I’ll vote for you if you ever run for president. It’s pathetic homes are built properly in all respects. There’s so many lemons sold that ruin lives.

Even the "dented" is vented. That's just a disparaging term they use for soffit that has a lower Nfa than theirs. During the entire video they never said what their Nfa was vs the competition. That calculation matters when choosing ridge vent and sizing the gap. You can still have a properly ventilated attic with the lower Nfa stuff if you use it for every panel on both eaves and you properly sized the ridge vent to match the soffit vents Nfa. The last thing you want to do is put an 18-20 Nfa ridge vent if you have limited soffit venting.

Thanks for this info! I'm currently my own new baffle contractor lol. We just bought an old "rectangle on slab" house in downtown Albuquerque built in 1977 with 24" OC trusses, blown insulation, gable vents only, and just 1ft x 3" soffit vents set perpendicular to the house which are set about every 16ft apart..nothing more. We've had to remove all the kitchen and dining room ceiling drywall due to drywall sag and a leaking roof mounted swamp cooler (which I fully removed) and nope, not a sill baffle to be found anywhere. What I have found though is a soffit full of blown insulation! Needless to say, I've decided to kill the two end gable vents and will go to a ridge vent, with proper soffit vents. Our house is a rectangle set due east and west and so the south wall is in full sun all day (also the reason I bought it because south wall is the back yard!) Lastly, I'm DIY'ing the baffles myself with edge set 2x4 on the sill plate (set to inside of wall) with 16" of OSB glued and brad nailed to the top (I bevel cut the 2x4s edge to match the roof pitch on my table saw). This setup gives a 1.5" x 22" slit for the airflow from the soffit for each truss. I looked at the various styrofoam and polyethelene baffle options, but a few 2x4s and a sheet of 1/2" OSB is a hell of a lot cheaper and won't degrade as much over time. Lastly, I left enough gap around the edge of the OSB and 2x4 baffle assemblies to spray foam a "U" around the perimeter of each assembly to seal them up good to the truss and sill. I'm also adding 1x3 furring strips to the truss bottoms at 16"OC for the new drywall to prevent sagging (the original was also 1/2" and not 5/8 as should have been for 24" OC trusses) and for the new truss insulation we are using 1.5" foil-backed poly-iso foam in between the trusses (also cut 1/4" shy on each side for spray foam sealing) and will then re-blow 6" insulation back on top. And finally, I'll probably staple on a radiant barrier foil sheeting to the top of the trusses at the roof to help direct the airflow from the soffits and to create more of a conditioned space overall. I'm only going to do the south roof first though for now as our rectangle house is set almost dead nuts to east and west and is actually tilted southwest just about 10 degrees. It's a very ideal orientation which is why I bought it and I can implement some passive solar tricks. For example were adding a 12ft wide glass wall where our dining room is on the south west corner and will just keep the concrete slab as our flooring. The sun will heat up the slab due to the south face orientation and we have reflective shades for summer.

Amen. Especially here in the AZ sun/heat

@@thulsa5218 ummm... sun will never hit the soffit.

@@rickphillips683 depending on how the house is position and the sun rises and sets YES it does

I am in Texas - gable vents with a wired fan is great for ventilation if not the best. Ridge vents are quite inefficient unless you go wider vents (but prone to leak). You can add several active vents to the attic and see the difference. Yes, enough soffits are needed when several fans are installed.

Do you not have a ceiling and insulation lol. What an odd question.

You can Buy the TruVent hidden vent soffit, We installed it on our cottage in Muskoka.

why?