You are wonderful! Your tip about cleaning the filter screen saved me the price of a new washer. Ecstatic, empowered 70+ female homeowner.

73 dummies here! Keep these videos rolling brother! You are helping a lot of people who can’t afford new and can’t afford a repairman. Semper Fi!

Saved me time and money. It overflowed and wouldn’t stop even when unplugged and we didn’t know what part to replace till we found your video. Thanks so very much! And part on Amazon was $15.00. (We found some on different sites, $75.00. ) And we installed ourselves in short amount of time.

Today's date is January 23rd and it is Saturday 2021 I'm leaving this comment to let you know whenever you see it thank you thank you thank you for sharing the knowledge you are truly a man of knowledge

Awesome video!!!.....used it step by step to troubleshoot and fix my 18 year old Whirlpool that was filling slowly on the cold water side.......replaced the water inlet valve assembly for about $28.00

I cannot believe how many videos I am watching on washing machines ;=) I have a Cabrio that has been a pain over the years. I replaced the drum hangers on it a few years back and 2 other repairs - a pump I had done and a control board. Now I have a LF error that seems to happen when I specify the load size or cycle. If I leave it be on Auto and medium, it works. My conundrum is I cannot decide on a new machine vs replacing the inlet valve and is it the valve or is this a control board sensor issue. 120.00 is not that much but if it is not the issue, it is a waste. If I could choose a new machine, I'd just buy it but I'm not really enthused with any. Speed Queen seems to have controversy over its old/new models. Front loaders are a whole nother animal. This was a nice video - thank you.

Hi I work for a major Restaurent Company and because of this Video I was able to fix therte washer. So thank you very much.

Live on the beach & constantly fight red ard water scale on everything. Washer won't fill today hoping that's the E-Z fix. Thank u!!! it's so nice to not have to call a man for help especially a repairman. Much gratitude from a single mom on a budget bc I have a toddler w a complex medical case who recently had a liver transplant. It feels good to have control over something in my chaotic life even if it's just my washing machine. Your karma basket is FULL Sir. MUCH 💝 from FL..

Thank you Bill. I showed this video to my husband and he said he suspected it could be this but you just confirmed his suspicion. Now he can order the part.

Great video Bill! Thanks. If the washer isn't filling and the pressure switch is fine and the washer valve/solenoid checks out as well, there is a fuse on some models between the pressure switch and the controller which may be the problem. Replace it with a 4amp quick blow fuse.

Great video! The very last thing you mentioned was what I needed to hear! If the water still flows when you unplug from wall-water inlet valve is bad! Exactly what my machine does!

Great demonstration Bill. Correction needs to be made in your description of the water fill circuit. Water level switch or Pressure switch, to the Water Temperature Selection switch, then inlet mixing water valve solenoids. Supply Water pressure forces the the valves closed. The electromagnetic force from the energized solenoids opens the valves. Spring and water pressure closes the valve diaphragm once electrical current stops. Many of the manufacture service manuals no longer describe the function of the valve, just how to test, remove and replace the valve.

Thank you sooo much. My basement was flooded from the Performa top load washing machine. After watching your video I was able to fix it. The hose was damaged and clogged. I just blew some air in the hose and replaced the damaged piece of hose. We are back in action again. Your the best.

Thank you so much, Bill! You helped me solve my issue of having no cold water, and saved me the price of a new washer or hiring a repair service. Thanks for breaking it all down and making it easy to understand.

Nice video Bill. Your voice is relaxing and has calmed me down listening to you as you clearly and good direction in this repair job. Thank you

Excellent video Bill 🧐, I was experiencing the water inlet being clogged w/sediment On a Whirlpool Commercial coin operated washer, removed both screens & cleaned up Also had to replace the dogs in the agitator. For the first time in 19 years, and the machine still washes great. Thanks Bill!

Awsome. Haven't tried it yet but as a young senior woman with no man to help you have made it clear that I can do it myself!!! Then I dare any of the guys to ask me again to do their laundry. LOL LOL

U are helping people save.because if u go and buy one it will cost u a lot just a little videos from u to fix the little things it needs is good.stuff just to high now.so I appreciate it because it's the truth.that wat mine are doin.i my need valve but it's simple.then goin and get another one I don't hv the money so if I can fix it.just by watching ur videos.know doubt.thanks again

We put down new flooring in our kitchen and since we put everything back our washer fills constantly, even after turning it off and unplugging. I had to turn the water off at the wall. I'm pretty sure we hooked the hot and cold up wrong (crossthreading?) So now I'm replacing this part and feel confident!

