I completely agree. I actually come to watch his videos to calm down lol

Same

Absolutely for us guys blacksmithing would be a good retirement Hobby. For longevity we need to keep our mind active and this would be a good way to do it.

@@patlowney2834 Hopefully you get your forge built! I’m in the process and will be working on iron as soon as I recover from rotator cuff surgery. But this gives me time to plan and collect things I’ll need.

Thanks!

Ha ha... just make it happen!

As soon as I get out of the city ;)

Thanks! :)

And no rock music behind , tnx god for that :)

Thank you! Great!

Great. Glad you like them.

Thanks! Yes it has very good control, but you have to be careful, or you'll end up with something... flat...

Thanks!

Thanks. He he, it's an old relic and does it's job, but can't be compared to modern band saws.

Thanks!!

Great to hear!

What kind of steel did you use?

:) Great.

Thanks!

:) Thank you!

Not allot at all, just calculate volume! But I added some extra which I had to cut off later on making the handle.

in your Humble oppinion? ^^

I guess you could say that. I've heard countless jokes like that in my lifetime. Not complaining though.

the last time i saw a saw like that was on school

Great!

Thanks!!

Thanks Zed.

Ha ha... why does everyone think it's her oven? :)

Tack!

Great to hear and good luck!

Ha ha, tack!

Ha ha, thanks. Hopefully you will see it in real action in future videos!

Looking forward to it!!

Thanks! Maybe, I will consider that.

Thanks. No not really. A simple knife is easy to forge, and as with swords it's 90% grinding, more or less. If you disregard pattern welded blades... then it can be a very complicated forging process.

Yeah, I understand. Anyway it's not my place to tell you what to make. I was just curious. Your work is still great!

Tackar.

:) I have an old video on a hand held flatter as well! Check it out

Thanks!

For drawing out, narrow dies are preferred. The actual drawing out is done at the edges of the die. In the center the hammer pushes the material in all directions. Ideal drawing dies are slightly rounded ones which gives a direction to the force.

Thanks! He he, no I'm looking for a floor block/anvil of some kind but haven't found one yet.

I think I would go for the car axle. Definitely not the O1, it's too brittle for this type of tool. H13 would probably work but I would save it for stuff where it makes a difference, like punches,chisels or drifts.

My guess is that it's because we never really get to know Torbjörn all that much. I think many channels grow and gain subscribers because the viewers are interested in and like the person making the videos. Torbjörn's videos are all about the projects and the smithing. We don't learn a whole lot about Torbjörn himself. That being said, the quality of Torbjörn's videos and craftsmanship is so great that it has allowed us 40,000 subscribers to come along. At least that's how I see it.

Thanks Darin!

He he!

This needs to be tough... it's not an edge tool... 300C would probably be perfect, but I tested a special alloy that time if I remember right.

@@torbjornahman Tack så mycket!

It's an odd high strength construction steel... Seems to work fine, but I would recommend a medium carbon steel like 1045,4140,4340. It's 40mm in diameter.

Ok, thanks . I have lots of 1045 around here.

:)

Thanks. No, just 400 lbs

This is no precision job so any small deformation is not a problem. You can grind it flat after the heat treat.

probably high carbon, cause of the heat treatment he did ( does not work for low carbon steen )

For this kind of tool a tough medium carbon steel is preferable, like AISI 1045,4140,4340

Exactly, the flat part can conform to a angled or slanted surface on your work piece and the upper die on the hammer can hit the round part regardless of the angle.

If you want to be precise you can calculate the volume of the desired part and from that calculate what length you need of a certain starting stock.

Thanks! ;)

Well its not a flatter, its a swedish golf club ;) Already the vikings played golf like this, for sure ...

Danke!

Torbjörn Åhman danke!

I used a piece of odd high strength construction steel, but I would advice on some medium carbon steel like 1045 or 4140

@@torbjornahman Thanks for the reply. I do have a bit of 4140 available to use.

Hello! Nope just something I got interested in. I love anything creative really. Check my web-site for a short "about story".

You should look at may video - Forging a half round swage. The radius is 15mm (30mm round forged down to form the swage).

Torbjörn Åhman Yes I have seen that video. I will go with 30mm. What is your opinion of mild steel for a swage? Works but not for long? Gracias!

I think it will hold up pretty good. Try and keep your work piece hot, that will put less stress on the swage.

It's not impurities, it's iron oxide that forms around a hot piece of steel. We call it scale and is a very thin layer. When you knock off a piece of scale, a new layer is formed almost instantly in contact with the surrounding air.

Just basic dust protection. Machines, grinders and hammers all kick up allot of dust. Wen working alone it doesn't bother me much.

Also metal too like shaving get in the air and can get in the lungs just thought I would share

Thanks. The reason for welding the handle is to avoid a lose end that can lead to pinching when using the tool. You could probably forge weld the end with a short overlap but it's purely a functional thing so why make it over-complicated. Then there is the fact that certain tool steels don't like to be forge welded at all...

Nice to see a blacksmith that isn't afraid of an arc welder.

:) It's the kitchen oven, and she doesn't mind. What could happen?

As you say, you need a forge, anvil and a hammer... A basic forge is just a hole in the ground with a heavy pipe letting forced air in. A simple fan like a hair dryer or old vacuum cleaner can work to start with. A forge like this can work very well if you tune the air flow right!! Look for a used anvil on craigslist and other similar sites. A piece of railway track can be used for anvil but the real thing makes a difference. Hammers can be found on garage sales and flee markets. Try and contact other smiths in your area, there could be a local group that can help you out with equipment and information!

+Torbjörn Åhman Alright so I've saved up a good amount of money to get started soon. So is there any specific anvil I should really be looking for, like what would you say a good anvil should be made of and have on it?

8bit Cat The important thing is rebound (test with a ball bearing, should bounce up to nearly the same height you dropped from). It's nice to have a fairly flat face and a horn. Chipped edges are not that bad. You can grind them round. New anvils are very expensive, and I don't recommend buying a new one just starting out.

+Torbjörn Åhman Well I don't know of a place I can buy them around where I live, so it's a big possibility that I might have to buy one from the Internet. Is there any other way I will be able to tell if it's a good quality anvil?

8bit Cat Not really... but there are more reliable brands I assume.

Thanks! I'll keep that in mind!

I use linseed oil for the most part. I also use a mixture of beeswax/linseed oil/turpentine (applied cold).

Any advice on applying the oil? Which temperature should the iron be? Any in which cases do you choose the other combination (oil-wax-turpentine)? Thanks for the quick replies!

If you want the raw steel look, you can use wax or oil, but linseed oil takes a while to cure, at least a day or two. The wax is rubbed on and you're more or less done. If you want a black finish you heat the metal to around 300C I think. The oil should smoke and turn black but not burn off. Ironwork for outdoor use really needs something else than wax or oil if you want the surface to remain intact, then you have to use paint.

I usually make sure I get a good temper in the oven. In this case I have already tempered the handle/tool transition in the forge but the actual tool needs a consistent temper as well.

No, if I remember right it was 1045. Any medium carbon steel will work fine.

Thanks... yes a tool to make a tool to make another tool :)

+Torbjörn Åhman it all had to start somewhere, but whitch was first, the chicken or the egg? I just cant remember.

Phoenix He he, neither I would say... evolution, progression in small steps.

I will consider that! A simple hand chisel or a handled one?

+Torbjörn Åhman Just simple hand chisel I think.Or both if you can :)

That would work nicely, but I used a piece of an odd high strength steel, something along the lines of S460Q (no 1.8908). It's used for chain and lifting hooks.