

Sounds like a winner. I've put a lot of work into my e-bike as a complete novice. It's worth it to me to pay a little more to have the confidence that it's doing a good job.

Now that I know what a nor test is(thanks to you), I still don't know what a FAST test is, in order to be able to tell the difference, which was my initial question. And when do we use either of them? in what situation specifically do we use the NOR or FAST mode? And thirdly, now that I've fully tested, recorded my batteries and drained them 50% or even 80% just doing stuff, what mode do I select when next I want to charge using the Liitokala, CHARGE, FAST or NOR? see what I mean?

How is it? I am not sure what to buy.

@@paulb9769 I like it better than my Nitecore D4 chargers because this has higher charging current and has capacity testing that I use a lot. But this was 4 years ago and I think other chargers have come out that have similar or better specs.

very useful

Hey I just got a Zanflare, and noticed that the cells do get hot... I even pulled one out in fear it might get damaged. If the cell is in good shape should I worry about it? Also do you know of any way to cool it down a little?

@@superpooper1945 - just aim a fan at the cells in the charger. The only difference, besides the charging current, from the liito and opus is the built in fan on the opus. But a built in fan and an external fan are very similar Edit: actually the opus does have quite a bit more space between each cell and slot so that's a factor too. But still, if you just get some good airflow over the cells, it should keep em much cooler than Normal. Also, most my normal cells get around 120 degrees during the discharge phase which seems totally fine. If they start getting up to 130 and beyond then I'd be more concerned. In my opinion they should never be too hot to touch with the back of your hand or wrist.

Eric Fling r

Some wrong content: The opus is the winner, because it can discharge at 1amp the others not.

@@BastelPichi thanks for the heads up. I've decided to run my ebike off this free energy I keep hearing about. I just gotta figure out how these KZfaq geniuses do it but can't fully divulge the exact informing or risk having a mysterious accident

@@ContentCalvin this freee energy is fake. Watch electroboom

@@BastelPichi Bigfoot told me all about it but it's hard to understand him he always talks so fast

Yes, but one thing I've never heard mentioned is that old phones using Analog or 2G radios will not be able to make 911 calls as there are no towers to hear them. 3G is also being retired over the next few years in the US, which should render any pre-4G phone unusable. How sad would it be to keep a phone charged in your glove box only to find out that it doesn't work in a life-or-death emergency? To avoid that situation, it might be safer to properly dispose of all pre-4G phones or at least /not/ in glove boxes. Some work fine as wifi devices, but only until their software or web browser grows unusably obsolete.

StopLossLOL it’s 2 years old and the favorite is unavailable without it being reliably a able in the future. That 20 minutes that I’ll never get back

@@hitechobo5586 he wrote the comment one year ago and the litokala is available. Just search yourself on ebay for lttokala li-500 and you will found it for US$20. I prefare the opus, it can discharge at 1 amp and the littokala only 500ma. I can do internal resistance checking too.

Is the Xtar X4 better?

@@paulb9769 It depends what you need. I have one XTAR VC4 and 3 Liitokala Li500's and use the VC4 very rarely. X4 is a newer version, but still does not have the advantages that Li500 has. Stable charging process and capacity measurement while discharging is too important for me

thats why i prefare the opus. It can do internal resistance checking too.

Please rest assured that Zanflare team would assist you to solve the problem, we really hope our customers could be happy with the purchase. Hope to hear from you soon. Thank you !

@@skate7016 Are these available in the UK I can not find any.

