Thanks for your info 👍🏻👍🏻

I replaced the brake fluid and the brake pads just a while before this 'problem' started to show up. Ofcourse used my GS911, to flush out the old brake fluid from the ABS modulator.

@@TheOldMechanic I would imagine that disabling the ABS does not make pulsations go away. I do not think it's the ABS. That's not to say that pulsations are never caused by ABS or problems with it. Just, in your case, having seen your troubleshooting, I thinks alignment is most likely issue: Occum's razor kinda thing maybe.

@@MillerMountain70 Hi, When I had my Kawasaki ZZR 1100, I had a bend frontdisk, and while starting to read more about brake disk problems in general I stumbled upon a mechanic who said, that sometimes something goes wrong with the iron melting process, and that sort of makes a disk becomes, more or less 'slippery' at certain points on the disk.. Have you ever heared about that ?

It's really important to follow torque specs when installing the disc to ensure correct float. As an aside, my bike was never tracking straight with hand off the bars, I re-torqued fork bolts and front axle and it is now straight as an arrow. Something dealerships rarely do.

Hoi Evert, het ABS systeem heb ik gecheckt met de zg GS-911, en er waren geen fouten..of onregelmatigheden. Bedankt voor het mee denken.

Thanks mate, I will try the procedure that you pointed out. I will come back to it to tell if that solved the problem.

@@TheOldMechanic hello did you solve your problem i have the same thing with my RR (2016) i was looking for a new pair of brake rotors until this video pleasegive me a reply if you'r seeing this :)

Hi Oguz, until now I haven't been able try the above sollution. As soon as its solved I will let you all know.

@@TheOldMechanic okay man thank you also i will tell you if we can solve the problem on my bike 🙏

Perfect mate.

Hi Deepanjan, thanks for your comment ! The first thing I did with this bike was cleaning out the calipers, and lubricating them, put new brakepads into the calipers (Brembo) also used my 'BMW computer: GS911' (I have made a video about that too look in that playlist) to flush the ABS unit with new brake fluid.

May be the brake lines have become old and that's why it's expanding more than it was supposed to do...yet it won't cause the pulsation...

@@basudeepanjan1990 The brake lines are those braided ones, and fairly new. But I like your input ! Greetz from The Old Mechanic

Thanks for the tip 👍🏍

Hi Shai, your English is perfect !! Until now we have not find the problem. Did you replaced the disks with original BMW disk or did you went for another brand ?.

@@TheOldMechanic Hi, No I did not replace to the original disks but looks the same (Brembo Serie Oro Brake Rotor) www.carpimoto.com/en-IL/23937_168B407D7-Brembo-Serie-Oro-Brake-Rotor-168B407D7.htm

@@ShaiAroyo Hi Shai, they look very good and Brembo IS a very good brand, so strange that the problem isn't solved. Somewhere in these comment is someone who explains a procedure to mount the brake calipers (again) and that might be a sollution. I haven't try that yet. But if you do, please keep me / us updated.

On this bike, you have to align the brakes when re-installing the front wheel. This bike should not have a pulsating lever. That is unacceptable at speed, or on the track. There is a brake alignment procedure for this bike, google it for more info. The ABS only activates with heavy braking. Hard, aggressive braking that does not come close to wheel lock, will NOT activate ABS system. Anyone who may have changed the front tire, or removed for whatever reason, may not have aligned brakes. Its not as simple as a wheel on a dirt bike. FYI, the pulsation is created by four pads, (this bike has top shelf Brembo brakes, 4 pads per rotor) contacting each rotor, but not in alignment or unison. Sometimes the wheel can be reinstalled, and just by chance aligned well enough to not have a lever pulsation, so if you don't follow service protocol, it's a crap shoot on whether they will pulsate or not. Peace.

Hi a super comment, I am going to look this up in the BMW reprom RDS. Thanks for sharing. Greets from The Old Mechanic, and ride save.

UPDATE: I looked up whats in the BMW RDS (service manual) about installing the front wheel, and the brakes (left and right) BUT there is no such thing as 'aligning' the brake calipers.. BMW say: Slide the calipers in place and torque them with 38Nm. The same for the front wheel / axel 50Nm and the clampbolds with 19Nm (slowly up to 19Nm in 6 times) Where did you got this information ? Is it an official BMW statement or something someone found out .?

Dave Moss method, with front wheel removal. 1: loosen & remove axle nut 2: loosen all 4 pinch bolts 3: undo & remove brake calipers, remove axle & wheel. Installation 4: insert wheel & axle 5: hand tighten bike left (right side when looking from front) pinch bolts enough to stop axle turning while torquing axle nut on opposite side. Torque axle to 80Nm 6: Loosen left pinch bolts. (right side when looking from front) 7: Fit calipers, finger tight. 8: Spin wheel activate brake to align pads & calliper, repeat, then hold brake on. A zip tie or velcro strap is handy for this. 9: Torque Calipers 50Nm - then release brake. 10: Spin wheel to test. 11: Tighten pinch bolts on captive leg-bike right. 12Nm (left side when looking from front) 12: lower bike to ground- no brake, push up & down on forks to centre axle. 13: tighten pinch bolts left fork. 12 Nm (right side when looking from front) 14: bike up on stand & test wheel spin, job done. Video for reference: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/er94iZpp2b3XYZc.html Edit; BTW you cannot just blindly apply this method to any bike; it is for alignment of radial mounted calipers. Also some bikes are opposite. As in the captive leg is on the opposite side of the bike to the RSV4. Eg; My wifes Ducati. Also experimenting with this I found you can do item 12 after item 7 & get the same result or maybe better when you have old pads in calliper, though best results with new pads in callipers for all scenarios.

​@@MillerMountain70 Thanks for your comment. Please DON'T do this..! its a NEVER EVER a good idea to use your own amount of torque, as its always specific calculated by the manufactor. Over or under Torqueing is never the right way to go, it can give problems in the future. Specialy the calipers, BMW 'say' 38 Nm, so to torque them with 50 Nm is way to much, and this can lead to, that the thread could be stripped due to to stress on those parts (caliper) in the future. Remember its a steel bolt into an aluminium front fork. But the sequence might be something I absolute would like to try ! Greetz from The Old Mechanic, ride save 👨‍🔧--->🏍

Hi Maduranga, it could be worn out steering stem bearings. Lift your front wheel off the ground, grab both of your front forks and shake it to feel IF there is any play, and if there is renew the bearings.

@@TheOldMechanic thank you...

Not until now.. Its seems to be much less these days..

Heb je voor mij nog een terugkoppeling ? Ben heel benieuwd.

Hoi Richard, sorry voor mn late reactie. Bij ons is het nog niet opgelost. Ik moet ook wel eerlijk zijn dat ik er nog niet dieper in gedoken ben. Mn zoon (eigenaar van de S1000R) is nog steeds van plan om er toch 2 nwe schijven voor te gaan kopen. Wat jou probleem betreft, ik zou toch als eerst de schijven (laten) meten of ze niet krom zijn.

Oké dankjewel ga ik doen.

Hoi hoi, Uiteindelijk is het probleem opgelost, waarschijnlijk is dit bij jou ook het geval. Op de BMW S1000R zitten zwevende schijven. Wat blijkt…………de schijfrembussen zijn versleten. Ik heb ze laten vervangen en probleem is opgelost. Blijkt veel voor te komen bij de BMW. Haast niet te zien of voelen maar na vervangen van de busjes is het trillen verdwenen. Groet Richard.

Top man, bedankt ! 👍🏻👊🏻🏍