Just bought a 1993 K75 with 27k miles. A friend passed away and I got it from his widow. I know no nothing about it. The oil looks very clean and it starts right up. No BMW dealer in my town. Any advice on what I should do for maintenance?

That's good advice but the service interval is 20,000 miles. At the rate I ride now that's in ten years time! I usually clean it out every year.

This is what IV been telling people for ages the S model is hands down the best K75 model to get your hands on and in Red

Well done for restoring a great bike. You should look at BMW-K motorcycles K1 k75 k100 k1100 (purists) Facebook page for help and resources. The files section has a lot of original tech notes.

Thank you. I have produced quite a few videos on the K75 on basic and slightly more advanced maintenance. One of the great things about it is that you can fix nearly everything using the bike tool kit. Be sure to make sure the driveshaft splines are greased with white paste.kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hdRplpV6udqslZ8.html and do a major service if it needs it. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/br-PqteqsczUmWg.html

Sounds like great bike. Regular rides and regular maintenance and they will go forever. Weather, salt and crashes have caused most of my maintenance.

@@johnnysevengun no salt no crashes lots of love

Good extra advice. Thanks very much.

Well the bike is nearly 33 and I've ridden it for 20 years - the first 13 years nearly every working day in all weathers. It still starts first time every time.

The way you maintain the bike is top-notch. I can learn from you 😁

Thanks very much. I am glad its useful.

There is some great advice there. Thanks very much.

How do you remove and mount the tires? What about balancing?

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hdRplpV6udqslZ8.html

@@johnnysevengun That's exactly the paste I use. Its nice and sticky and has a lesser tendency to be flung up the center of the driveshaft than other brands. Although it still happens, just not quite so quickly.

Can't fault the power and handling but they are heavy bikes to move around in the garage.

That's right. The engine was a PSA-Renault X-Type engine from a Peugeot 104. The bike is really a car with two wheels. If looked after and rode often they are fantastically reliable. I have been riding mine for 22 years (85000 miles) without splitting the engine or even looking at the valves. Modern bikes like Triumph, BSA, Royal Enfield have only just caught up with this water cooled technology. I did a video on greasing the splines as well as a few others on basic maintenance. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hdRplpV6udqslZ8.html

hmmm, maybe only the crank, conrods and pistons, the idea, lol. it's a DOHC engine and the Peugeot 104 was not and later even 16 vales for k100 and k1100. the Peugeot has the started motor where the bmw has the oil sump. But long time ago, more than 20 years ago, i heard the Rotax makes engines for BMW. the K100 used fuel injection from a 3 series car in 1982!

The prototype / proof of concept used a Peugeot 104 engine. Production models used BMW's own design.

Well done for bringing another K back to life. A bike that has been left for 13 years even in dry store is going to have lots of age related corrosion and rubber splits. I haven't touched the engine on mine and it s done around 90.000 miles now. If its sounds right don't mess with it. Change the oils regularly and the water every 3 or 4 years and it should go forever.

Concept Symetry Guitars z

Thanks. The K100 is a great bike but the K75 is much smoother to ride.

@@johnnysevengun A lot of people say that, a few says it's not that big of a deal, I think I'd like the extra oomph. I"m 60 years old, so it's not for racing purposes, just that extra torque.

@@svendtveskg5719 The K100 has 90hp against the K75's 74hp. Its the foot numbing vibration that people don't like but the power is great!

@@johnnysevengun Ok, the vibration stuff doesn't sound good! I'l try to find some comparisons online. Hope they will be as clear and thorough as yours. :)

So what did you buy?!

This great advice as a Toyota Filter is about £2.50 and a OEM one about £11.50.

Sounds like a sticking throttle cable or lack of return on the throttle body springs.

That is low mileage but the price would depend on what model (base, S etc) and how well it has been kept. Makes sure it starts and runs evenly. Check all the rubber components as they rot and perish. Check all the electrics work - lights, side stand switch if it has one, instrument panel. If you are going to ride it make sure the tires are good. Also nothing should leak and the brakes must be firm. Good luck.

Great bikes. Ironically the stripped version is slightly faster than the S model because the fairings weigh a ton. I did a video about putting a belly pan on mine and was surprised how heavy it was. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mK2Xl6hiy663kn0.html

@@johnnysevengun Yes high quality fibreglass. But there wasn't that much of it on the 750 Sport, certainly not compared to the RT which was quite a heavy beast. So I think the slight acceleration difference might also have been that the S had slightly higher gearing as befitted its higher top speed. It also had a disk rear brake, rather than the drum on the roadster version.