Thanks for the troubleshooting walk through! Appreciate the way you covered both the big picture and the critical details.

Thank you so much for the informative video. The only thing I wish you would have included was how to open the cabinet. I have never worked on a washing machine that opened this way and it took me forever looking at parts diagrams and videos to figure it out! Of course the one I'm working on is branded magic chef and there are no videos showing this model.

Hey Bill, I hope you check for comments.........My 28 yr old Amana is having issues. I bought it used a few years ago and the cold water just trickles in. This was with a new hose, new screens and we checked the water pressure......all that's fine. Because of where my washer sits, it's not easy to pull it out and tear into it, so without using a tester or tearing into it, I eliminated the inlet valve as the problem by swapping the cold and hot hoses at the hook ups, so the cold would run thru the hot side and vice versa. The cold trickled into the hot side. I only recently found it might be the timer. It has another issue too, but I'm on the fence about fix it or because of it's age, buy a new washer. It stops mid cycle and smoke comes up around the drum. I can let it rest an hour after it fills up and not do the extra large loads and it's fine. When it shuts down, it has to rest a few days and then it's fine! Is that also the timer?

Thanks! I will give it a shot. Pretty sure that is what it is, but it is nice to have a refresher.

I like your videos. Your information is fairly comprehensive and the video is well made but even better, you don't treat us like idiots.

Thanks for the clear and detailed explanation!

Well done captain. You made my problem a simple one with this video. Thank you !

Seriously, thank you sir for sharing the knowledge you save my washer and I greatly appreciate you as a human being 👍. There's a worldwide pandemic that's called covid-19 currently and it's hard to get someone to come out right now and even when they come out you never know if they have covid-19 only did you save my washer you may have saved my life thank you.

Great video, we live in Alabama and the e build up from chemicals is terrible I I know that is it we replace water heater elements often thank you

Thx Bill. Great video. How would I know if the control board is shot and I need to junk the whole washer?

Thanks so much for the information. Tried the other possibilities and the water still ran free. I found your video and will be buying the valve tomorrow.The cold water runs whether the the machine is on or off.

Good stuff my new friend. I hate buying new machines if it's a easy fix.🍻

Tested and got 120 at the connector. Replaced it and still no water. Ordered a pressure switch so will see what happens in two days. Of course, I didn't test the switch and didn't blow in the hose to check for an obstruction. I'll do that on Thursday. If these don't get me water, I'll look for a new control panel - as my wife looks for a new washer or a new husband.

Just wondering, my Maytag washing machine continues to fill even when power is off. I have had to turn the tap off to stop this, does this mean it is the water valve defective?

Question from Kansas. GWL15 wouldn't drain. Back story...I replaced the diverter, pump and drum bearings 6 months ago. All worked fine until last week when it wouldn't drain. Removed the diverter for inspection and reinstalled. Removed the pump and cover in tub, it was clean. Started new washer....it stopped. Discovered the bay below electronic panel was full of water and fried the board. H/C water valve bad? Strange all this happened after my inspection Comments appreciated. Rick

I wonder if you could offer an opinion on this one. We have a 35 year old Kenmore/Whirlpool washer, a high end model that still runs perfectly except that it just buzzes for about one minute at the start of the initial fill cycle, and then fills normally for the rest of the cycle. There is little to no flow from the detergent/softener trays during the cycle. The back story is, this is a model that uses two valve units, an inlet/mixing valve with three solenoids, and a dispensing valve with three solenoids. The original valves didn’t fail until the machine was about 20 years old. Our repair man at the time installed both new FSP valves and it ran great again, but they both failed again just a few years later. Since then I’ve been buying new-old-stock valves on eBay (Whirlpool stopped making them about 10 years ago), and they work great for a few years and then fail. Why would they fail so frequently? Flow from the wall is good and the screens on the valves are mostly clear, though we do have very hard water. As best I can recall, the pressure switch is either very old or possibly original. I’ve tested the resistance on the failed solenoids and they’re always around 900 Ohms, and the plungers with the iron cores move freely. Yet, putting in new valves fixes it. What am I missing?

