This is only an issue in very tightly sealed homes, such as a manufactured home (which is why outside air kits are required in manufactured homes). Most homes have enough air leakage that it's not an issue. The fact that you are saying that the stove "sucks heated air" indicates that the stove is heating the air in the home, so it's doing it's job, but a fire requires air to burn. That air has to come from somewhere. Some folks choose to leave a window cracked slightly, but the outside air kit is a very cost effective solution if this is an issue in your home, or if you just prefer that combustion air come from outside.

We just leave our front door ever so slightly cracked

This is America. Make more money.

Never use money to check the gasket. Use plain paper about the size of a dollar bill. First time I used a dollar. I pulled on it and it tore in half!

It will deliver around 15,000 Btu's, depending on your install and the wood you use. This is enough energy to keep a mid sized home at a reasonable temperature when it is delivered constantly and evenly like a Blaze King does.

They make good stoves for sure. But then, here we are on the Blaze King site.

@@blazeking9819 I understand. Owned a BlazeKing now for a while and have not been happy. My dealer stopped responding and the next closest says I’m too far. Not really sure what to do at this point… I guess I’ll live with it… didn’t have these issues with my Quad’s is all. Thanks for responding.

@@3wrapframe Sorry to hear this. we pride ourselves that we make a very good reliable product and are always there to help when someone is not happy. Can you fill out the contact form on our web site. This will give me your contact details. Reference this KZfaq conversation and I will see it. Hopefully we can get you some assistance.

@@blazeking9819 chatted a ton with Francisco already and that dried up too. Unfortunately his suggestions went unheard from the dealer. I see they installed different from Blazekings recommendations as well that were mentioned in this video. Lots going on here.

@@3wrapframe Again sorry top hear this.

Check that exhaust chimney is well insulated. As exhaust cools down, creosote forms.

Clean the converter with crappy wood I mite do it once a week in my progress hybrid. I have two converters one in stove one out ready n clean ..

I've been using a Blaze King for 13 years now. At first I did not like the stove at all, but once I realized that I could not burn the same wood as my previous wood stoves I've come to love it. Most creosote issues come from moisture, I would suggest burning a load of dry 2x4s to confirm your meter is working properly. Burn on highest setting for 20 minutes after by-pass is closed then set thermostat to a level that the flames go out and your fire just smolders. Your temperature gauge should spike and the convertor should start to glow. Hopefully, there will be less creosote and this will confirm your issue is your wood source. good luck.

We have had a Princess since 2004. Love this stove. We honestly tell folks it is the best thing we ever bought! We burn exclusively pine aged about a year. Sometimes we burn wood cut in the spring and burned in the fall in the same year. I couldn't tell you the moisture content, I've never checked it. We clean the chimney once a year and get a couple cups of flaky soot. Tarry creosote has not been an issue at all. I would suggest that you make sure the fire is good and hot before turning it down. After adding wood, we generally make sure that the needle on the catalyst thermometer is at least at 3 o'clock (visualizing the thermometer as a clock face) before turning it down. Then we turn it down about 25%, wait another 10 minutes or so, and then turn it to half (or a little lower if we are going to bed or leaving for the day). Our burns are around 12-14 hours. We have replaced the catalyst once since 2004. It wasn't even dirty, but had a few cracks and burn times were getting a little shorter. Other than that we don't even worry about it. I don't look at it, clean it or do anything with it. I empty ash at the end of the burn season, and burn constantly from early November through around April First. It is our only heat source that we use. We go through about 3 cords of wood a year give or take. One last thing. Our chimney is 14 feet, straight up, double walled pipe. Any bends in your pipe, or not enough pipe, or nearby objects (such as the peak of your roof, trees etc.) could affect draft, as could single walled pipe that may be cooling too quickly.

donald dietrich only cord wood

Try this video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fsp7ipRj2t3Xqqc.html

The most valuable portion of the vid is at 6:45. It devotes (s) about 1:00 to a crucial topic: air supply to firebox. Spoiler Alert: without a dedicated supply pipe which channels outside air to your stove, you are simply using already-heated interior air to power your combustion and create a huge current of air from every leak in the home’s “envelope”…right up your chimney. Been there…done that.

Especially with cottonwood that we use!

I burn pine, usually 6 months to a year old. I start my fire in early November and it doesn't normally go out until early April. I'm guessing about 3 cords, give or take (my guy doesn't deal in cords, he deals in "loads", and I don't stack it..he just dumps it in the yard) I empty the ash at the end of the season. I couldn't empty ash during the burn season if I wanted. The fire doesn't go out. Burned properly this stove burns down to a very fine ash. There's maybe three or four inches of ash on the bottom when I empty it in the spring. I have had my Princess since 2004.