Except he says positive from panel has female connector and vice versa....completely WRONG!! 07:30

Glad it helped!

Everyone is entitled to their opinion. I have this kit and They ARE a very solid crimp. I do with the metal pieces were copper though.

Just acquired a new shop where I would like to setup a new studio for making more videos. Plenty of great ideas and videos coming soon. Thanks for staying with the channel through the period of time that I didn't have many new videos!

Would one of these "automatic wire strippers" (hand tool) be good? I don't think they have the correct shape of the crimper section. I wouldn't mind purchasing another tool, but my toolbox is full on tools I barely use and I have to make only 2 connectors, primarily because they won't fit trough the roof waterproof cable gland. I have to cut and fit MC4 to power bank. Perhaps I could try to disassemble the MC4 connectors instead.

Which MC4 style connectors don’t use, so they’re kind of pointless to try with Solar/PV MC4 cables and connectors.

No solder. Makes them brittle and susceptible to work hardening

Did you find out what the 2.5/4/6 are used for ? I have the same crimper but which did you use?

@@jabbosax i did, but i dont remember, seems like it was the bigger size. i think it should be on the spec sheet of your mc4 connectors maybe?

the numbers are for what wire sizes you are using in metric system, 2.5mm² (13awg), 4mm² (11awg), 6mm² (10awg)

Correct, but also only kind of correct. You’re probably quoting hard conversions which mathematically are fine, but in the US there is no 13 or 11 gauge wire used for these applications . The soft/rule of thumb conversions are 14ga/12ga/10ga

As the OP of the video commented before, 10ga is code up to 30Amps, if you’re exceeding that the solution is not to up the wire size but to string the panels differently to get under 30Amps as the rest of the system will not likely take an input of in excess of 30Amps either.

3:38 His crimper is metric and shows the slots are for 2.5mm^2, 4mm^2 and 6mm^2. 10 AWG is 5.26mm^2 exactly, but cables I come across do not match their cross-sectional areas exactly. The correct answer here is, 1) buy a crimper with a 10AWG slot, 2) ask your cable / crimper / MC4 crimp manufacturer, and 3) try it and test with a luggage scale or similar, how much force pulls your crimp out.

There is a rubber seal inside that forms around the cable. He failed to show that part.

the tools make sure you dont overtighten the cable gland. overtightening could cause the ruber seal to deform and loose shape which could be not waterproof.

​@@dorplein62 It's a legit comment, but it's hard to do that when you are bit cautious. I've noticed that I need those tools to tighten Staubli MC4. Staubli even insists that you need a torque wrench. (They have a nice tutorial, which gives you a peace in mind). I've commented as an amateur who knows what he is doing (I had to do that in order to make sure I have a backup in case russians destroy our grid system and there is a gasoline shortage at the same time, and the required knowledge of physics & electrical engineering seemed far lower than it was required to know to get a degree in CS & Control Theory).

@@tshev got it, you surely sometimes just have to work with what's available. Good on you finding solutions in difficult times.. It's always a good idea to do something in the best possible way. For electrical connectors, that is most of the time how the manufacturer engineers the assembly process.

They are designed to click over the ridges and ensure consistency. I would say they are useful when one is making a lot of connectors. They are cheap anyway. Most of the price of the kit is in the primary tool and the MC4 connectors.

@Wasn't Me New and better would mean that they'd use blue or yellow instead of red. And I have to say that the new tools and connectors work much better than what I got several years ago.

Why not? He didn't have to strip off that much, but it doesn't hurt if he does. All of it will be inside the connector anyway. The wires can't stick out or anything...

They did. I've got the same kit. You can look straight down the barrel of the connector and see which one goes.

charge your neighbors 25 bucks to crimp their connectors. Tell them you are saving them 25 bucks.

@@spockmcoyissmart961 🤣🤣🤣

The right tool for the job is essential.

10 at aliexpress, ships globally

Fifty bucks is nothing.... Especially if these cables are for your power to your existence when you live in an rv..... Don't drink coffee for a month

Is it? How?

Positive uses male connector, negative is female

@@greggles67 that is correct

Maybe so.. but if what he did fits and works.. then it's good enough to get the job done. So I'd say he was CORRECT.. not right or wrong. :P

The ring is a water seal. Positive and negative flip depending on if you are on the panel or the wire taking the power from the panel. For example an extension cable would be both male and female.

ring is not an indicator of polarity. sometimes it is white.

Since he pulled both cables, both ends were under the same tension. That was a bad crimp and a hand tightened gland that broke. The correctly assembled end held up.