I agree.Good video but that music was very annoying while trying to listen to Larry.

aha, I had to pause the video, I thought I had another tab with a video playing.

shroudedunity , you sir are correct! I’m interested in what Mr Potterfield has to say; not listening to weird Serengeti music.

ill never understand why they do this crap. beta move

Kung-Fu music.....Be quiet grasshopper...

@@clems6989 kung-fu music?! No.. this was African tribal music. I felt like the lion king was on somewhere... That or FernGully..

I agree. Other (how to) sites often give a parts & tool lists. It saves on the guess work & I would think help with sales.

You would wind up with stacking tolerances. If you notice how the tools are fixtured and the order of operations, each step relies on the previous one being "true". The receiver is squared in a lathe because not only is it the step in the process that contributes most to accuracy, but it being perfectly square is the linchpin of the entire process with the entire toolset. Any time you're using things like bushings, pilots, and guides, there are clearances required by default. Any type of "slop" would directly translate to possibly trueing the receiver face at a slight angle, and this error would be carried over to the subsequent steps. All that being said, now that I think about it, there IS a way to achieve what I believe would be an accurate result- using something with a "flat face" as you described, but in the form of a carbide cutter or diamond-impregnated disc, with a pilot, with a small beveled section near the pilot shaft to cut a VERY SMALL reverse bevel/crown on the inside edge of the receiver face- this would cut a slight bevel on the inside right when you started cutting, and would self-center your cutter and hold it flat on the face-or at least hold it flat enough that it should not be an issue. As a side note, the reason I stayed away from lapping compound as you described is two-fold... First, lapping is for mating two surfaces to EACH OTHER. It's not the process that you would use for trusting or correcting one surface. The reason why is that 1) you'd be wearing your tool as well. Over time, it would lose it's flatness, and this would then carry over to subsequent jobs, and 2) Lapping by design has a small gap between the two surfaces that is filled with an abrasive, and this again offers the opportunity to introduce an offset- slightly more pressure on one side or getting unlucky with the exact grain sizes in the compound would mess up the job... Lapping is the process used when the primary focus is to refine the quality of the fit between two surfaces. Face cutting is for when the goal is to make something straight or square. The bolt lugs get lapped to the receiver to improve the "repeatability" of the bolt going into lockup, which translates to exactly the same headspace every time, which means more repeatability, i.e. accuracy. The receiver face is in essence being squared to the bolt face centerline, so that when the barrel is installed, IT is perfectly in line with the same. Again, results in increased accuracy (if the barrel is off-center compared to the bolt face, it results in all sorts of wonky stuff, but that would be a LOT of typing) I hope this explains the why and how for you, sir. Happy shooting!

@@98integraGSR I've seen a lapping tool used to true up the face of AR uppers prior to the barrel install. Couldn't something like this be used with the bushings to square it up and only make contact with the face of the receiver?

You must be high. That music is awesome just look at the like to dislike ratio.

Layout fluid

Dychem, layout dye, used in machine shops and metal layout.

For real. This music is my ringtone. I brush my teeth to this song.

The Piloted reamer cleans the top portion of the threads. The lower side of the thread, where the barrel threads hold onto are un-touched. The re-threading tap just cleans up the threads, especially the top portion that was squared down a bit. It will not oversize the pitch. Unless you really screw it up. The barrel should fit just the same, and hold torque just as good. Although it would be best to make sure the barrel is completely true centered for best accuracy.

densedrummer and how would you make sure it is 'completely true centered'?

BloodSteed The barrel chamber and bore need to be exact centered to the outer cut of the threads to allow for the best accuracy. If it is even slightly off, the action will not be true to the round in the chamber. A micrometer measurement around the center of the fire end of the barrel in several places to check thickness to verify that it isn't off center, and also on the chamber side. There are special tools and machines that can check this to a very, very accurate measurement. But this is a good starting point, without spending a ton of money. Basically, you just want to be sure that the hole for the cartridge is exactly in the middle, creating a perfect center firing pin strike.

densedrummer cool, thanks for the info

If it will fit between your chuck and live center and spins freely, it should. I have not measured the length of the rod but I think it will fit. Those smaller cheaper lathes are not the greatest but may work in a pinch, they are mainly for the weekend hobbyist.

Brownells.

when the barrel gets put on

100% but the truth is it might not make one bit of difference in accuracy so don't tear your gun apart unless your planning on making a bench rest rifle.

You can buy a lathe that'll fit the action for like $1400. buy no there isn't really any other way to do it except with a really good machinist quality mill

+mojo jojo You only need the lathe for one part of the whole process. I'm sure you could do the rest and pay a machinist or gunsmith to square the receiver face

Actually you can just use a face squaring mill bit with a cutting face bigger than the front of the action and a shaft that fits the bushings and you just chuck it into a drill from the rear of the action and pull back as you cut. Boom instant true.

DeusVult! Headspacing is done when you reset the barrel.