I’ve done this twice so far, great video! Thank you! Second time though I didn’t cut out the old spud. I just laid the radiator down on the floor, cut off the nut, and took out the spud with a pipe wrench and 5 foot cheater bar. Bent the spud, but then it came loose. I prefer this to cutting it out and risking cutting the radiator threads.

Thank you. I had a repair man sit , cursing, yelling on the phone, more shouting, and charged me an extra $300 because he didn't know what to do with a new pressure valve on our furnace. ( it was super simple, something like draining the lines first-- after two hours of cursing, yelling). I wrote the check ( he was so outrageously intimidating to an old lady) and put "do not call them ever" on the sticker he had put on my furnace. By watching your videos, I can at least try to be an informed consumer. THANK YOU AGAIN!!

I'm a Superintendent and new GC on my own. I try to learn just everything I can. This is probably one of the best videos. Greatly explained. Thank you!

Half the battle is knowing what you're in for, and the tricks so you don't get screwed. This was great - thank you very much!

Thanks for the informative video. I replaced a 90 year old steam valve today using your techniques and they worked like a charm. Took me about 40 minutes. Appreciate your help.

Just to follow up, this procedure took me all of an hour and a half, and a lot of that time was getting the valve at the supply store. Thank you so much Bob.

Thank you so much for this information. I was just quoted an INSANE price for this work. I'm a very competent DIYer and homeowner of a 150 yr/old home in CT. I'm excited to take care of this myself with finesse rather than brute force and big bucks as my plumbing company guy suggested.

You saved my afternoon. Everything went perfectly thanks to your advice!

Exactly the video I needed! Thanks for sharing your knowledge Bob.

Great video, thx Bob

Yes, thank you so much for this video. Help me out so much.

Great Video . Quick and to the point. Just what I need to do . Thanks.

Thank You so much Bob, Finally something the average Joe can understand. Great video !!!

Excellent tutorials! Thanks

Well done; a first rate training video. You explained the objective and the technique. You demonstrated the technique. and at the end you reviewed the technique.

hi there well done john

Unbelievable! Clear!

Thank you so much for this video.. it's very helpful

This was the video I needed badly thanks

Thank you so much, this helped me out a lot.

Solid information here!

Thank you sir.

Thanks!

Bob thank you. I guess I’m going to return that wrench I bought.

Hey Bob, Thanks for the video, I cut out a lot of valves in the past 30 years, I got a trick, But I use a sawzall. 1st horizontal cut on the valve just above the nipple. 2nd vertical cut on remaining piece and split with a chisel. 3rd vertical cut on spud at begging off the threads. 4th inside cut same as shown by you. I don't bother with a chisel there I just pinch it with my pump pliers. sure I cut a few threads here and there, but with single strand wicking and pipe dope I have never had a problem with leaks. With this I never touch the spud nut and the job takes about 5 minutes Hope this helps

Great video. We just spent $500+ to get one radiator valve changed in NYC. So, I was very curious about this job. Obviously, it's not that easy. You need the right tools and you have to have some experience with diy jobs but at least I know it's possible. I imagine some of these old radiators can be a nightmare to deal with. Thanks Bob for the education!

U are THE BEST

I have a slow drip on the union nut, I tried to tighten and it turned slightly buy still leaks. Now i'm going to try to loosen and put some pipe dope and retighten it. Or should I just use your method and replace?

