Love these, great vid. I picked up a Kuma (with the half bolster) on your recommendation and for $20 it was worth every penny. The knife came very sharp right out of the box and I did not notice any blemishes. Thanks again for all the great content and your opinion and view points on the knives and sharpening systems. Hope you have an amazing holiday season!

Just saw that a new package is on its way to me!! So excited 😊 I have the Cerax 400 in that category because I love soaking stones

Great series Rykky. Thank you.

Love the Shapton glass 320. My go to stone for customers knives. My personal knives, kitchen and EDC never see stones since they pretty get sharpened after almost every use with your rolled buffalo strips with DMT 1 micron past and 0.5 micron diamond suspension.

The only stone in this line up i have is the Cerax 320-404 that is the brick, I'm in love with this stone, I love the way it feels how it works, the feel, the speed and the size. It may not be the best for most people but its perfect for me.

Awesome video Ryky and I can't disagree with your comments. My first set of stones were the super stones and they were fairly disappointing from a speed and feedback perspective. The choseras are awesome, but I've been recently using the Cerax 1K and Rika 5K combo as something about soaking stones makes it more 'fun'. Hopefully in 2019 I can start picking up some of the Shapton Glass as you recommend. Anyway, hope you're doing well!

I've only used splash and go stones in the past but was interested to hear you say you prefer soaking stones for this range. Question: Besides the required soaking time, what differences are there between soaking stones and splash and go?

I would be very happy to receive one of your Chef's knives as a Christmas gift!! Truly!!

I starting to get into sharpening knives and I've been looking at your videos and other videos as well trying to figure out if I should get 1 stone or two which brand is good which does its job well and looks cool and I've been on the scale of Shapton or naniwa or both which grit is best for me and all that

I still think it is very hard to beat Norton Carborundum for price/performance

Appreciate your feedback on these stones, you can save a person a lot of money learning and buy lesser stones. Keep up the good videos.

Cool video

Yo rycky are you ever going back to Japan if so where I was looking at doing knife village or seki

I have the Naniwa pro 400 and I dont like the feel at all... I will probably go for a shapton glass 320

Whats a good Stone for gokinko Steel? The one that older aritsusugs are. Its bomb proof and very slow To thin.

I love your vid

So, I have a question, how do the shapton pro compare to the shapton glass? I primarily use shapton glass for all my sharpening but have been thinking of adding some pro stones as well, but I don't want the feel to throw me off.

Can someone comment on the old Cerax 401 vs the new Cerax CR-400-G? Sometimes new isn't always better.

great video. No baloney/

Hi Ricky! May I know where to get the Suehiro Cerax brick?Really want to buy it😬😁

Question: Hello im new to your youtube site and i appreciate the information you have given me... i need to ask a question though: i already have a Naniwa Professional Chosera #400 do i still need to buy a shapton glass #320 grit sharpening stone? Thanks

Hey Ryky, Great video!!! Just checked out the "how to choose grit" vid' too... AND I know you're not exactly THE expert on it... BUT I gotta start somewhere. Okay, I know about "grit" from everything regarding sandpaper, stone-blanket, sharpening, grinding, and so forth... AND out of the geological side of college, Grit is basically "grains per inch" in a composite material, like a whetstone or common grinding wheel... In "practical theory" then, an 80 grit material would have a fairly consistent 80 grains of cutting material per inch of overall composite... SO here's my conundrum (related to your video and likely your own questions)... Does the whole industry have a single standard??? Is that updated from the older "grains per inch" and to what??? AND finally... How consistently do these companies test and assure their quality??? See, I'm thinking that the world "going to metric" has affected some of the sharpening/grinding engineering... It would make some sense that at least part of the industry is rating "grit" by "grains per centimeter"... BUT if part (cheaper?) of the industry is still going by "grains per inch"... well, that's a BIG discrepancy right there... and a source for headaches galore. The other side of the coin, is "you get what you pay for"... AND quality means CONSISTENCY... SO how sure is a given company that their 320 grit (for instance) has been "screened" sufficiently so they don't get a bunch of (say) 400+ grit material involved in the finished product... You cited the Shapton Glass stone, with a considerable difference in performance from the Shapton Pro, specifically "the Pro filling up faster" resulting in less efficient cutting... SO maybe the Pro' isn't getting the extra screen testing to see that there isn't smaller grit (higher number) contaminating some of the process.... Or something. Just tossing a few ideas together for you... in case you think it would make for a fun video to research. AND of course, if anyone has some good literature to cite... etc... I am interested. ;o)

What's with the FEEL? it's a tool for sharpening

Can you try the shapton 120 and 220 without the glass?

The superstone series are misunderstood (it took me while to appreciate them). They may be a little finicky and seem like a purely cosmetic stone but they excel at producing clean edges with minimal sized burrs due to the how they grind 'softly' and less harshly than most stones (if you have sharpened on diamond plates you might have an idea of how stubborn a burr can be to remove in contrast). There is almost no deburring required with these stones. However as you mentioned their grit rating doesn't match up to what you would expect which can be frustrating for someone buying their first sharpening stones. The 220 works more like a muddy 500ish grit stone which is really better suited to wide bevels (the whole series works great on wider bevels). Its not really beginner friendly as it is easy to wear away at the stone prematurely if using this to set a bevel. The 400 behaves more like a 700ish and doesn't work well as a splash and go. After a brief soak (maybe a few minutes) the behaviour changes and the loading issues disappear (you can work a small amount of mud after a few passes). The rest of the line follow a similar pattern (polish to a higher level than expected/slower cutting) although each stone progressively loads a little easier than the last (which can be rectified by soaking them a lil longer). The superstone 5k is my benchmark for 8kish polishing stones if I'm chasing that mirror finish (although the ss 2k achieves a similar mirrorish edge with a decent amount of bite to it) but it performs terribly as a splash and go. They may not be to everyone's taste initially but I enjoyed mine much more when I revisited them and changed my preparation method and treated them as finer stones.

Have you tried the King Deluxe 300? It’s actually a splash & go stone! I like it better than the Chosera 400. Check out the Amazon reviews, it’s very well loved.

Daddy like the display:) lol

It would be great to see Gesshin Stones on your channel. Some people consider the gesshin even better then naniwa chosera.

really like your channel but just would like to see you cutting actuall food rather than paper. i guess most of viewers do too. cheers all the best.

Every time you mention the price for a stone and say that it’s a good one, the price always goes up by $10 or $15. Our Amazon prices are always higher than your Amazon prices. So quit saying there’s all awesome. You’re driving the market. Ha!

Help us understand what “snappy” means.

Can I ask you, what the hell does rockwell rating have to do with anything? Sharpening is about abrasion. Steels have an abrasive/wear resistance property that is distinct from hardness. Hardness only slightly modulates the abrasion resistance of a given steel. Meaning yes the same steel at higher hardness does have some extra resistance to abrasion but it's not that much or that relevant. What matters more is carbides, the concentration and type. A 56 to 58 rockwell German knife, with a basic stainless steel like 4116 is going to be harder to sharpen than something like white steel at 61+ rc... by a lot. 60 rc VG10 is going to be nearly twice as difficult to sharpen as something like blue steel at at 64+ rc, the blue steel could be at 66 rockwell, the VG10 is still harder to sharpen. Those are just examples. 15v at 55 rc would be harder to sharpen than some white steel at 65 rc. your videos were some of the first I watched when I got into these things. Now that I know better it bothers me to realize just the massive amounts of wrong information you tell folks.