You have explained Chainrings in an easy and understandable way. Yes, I subscribed. GCN couldn't explain it as easy as you did. 👍

Among the best explanations of chainrings anywhere. Gets to the point, easy and stays at it. Fantastic work.

Watching this again, have had a couple weeks to digest things and almost ready for a switch.

I’ve just done a service on a friends British Eagle mountain bike. It has a 4 by front chainring, never seen one before, or even knew they existed

Thanks a lot for this simple and clear video!

Excellent explanation! Thank you.

Succinct! Lots'a love, cheers, & Mabuhay, from your 290th subscriber from tropical Philippines! #KeepBiking

i am in love with 50 and 46t chainrings. 46t is easier and feels better for a city.

I had a 50t chainring it was so hard but good once I got it going lol

Thanks for the info, I think you answered my question on should I change the crankset for my Aventon Level, It came with a 170mm 46T crankset gear, and a 12-32T 8 speed cassette in the back. I live in FL so no hills and use my bike as a cummuter, but I run out of usability of the pedals after about 23 MPH (37 KPH), my legs cannot go any faster. May try out a 52T as i just want a little more useability of the full transmission and more top speed, i start in 6th gear and never really go lower than that since there are not hills.

What is the maximum number of teeth a chain-ring can have? is there a rule that the maximum size of chain-ring at an international event is 55T? or is it up to you? is a double or triple o-symetrical chrainring possible? Is there a specific training method for o-symetrical chainring? I mean the way you time it while swifting from inner to outer chainring how long did it take you to get used to it?

Nice vid!

Thanks for this vid :0)

quick question. after changing my chainring 34T to a 36T. do I need to change anything with the chain or gears?

A challenging question about bicycles. I love cycling and I understand you do to. I’m currently riding a steel frame Bridgestone. Beautiful bike. This bike has a top speed of about 46km/h on a flat clean windless road. I understand that the rear wheel gains angular momentum as its velocity increases up to a point where the required force to increase velocity is outpaced by the resistance force of the angular momentum of the spinning wheel. I can produce a maximum 1200 watts of leg drive and at 46km/h this amount of power is insufficient to increase the speed of the bike. To be clear at 46km/h I am still at a reasonable cadence so adding additional leg drive is not an issue. I know that if I get a lighter wheel/tire system for the bike I can reduce the angular momentum of the system and therefore increase the speed of the bike. But I have not found any studies that show how much speed improvement I can expect by reducing the weight of the wheel/tire system. In order to do a proper cost benefit analysis on how much I should spend on a new rear wheel, I need to know the calculation for, weight equals how much angular momentum. If we assume an average strong male cyclist can produce max sprint 1000 watts then we should be able to rate wheel/tire systems by speed. No? My second question here is how much if any does the overall weight of the bike contribute to angular momentum force on the rear axle? Do I need to reduce the overall weight of the bike if I only care about max sprint speed? Does the front wheel weight contribute anything to the resistance force of angular momentum at the rear axle? I feel like the front wheel and bike don’t contribute much to this analysis. I’m not at all worried about friction or wind because my leg drive is insane 😂 due to a ton of deadlifting. But when that rear wheel hits its angular momentum threshold, no amount of leg drive is going to increase the speed of the bike. I hope that makes sense, the ideas are clear enough in my mind but I’m not sure I’ve expressed them clearly here. I know you like cycling and I know you have the brain to analyze this question. I live in saigon and lack Human Resources and technological resources to find an answer to this question. But I thought if you found the question interesting you might have the people and tech around you to find the answer. Or perhaps you already know.

Im new to biking mod and upgrades. Just wanna ask if its ok to have a 42-32-22 crankset on a 7 speed? and if a 42-34-24 crankset on an 8 speed? Thanks

What do you call a chainring that is directly mounted at i think bottom bracket or the right crank arm? My bike is a classic track bike by Miyata.

Hi Sir, I am currently on a 38T(NW) Oval Chainring mated to a Deore 10 Speed, 11-36 RD(Long Cage) for abt 2 yrs, I actually upgraded it from a 34T NW Oval as well as it is too slow for me, I don’t do trails with my bike but only mostly on pavement, occasionally road and asphalt. Problem with my current 38T is that I hardly uses the smallest and the 2nd smallest cog even when going downslope or on flats as I find it too hard to pedal. But times when I’m pedalling at a constant speed on flats, very seldom I will even use the smallest cog to cruise. Should I change down to a 36T NW Oval? Also, I am afraid it will slow down my speed! I will need and appreciate your best opinion PLEASE.🙏🏻Thank you

Need someone to help me with my 60/46/32 mountain bike project. Not sure of Front derailer that can take the range

The optimal speed is based upon All assuming the driven road wheel is the size you’ve not told us... Modern bicycle wheels, old bicycle wheels can be of all sizes... It’s the overall ratio from the crank sprocket, through the rear wheel sprocket AND the diameter of the rear tyre... Point of note..it’s not a bolt circle diameter, it’s a Pitch circle diameter.