This video may interest you then. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nLF5ea2DpprOdKM.html

Something that isn't obvious - check the pilot light! It's also connected to the BMU (bulb monitor unit).

The rear brake switch is just under the footpeg attached to the foot lever and is a black housing with silver switch plate. Make sure all the connections in the loom are clean. Also clean the bulb holders for the rear brake and rear running light as they are both connected to the dash light. Check both of them work independantly. If cleaning everything and replacing bulbs does not work it may be that the wiring in the ignition pod has broken up (this is what happened to me). You can take it apart to check for corrosion. Failing all that the bulb monitoring unit under the seat in the fuse box may have failed. It is a long rectangular one against the RHS frame bar.

The tank cap and seal is checked on the MOT and if damaged will fail. The paralever looks cool but is no better than than the original cardan swingarm. I had a K1100LT for a while and could detect no difference. I still see people lift the bike on the stand without using the handle - painful!

@@johnnysevengun wel, you might not notice it dominantly, but the brake caliber is fixed on the single swing arm, braking will pull the bike down a tiny bit also the cardan axle inside has a effect and pushing you up a tiny bit. that was what i noticed when i was a kid looking at people riding a old R../5 /6 motorcycle. it's physics. but you only use 30% of brake. : ) The telelever doesn't butch at al, you don't dive while braking. only when you walk the bike it will butch a bit when playing with the brake. it was older man who used to own a motorcycle shop and it was the first thing he told about BMW motorrad and indeed it's a lot easier. seams logical they check tankcaps.

The handlebars are the original BMW ones for the 1987 K75. The drop bars shown are from a 1970's Yamaha RD250 made by Magura.

It is for easily lifting the bike onto its centre stand.

I am in the east of England and we probably get less rain than most of the UK. However there is a lot of moisture as you say. The real killer though is road salt in the winter - that eats everything really quick. When I was riding everyday I used to hose off the bike with clean water when I got back and keep the bike warm with an oil filled radiator.

When cranking they generate about 20000V. You only need a cracked insulator, some moisture or oil to allow it to track. That is why they have covers. I had an old Yamaha that would track to the frame in the rain - you don't half know about it.

@@johnnysevengun Wow i guess if it stays clean then you are good? Also mine come without covers from the factory. Thanks for the info!

Then don't worry about it. If it does decide to leak, in my experience they go at the bottom where the semi-circular bracket holds the radiator to the bottom of the frame rails. It starts as a mark on the bottom of the radiator and the front of the engine where the coolant leaks out and evaporates. If it's a very slow/small leak, throw in the recommended amount of Radweld and forget about it. I ran one radiator for around 30,000 miles like that before finally deciding I really ought to change it.

If is does leak it will be from the bottom RHS corner as you look from the front. Unless there is damage or a lack of cooling from the fan it should just keep working. When you do a coolant change wash it through with clean water for a couple of minutes from a hose. Only use distilled water and aintifreeze when refilling.

This is good advice.

Assuming you will look at everything I put in the video I always look for how clean the bike is. Lift the seat up and look for dirt, rust, oil etc. Look right underneath the bike at the clutch assembly to make sure nothing is leaking. Look carefully at all the switches, lights and electrical connections you can see to make sure they are clean. These bikes suffer from poor connections when they get old. Start the bike up from cold and let it run for five minutes watching for smoke from the manifold joints. On the main stand the back wheel should gently go round. Check the clutch biting point by putting it in gear. If you are going to ride it make sure the brakes are really sharp and the front forks rebound. Bounce the rear shock too. Good luck.

Concept Symetry Guitars Thank you very kind of you replying to my msg with such a great information

Concept Symetry Guitars Hi I went to have a look bike this morning there is leak at clutch assembly on right is it a major issue with these bikes and how to much it cost to replace. Thanks

@@the-EpicGamerX If the leak is from the clutch lever boot near the back tire then it is an easy fix costing about £20. If it is coming out of the casing than it will need a clutch rebuild with new seals. If the clutch is contaminated then you are looking at hundred of pounds of work.

Concept Symetry Guitars Cool no worries thanks I m also looking intok100 also any recommendations?

It can be . Usually the hall effect sensor plays up as the engine gets hot. Bad idling can also be due to splits in the rubber hoses or a blocked air filter or setting it too low with the idling screw.

