Glad to help! The air is too smokey where I live right now, but hopefully I can get out one more time before the season ends. Thanks for watching 🙏

Will try these settings.. thanks man

Cool...give it a go! Thanks for watching 🙏

thanks!

thanks! Shirt is from Cottonbureau.

Thanks for watching and the sub 🙏 To be honest, the D750 is still more than enough for most general enthusiast photographers IMO and I would be happy if it were my only camera even in 2020. It probably edges out the X Series cameras with ISO performance, but I have been fine with even up to 6400 on the XT3 and XT4 personally. You'll lose detail with high ISO like any system, but the X Series is probably slightly worse just going by memory and personal experience vs full frame. Even at lower ISO, you will notice the X Trans files are not as clean as FF if you really examine the files side by side. Non side by side comp, you won't notice much. There are of course workarounds to high ISO for whatever system you use, like stacking images for MW to reduce noise. Fuji is a much more versatile system for my personal use, too, going from landscape to street to family shots. The IQ of the Fuji is not going to match full frame when you are pixel peeping and going for pure clinical sharpness type photos, but for most uses, especially when paired with Capture One Pro, the Fuji IQ is perfect and a lot of times preferable if you want something very nice with minimal editing. If you are doing mainly travel, landscape, nightscapes and NOT video and really want Fuji, I would steer you away from the XT4 and just go with the T3 to save money. Better for landscape with its tilt screen, the remote port doesn't interfere like it does on the T4, and still pretty much the same IQ.

thanks for watching 🙏🏼 Settings really depend on what you're shooting. For this lens f5.6 or f7.1 provide the best sharpness for a landscape shot on a tripod. For astro, I just use it wide open or stop down to f2.8. I'm not too familiar with Lightroom mobile, but if you can, get the exposure as balanced as you can straight out of camera and you can make minor contrast and color adjustments easily in LR.

mkbhd.com/ from another KZfaqr

I use the ioptron SkyGuider Pro. I don't use it much, but it works more than well enough for the occasional milky way shoot.

You would get a zoomed in part of the milky way with this lens. The equivalent FF focal length is 75mm, so 500/75= 6 sec or maybe 7 sec max exposure time if you don't have a star tracker. You could take multiple exposures (maybe 10 to 20) and stack and align them in Photoshop to get rid of noise using a median stack mode. Or use an app called starry sky stacker if you don't have photoshop.

don't do auto focus, switch to manual. You also need to turn off the WB/Exp preview so you can see the LCD screen in the dark.

@@themagicallandscape yup I did turned of WB.. not turned of exactly but changed it to 4000k.

the cool thing about video is you can pause and always replay it you didn't catch it the first time. But yeah. I get it. I work in Healthcare in California and have to speak Spanish almost daily. My patients are not forgiving to me, Lol.

By zoom in, I meant use the magnification box in live view, not changing the actual focal length. I believe by default, when in MF, you can press the back wheel in and it pulls up the focusing box. After that, scroll in with the wheel to magnify it as much as you can.

Fujifilm cameras have manual focus assisting features, one is FOCUS PEAK HIGHLIGHT and this is basically an edge detector that draws the sharp edges on the screen. Sharp edges means that that part of the image is in focus, you can adjust the focus until the desired astronomical feature is in focus. There is also the FOCUS CHECK that will automatically perform a digital zoom as you manually focus the camera.