thanks

That’s Wet Tooling Flim flam that would get any real caulker FIRED back in my day!

@@toecutter1015 why?

This bit had me the most confused, googled Washing Detergent and it thought it was for the washing machine, however the only detergent I know is for the dishes.

You are exactly right. No need to get your fingers in it at all.

I have to disagree with everything I am afraid. Concave looks messy, unclean but most importantly the thinner edges of a concave a much more prone to get unstuck when regularly cleaned. Also you never cut the nozzle clean and it will always leave tiny scratches. What you are describing is basically half of the job. After what you leave I would put wooden stick with tip cut flat less than width of the bead and run it along. The stick is best kept in cup of fairly strong solution of washing up liquid so it soaks it up and eliminates the need for spray. Resulting in °45 angle nice strong bead with even edges and smooth sheen on top that's easy to clean and last lot longer. I should say I am a mastic man from UK and I have to say I never seen mastic done properly in US so you are not the only one.

@@lipeeno Is "mastic" the same thing as what we in the USA call "caulk?" What shape of stick? Round? Square? Rectangle? Would you use that same "stick" technique after the 45 degree tip cut and "pull smoothly" method shown in the video? Do you always use a "run bead and then smooth with stick" method on every caulk you lay? Seems like the main difference between what you are suggesting and the "finger" method shown in the video is that you keep your finger clean. You say a "wooden stick with tip cut flat less than the width of the bead." Since the bead is maybe 1/4" at most, isn't that a very small stick?

@@TheLarryBrown I would agree with @lipeeno - use some sort of stick (or plastic) that has a straight cut at the end, not a finger. Stick will create a flat seam instead of concave - it will be more durable and easier to clean. Moreover, don’t try to clean up the excess silicone that gets pushed to the sides (then using finger you will most likely have to stop to clean it). Trying to clean the excess will just mess up the whole work, and stops will make the seam inconsistent. So just run the seam with stick holding it at 45 degree angle (the excess will be “cut” off the actual seam material), let it dry and remove the excess when dried, it will come off as silicone ropes pretty easily.

love using my fingers tho

Is washing detergent dish soap or laundry soap?

I would love to know too. We don’t use that term in America. Thanks!

Glad I could help and you enjoyed the video 👍👍

Does he mean washing up liquid?? 🤔 And water..... He says washing detergent

No kidding. This is horrible advice. Surfactants are bond breakers. The only way to NOT get soap in your joint is to caulk the entire thing and the spray the place down with... why do I even need to explain this 🤦

@@harmonyintegration6612 sounds like you know what your talking about but your comment makes no sense at all… I’m trying to learn and sick of the fairy liquid vs it doesn’t bond please explain yourself more clearly for me 👊

Caulking squares work much better, may not be as easy but no worries on adhesion due to contamination ie washing detergent/soap/windex now the chance of contamination going all the way through to create a leak is probably pretty slim but not one I’m willing to take on someone paying me 10k 20k for a bathroom remodel. Also keep in mind the showers pros are building today are fully waterproof before tile touches the walls. Mildew and mold buildup behind tile is another conversation but you get the point. Just because something is easier doesn’t mean it’s the right way

@@davidc830 fingering of the bead causes the concave. Concave causes thin edges that will get unstuck. Use tools like stick with tip cut flat and little less then the width of the bead or plastic squares. When applied bead wet your finger and press the bead against both surfaces. Itll look messy but don't worry, spray it then with washing up liquid and water mix put your tool of choice on the bead (°45) press firmly and wipe the bead along. As you pressing on it you'll squeeze any left soap between the bead and wall. The soap on top and tool will make straight and clean bead with even edges. Personally like to run finger across the bead to polish tiny scratches from the tool and get some sheen on it as well as to make sure the bead is stuck properly. When you master it you'll be able to apply it 95% perfect with the nozzle and smooth the 5% with a wooden stick

@@davidc830 look at Charlie diyte to find out how to do it properly

Use the detergent but instead of using finger use paddle pop stick.

​@@regwright1716Does not work in tight areas and tight corners.

I still do this on small bits that i cant be bothered to go and get a spray. wors a charm.

Why not just wear gloves?

Next step is wiping it all on your trousers 😄

Using your finger with some spit helps mould grow faster on the silicone.

Good advice. My friend who I worked for time to time told me the same of working concrete. I believe the saying that is appropriate for this is "the perfect is the enemy of the good".

Old saying ...If it looks good ..it is good ..then leave it alone 😊

That's such a good point about not mucking around. I do it sometimes when shaping my beard, keep trying to get it perfect and even, and end up going overboard and having to shave the whole thing off 🤣

thanks. I always try to go back and correct errors but it just causes a chain reaction of more and more fixes. 85% is a good rule.

So true. Every time I’ve ever tried to make my caulk or silicon look better always ends up looking worse.