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new on the interwebs here. turned out intermittent stalling at idle was due to corroded/broken wire at plug on alternator. great comprehensive vid.

@@mistermang5841 One of the things I always point out is the electrical failures due to corrosion in the wiring. Difficult to trace because the loom is really complicated. Well done for finding out what it was.

It is only necessary to grease the splines every 60000 miles. Thom Hellebrekers now sells remanufactured drive shafts. You might like this video. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hdRplpV6udqslZ8.html

I think the quality is much poorer than the original issue. The first one lasted nearly 30 years. The split one in this video not even five.

@@johnnysevengun I used the Ks mainly for courier work so I guess it was inevitable that any weak spots would be found out quickly

Like all bikes, there are good ones and bad ones. If you go on the Facebook groups you will find basket cases that have been completely revived as well as some amazing bargains. They have the advantage in that they are easy to fix and now all the parts are readily available from Motobins, Motorworks and Thom Hellbrekers. Mine is a 1987 model and still going like a train.

I've had bikes since I was 17 (40 years now) and I bought this bike in AD2000. At that time I joined the BMW Club of Great Britain who had a great newsletter full of advice and technical tips. As the internet grew the advice was transferred to the net. I also have a Haynes and Clymer manual which are full of great advice. Most of the things which happened were known faults that develop with heavy use and fair wear and tear. Nowadays the bikes are old - mine is 32 now and the faults are due to failure of the materials the bikes are made of and just need replacing with new ones. Motobins and Motorworks in the UK are great firms with lots of knowledge and an endless selection of parts. I am also in several Facebook groups where help is just a click away.

@@johnnysevengun Wauw that's awesome thanks for sharing. I myself are from across the channel to the East and I see lots of BMW k75 bikes online for just €1000 which has me kind of sceptical. Now at least thanks to you and your video I know what to look for when I finally go out to check one out. Only reason I want a BMW is because I like that they are European and have a amazing history and character. And my uncle has always ridden a BMW, and now after 45 years he has finally permitted himself to buy his first *new* motorcycle which is a BMW R1200RS even tho he makes well enough money, but he is a true Dutchy to never buy something new when you can still fix your old stuff. And flip every coin even tho he has so much money on the bank that h| is barely saving money still because that which he adds to his account each year also goes away again because of the 5% tax. So that is why he has finally cut the knot and bought something new... Where has this story gone idk. Good night fellow Europeans.

@@JustinMaderify Have look at these advices. Very thorough and indeed helpful on all sorts of topics: www.motobins.co.uk/hints Search startpage for "flying brick" for user fora. The Germans has some as well.. Safe riding ✌

Video on greasing the splines kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hdRplpV6udqslZ8.html

Ditto mate. Gotcha.

100/90 R18? Most bicycles are R24.

Looks so skinny in the video, I have a k100 RS myself

Nice bike. Doesn't it have an R17 front wheel - even smaller!

Good call. In the future the chopped bikes will be worth nothing.

What do you mean? Reference what?

I am not sure what you mean? Do you mean by year or by component? By year practically nothing as I only do about a 1000 miles. Service parts are cheap and secondhand parts too. Some parts are ridiculously expensive like over £500 for the oil/water pump. The electronic parts are really expensive new like £150 for the fuel pump wiring loom. It pays to shop around but don't but ebay pattern parts as they are always fakes.

@@johnnysevengun I meant like overall on that bike what was your maintenance cost for the parts you were breaking down, because some you did mention the price and some you did not. and if not ebay or trusted ebay seller where do you shop at online ? getting a k75s this weekend for 900 from a proper family that took care of it, the latest in the family got the bike and now has to be sent of for the airforce and bike is in perfect condition and does not leak, what should i be looking for and tips?

@@kavintruong1106 If you are in the UK buy your parts from Motobins, Motorworks or James Sherlock. All top suppliers of genuine parts and good quality pattern parts like discs and fork stanchions.

@@johnnysevengun I just fitted a YSS monoshock for 100 GBP. Also saw pattern fuel pump as low as 15 GBP.

@@bryanearthloop2403 The YSS shocks have a good reputation - the cheap pumps not so much.

85000 miles, several bad crashes, attack by road salt, 35 years old and still caning it.

Me too!

4.6?

A lot of riders go for Metzeler Lasertecs. I have always had Bridgestone Battlax on both my BMW K75 and Triumph Bonneville. They cost about the same.