Actually, The newer (been out for about a year) MiBoxxer C4 will not test/discharge batteries nor will the high-end model (C4-12) The much older version was able to but that hasn't been around for some time and they had issues with its accuracy and they wanted their product to work fully rather than throw a half-ass test system into a great charger. I'm sure in the future they will bring it back, and I will buy it once they do. But the new MiBoxer C4-12 (3AMP charge on each channel at the same time) It's in a league of its own. Not many chargers come close to 3amps on all 4 channels. It's my favorite charger. (I use a different charger/tester to test my battery) It's built better then any other changer I have had and I have had them all. But It does not have discharge. It does not have a testing feature. The MiBoxer will give you the total MAH you have charged your battery from whatever percentage you put it on, but it will not discharge and then recharge and give you a full test readout. As it does not have one. The much older model did but that's been long gone. But as far as battery chargers go, the MiBoxxer is the best you can get in the $50 price range. Check out the reviews. It is very accurate as far as the milliamps, and it is one of the best chargers for not overcharging your batteries. Also, the best way to test batteries is at 500 Milliamps as you will get a much more accurate reading of the true MAH. Or at least do not test at over 1000 milliamps discharge/charge. It's worth the extra time it takes. You do it overnight and you benefit greatly. If you do one battery of the same exact brand and model at 500ma and then the next one at 1ma, you will not get the same reading no matter what. The slower you charge a battery the higher the capacity it will hold. Therefore you will get more power out of the battery overall. So I only suggest fast charging if you use the battery all the time and don't mind them degrading too much. If I plan on using my battery very often then I will charge them at 2 or even 2.5 amps no problem, except 18650 I don't charge over 1.50amps. But if you are going to have a power bank or a flashlight sitting around and not to be used often, charge the battery you will use in it at 500ma. You can gain a good 10-15% more battery life out of it compared to if you charged it at 2000 milliamps. Though I am guilty of charging 26650's and 21700's and even 18650's as long as the eternal resistance is in a good enough range to handle 3amps. and of course, it will auto throttle down as the charge nears its end or if the charger senses too much heat too quickly. That's the one thing about batteries, the last 10% of the charge current can either take away or add many cycles to the battery. This is why you never want to remove a battery from the charger midway if you don't absolutely have to. Even though you don't have the battery charged near its cap. It is still not the smartest thing to do if you want the longest life out of your battery. And on top of it all the slower you charge the longer the battery's lifespan. And never let your battery discharge below 10% if possible. You will greatly reduce its capacity over time. Just like how all 18650 li-ion batteries can charge to 4.35 volts. But by charging the battery that lasts 10% of its capacity will reduce the life of the battery drastically. I don't build power walls, I do build battery banks once in a while. But I am a flashoholic. I have a lot of high end very high output and high CRI flashlights. So amp draw and MAH come into play as some of my lights need a lot of MAH and others need high discharge rates in order to produce the maximum lumen output for the longest. I work in any sort of sector that I would need flashlights for, I just really enjoy them. Right now I would say my Noctigon K1 with Osram W1 Green emitter is my absolute favorite thrower it reachest out to just over a mile. 720,000 CD (with the w1 green Osram emitter) If you want W1 white 650,000 CD and that'll still throw way past what you can see with the naked eye. But this is why nearly all of my throwers are in W1 green. And no I do not hunt. Green just allows you to see things further away in greater detail. And your eyes pick up green better than any other color on the spectrum. I also have a JetBeam RRT-M1X Raptor, It an LEP and it will throw 1.4 miles and then some. It has absolutely no spill, it is basically a white laser with a thicker beam. The only thing is it's not an all-around use flashlight, It's a specialty flashlight made for viewing small areas at very far away. (But its a very fun toy) It is the longest throwing lighting device in that form factor you can buy right now. As it will cast light out past 2800 meters. (its a little underspec'ed so it performs much better then the box says it does) And it is literally about the same size as an Acebeam L18 (That would be my favorite white light thrower as it doesn't have spill at all. As for flooders. I like my Fireflies ROT66 GEN2 (XPL HI CW emitters) it is 14,000 lumens and the size of a Redbull can. One hell of a flooder. I also love my Noctigon D4SV2 XPL HI HD Emmiters) its 5,200 lumens. And my Fireflies E07 I have two one in OSRAM 15W (7,300 lumens) and that thing is the best blend of throw and flood I have besides my Astrolux FT02S (XHP 50.2 *4 emitters) 11,000 lumens. Then I have really tiny flashlights like the Lumintop GT Nano, the Smallest longest throwing flashlight in the world. And my FW3A XPL HI 5000k 2,800 lumens, is my EDC. Along with my Lumentop FW4A (XPL HI 3D) 3,600 6500K Lumens. I have so many more to list I shouldn't even get started. But if anyone ever needed to put together a search and rescue team in my area, I'm the guy you want to call. As most of the flashlights cant be bought here and are custom made or modded by Hank. I have tried going to FA meetings, that didn't last long. I would show up with flashlights and the whole meeting would go to shit. I have tried the group thing twice. I just can't seem to get off the lights. I can't stop. Something about the feeling of having something brighter than the sun in your hand. I mean yes I'm addicted and I'm trying to get help. But at least I'm no longer in denial about it. What I would absolutely love is if I could find a job that will allow me to use my flashlights and put them to good use. I would be willing to take a pay cut for a dream job like that. Maybe some sort of security or guard for a building. Or just some sort of liability protection. I don't know, hell even a reviewer. I would love to review flashlights and batteries, flashlight cases (I design my own) I also do something very interesting in cool with my flashlights that I do not want to give away here. Anyway, I hope some of the info I could give helps someone new to the battery game. And have maybe inspired someone to get an actual nice flashlight. Once you start there is no going back though. My first real flashlight was the Sofrin SP36 BLF (Quad emitter, High CRI, and High Lumen output flashlight 94CRI and 5560 Lumens. And I still use it often as it's a great mix of CRI and output as well as very efficient. The part I find funny is when I have the cops called on me because I walking around with something so bright no one understands what is going on. lol Thanks for the review on the battery chargers. It was very informative and I think I know what ill be going with now. Thanks again buddy, appreciate what you do, and the fact that you a truly a nice guy is what keeps me coming back. It's been getting harder and harder to find people that are actually nice and not just nice for youtube.