Hey Bill. I disconnected my cold line and I didn't see a screen. All I saw was like a small copper line in the center and a rubber gasket around it. I have a slow trickle on both.

Thank you Bill. You just saved me a ton of time and money.

Thank you so much for this video!!🎉

Good video. My washer has intakes going horizontal instead of vertical also has plastic filters. Is that basically the same repair? If so how does the plastic filters come out unlike the mesh filter

you're awesome,Thanks bill ......... I manage to fix my washer ..without it costing me so much money :)

So my question is my washer washes and rinses the water out the first time second time it does not fill at all. I can hear it ticking waiting for the spin cycle but it never fills up again. I'm going to check the screens as you indicated on this video and I learned something new today hopefully that's the problem.

I have a question my washer is filling with water and then emptied and then repeated my pump is running constantly after this even when I turn it off. Is this due to. The pressure switch ?

Great video. Straight forward.

great information Bill RIP

Thanks man very helpful

F20 on Kenmore Elite he5t model #110.47791700 Problem: F20 error appearing mainly into mid cycle after wash step; sometimes during wash but most of the other times during rinse cycle. At which point, pressing the stop button triggers the drain pump which runs for a long time. I just turned off the circuit braker and ran the rince and spin cycle for 22 minutes which always completed wihtout error. This error is a water flow problem and more likely water blockage. My problem would have been fixed in step #2 but I was differently routed and hence came to know more on the working of the washer's different sub systems and I was able to clean the drain system clear of blockage which would have otherwise caused problems in future. Solution steps: 1. Turn off circuit braker to the washer and turn off supply valves for hot and cold water. Clean any gunk or mineral deposits by the water inlet valve filter screens on both Cold and Hot water hoses. Now that the both hoses are detached from the washer inlet valve and still attached to the supply valves, run them both with hot and cold water respectively by opening the supply valves to clear any debris. If they're blocked then remove the blockages. Also, clean the washer door rubber belt ring from inside and remove any socks or blocakges if any. Then clean the washer drum bottom trap door by the drain pump to remove any gunk, garbage and blockages. This trap is visible by opening the bottom panel of the washer. Optionally clean the interior and exterior drain hoses (runs from the drain pump to drain outlet near water supply valves) and its T fitting by the top of the washer on the outside back of the washer. Likely you'll find so much gunk. Also check the drain pump motor and fix it for any water leaking from the motor. I fixed the leak with gorilla glue and silicon layers since the motor was rotating and running fine. Otherwise replace it for $20 AMI PARTS 8181684 Water Drain Pump(www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RYT1NMK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A2Q4PTQ9IBJNK8&psc=1) 2. Attach hot and cold water hoses back to the washer and remove each of them from their supply valves. Drain both of the hoses out of water completely by holding them to the bottom floor into any small bucket. Then wear gloves and very slowly pour 1/2 cup of demineral solution CLR (www.walmart.com/ip/CLR-Calcium-Lime-Rust-Remover-Multi-Surface-Cleaner-28-Oz/14574716?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0) in each of the hoses by holding them up high (near shoulder) then hold or tuck them high by the back cabinet or wall and support them in that position for four minutes or so. Or just keep holding them high. This is to drain CLR into the water inlet valves deep enough to clear any mineral deposits in them. Then attach both hoses back to water supply, turn valves on and wait for 30 minutes or so. Then run washer with an express cycle, warm water (hot and cold) with no clothes in the drum and with washing detergent for half the normal load. This will clean and clear out the stuck open or stuck closed water inlet valves. This cleaning can also be done by removing the inlet valve, opening it up and cleaning the mineral or gunk deposits. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rbSAm5N60Jvaqo0.html; kzfaq.info/get/bejne/irR2lJqSuMysl4k.html 3. By this time if water flow and error F20 not corrected then likely the water flow meter has gone bad. This part can be tested with multimeter and/or replaced with a new one. Not sure if this works but turn the flow meter 90 degrees clockwise as stated in this video (kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ob-lhbR_x7idfpc.html). But if the water flow meter checks fine on multimeer then replace the water inlet valve with a new one since the cleaning of it didn't work in step #2. During this time while the top panel is open, if you find that the water level air pressure switch connecting tubing hose (tube connecting the pressure switch to the back of the drum tub) dangling very near the drum tub, then inspect it for wear and tear or perforation holes or any other damage. If found damaged then replace it with 5/16 inches vinyl tubing. Just heat up the vinyl ends with hair dryer for ease in installation. For replacement, the back panel and total of about 13 screws need to be removed before you get to the tubing. Tuck the new tube into the clip attached with the drain hose near the back of the washer panel. If no clip then secure zip tie it with the drain hose. If no damage found then simply clip/tuck the old existing tube or tie it with the drain hose. See video above and here, kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rs2Zo9F1uN-nl2w.html Tips for DIY: 1. For F20 always follow the water flow to locate any blockage starting from the supply valves. 2. For error like Sud followed by F35, the water level pressure switch and the connecting tubing is the culprit. Try the tubing first which could be a cheap fix if worked the first time. If not, replace both the switch and tubing together if you are not sure the tube is damaged by inspecting it. 3. If the part can be checked on the multimeter, do that first to find if the part has gone bad. 4. Walter inlet valve is both mechanical and electrical part. Learn the working of it (kzfaq.info/get/bejne/irR2lJqSuMysl4k.html) to know if you need to clean it before replacing it. 5. Don't replace the control board or other high value parts before you have drilled down and pin pointed enough on them. Check the troubleshooting code guide for your washer and locate the respective system within washer first to isolate problem area and then respective parts. Try repairing the problem part first before directly replacing if you want to save on costs and/or simply curious to learn more. 6. There is a plenty of help available. Just search online, youtube or ask experts at appliancepartspros.com. If not, reach out to the manufacturer tech support and talk with a technician. Always document your problem statement clearly and then the steps you have been taking to isolate and correct the problem. This is for you as well as for any technician. 7. I would suggest not to replace suspecting parts together just in case. This would prevent you from knowing what really caused the issue. Always isolate problem part and try to repair or clean it if easy and not time consuming. Then go about replacing it. Remember, technicians do not have all parts with them, they also take time in ordering before they come back and try the solution. You're just doing the same on your own time. In my case my turnaround was lightening fast (overnight most of the time) in compare to any techinician's help or work because it takes time for them. This is achieved through practice. I was trying the solution in the evening followed by a laundry in the morning to see if problem corrected. Moral here is not to succumb to demoralizing thoughts. 8. I have observed that the parts for Whirlpool/Kenmore are very expensive in compare to GE washers. If GE washers are more reliable then you have a clear choice. 9. All brands of washers (even dishwashers) and dryers have similar parts in their design and workings in the system just different fittings. Just know how the part functions in the system and then try to repair or correct the problem.

