Blichmann BrewEasy Demonstration

Рет қаралды 133,863

10 жыл бұрын

Wes from Great Fermentations gives an overview of the Blichmann BrewEasy including the various components, how to set it up, and ultimately how to brew with the BrewEasy.
Now available in a gas (propane/nat. gas) powered and electric version!
Gas: shop.greatfermentations.com/pr...
Electric: shop.greatfermentations.com/pr...
We've got the BrewEasy setup on concrete blocks which makes it look considerably taller than it actually is. This is not required, it's just how our brewery is setup. Our 5 gallon system only measures a short 44 inches tall once assembled.
To purchase the BrewEasy system, head on over to our website using the URL above. We sell the all-in-one turnkey system, or if you have existing components you can piece it together. Turnkey system is currently only available in gas, but Blichmann will be releasing an electric version in the near future. Check back at the same URL for details.
NOTE: This video shows the BrewEasy system with the G1 style BoilerMaker brew pots. All new BrewEasy systems purchased will have the newer G2 brew pots!
shop.greatfermentations.com/pr...

Пікірлер: 21

@stanlindert6332 8 жыл бұрын

Brew in a bag seems so much easier, and cheaper. The boil pot + the awesome Blichmann burner= easy brewing. Oh you need some bags.

@adamreed7003 10 жыл бұрын

So it's some what like a Brutus 2.0 only the kettles are stacked. Awesome idea. It made me realize I can do this with the gear I already have. I had definitely not thought about trying this. I will next brew day though.

@dimash244 5 жыл бұрын

my exact thought!

@ZmannR2 4 жыл бұрын

So did you?

@willschmit436 8 жыл бұрын

People ask if the strike water should be brought to temperature first. I run my system without grain until the system gets up to my acid rest temp (usually 99 degrees F). I turn off the pump until the mash tun drains to below the point where the Autosparge touches the 99 degree water, I dough-in (gently lifting the autosparge until it is complete. Then I turn the pump back on, and continue the acid rest. Most modern malts do not require an acid rest, but I always include 20 minutes to settle the bed, and hydrate the malt. The autosparge and the orifice keeps the flow constant at .75 gallons per minute, while I step through the steps of the mash. Some times, I just go from acid to protein to beta to alpha in 10 minutes. I always step mash. I hold it at the appropriate temps and times based upon the style and the recipe. I don't use a tower of power -- I use a 2" RIMS Tube from Brewers Hardware, and a homebrew Arduino control panel. All of the temperatures downwind of the RIMS are assumed to be accurate, because it is constantly being replaced (at a rate that matches the orifice)...

@electricbadgercollc8146 6 жыл бұрын

How do you design the most cumbersome and expensive home brewing system?...the answer is in the video above.

@steventrott8714 5 жыл бұрын

I was confused at first too. But after a few uses, I found its really easy and quick way to brew. Week night brews are easy to tackle.

@Shawnmarsh2 10 жыл бұрын

What is the point of the rubber orifice in the drain tube if you have a ball valve? Could you just leave that out and throttle the ball valve for more control? If the flow rate is wrong with the orifice, it seems like a whole lot more work to switch it out than to turn the ball valve up/down. Am I missing something? Good video, and otherwise looks like a great system. Thanks for posting this!

@greatfermentations 10 жыл бұрын

Shawn - Thanks for the question! The point of the orifice is so you can set a specific flow rate for your recirculation. With the orifice installed, you simply can open the ball valve all the way and know that you're getting a specific flow rate. Without it, you would really just be guessing on what your rate is based on how open you have the ball valve, which can be challenging. The flip side of this (as you pointed out) is that its kind of hard to adjust flow rate mid-mash with the orifice. Just plan ahead on what you want it to be, and you're all good. Cheers!

@roncruiser 9 жыл бұрын

I am not sure, so, I'll ask here. 1.Shouldn't the water be brought up to strike temperature first before adding the grain to the mashtun? 2.During the mash, which temp gauge should I be monitoring? The bottom temp gauge, which is the temp of the liquid going into the mashtun, or the top temp gauge, which is the temp of the grain during the mashing process. I ask because I plan to do this manually with no help from a Tower of Power temp control. Thanks! Ron

@greatfermentations 9 жыл бұрын

roncruiser - Sorry for the delayed response! Yes, the water should be brought up to strike temp before adding the grain. We have found that it is easier to heat ALL your water in the bottom, and then recirculating the water needed up to the mash tun. It just makes for a quicker initial heat time. In terms of temp gauge to monitor for doing it manually, the best to watch would be the one for the mash tun (top). Cheers! Bryan

@wayneman42 6 жыл бұрын

Do you have to have a separate kettle for sparge water and do you already have to have the sparge water preheated

@BrettSeymour 4 жыл бұрын

I'm pretty sure you don't sparge with this system.

@beerman1957 10 жыл бұрын

Can you make a 5 gallon batch with the 10 gallon system? I have a 15 gallon Blichmann and would like to eventually brew 10 gallons, but not every time I brew.

@greatfermentations 9 жыл бұрын

beerman1957 - Sorry for the delayed response! Yes, you can do a 5 gallon batch with the 10 gallon system, but you'll need to make some adjustments. You grain bed will be a bit shallower, and your boil off rate will be higher. So the answer is yes, but you'll just have to dial things in over a few brews to get it where you want it to be. Cheers! Bryan

@the4thj 7 жыл бұрын

THIS MAKES MY HEAD SPIN!!! AARRGH!

@fdk7014 6 жыл бұрын

So you don't sparge with fresh water, only recirculating the wort? That means you are leaving a bunch of sugars left in the grain leading to low efficiency. Doesn't sound very good to me.

@greatfermentations 5 жыл бұрын

FDK - Yes, efficiency suffers a bit with the BrewEasy. What I tell everyone though is that you can make that up with a few pounds of more grain, which costs maybe $4-$5. That vs 45 minutes to an hour for a sparge. The question you have to ask yourself is whether or not your time is worth more than the extra money you spend on the grain to make up for lower efficiency. You save on the BrewEasy though since you are only purchasing two kettles vs 3 as well! Cheers! Bryan