Thomas Oldbury - My e-Golf came with one of these in 2015, it worked for a while but started to randomly quit charging. Eventually it died altogether with no lights on. VW replaced it under warranty, I saw the parts price and it would have been about £600 to buy one retail.

@@andycarter5617 I think that money could buy you a 30-amp rated charger. I bought a 16-amp rated Duosida EVSE that can use either 120 or 240 and it was about $200.

@Dave Micolichek IT IS A FUCKING SCAM! I fixed mine by just chopping off the cables and taping them together.

@Против Глобал tbh its chinese engineering. pretty much all of these chargers are the same....ive got a Kangoo ZE and use a nissan charger with it...almost look very much the same like the renault one, same specs ofc.

@@andycarter5617 Yes, mine was replaced under warranty too, and it was a £700 part. Bloody expensive!

Zadster RIP Wildchild 😔

My favourite BigClive quote so far

@@vudbuk100 I laughed out loud at that bit, the wife stared at me.

Yep nothing like other people paying for a visit to their house....

That charger would be absolutely no good to me as all my Grandparents have passed away!

@@FetKiller Yea... My cheap relatives all got teslas. Becuase then they can do pretty much the full return trip on my power. Freaking cheap skates. Last time my sister visited she needed a 36 hour charge :(

@@hugostiglitz6914 Same here. but much children have

I’m still not convinced that these electric cars are any better for the environment other than the gimmick factor.

... that's the exact reason! The applicable standard for the device (DIN/IEC 62 752 here in Europe, in contrast to the "american" ISO/IEC 62 196 with an interconnected PE) is mainly based on DIN/IEC 62 335 "Circuit breakers - Switched protective earth portable residual current devices for class I applications" (SPE-PRCDS) which adresses the problem of using electrical devices on unknown or possible unsafe electrical installations. An vehicle surface of many square meters directly connected to a "hot" PE from an faulty installation resulting in a bunch of killed customers may result in a massive PR-desaster for the vehicle manufacturer... ;-)

It's also possible it's isolated to prevent electrostatic charge built up on the vehicle arcing to the ground pin on the connector (and potentially throwing a breaker). It isolates the earth until a proper electrical connection is made, so any static arcing is contained within the unit itself.

The UL-listed 120V, 12A EVSE for the Chevy Volt does an interesting thing. As soon as you plug it in to the mains, it makes sure that there is continuity between the neutral pin and the ground pin. If it does not sense continuity, it shows a fault and won't charge.

@@videodump2400 IEC 62196 seems to cover only the connectors, not the EVSE or "cord set" itself. For "American" standards for EVSE / "cord sets", UL 2594 seems to be what applies.

A GFCI should open the circuit if Earth goes live. I would feel better relying on that than exposing myself to the risk of livening the entire chassis to 208 or 220 VAC due to a simple short which wouldn't trip any breakers and which would make touching the car kill most people. The risk you describe is true of any non-double-insulated tool or appliance too. Your refrigerator for example. Unless I'm confused this doesn't seem like they grounded the chassis which breaks the standard.

Or may even send power down the earth if they go rogue. Consider that this charger isn't in the best of moods.

Somehow likely. Maybe it is something that is programmed in depending on a country or type of plug used. Probably worth sending to John Ward for further inspection and explanation :D He knows the earthing / protective ground and other electric stuff.

My thoughts are the fact that the frame of vehicles are generally referenced to the negative of at least the 12v lead acid if not the lipo as well, attaching Earth to the car would likely just lead to the circuit tripping from leakage

PEN fault detection hopefully, necessitating the disconnect of all 3 wires: line, neutral, CPC. Cheaper, less safe EVSEs don't have PEN fault detection earth disconnect but this one is a nice one and looks like it does. Also looks like DC leakage RCD detect implemented - all good (when it works!). Is this an EVconnectors.com unit?

@@jaykoerner Not in a thousand years unless somehow a wire with the positive on it is dropped straight to the mud. The battery *inside* the car does nothing outside of it, because the frame is all equipotential just because it’s a big chunk of continuous metal. The battery might be there or not, may be floating from the chassis or not - doesn’t matter at all as far as leakage to Earth would be concerned.

I'll tell you for nowt, you'll see a completely different grade of quality. They run for years without any maintenance - unless there's an odd breakdown - and I'm talking about mechanical 'computer' pumps and at £1.99999999 per gallon, those heads get some hammer !

@@millomweb 1.99 per gallon is cheap, lol.

That would be a bit bulky, but maybe just the tip...

@@sleeptyper The mechanical 'computers' of the day would do £2 a gall or more.

And only for a minute? :P

That makes sense. Especially as it seems to also detect rogue current flow in the earth wire.

In this situation, is a supplementary earth rod considered the earth rod at the customer's building? Or in addition to it?

@@brianleeper5737 i dont think the manufacturers would take the chance any of their customers having electrical knowledge!! so they leave it as simple as possible, just plug in, and then go make some "TAE"!!!

