SHAZZAM!!! The only luthier to mention tension vs no tension measurements! This man knows what he's talking about! I also love the banter back and forth with the camera man! 😊

Hey; I do complex guitar work for a lot of famous guys. I watch youtube stuff on occasion to see if I can pick up new tricks. Your video is well- explained and thorough. That's refreshing. It'll help a lot of budding repair people. Thanks.

Thank you, John, for sharing your time and expertise. Your assessment method at the beginning is great. Thanks for uploading, Glenn. "The noblest pleasure is the joy of understanding". (L. da Vinci)

Alls I know is your the real deal.I have learned a lot from you .thanks so much.

Thank you for that information!! That technique for seeing if a neck reset was needed or not was something I really needed to understand!! Let's face it: if you own a steel string guitar long enough, you'll eventually need a neck reset. But at least I'll now know when it's time to do it.

Excellent video! You do an awesome job at sharing your expertise. Very much appreciated.

Thank you so much for your videos. I finally decided to take apart my first guitar: Yamaha FG150 and reset the neck, plus many other improvements! Your videos really helped a newbie like me! -J.G.

Best explanation I’ve seen. Thank you.

Your tip about using an icing spatula to lift the fingerboard extension is right on the money. I just successfully removed the neck from a cheap chinese guitar that I'm converting to a resonator for a friend, and rocking the round end icing spatula to release the glue worked like a champ. Thanks mucho. Here's a tip to trade. I clamped a couple of 10" wooden parallel jaw clamps onto the box aligned with the neck, then bridged across the tops of them with a short piece of 1" square aluminum tubing, and then I used a medium size F clamp on the heel cap and the top of the aluminum bar. Boom! Instant neck press that didn't cost $100.

Awesome vid

This video made me do the mummers strut when it was done

Nice video!!!!!!!!!!!! Hardly any good neck set videos out there with competent explanations. Thank you so much for posting this!!!!!!! John Arnold is not too far from my area. I've never met him, but a friend of mine took my 46 D-18 to him. Someone had refinished the entire guitar with paint lacquer many years ago & destroyed the guitar. As it's collectable value was more than cut in half, I decided to use 0000 steel wool & try to salvage what I could. I was young & dumb & I ended up sanding to bare wood in a couple quarter sized spots. John refinished those spots & matched the finish exactly. You couldn't tell where one started & the other stopped. I've seen a lot of his work & it's always been top notch!!!! He knows what he's doing!!!! Great video!!!!!!!

I have a question and would appreciate any imput...i have a 2001 Martin D41 and a 1996 martin D42 both play great both necks have perfect relief and the action is well within specs with original untouched saddles...my concern is both guitars have a small gap between the heel of the neck and the body of the guitar (enough to slide in a business card) and or thoughts... I've heard this is quite normal as martin leaves this area unglued

Dear Glen do you show how to reset an acoustic guitar neck from right to left looking from the lower bout towards the head stock mine drifts to the right about a 1/16 of an inch. thank you.

It can be done without steam but requires electricity, i'm sure Glen is familiar with the method, however it's not an exact science just yet and kits are being worked on for Luthiers workshops. I use the steam method but as soon as these kits become available i shall continue with the steam. One of the master has a parts list on his website but he wants a Patreon contribution for the list and method. I have seen it done and it's impressive, no risk of scalding any finish on the guitar.

thanks John.

Thank's a lot , for my FG180 Yamaha is there something to know more ?

Where do you get that little heating blanket from? It’s gotta be a better price than the stewmac iron ($85....seriously....) and it’s clearly a better solution than “my protect the top, hit it with the heat gun” method

Is it an issue that you should be worried off?

Whatever happened to the metal truss rod in the neck? We never see that come out or go back in. What holds it in at the head end, and how do you get it out?

Hi liked the vid I have a question for you, I am riding around Thailand on my motorbike and need a travel guitar I can't afford a furch little Jane so I'm toying with the idea of buying a cheap guitar locally and using your technique of removing the neck and then inserting bolts to make it detachable for traveling just wondered if you think this is feasible or should I abandon the idea, bearing in mind I don't need a professional instrument, just something to bash out a few songs, it doesn't have to look pretty just useable

I wondered if I can have opinions of what is a reasonable charge that a neck reset should be and what it should not be? I brought a 1996 Martin DM to a repair shop yesterday to have it looked at. From early on the guitar had a problem and I brought it to Martin in Nazareth a few months after buying it. They put on the repair invoice "Straightened uneven neck" and adjusted action. Lately, it has been downright painful to play so the man that looked at it yesterday (He is authorized to work on Martin) found the truss rod cannot be moved anymore (very tight he termed) and the action is high and saddle lower than original. He is keeping it with him to contact Martin but unfortunately, it may not be this week for I think they shut down for the holiday. He said if it is deemed a structural problem Martin may cover the repair under warranty. My questions are Does anyone out there have experience dealing with Martin as far as warranty and if Martin was to not cover it what is your opinions on what a reset should cost and if worth it. I believe this was the last or second to last Martin to be made in Nazareth for under $1000. Any and all thoughts are appreciated. Signing off for now.

At about 18:55 in the video, you mention cloudiness in the finish not being a big deal. What would be a solution to the cloudiness?

Entertaining video but the adjustable neck isn’t what I was hoping for. Looking for info on a dovetail reset.

You said you were at 2 or 3 after setting the relief to .005". Is that 2 or 3 referring to x/64"?

Heighth?

i'd use the heatstick from stewmac over steam, which is unpredictable, potentially damaging, and the temperature can't be controlled like a soldering iron

Saddle height 0.180" is 4.5mm, is that correct? Did you mean 0.80"

10 minutes in and i gotta say the detail in this is amazing, thank you...

String height at 12th fret: "Right at 3 and right at 2, so that's perfect." 3 what? 2 what? What system of measurement are you using?

btw thats not a souldering iron, it's a woodburner lol. I have the same one.

Informative video, but watching him repeatedly slap that metal straightedge down on the frets of that D42 really stressed me out.

8/64ths?!?! You mean 1/8th?

again wheres the interior truss rod

EKO Ranger are easy resets, the necks are bolt on.

Electric heat is by far the better way to do this .steam will mar the finish. Never on the pickguard.

The problem I have with what your saying here is you're suppose to set the straight edge on the fretboard not the frets. Make the neck flat using the trussrod. Your frets may not be level. First step tune to pitch then set relief then check nut height then check action. If action is too high then take the straightedge you're using & see if the straight edge kiss the top of the bridge if it's hitting the bridge you have other options. Shave the bridge then the saddle. A neck reset is expensive & is never the first option.

I love this video, it's very informative, but I am really worried you are going to burn the hell out of yourself with that steam.

why on earth do acoustics not have adjustable saddles and bridges?.....for intonation, action etc....it just doesn't make sense not to have that......weird.

Sorry but the string brake angle is critical.

15th like