Verry informative !!!

Very good video. Very well explained.

those contact on the solenoid are black, there is the possibility that there is 120V but the current is not going through due to the dirty contacs

Thanks Sir. Good Instructions

When my top load washer is filling it sounds like the water is immediately leaking back out of the bottom of the tub but there is no water on the floor from it. I have even tried just pouring in a bucket of water and the same sound happens and the tub doesn't fill. Any ideas? Thank you. This problem started after we had a severe freeze in my area recently.

can you test for continuity on valve terminals also?

Very helpful..i pull the plug and water still comes in...bad water valve thanks

Super nice videooo,thanks!!!

Bill what if your washer is only filling half way? and also sometimes only gives cold water no hot. It sounds like the inlet valve what do you think. Thank you.

Guess i should of watched this video before asking a question on your last video. If the pressure switch and inlet valves test good, what would be the next step? Samsung front load washer....

Thank you so much.

Great info. I think your valve was clogged with a fly at 3:14. It flew in my ear...lol

Very Helpful.

You don’t necessarily have to unplug from the wall to test a machine that is filling on its own slowly. Just have it off and let it set overnight. If it has water in it in the morning, your inlet valve is bad.

Very good information thanks bill

I need to watch your pressure switch video. My washer is agitating as soon as I turn it on but not one drop of water comes out on the hot or cold side. I had the rubber line pop off the pressure switch one time that made the washer keep on filling till it overflowed onto the floor. I think the switch is probably stuck this time. Wont fill no matter how I play with the switch or turn the other one on hot or cold. Just want some more info before I attempt to fix it by replacing the pressure switch.

I have replaced the inlet valve twice in the last two months due to slow, slow cold water fill. Any idea why it would be going bad. After replacement it works fine for a couple weeks and than slow cold fill again

Love your videos Bill ,Can you do a video on when the tub doesn't seat properly, I mean when the tub leans towards the back...Thanks

Thank you, so informative👍🏽

Good video thank you!