The problem isn't that it can't do resistance measurements, but that it doesn't (at least, not out of the box) do ones that are worth anything. You can get drastically lower readings just by putting a finger on the connector, because the connection isn't good enough, so in many cases, more of the resistance you're reading is from the spring connector than is from the cell itself.

HUH? how do you get the internal resistance without the battery touching the charger?

Measuring the internal resistance is always finicky as it depends on the battery temperature, the SoC, and the charge-discharge cycle depth and frequency. For example Ni-MH can read very high if they haven't been used, but they recover with regular use. Li-Ion can have a low internal resistance because of dendrites and of course they would self-discharge rapidly.

There is also a couple of different versions(might be 3??). I have the opus bt-c3100 v2.2. They supposedly address the resistance issue they had with the older version. They also address some other issue, including the noisy fan. You should never really trust any equipment when it comes to testing resistance. Just make sure when you record your resistance, you use the same exact method on all batteries going into the same pack. I personally spot check the resistance with the same old trustworthy method of a 1-ohm resistor(10-30watt).. then you take the Voltage Drop(example .10V) and divide it by the Voltage you got after you added the resistor(example 4.2V, with resistor 4.10) Math would be .10 / 4.10= (.0243)24Mohm. Using a 1-ohm resistor is just less headache when it comes to math. (other valued resistors and you have a little more math, to get the amp vale with the resistor) When I compare it to the Opus, I typically get a difference of around 50mOhm consistent, could be the spring causing the difference? I have no clue. Some claim to take apart and solder the wire directly(you can find this hack online). When I test my Imax ACB6 authentic version, I get results all over the place, but closer to the resistor test. It can be anywhere from 10-30mohm off sometimes and sometimes spot on. These are just my result and test methods. I am a newbie 200%. I really appreciate the replies! Look up (Tom Donnelly) here on KZfaq. He has a detailed video on the subject. Great video and Probably one of the best I found so far on the subject.

The IR reading from the BT3’ series is as good as any on the market. You will get variations when you run the test because that’s the nature of reading internal resistance. Just the small rise in temperature the cell experiences during the 1st test will cause the 2nd test to be a bit different. It’s a dynamic process but the OPUS are wonderful, especially considering the price. Think about the variation and ask yourself, Does a 10-15 mOhm swing make much difference when building a giant bank with used 18650’s? No, not at all.

franky4fing3rs it took me a year to realize that specially when those batteries were intended to use in multiple parallel

The imax b6 and comparable ones can do that.

it does in Texas

Expect and you shall be let down

lucky

I apologize, I may have come off as trying to be better with how cheap I got mine and not saying where I get my deals from. So first off after shipping my cost are .93 cents per cell which is still amazing and I'm still in the process of charging them before building the battery. So far they have all woken up from never being used and holding all within .1 volts fully charged and the place to get these deals and many others. Batteryhookup.com

compare to BTC3100 Lii 600 is closer to XTAR base on other videos also.

Dimschakelaar = discharge Cholesterol. = choose Snotter = other 😪Auto correction