Bonsaify | Eric Answers a Common Bonsai Question: What SOIL to Use and Why!

Рет қаралды 45,690

Күн бұрын

Eric answers one of the most common questions he receives: What soil does he use, and why? In this video, he shares the four different soil components we use at Bonsaify.
00:00:34 Eric actually uses two different soil mixes, 1 for early and middle development, and a 2nd for late development and mature trees.
00:00:49 For early & middle development, he uses a mix of perlite and cocoa coir. He explains why he uses 80% perlite by volume; 20% cocoa coir.
00:01:38 Eric uses perlite #3 on the bottom of some containers with trees he knows want more air than they'd get with coarse perlite.
00:02:16 Perlite as "Rock Popcorn"!
00:02:50 Why fertilization on-ramp is needed when using new perlite.
00:03:07 Cocoa coir is basically ground up, partially composted organic matter (process husk of coconut). It's relatively inexpensive, and Eric prefers it over peat moss-based soils.
00:03:48 For late development and mature trees, Eric uses a mix of akadama and pumice or lava. Akadama (Eric buys the Aoki blend from Bonsai Tonight at store.bonsaitonight.com/colle...) must be imported from Japan, which is why it's really expensive.
00:05:14 The percentage of akadama used effects the way plants grow; the higher the percentage the slower the tree's growth.
00:05:42 Best practice: wash soil particles before using, especially Lava!
00:06:48 Sift fine particles out of pumice and wash!
00:07:09 Using an early development Kishu juniper as an example, Eric shows the working properties of the first soil blend.
00:07:54 Look at the roots; healthy, good coloration, with root division inside the center of the root ball.
00:08:36 Infamous example of a soil substrate that is not good to use: Turface!
00:09:07 Why Eric adds some perlite first and raises the root ball before placing the tree back into the container.
00:10:00 Example of a more mature tree: Itoigawa juniper in a mixture of lava, pumice, and akadama. Eric dumps the mixture out to look at the roots. Again there is good root growth and root division.
What experiences do you have with soil mixes? Do you use other mixtures? Let us know in the comments below! Thank you for watching; please like and share this video with all your bonsai friends and PLEASE SUBSCRIBE to our channel for more great bonsai videos!

Пікірлер: 160

@balesjo Жыл бұрын

As a geologist, I'm glad to see you mention that there are chemical/mineralogical difference between lava rock that comes from different sources (this would also apply to pumice). I've seen people comment that "lava rock is lava rock" and "pumice is pumice' and therefore they buy the cheapest they can find. So far you are the first grower who has addressed that belief. For instance, dark/black basaltic lava is going to differ in chemistry and mineral content from the lighter-colored rhyolitic lava, the basalt being relatively lower in silicon and higher in aluminum, iron, magnesium, and calcium, while rhyolitic lavas are have relatively higher levels of silicon, magnesium, and sodium. and iron. Of course, bags of lava rock and pumice are not going to mention the lava type they were mined from, but it's worth understanding that soil mix components do differ in their mineral content. We see this play out in nature when certain types of plants, hardwoods and conifers are found growing in some volcanic areas and not in others. When in doubt and you're repotting old or valuable bonsai, consider paying extra and buying material that has a proven history for growing healthy bonsai.

@ericross6316 Ай бұрын

Thank you for the information. I enjoy the look of black lava, but i will now start reading a little more. Thank you.

@ANDREASDEUTSCH 11 ай бұрын

I would also like to emphasize that coconut, which is practically waste, is probably a much better material from the point of view of ecology than peat, which regenerates very slowly. Superb video. I thought after 20 yers of cultivation plants I knows about soils everything, but I was wrong... :-)

@maryperrysmith5815 Жыл бұрын

Wow this just popped up on my feed I so needed this understanding about soils. I love the way you explained it all. Thank you Mary in Indiana

@lyledeschand863 2 жыл бұрын

Very comprehensive, thanks 👍

@judymagrath3771 2 жыл бұрын

Fantastic video - so informative!

@HoundStuff 2 жыл бұрын

Good information, thanks!

@watsup6084 2 жыл бұрын

Using the 80/20 perlite/coco for my black pine seedlings thanks to you. They absolutely love it and are growing vigorous even on my balcony which is not a good location.

@BONSAIenCORTO 2 жыл бұрын

Really Thank you.

@raggedbreath 6 ай бұрын

So useful, thank you! I don't have any developed trees so that simple, nursery version looks good and accessible to me!!

@themichaellerner 2 жыл бұрын

Eric, I also wanted to take a moment (while I see you are reading comments) to thank you for your excellent video on adjusting water pH with citric acid. Using the info from the results of your test, I was able to nail the adjustment of 300 gallons of tap water (originally at pH 9) to pH 6.5 on my very first try, without a whole lot of iterative titrations. I cannot thank you enough. You re a gem!

@Bonsaify 2 жыл бұрын

🙏

@veegee49 Жыл бұрын

Thank you Sir this is the first time I ever got my black pine seedlings to grow all year For the last 5 years I have killed them all now there growing like weeds Glad I found your site I'll be watching.

@RoflMcCoptrson 4 ай бұрын

I appreciate that you’ve shown the results of your mixes. I’m on a strict budget, so knowing I can work with perlite and coco coir for most everything in development is going to take a lot of pressure off my wallet!