Excellent info thanks man.

Big help thanks!

What is that other little wire on the valve? I seen some with it and some without it. Im puzzled. Whats it do?

Hello thanks for you video but what is the problem if you don’t have 120 v to the valves

Nice video

The solonoid casing on my cold water valve has cracked and I plan on ordering a replacement. Is there a safe way to test if the lead wires are still supplying voltage to the solonoid? I'm worried about spending money on a part just to find that the power supply has been damaged.

I have a maytag that all the lights on it is orange and not green. I also was able to put it in diagnostic mode at first but now it want even go in diagnostic mode. Hopefully you can help. Not sure where you are located, but it is 12:00pm here,so I will look tomorrow morning to see if you replied. Thanks in Advance!!

can I test the valve while its connected to the washer on a maytag bravos xl mvwb750??

Thank you!

Thanks for the information. Will be testing our washer. When I place the washer on a hot cycle it fills up with cool water but as soon as I turn off the cold water value to the washer where only the hot water can run in, the water is extremely hot. Have you ever heard of this?

What is the part that the yellow wire is connected to on the water valve ?

Hi Bill, I have an older Whirlpool top load washer that is not dispensing hot water. Cold is fine. I replaced the inlet valve, swapped out the hoses, checked for corrosion but it still not giving hot. I turned off cold and left hot on and still no hot water. Any assistance would be appreciated!

Good information and video bro. Thanks.

My portable washer, the cold works fine. When I try to use hot it takes a moment to works, fill for 10-20seconds then stops and does nothing . Is this a problem. With the inlet or pressure?

Love the video🙏

Anyway to test run this same machine while opened up like this? I have a leak and can’t seem to find it and want to test run while open. I have replaced drain pump and still got a leak up front. Taking cabinet on and off is just not very doable where I’m at.

Hi. I have a GE front load model GFW450SSKOWW. It hums when you try to wash , hot and cold is doing the same thing.

Great video! How do I change the cool water solenoid?

I have a Kenmore elite Oasis. I run the diagnostic test that cycles thru each cycle. when I do the test it does fill up but when I want to wash it doesn't

How do you troubleshoot the electronic water level control wpw10248240?

No water going in my old kenmore. When I set it, I notice the timer doesn't move either. How do I know if its the water valve or something else?

My washer start filling then stop. Could it be the inlet valve? And also the Cold water switch has a crack in it. So you think that would stop it from filling? Thanks a bunch.

hi Bill could you check the water inlet valve contacts for continuity? so if you check between the two contacts if it is open could that mean the coil is bad? thanks

Great videos Bill! I’m having trouble with the washer filling. I checked pressure switch using your video, seems good. I am getting 120V on all solenoids (inlet valve) on all temp setting except the cold solenoids on cold-cold setting only. I can get the washer to fill on a warm setting however it will not refill automatically for the rinse cycle. We have to turn on/off the washer several times to have it start to fill. Any idea where I can turn next.

While in the wash mode, water has not filled, and water is going out from the drain hose while in the wash mode. What could be the problem?

What if a washer overflows on the first spin/rinse cycle ? Doesn't the pump turn on to alleviate any high water conditions during the rinse cycle ?

The inlet valve supply water and after 3 minutes of washing it shows E10 that's when it drains the inlet valve will not supply water again

So on my whirlpool wtw4816fw2, it starts filling and the water goes straight out the drain hose. Obviously the valve is stuck open. I put the selector on cold and checked both sides of the valve. The cold has 120 and the hot ZERO. I put the selector on hot and the same thing. Why could I not be getting voltage to the hot side? Is the control board fried or does this have to do with the water temp selector switch (dial)? Thx Bill

very helpfull thanks Bill !!!

Great video. Thanks!

Thank you. Nice video, keep it up👌👍

My Kenmore 110 washer has a slow cold water drip into the tub when machine is off. When I try to run cold water only, flow is very light. Warm or hot, I get good water flow. From what I heard here, maybe my cold water screen is clogged, but then why the drip? Hope you can help - thank you.

my Frigidaire washer would just fill water for 3-5 seconds then stops and does nothing more it sits there for like 10min then it fills again for 3-5 seconds then stops. I thought the problem was the waster level switch I replaced it and still doing the same thing.

Helpful