@@brianleeper5737 In a UK property with a PME supply, the supplier provides an earth terminal for the installation that is connected to the supply neutral conductor, there is no earth rod. To meet the regulations the earth for a car charger used outside the building cannot be connected to the suppliers PME earth terminal unless 1 or more conditions are met. Installing an earth rod and connecting it to the main earth terminal is one, but the earth electrode resistance must be very low. I put 2 3M long rods in the ground recently and the reading was still too high to comply. It is far easier to use a charger that has a built in RCD that disconnects all line, neutral and earth conductors, like the one featured. This is to ensure that if the suppliers neutral conductor breaks the car outside will not become live. An existing installation that has an earth rod as it's sole means of earthing (TT) does not have to comply with that regulation as a disconnected supply neutral will not make all earthed metalwork live.

man this is so above my pay grade. i think .... i think i might be learning stuff. i think i need to lay down.

Satisfying too when tell-tale signs become obvious. I've picked up many handy tips from here.

3 resistors? Series? Parallel? Series/Parallel? What configuration?

@@mikecowen6507 lookup J1772 protocol for details, but 2.74k on pilot to gnd tells the charger it is plugged in (9v). 882 ohms (3 2.7 in parallel) pull it to 6v telling it is charging. The pilot signal is +/-12V 1khz PWM so you need the diode to drop the -12v.

I think that processor maybe used for "Arduino" projects so maybe that community could help?

@@backacheache There are many hundreds of different Atmel processors, and only a few are used for Arduino. Without the model number it's anyone's guess. But the problem is not with the chip itself (you can look up the pinouts on the datasheet), the issue is in getting access to those pins. Hopefully the board designer routed the pins out to easily accessible pads on the PCB, otherwise it's a bit of a pain to get to them.

only high current DC charging has temp sensing. Common type 1/type 2 chargers only have 2 sense pins that are used to signal between the vehicle and the charger to signal plug is fully inserted, into a vehicle, and the vehicle is ready to charge

@@biggiejohn3360 The sensors I mentioned measure the temperature of the plug at the power input to the EVSE, not the vehicle end of the cord or the vehicle itself.

Fun fact, using an extension lead, it’s possible to run two 2kW heaters from a single 13A socket. And I mean for a week... And no, the plug fuse, the extension lead fuse or the fuse in consumer unit (feeding a single socket), none of them blew. Both heaters did have built in thermostats. When I discovered this arrangement, unplugged one of the heaters.

@@Mark1024MAK It's scary to see what people do with extensions.

Are you taking about huffing nitrous?

As long as you can be reasonably certain you'll wake up at some point (and not 100 years in the future!)

gotta learn Linux before I ever deal with w10, ...done with that gates shite

Now I got the urge to listen to Weird Al Yankovic.

It seems to have, but I'll be glad when things are back to normal.

@@Kevin-mp5of would'n ya have been freaked out if ya woke up and ya were a woman!!!!! god i hope i never have a hernia or kidney stones!!

@@Kevin-mp5of they sound like ya go through hell and look even nastier..

@@Kevin-mp5of Mine went purple and swelled up to the size of a grapefruit.

I'm guessing 3/4 of viewers LOL

@@mrsheesh3743 If not more.

He should sell merch with that on a T-Shirt

A regular Friday night in here.

What operation?

@@simontay4851 See the video description.

@@simontay4851 Clive Said that he was going for a hernia operation in the video description

Who's the smartass :P

Good idea. If you want to become an electrician try and get a proper apprenticeship.

It wouldn't surprise me if there's a PCB available that just generates the PWM signal for a fixed current and has no protection. Something small enough to fit inside the plug itself.

@@bigclivedotcom This looks like what you described: www.ev-power.eu/Electric-Cars/EVSE-kit-for-EV-charging-station-cable.html

I did have to stay at Ralfy's place the next day. The operation happened just before Xmas and it's still uncomfortable. I've been wearing overalls because I can't wear trousers yet.

Note that the ground/earth wire passes through the core in the opposite direction of the hot/live and neutral. This means that any leakage current to it adds to the magnetic flux instead of cancelling it out and makes it more sensitive.

I think it was the tumble dryer.

I love how you know Clive so well that you specified it being a heater of Chinese origin. Lol.

I'll have to try that.

With some research you should be able to find 48VDC inverters and they will operate just fine on 40VDC. But converting a 12VDC or 24VDC inverter to 40VDC operation isn’t really all that practical as there is so much that will likely need to be altered on the low voltage side and many modern inverters are at least partly microprocessor controlled (particularly those with pure sine wave output for PWM control), so some of the changes, like voltage set points, may be stored in the micro controller itself which you wouldn’t have access to which also means having to try and modify what it sees externally so potentially quite a lot of rework may have to happen on the low voltage input side, not to mention changing input fusing, replacing all input capacitors, creating a safe regulated power rail for all the electronic (the typical LM78xx and LM317 linear regulators are not necessarily going to be happy at 40+VDC input, both in terms of input voltage and thermal dissipation), altering the current sensing set points (if sensed on the input side), etc. Combine that with the fact that very few inverters (particularly less expensive units) have any sort of published schematic available (and the schematics are generally fairly complex) and it becomes very difficult just to figure out precisely what all has to be altered and where to make that alteration for any given unit without a lot of potentially damaging trial and error. It just isn’t worth it when you can buy them ready made for your intended application.