CAULK

update???

And totally useless for 9 out of 10 jobs. Cut the 45 on the tip, get a wet rag handy...apply smooth and consistent....wet finger and ease down caulk line at at least a 45 degree angle and stop with the finger as soon as it start to build up on the sides and wipe onto rag.....repeat.....for final wipe....put rag over finger and gently wipe down the caulk line to give a finished consistent look and clean off any that may have been pushed out on to the other surfaces. Practice makes perfect....good luck.

Totally incorrect way to do it...no liquids should be used, it stops the bead edge sticking firmly and always comes off...water creeps down the side of the shower tray and cause big damage to rooms below. Had a lot of work over the years repairing ceilings because of this technique used by "pro's" that never get asked back to their work to see what a mess they made

Great insight.. So are you saying use water or this special degreaser? Can you post link to this degreaser pls?

there is a other bettter way to finish the silicone sealant by using the caulking tool, if you need, we provide you for free to try.

My misses agrees with you my friend. 😎

I'll give it a try. 🙂

Hot glue is best

You’re welcome 👍

DO NOT use this method for an aquarium! It WILL leak.

I agree! Been a dir’er for many years, never knew the liquid soap trick!

@@jimw91321 the liquid soap makes it easier to get a clean finish for sure, but it should actually be avoided. What you want is actually a caulking liquid *without* added detergent. These liquids are cheap and works just the same for applications. The big difference is, if you use a detergent on silicone based sealants, it will remove the silicon oil from the outmost layer of the bead, which means as it hardens the outer later will end up slightly more "rubbery" due to there becoming microscopic little pores in the surface. These are not visible however, but over time you will see a difference in that a silicon bead applied with detergent will be more prone to collect dust/dirt (especially visible when using white) and it will make white silicone turn a light yellow after a 8-12 months. Using the proper stuff without detergents will give you a nice smooth bead that will look the same as it did when applied 5-10 even years later.

Spit on my finger is how i’ve always done. No wonder I was always thirsty after work, might have saved my marriage using this spray bottle method.

Agreed. The masking tape method will leave a slight ridge the thickness of the tape though, so I suggest as a final step after removing the tape is to wet your finger and light swipe over the silicone one more time to smooth it perfectly.

Thanks!

You’re welcome 👍

that's exactly the way I do it and it comes out perfect.

thank you so much, so simple but helpful

Be sure to share pictures of your caulk with friends and family. 🥰

👍

Glad it was helpful!👍

Is it washing detergent for clothes or dishes that you used?

@@kristenhartleylangi5150 @billshto, I'm also curious. Which is it? I guess laundry?

@@RobertLugg dishwashing liquid

Me too, but you have to remember to spray the tool for best outcomes.

@@andrewdrummond8576 good point, will that!

@@andrewdrummond8576 spray with just water or this mixture?

You’re very welcome 👍👍👍

Damn you’re such a BOSS! I know that knowledge came from years of work. Thank you for the wisdom!

Nope, water a soap only. when you talk about solvents it degrades the caulking.

@@cchgn Is that dish soap or laundry detergent cchgn?

Take it from a real pro... you don’t need any of that crap. Just make sure your finger is clean

just dip your finger in plain water.

👍

The best method by far is wire nuts, it will create a perfect seal and very practical. You have to use the right size for the nozzle application, you will never use anything else.

@@willoughby1888 Another arrow in the quiver. I just drop the wire nut in my pocket and when I'm done caulking it's right there.

👍

Right there with you on that. Looks the business

you may have nice straight lines that look very neat and tidy but you will also have a concave bead that is extremely thin at point of contact with tile and tray/bath. This will soon lose contact from minimal cleaning and give access to water and soap and shortly to mould.

@@webmastermail8 what would you recommend?

I've done the painters tape method a couple times looks nice but never seems to last as long as it would if you didnt. I have a tool I use now that allows you to make the bead into the shape you want and scrapes up the excess

@@RennieAsh I think this is the best way and shows you how as well as explaining why. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/lap5Z8uXrbPDeJs.html

Well good luck matey because if you use this fella's method your tank will be leaking like a veg strainer

@@scoobydoo6344 absolutely

read the manufacturer's recommendations, silicone must stick both sides perfectly.

why not try the caulking sealant tool for free ?

I use my finger, then wipe my finger on the wet rag. Then lightly go over the joint with a damp sponge for final clean up. Just like you would do on grout joints. No brainer. I have found that using a rag doesn't leave a smooth surface. Everyone has their own way of doing things. Which is cool. But after decades of not using a sponge for this. I felt like a dork once I tried it. It's so easy and fast.

I was always taught to finish it with a damp rag

@@nicolaandrew7452 where do I get one

@@assog5737 , Thats exactly how I've been doing it for over twenty years. I get perfect results, and great adhesion.

You’re very welcome 👍