0:00-0.53 Introduction
0:54-2:07 Preparation of the masala
2:08-3:19 Addition of chicken into the masala
3:20-4:17 Cooking of the rice
4:18-5:15 Layering of rice over meat
5:16-8:43 Final dum style cooking of the biryani
8:44-12:43 Some details about the biryani place
12:43-19:55 Tasting
In today's episode we are out to decode the flavours and culinary secrets of Kerala famous Kuttichira biryani and for this we have come to the bustling huge kitchen of Rijin's Mess and Catering in Mananchira, Kozhikode along with our brilliant host Mazan Hamza who is a localite. Mazan is a practicing architect and food entrepreneur by profession and an avid foodie by passion, with an impeccable knowledge about his native Malabari cuisine.
On reaching the kitchen workshop we met the industrious team all set to start with the biryani preparation for the day. Being a mess cum catering service, Rijin’s caters to a wide range of customers spanning from the visitors at their mess to schools and office canteens, from parties to any other gatherings. They are so popular with the locals, that everyday they dispatch nearly 250 kg of biryani.
Here we met Naufal who runs the place and Mujeeb manages the biryani making process with a few other fellow workers. He started by preparing a wet mixture by mixing onions, ginger, garlic, yogurt and whole spices together in a huge vessel. Into this went the leghorn breed chicken pieces along with ground biryani powder and ghee. Everything was then mixed thoroughly and set aside to rest. Meanwhile, the short grain kaima rice was cleaned and set to boil in a different vessel. Although it is widely consumed in Kerala, this rice is mostly procured from West Bengal which is a foremost rice producing state. Another interesting thing about the biryani masala used in this variety of biryani is the addition of fennel that adds to its slightly sweet flavour profile.
When kaima rice was half done, it was strained and layered over the marinated chicken mixture kept in different sized both round and flat bottomed vessels along with barista or caramalised onions and fried nuts. This process was repeated twice; at the end a generous amount of ghee was poured on top and the vessels were sealed. Kuttichira biryani falls into the kacchi biryani category where the meat is not pre cooked. The interesting thing to note about this biryani preparation is the use of coconut shells. Both Thalassery and Kuttichira biryani are cooked over coconut shell flame. In fact it is a commonly used fuel in this part of the state.
In no time the place was filled with heat from the multiple heaps of coconut shells and also the enchanting aroma of the biryani that was taking shape. Naufal bhai was all vigilant about the whole cooking process and was continuously checking the smell of the steam coming out from small openings so that he can timely regulate the heat. As the shells turned into embers, they placed some of it over the lid.
When Naufal opened the lid the place was permeated with the mesmerizing aroma of Kuttichira biryani and we couldn't hold our excitement back to try it. Soon we got our serving and went to the mess area to try it. It was a busy scene over there with people coming in for lunch and workers busy packing orders. Here they also serve basic veg meal and the pricing are quite affordable.
Coming to the taste part, it was delightfully aromatic with a hint of spiciness and sweetness. The rice grains were plump and fluffy while the chicken pieces were tender yet slightly chewy. It was accompanied by date pickle and raita. Every morsel was absolutely soulful and testimony of the chef's expertise.
All thanks to Mazan, Naufal bhai and team it was a memorable affair.
About the host:
anubhavsapra.com/
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Text by Swetaleena Nayak