In terms of "then you're stuffed" if it breaks: Most people don't tend to use these things as much more than a backup/for occasional destination charging, as they're really slow, older house wiring isn't always great at handling many hours of pulling 10A from a socket, and having a weatherproof lockable socket available isn't a given for all. As such, most people with an EV will have a dedicated charge point installed which will be usually be 16/32A, properly wired in, and which either comes with a built-in cable, or a nice socket outside. Also when it comes to failures with them or even proper charging points, the same thing applies to literally a thousand things that can go wrong with any car. Having said that, the complexity of an EV is way lower than a petrol/diesel car which means less stuff to break, and most modern EV's have decent enough ranges that you shouldn't have issues getting to said important thing and/or another charging point even if it did happen. In terms of why don't they need a button press to restart charging: Firstly while I don’t claim to be an electronics expert, surely if cars are all charging happily, there’s a power cut, then power is restored later and they start charging again, why would they suddenly be “sucking the life out of the power grid” when it was coping before? I’d assume with industrial equipment the concern is that some of it could cause harm if it was powered up accidentally, whereas that isn’t a problem here. Secondly, I think you partly answered that question with your first concern. If you plug your car in and expect it to charge overnight (cars often have timers to charge when demand and prices are lower) and there's a power cut at 1am, is it reasonable to expect someone to notice that and go outside and push a button if they don’t want to wake up with a car that’s not fully charged? Thirdly, dedicated charging points are usually installed via a government subsidy, and one of the requirements of that subsidy has historically involved it having to have a little data connection that reports to OFGEM (?) so they can get good data on when/how people charge their cars to plan for wider scale adoption. More recently they added in another requirement that they also need to be able to receive a signal, which is intended to enable demand-response stuff in future. This can help optimise renewable energy usage (it’s gonna be really windy at 2am? let’s wait to charge until then), smooth and shift demand so it’s not a big spike when everyone gets home and plugs their car in, and if the grid is having serious issues, reduce/pause charging in an area until those issues are fixed.

@@hopkapi if there's a power outage and power is restored, sudden usage can cause serious strain on the mains supply. I'm sure utilities have long accounted for regular household things but with the advent of EV and widespread use, he is likely wondering how much more power is drawn suddenly in a restoration event.

It's a superb video. Up there with Photonicinductions coconut video.

I thought this for a moment, but I think it's just two pins very close together

It's quite hard to get off

Nick Miller I find I have the same issue when I have something tight and rubbery applied

@@ciarfah Don't lie. We're all friends here. You know it's not tight.

@@xenonramI'll just lift the latch and shove it in is it ok if I shove it in?

reminds me how i haven't had sex for 8 years or to be precise, my sex life is only 2 out of 36 years lived

It seems to go through in the opposite direction. That might be to sense current flow in the earth wire if there is a difference in potential between the car and house ground.

The most expensive part of an EV charger is the plug itself. Ended up 3D printing the CHAdeMO DC plug because I couldn't find one to buy.

I'll smother my nuts in salmon and shrimp paste and dangle them in a tank full of starving Piranha before I'd pay 5 Euros

@@paulpantsoff6584 we diddint need to know that

I imagine the relays cost about as much as the cable does. The cable in that thing is probably no cheap since it needs rather stout, thick jacket.

The earth is going the other direction, inverting it's polarity?

Berkeloid, yes, I spotted exactly the same. That seems to be a construction error. (EDIT - no, it’s not an error, see below) :-)

If it's wound in the same current flow direction as the live wire, it should work fine. In fact, it should provide a better resolution of the leakage current. Normally, when you just have live and neutral going opposite ways, they cancel out, and whatever's left (higher through the live than neutral) is the leakage current. This way, the leakage current's magnetic field is added twice, once through live, and once through earth. That is, if it goes through the earth wire at all, and not capacitively through you :) Or I could be totally wrong and it may have to do something with the special RCD detection of the car chassis becoming live like Clive mentioned around 15:10 ...

@@han5vk You explained it better that me :)

Ahh yes, it is actually fed through in the other direction, well spotted :-)

Nope. There's a separate buck converter to charge the 12V battery from the traction battery.

@@COBARHORSE1 Thanks.

No. Lightning will easily jump the small gap inside the relay.

whats 12v between friendly kidney stones

hahahaha f'in quality $ir

If the granny charger has the required DC current leakage detection it should be OK.

@@bigclivedotcom I can’t seem to see on the description if it does. Is dc protection standard in most uk regulated chargers?

@@bobby79834 Yes. They're designed to plug straight into standard 13A sockets and provide the extra safeguards.