I was hoping to learn about tooth spacing and mounting for replacement chainrings. Denied

I want to make my chainrings cheaper. When Shimano moved to 4 arm 110 BCD, the chainrings became very sophisticated 3D and expensive. I am not sure whether to move back to my 130BCD 5 arm for which there are lots of cheaper 130bcd flat chainrings. Or, should I try a cheap flat/solid 110 BCD chainring. Litepro makes one which can be used on both 4 and 5 arm cranks.

I have a middrive 750w bbs motor 42 teeth are too few...moving to 55

Manufacturer says max size of 34t. I understand that with more teeth the circumference grows. Does anybody make spacers or anything of the sort to get around this?

I have a mountain bike with a 1x 11 11 to 52 tooth cassette that I'm using to commute I'm finding that the top speed is just to low at a max of about 42km what size chainring do you think would improve my top speed without destroying the hill climbing abilities to much as i do live in a very hilly area

Hi, l am touring using a triple crank, would it be possible to build my own crank using an osymetyric 55 chainring for speed, then add a lower tooth chainring for climbing?

48/32t is compatible to 11/32t? For climb

Can anyone help me please. Would a Single 40T front chainring and 11-40T cassette be ok for hill climbing and and going fast? Thank you

Wonderful.. I Need to upgrade my Scott Aspect 930 .. 10 x 2 gear system ... Shimano Deore ... front chainrings are 26 and 36T. Is a 36 T and 48 T combo available for this and from where ?

How do you calculate the speed based on chainring/cassette/wheel size/cadence?

Hyy Bro I own a semi fat bike in which I have set 6-speed gears it's been a year now and I go for long rides which makes me difficult bcoz of less gearing ratio so I have decided to change my front chain ring to a Narrow wide chain ring it is possible to do this?? And it will make my peddling smooth?? Plzz reply sir or anyone who knows the answer

I've got an e mtb which I struggle to pedal above 25mph, I'd like to be able to pedal it up to around 35mph, can I get a 3 stage chainring set to do that while maintaining the ability to tackle hills?

Cluld some one please call me and give advice I have Highland 27 speed mountain bike I want to put figure chain ring on the big gear maybe a 52 or 53T how do I get correct size

Wonderfully explained, clear and concise. I'm a novice cyclist.

Hi im currently running 50t on my roadie can i upgrade to a 54t ?

I have 52 chaing ring, I absolutely can not use my smallest cog, i wanna downsize to 42 or 44 and be able to use my smallest cog, i enjoy spinning more than grinding

i'm riding a cannondale caad12 ultegra with 52t chainring and using favero assioma duo. (1) if i switch to an oval chainring, will it any impact on the power reading on my favero? (2) if i opt for a 55t rotor round chainring, will there be space to fit without affecting the derailluer? pls clarify

I got 34T :( even when I pedal harder I don't go further

You should name this video 52t chainring explanation...

Plz answer my question I am going to buy marlin 6(trek) thats 1x drivetrain but thats really low teeth Can i upgrade it to a bigger chain ring for more teeth Bcz i will ride more onroad than off.. PLZ REPLY🙁

First comment 😁keep it up👍

Drive at speed downhill to keep in contact with bike cycle not be passenger, sure it's the oval or the hey fever mixture in a brown bag

Any cheap 54 (or bigger chainring) for ultegra r8000? The original costs 100 euro. This is ridiculus.

I searched a lot for 60-62 tooth chainrings for my triban500 can you tell me where can i get these types of chainrings ??

Helpppp?

The larger the faster, up to a point, the smaller, the slower, but easier to pedal.

Great explanation!. Have a gravel bike GRX 40T crankset. With 11-42 cassette. Like to upgrade it to GRX 42T to 11-42 cassette. Will this make it bit faster? How much faster? Keep it up thank you.

Is 53t chainring too hard to ride? Or is it manageable

All the gear no idea springs to mind.

50t is hard and 32 is easy but i chpse 50t bcuz of speeed😌

Noice

i have a hard time understanding the british accent sometimes, good content though

A 50 is small? Really?

Have you listened to yourself? You mix up number of tooth quite a lot, you talked about compact and repeatedly say it has 52 tooth !!!!