No problem man. I have other DIY's coming now that Im back to making videos again. This video has seemed to help a LOT of people so far. Glad it all worked out for ya

Job isn't that bad. Looks intimating but once you're in there its easy peasy

+Dean Krstevski Nice!!! Glad it worked out for ya. Saved ya some money. No go grab a beer with the money you saved.

+Christopher Nguyen Sweet!! Glad it helped you out. Easy stuff man!!

+Dr Pookums Hey not a problem. Thanks for watching.

+Mafioso Thanks!! I do it for the ///M community

Thanks. It probably could be better but at least a video is out there now instead of an internet write up

When you were disassembling the parts to get at the TBAs did you remove the spark plug covers on both sides like RDDC did? I am assuming this was for more accessibility?

That 45 minutes should include that. When I did my last one I had the complete car apart in 23 minutes. So 45 minutes is easily doable if you have everything ready to roll

Thanks man...I guess I didn't need that part HAHA!

+Tommy-Lee Davies Thanks! All in a days work...maybe two days work :)

+SpartanA31xx Thanks!!

+liverpuul25 Thanks. I hope people get some use put of it

+Pardeep R Thanks! Much appreciated

+darryn rouxelle No problem. That's what I made it for!

+James Whiteside yeah you can't bang on it too hard. But it's the only way to get that thing on and off. My gears weren't factory gears so they should be fine. Much thicker. Been running fine every since

Yeah, 140,000 miles isn't good enough for some people.

@@bbrf033 most of the ones I've seen and been told by owners happen at 60k miles. Should not happen at all, really bad design and materials used. If you got lucky and they lasted to 140k then good for you. Obviously there is an issue. A very expensive issue. My opinion, I respect yours.

1970PMD got mines at 73k

@@abelbeltran5345 e60 100k km so 60k miles

@@1970PMD How much would it have cost BMW to make the gears from brass or aluminum? Seems awful cheap for such an expensive car.

Hey thanks! Much appreciated!!

Thought about it. The rebuilt actuator is still going strong too. If it craps out its definitely the board but it will give me a chance to inspect the aftermarket gears to see how they held up and report back

Thanks Tim! Much appreciated man. I'm thinking of doing an updated video of this. I have to replace my passenger side one. And it would be good to see how those brass gears held up. The board has gone bad.

@@RDDC_Official sorry to hear that bro.

Two hour job, no biggie

It should. But a few things. If you threw the Christmas lights the first time and the car wont move then it's most likely broken gears. If you threw codes several times that cleared and even a final time that the car was still drivable in limp mode....then it's a bad board. Regardless the throttle actuators are down to $600 each at Turner Motorsports.

+Shawn Pier I'm not seeing anything. I was hoping my BMW code reader could actuate or send a signal but nothing. How I tested it was a bad board was to put the board on Bank 1 and see if that bank tripped codes...and it did. Now that I will have a spare actuator perhaps I can hook it up to a power source and take some measurements on a bench. People say the MOSFET IC's go bad, which I can order new ones but this is not 100% proven as some have replaced the chips and still have issues with the board.

+Justin To man its super easy. Follow my DIY and you'll be set. 2 people have already followed it and had success in 2.5 hours

Are there differences between the actuators for Bank 1 and 2? Or I can just buy two of the same? Also, should i expect any codes when starting the car after this install?

+Justin To both the same part number. When in the car one is turned up and the other down

Thanks again man, this was amazing, just replaced both actuators this week! Car has 85k on it and was wigging out with limp mode and codes everywhere. Took me 3.5 hours with my wife helping now and then. Couple of things I noted 1) the screws of the rear-most throttle bodies are a huge pain in the ass to get too. Any recommendations if i ever need to access those again? 2) the front tubing and connector attached to the front of the underside of the plenum is a BITCH to take off 3) i broke the plastic brackets off a couple of the connectors not even realizing they were attached to anything. One was the rear-most one on the left of the rail, and one was attached underneath the rail. I think they'll be fine if they are unattached and free, i can't do a whole lot about it now. 4) if you don't pay attention when putting things back, there are two connectors that are very similar near the front of the rail. One is colored green inside the connector, and one yellow. The yellow one goes to the plenum. The other one... doesn't. BMW wanted $900 bucks labor, and that's after a $1000 discount offered because it is a known m3 issue. Money towards my exhaust... :)

+Justin To awesome!!! I broke some come too man. It gets so hot under there the plastic becomes brittle. But I noticed the plugs stay in snug. No biggie. The car needs some battle wounds. Actuator screws are a bitch. I use a small magnet to get them into place. The front and rear plenum just suck. Hard to get to. I put in place and used a long screw driver to push up and pop back into place. But end result...not too bad. You got it done and got paid...win win for you!!! Now...my payment for the DIY is $999.99 haha! Good job man!

thanks a bunch man!!!

