Thanks for watching! Hope you learned something from it!

Thank you! I hope you get better soon, i used to suffer with sciatica for many years, to the point i was nearly in a wheelchair. Not nice at all.

Thanks David, I'm enjoying making them again.

Thank you that means a lot!! Punches have been filmed and will be added soon, next one is Thursday, Everything you have mentioned is on the list to film so when i get them done i shall upload.

Thanks! Its a lot more comfortable this way.

Thank you! This is exactly what i a trying to get across to people, We don't need all the modern tools to produce the same things. Hammer, forge, anvil, vice and files/rasps are all that is needed, plus i don't have all that fancy kit yet so have to do it this way.

No problem! Thanks for taking the time to watch it!

Thank you! The rasp is one of the most under rated tools of the forge, so much can be done with them!

Thanks Again!!

Thanks Rob!

You are welcome!

That's great! I used to have the same mindset until I started using power tools for my projects. If you have them use them is now my mind set. I'm currently at a workshop with everything and soon to be leaving and going back to basics. I'm kinda dreading the thought of having to do it all by hand again.

I did 😁 I used to put smiley faces on my tools, if they ever went missing I know it's mine. And it's a lifetime tool, the next person who has it can clean it up probably with lasers 😉 I'm in the UK. Thanks for the feedback

Cheers dude!

Hi Nathan, yes i will be doing a wide range of tongs in the future. This will be a first in the series of tools needed to forge and tongs will be a big part of the series. I got my hammer from a company here in the uk, a farrier supply shop called Handmadeshoesltd its a Jim Keith shoe turning hammer although if I'm honest i wouldn't recommend them as they are expensive for what they are and a little on the soft side.

Its good to be back! The reason i flatten the body is so its easier to hold and direct when cutting, also it was how i have been taught. We get taught differently here in the UK than the rest of the world so thought id show a different approach. Glad you like the new angle, I'm trying to show how i stand at the anvil and work as it seems a lot of others stoop over to forge. Cheers Randy!

Muito obrigado! espero que você goste do conteúdo do passado e do futuro, ótimo ter você aqui!

Thank you!

Yes you are right, but i wanted to show a correction of a common forging fault, also if you knock the edges in before forging it may go to small a section, another way around it is linishing the edges and putting a bevel on then heating the core to the same temp as the outside. Please do put a link up, im sure everyone will appreciate it. Cheers Andrew!

Cheers dude! It is not that expensive, i think i pay around £40 for a 4 metre length. Furnivals do it, might be worth checking out prices.

Cheers Nath!

That's great to hear! If you use a coil spring from a truck or similar that should be ok, but from what i know, i would use oil instead of water to harden it, the temperature may be different also.

Yes it is quite a cool temp for the quench, its not black but also not orange either, Its a nice cherry red. The way i found the colour needed was to heat the same material to orange then sat it on a magnet, as soon as the magnet wanted to stick to the metal i take a mental picture in my head of the colour, so i can remember to quench just before it gets to that colour. A lot of different material will vary in colour for this stage.

Hello- this is a great concept, could you possibly show this technique with a video? Maybe grabbing some 'mystery metals' and using the magnet and spark techniques to hep roughly identify what might best be made with unknown metals?

I am no metallurgist, but something I always think of when choosing a material for a specific tool goes like this. You get hard, or tough. Hard is brittle, tough is strong. Glass Vs perspex etc. Example 1. Files - hard. Good for edged tools. Example 2. Fork lift forks - tough but wear resistant. Example 3. Leaf spring - tough, but also mildly hard, has memory, and will hold an average edge. Also good wear resistance. So think of a metal in every day use, what does it need to be to do it's job?? Not metal type but what is it being put through, is it struck, is it holding weight, is that weight centered or is it at the other end? Is it rubbing on anything? Does it need to hold up to high heat, cold temperatures? So many factors in this work. It's near impossible to write it out in a KZfaq comments section, Even a video, so hopefully this gives you enough information to think a different way and a lot of research potential. Been doing this 12 years now and still have a very basic understanding of what is what. Hope this helps a bit. Sorry for not being able to explain proper.

It will get lost, but it will also re temper often. I harden it then temper, so if it stays away from the hardening temps by keeping it cool as i work with it it will constantly temper when i quench it every 3 blows or so. so it wont get soft as its been hardened in the first place. That's my theory of it anyway. If it does get soft i just re treat it again, as i do with all my tools on an annual basis.

This wont miss shape when cooling down, its too thick. Knives on the other hand will change shape this way.

You need to keep the part moving otherwise it will develop hot & cold spots causing it to warp. Some will warp no matter what you do.

No I think it’s 1055

Samuel Filler it's the best shape for striking, it doesn't matter if you strike a bit off with the angle of the hammer, because it's domed the force still goes central if that makes sense? Another reason is to slow the mushrooming down as it has to flatten the dome before the edges roll.

No, but if you can get a railroad 'C' clip you will be in business!! I say no because as far as i am aware they are strength more than they are for hardness, But i have never seen one. But if i could get something else, i would, but thats me. What else do you have available?

Are you in the USA? If so, I will ship you one . I have 5160 leaf spring. I can purchase D2.

I am in the UK 5160 should be ok if that's what you have, just heat treat accordingly, from what i remember it is an oil quench, i may be wrong so please look it up before hand.

Still working on it, it works fine for me but i have had a few comments saying the same thing.

For a hand held hot chisel i do the curved edge so it will walk along much easier, i have no idea why they do it on hardie tools though.

Iv'e heard a blacksmith say, It's so when you're cutting along a line, you can have the chisel away from you and as you cut, you roll it hence you can follow the line on your material. That's what I heard.

curved cutting edge means tighter focus of the cutting power. straight edge divides the power of the hammer blow all along the edge, curve keeps it focused to cut deeper and faster.

It's also to keep the cutting edge away from ur hammer face so as to not mar them up

I like a curved hardy cut off . it works like an axe in that it starts cutting in a small area and spreads out. works really good.

Have a look at some of the later videos John, should be a lot better. I've still not worked out a way to reduce the shop noise but it's getting better. Thanks for the kind words

Shur happy with reduced shop noise myself and it's probably helping get attention from your younger beginners and I'm not leaving you. You are just the best teacher and instructor I've known. Thanks and I'll be back

Yes you noticed correctly, You should take this up even as a hobby with an eye like that ;) As i was going to be turning it into an 8 sided shape the squareness didn't matter too much as that is corrected in the next step, it makes it easier if you forge 4 equal sides but is not essential if the corners will be knocked off in the next step. Voice over does distract quite a bit as i have to face the mic each time i explain something.

Next Christmas you need to ask for a mic and transmitter set ^^ I'm seriously looking into it, so i haven't got much space at the moment i'm thinking of a small propane forced air forge, something home made from a party balloon gas bottle, a little smaller than a 13kg bottle, with ceramic wool and then some sort of coating with a thin fire brick on the bottom to slide the metal on and off to protect it. But part of me also like the smell and the tradition of coal.

Again, working on that for the next one as ive had a few people say this also