Funny, I just did this with a 1-1/4-in. steam valve. My radiators are somewhere over 90 years old and the valves were never changed, so the parts are quite married together with whatever pipe dope was used, and countless steam heating cycles and rust from the steel parts. Here's a couple tips: To remove the spud nipple from the radiator, which couldn't be moved with a large wrench, I tried some penetrant first. I used Sea Foam Deep Creep, which I sprayed on the spud threads, and tapped it a few times with a hammer to hopefully help the penetrant work its way into the threads. I let it sit overnight, came back to it in the morning and unscrewed it fairly easily.As for replacing the valve, my existing valve is a Marsh brand (now part of Aquatrol, Inc.), which has been making steam fittings since the early 1800s I discovered. Before I researched and found Marsh online, I had tried unsuccessfully to find a replacement valve locally with the same or near same dimensions, i.e., the same height, but they were all too short (like the one in the video), which would have necessitated adding to or replacing the existing nipple on which the valve fits so its angle would come in at the same height as opening in the radiator. As it turned out, I found the current 1-1/4-in. Marsh valve is identical to my 90-year old valve in its dimensions. The folks at Marsh are extremely helpful (I called and spoke with Valerie) and are expediting my new valve to me. All the Marsh valve specs are available online, which may be helpful to others.

I've heard people say it only took him an hour to do that job, why is it so much money? You pay for the experience of the tradesman and the amount of time learning how to do said job quickly and efficiently! This is a perfect example.

Great video!!!!!! I have a house full of old radiators and these are great tips THANK YOU.Would you suggest using a recip.saw or a dremel to make the slits to make it quicker?

So there's no teflon tape on the threads on the valve before you screw on the collar on the spud? I just want to be 100% sure. Great video!

Just the video I need. Moved into a house built in 1920 with original steam heat radiators. Single pipe style. I need to remove them on the second floor in order to have the floor refinished. Question though, I'm putting in new hardwood floors over the existing downstairs. However with 3/4" floors, the valve will no longer line up with the radiator when it's sitting on the floor 3/4" high. I REALLY don't want to install the floor around the legs. Do you have any advice?

Great video.Thank you.Question. If you are going to cut off the spud, why bother trying to cut the spud nut?

Bob, you mentioned using _both_ Teflon tape _and_ pipe compound on the same joint, at least at one point of these two videos. Why do you use two methods of sealing the threads? Could you discuss this in an upcoming video, along with the pros & cons of graphite vs. Teflon packing material? Thank you for these instructive videos. (I'm back here watching these videos because of your new "Steam Radiator Not Working" video.)

Great job, Bob - I think you're going to save me some dough. Not sure I want to tackle it myself unless the cost of the tools is adds up. What is a reasonable labor cost range to swap out an easily accessible valve?

Bob how do you determine the size of a replacement valve... i think mine might be an inch and a half thanks

Bob - I made a mistake when repacking a one pipe radiator steam valve that was leaking. I used way too much graphite packing, and overtightened. The valve is now unturnable even with the packing nut completely off. I tried removing as much packing as possible with a dental pick but it's just too small an opening at the root. Even for a dental pick. Is there anything that can be done to fix the valve or is the only option now a valve replacement? Valve is stuck in a partially open position and the radiator does heat up.

Hi bob . Can we use electric sow so to cut this cooper?

Do u put any tape/compound on the spud?

Great tut, but I have a questions. How far is too far? For instance, say I want to go ahead and try to spin the valve off. How much pressure would you suggest I apply before I back off?

Great vid. It seems that the new valves are not as tall as the old ones. I just bought high quality valves made by Legend. What is your recommendation in that situation? Do you shim up the radiator?

thanks for the tips, but why not cut the union off right away and skip the second part? thanks

Bob I noticed you did not put Teflon tape on the male side of the valve you put it on a nipple but not on a valve are you supposed to put it on the valve to and the nipple. Also instead of cutting the union nut off of the nipple why can't you just leave it on and just cut the nipple eliminating that step of trying to get the union nut off you save yourself a step just cut the nipple you got to cut the nipple anyway can you do that would that work

You can use a chisel to take out the remaining spud rather than hacksaw it out and risk cutting the radiator threads.

Close the valve, Righty tighty, won't to turn the radiator off. after having closed the valve, heat still radiating. Valve maybe stuck won't fully close. Any Ideas ?

great video, would of been better if you actually showed the work though.