There is a bot if grease in there already. Not much but even at my work with industrial gears we don't use but a dab of grease. So I think that's normal. Too much grease isn't always a good think. But if the gears don't have any one it I think it wouldn't hurt if a little was applied

+Michael Coffey Thanks!! Much appreciated

+liverpuul25 Thanks man!! Much appreciated

+Lou Zeidberg That price actually went up. Was $580. That's after I paid $980 they dropped the price haha! Go figure!

RDDC found a place to rebuild in the US. us-shop.bba-reman.com/shop/parts/bmw-throttle-actuator-repair-2/ I think I may try it as now the upgraded gears are in there. If they can fix the board then maybe it won't fail again.

+Lou Zeidberg that's awesome. My rebuilt one is still working fine. Trust me, easier than you think

Ok if it's the board the problem will clear with a code clearer and go away. Might come back months down the road. Then happens again and each time it's less time between clearing codes. If a gear breaks, most likely the code will not disappear or comes immediately right back and your car will be stuck in limp mode until you replace it

It's all good. As long as people are able to get the work done, which most have expressed they have successfully. So it's a win win in my book

Shyne 1337 agree

RDDC love that humbleness!!!!!! Great job bro

Thanks Shane. Hopefully more DIY videos will be a bit better in the future.

Yup

I was only testing it to see if the metal wheel latest longer than the plastic wheel. I did take it apart and when the board failed and found the plastic gear slightly cracked. It wasnt any better or worse than original

Hey thanks. But no I dont have the name of the company. Are you sure it's your gears? I'd say about 95% report it's the board.

Looking back when I did this the throttle bodies were $1200 each. Today these things cost about $400 each. So yes, it's better to do a complete swap instead of repair these days

My basic cellphone. I have to replace my other one so thinking of doing a better updated video soon. My car is in the shop getting the bearings done as we speak

@@RDDC_Official oh wow. great phone. i need to get my rod bearings done as well.

@@RDDC_Official can you tell what signs you had that made you get them done?

Christmas tree lights on the dash. Clearing the code but comes right back. Codes won't clear at all.

Check your connections. One guy had the same thing and he didnt plug in a plug all the way. I believe under the intake he said.

+Harish Seethapathi Thanks!!

Turner Motorsports.

That Im not sure of. I'd assume the injectors or ignition coils first. From reading the forums misfiring is not a system of throttle actuators.

Ok some good questions. I do not know the teeth count. I didn't know there was a difference since the TA you buy is from 2008-2013, all have the same part numbers. Ok, experience with the gears I put in. When I replaced the TA after a bad board, this was the one I replaced the gear on. The gear had micro cracks after like 20k miles. I'm just throwing it out there from experience, just pay the money for new TA's. No you do not need to replace both at the same time. You will just have to do this all over again once the second one fails. Thankfully it's a 45 minute job for me now start to finish. So I'm not recommending replacing the gears unless they are BMW (Siemens) gears that go to the unit from the factory.

I did not disconnect the battery. The connectors you are disconnecting have no power to them unless the car is on. I've done this job several times now and never disconnected the battery.

@@RDDC_Official Thank you so much

The whole thing. The prices are cheap enough these days. I think they are down to a few hundred bucks a piece.

@@RDDC_Official thanks bro I appreciate it

Thanks

Just replaced both Throttle Actuators, the codes are gone But now I have 1 New code which is 2765 DME: Vanos Valve. Inlet. Bank 2 , activation. Do you have an idea of what that can be?

+hideki mine is running like brand new since the fix

Thanks for adding in the info.

It should move freely

140k my first one, 169k my second one. Not bad considering I hear others going half as many miles

@@RDDC_Official Bank 1 failed at 43000km or 26000 miles!!! Replaced gears only, codes did not clear right away - hoping they will clear tomorrow. Otherwise, whole TA must be replaced :(

+kontradictions I think anything clean would work. Just make sure not to get anything lodged in between the flaps

The acuators are same for the v8 and v10. Most kits come with gears only. As the poster said, buy the kit with the shafts already installed. FYI, the kits with built in shafts usually come as a single sety; you have to buy two. The gear only kits come in pairs

I'm seeing more boards fail than the gears. Even after like 140k miles my gears still looked ok. Not new but not enough to cause a fail. The board is the biggest culprit. It heats up and fails.

RDDC are you saying its better to just invest in NEW throttle actuators 800 both??

I did. I know I rebuilt the other one but the board has failed now in it too. So I bought a new one like I did the drivers side. That company where you get it for $360 each and you return your core is a deal. I'll be ripping my car back apart soon to show wear on the rebuilt gears, if any. I'm curious to see how they held up. Just in case those who had bad gears want to rebuild them.

RDDC awesome intel RDDC; what’s the company where you can get the TA’s discounted if you return your core? Thinking about trying to tackle this & exploring options.

I'm not sure man. The box is just white. I pulled it back apart and noticed one had a slight crack in it. So I'm not recommending that type.

Like 8 years

I have replaced my battery twice and not coded it

@@RDDC_Official i see.. i ended up replacing my TA both new with new battery

Thats 100% right

RDDC thanks for confirming

No problem

Did any of the connectors look broke or not snapped in all the way? Could be a wiring fault. Could be something more

RDDC all connectors looked in good shape. I figured my next step is to tear it apart again and triple check the connectors to make sure they are all tight

Did you ever figure it out? Having similar codes with 5E19 and occasionally my car will go into limp mode but it won’t last long. 2008 M3 here.

+Garrett M I think you're good probably to at least 50k....but I've heard of them failing before then.

4 Hours and that was videoing too and reading the forum post on how to do it. So I'm thinking someone can do it in 3 hours

+Hooray4boobies The links are in the descriptionof the DIY video. Car has been working great since the fix. The gears were $180 for both sets

+etienne wilson the link is in the description.

RDDC thanks for that really appreciate the correspondence.You used an app in the first video to give details on errors/faults ie think you searched the code on the apo.please could you provide the app details

RDDC thanks for that really appreciate the correspondence.You used an app in the first video to give details on errors/faults ie think you searched the code on the apo.please could you provide the app details

I didn't buy new actuators....well I had to buy one because the circuit board is bad. I heard it burns up from over current trying to drive bad gears. Bank 1 is good but Bank 2 is getting a brand new actuator. Will be in Tuesday. I will do a video showing all this and how I tested for a bad circuit board

ye it sucks. i wish it was easy but you know bmw lol. i would have just bought the gears and changed both but stupid circuits. all about the money

I thought about contacting Siemens and see if they have the boards since they make the actual unit. That would be like circuit board gold!

I noticed that too. I think it's coming from those black oil separators. I'm just now realizing how dirty it was under the the intake. If it wasn't so cold I'd take the time and spit clean everything.

RDDC I guess a little oil seepage is common on a modern bmw engine that is older than 5 yrs. actuators working now after install?

+Raymund Orlino The circuit board is bad on Bank 2. Bank 1 works fine after the rebuild. Unfortunately you can't buy the board anywhere without buying the whole unit. So I had to drop $1000 for a new one. Will be here Tuesday

So I did some research on the u1151 code. I can't find much but what you said. Some people say battery some people say actuators. I need to do a video on the code reader I use...Creator C110 from ebay. If will spit out bmw codes instead of generic codes. I will say this....what your car is doing is what mine did before the actuators went out with it being a bad board. The car wigs out, turn it off, back on , and codes go away. Mine did this twice before it crapped out. So I'd seriously start looking for parts now. Thats what I did and still had to buy a new actuator

It should have a link under the video. A user has circled the connectors on a pic.

@@RDDC_Official For some reason, and maybe it is because of my computer settings, the pictures are very fuzzy on that link and I cannot get them to become clear. Any idea(s) what I may be doing wrong? And I was wondering if it was necessary to remove the spark plug/coil covers on both sides in order to remove the intake manifold as it seems that there might be enough room for accessing the manifold's hoses and velocity stack screws?

@@craigg8185 I removes mine. They literally just pop off. It's a rubber grommet holding them on. You may or may not need to do this if you can access the intake screws to the throttle body. That's really the main reason for removal

+fast4d1 Looked like oil on the leaves. Still trying to figure out how the leaves got in there! But after an inspection the passenger side valve cover seals needs to be replaced

Your boards are bad.

Did you say that the gear spins on which shaft?

It failed electrically or the gears are not installed right

Should be...same unit. Same part number I believe

Well I knew that after I took them off 😂😂

@@RDDC_Official lol, I have done that rookie mistake first time repairing the throttle actuators

Zzero clue what INPA/EDIABAS is. I have a BMW code reader thats show me % of actuator movement. I need to do a video of it. But I'll have to check into what you are talking about

Those are technically too old for the car anyway. Dealers use ISTA-D. A more powerful software package that does everything. GT1 was before ISTA-D. Car's past 2008, GT1 won't read them. You would only use GT1 for cars around E46, E83, E53, E60, E65 and E31.

+Devin Smith It has settings up to the F30. But I did some software the other day on the forum (a screenshot) that was highly detailed. This must be what you're talking about. I need it!!!

Well save up for an ICOM A3 kit with software. Let me know if you can get it working. Were up to version 4.0. It will tell you wiring diagrams, diagnostic steps, torque specifications, faulty memory reading and it shows the entire control unit network. Its far better than what other auto groups have. I can tell you Roger, ISTA-D is more than a code reader (which is what most ebay sellers and Strap-On sells anyway). The only thing you can't really do anything about is ISTA-P or IMIB (Our multifuntion Oscilloscope with current measurement capabilities). I would get a hackable Rigol 4 channel Oscilloscope for measurements.

Devin Smith Believe me it not too old, I used it last weekend to bleed the ABS ECU and used it numerous times to functional test other units

+B Lopez not at all

RDDC appreciate the reply and appreciate the DIY. Just wrapped this up and cars running great again!

+B Lopez Great to hear!!! Easy stuff huh?

Also why are the gears plastic?! Wtf I expected more from bmw

That was my theory, was trying to get as much life out of the second one as possible. It lasted any additional 30,000 miles. And you dont have to buy two at once. The job isnt that complicated to do again

Not sure. Timing chain gears in old vehicles were a nylon/plastic and they held up decent. On the TA's I see more boards fail than gears. But that's me. You'll hear varied opinions

@@RDDC_Official yea doesnt look that bad, I had an Acura rsx back in the day and had to take the transmission out twice because I knocked teeth off the final drive and thought it was a bad clutch at first. That was not fun... let me tell you.

RDDC How do you go about changing the board?

+Jesus Martinez someone sent me a link that sells them for about $700 taxes included for each. So for two around $1500 shipped.

That's a whole new actuator :( Yup...$1,000. I ordered one from Tuner Motorsports Next Day Air. Will ship out Monday and be here Tuesday. I couldn't find anyone that sold boards separate. Talk about shitty luck. And these "repair" places you have to send yours in, wait, then they send it back. I dont have time for all that. So I just ordered a brand new one and it has a 2 year warranty. Only crappy thing is I can't take the new one apart to upgrade the gears or I'll void the warranty.

RDDC oh man that's not fun , is it something all BMW m3 owners have to deal with at some point or it's just luck of the draw ? I test drove the e93 convertible m3 and It still makes me want to pick one up too. Good luck with your cars and the e36. Been enjoying the vids by the way, very informative

+Sam Everyone told me it would happen sooner or later. The forums all say it will happen. I just happen to get lucky that it took so long to fail. And thanks for kind words. Got more videos coming from the past month. I was recording just zero time to edit. I was out on business

+Dave S no the ones I bought on eBay were just the new gears. But since the board was bad on Bank 2 I was forced to buy a new one. I could have bought a used one but I'd rather have a new one. Hard to trust used ones

+Dave S Forgot, car has been running great every since

Thanks man. Much appreciated

+David Tennien funny I found that out after. I was like "WTF?! Decoration?" BMW uses plastic gears but add a nice chrome useless part to the plenum.

Believe me you aren't the only one. A lot of people did it.

+Taharqa Saaba I prefer Shell V-Power but it's not available in my area. This seems to be the preferred gas for M3's people choose.

RDDC Thank you! BMW here in West Palm Beach told me only to use Chevron. I have Chevron, Shell, Exxon and Mobile1 all next to each other. I am going to start using Shell. Chevron can be a hassle to find sometimes.

+Taharqa Saaba Yeah all those are decent but Shell has been tested and proven to be the cleanest gas and uses nitrogen to clean carbon buildup.

I ran it until the board went out then replaced the whole thing. The gears worked fine

Okay, my situation is that one day I down blipped it went around 4k rpm and then went into limp mode, I read some of your comment before and it sounds like the board but I wanted to confirm. It still drove, I pulled off and did a carly scan (002B26) Throttle monitoring bank 2 and (005E19) coil outlet valve shorted. Restarted and it was fine since, I've driven it around a while longer with nothing but I tested the downblip just around 3500rpm and it did it again, I parked my car since then. Does it sound like board or do you think the gears will hold it off a while longer? I've done some reading, the second code is something about abs or wheel speed, I also might have a dying battery as before all this start/stop and some starts would struggle randomly. Fully spec E93 M3 minus comp pkg

@@MrHott-zf5fc ok the coil error is not a code that pops up with throttle actuators. Just a heads up

@@RDDC_Official okay thanks, do you think that I have to get actuators or will gears might postpone the inevitable

Just budget $1200 for two new ones. There is a guy in UK that sells them for $300 each. But the catch is you have to pay for shipping. From USA to his address, in the UK, for 2 TAs cost $100+. Then you have to send yours back! That will cost over $100+. By the time its said and done you could just buy new ones. But, he does guarentee his for life. Here's my honest truth about the rebuilt one I bought. I just got my bearings and motor mounts done and the car idled perfectly. Then I put in a rebuilt TA and now its not idling perfect like before. Im just gonna buy a new one like I did before when I feel like dropping $600.