@johnwinzy6223 2 жыл бұрын

Thank you I have learned a lot from you shout-out from India

@radrickdavis 2 жыл бұрын

Have rescued some of my dying trees by adding sphagnum moss pieces into the soil. It doesn't help much with root division, but it does create balance of temperature, air, water, and ph very well. For a busy hobby gardener who has less time to water correctly, I find it helps to protect my trees from root rot and drying out completely.

@sadoldgit313 Жыл бұрын

Sphagnum Moss is like an antibiotic for ailing trees!

@balesjo Жыл бұрын

I've seen the bonsai expert Peter Chen (Great Britain) do several videos on this. He swears by adding a layer of spaghnum moss in the bottom of the pot when you have a damaged or unhealthy trees. He has videos on this at his KZfaq site Herons Bonsai.

@hyperionhelios190 2 жыл бұрын

really excellent video Eric thank you. In Canada I feel like we have even less soil options. We get pretty creative here!

@Bonsaify 2 жыл бұрын

There are so many good options: Lava and Perlite, Decomposed granite, pumice (washed). Even bark and sand can work. Thanks for watching. Love your avatar too. 😎

@robertjones7023 Жыл бұрын

For years I have used dirt from my yard mixed with peat-based potting soil with lackluster results. I'm now field-growing my plants in my backyard to get more girth and overall growth so that I can develop them better. I'm probably going to still blend in yard soil and organics with pearlite and coarse gravel as an experiment.

@MrClarkeGaber 2 жыл бұрын

I'm sticking with the same perlite/coco ratio for the Kishu, but I substitute pest moss because it's readily available and cheap. I've tried that mix with a bunch of cuttings, but I find that how well it works is species specific. Junipers and chines elm seem to do the best in it (although I can't get a juniper cutting to live to save my life), but my Brazilians don't prefer it and serissa cuttings despise it. For those, I'm using whatever potting soil I happen to have on hand with a little extra perlite. For mature trees, I do lava, pumice and fir bark fine nuggets (orchiata or equivalent), because that's also what is readily available and has sustainable sources here in the States. I also prefer the extra moisture retention of the fir. South Florida gets blazing hot and I find straight inorganic dries out too quickly for my liking. Great video

@zoeyf3471 11 ай бұрын

More people need to learn about how bad turface is. In large pots the top half of the pot will be bone dry, and the bottom half will be soaked. No roots will grow in those dry parts. After I switched to pumice/pine bark/perlite mix the soil stays evenly moist and roots are everywhere in the mix. I think a volcanic based mix is the best way to go for container growing even for house plants.

@scheers100 2 жыл бұрын

I did not know perlite absorbs some nutrients. Thank you for the clear explanation!I always sift my soils and wash my lava-rock

@Bonsaify 2 жыл бұрын

Glad it was helpful!

@peterzukof7942 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks for the clear explanation- will really help for for some experimentation. I’m a novice in Savanna GA and it’s been interesting to find a good mix that can crazy weather. I was afraid to use too much pearlite because of our fairly constant heavy thunderstorms which seem to knock a lot of soil around.

@Bonsaify 2 жыл бұрын

Maybe top-dress with lava to keep it from blowing around. We do have that problem at the nursery during dry conditions.

@balesjo Жыл бұрын

@@Bonsaify Worst case scenario if you don't have lava rock or pumice, get a package of neutral colored (or whatever you like) aquarium gravel, wash it, and top dress the bonsai soil with it (a tip I'd learned growing sansevierias).

@twilliam4986 Жыл бұрын

Love the videos and gain lots of knowledge from watching them! I live in southern Alberta, Canada; it’s quite an arid and dry climate in the summer with long cold winters, similar to Montana down south. It’s quite difficult to find even pumice for sale here. I can source small black lava, perlite, and coco husk chunks for better water retention. Do you imagine that this mix could work well in my climate?

@Bonsaify Жыл бұрын

It will work I think. The coco husk chunks tend to be a bit large in my experience. You can sub in a 20% of a fine-grated fir or pine bark (e.g. 1/4-1/2" in size.) Akadama is better if you're in refinement or long - term care. I use the perlite/lava/coco components more in growing and early dev.

@twilliam4986 Жыл бұрын

Thanks for getting back to me! The coco chunks I purchased are quite fine and meant for seedling orchids, I purchased them opposed to fir bark since it was cheaper. I suppose the best way to see if it works is to try it out on a few of my junipers and pines this year. Keep it up on the development videos! I have learnt a ton from watching your videos!

@bonsaistop 2 жыл бұрын

Hey Eric - great video as always! I'm a huge fan of diatomaceous earth, only issue I've found with it is that most of the time the particle size tends to be small and so on larger sized trees, it can sometimes retain more water than desired. I've found that using this on deciduous trees seems to work well, similar to how the Japanese artists prefer 100% akadama for their deciduous

@Bonsaify 2 жыл бұрын

Interesting! Never tried it.

@chompers11 2 жыл бұрын

Real bad for pollinators though

@chompers11 2 жыл бұрын

@@atomartin meh, if they land on it they die, I personally am good with not using it :) you dont keep your bonsai inside, do you? Lol

@chompers11 2 жыл бұрын

@@atomartin I mean no doubt it's useful for something.. I definitely think it has a ton of potential for pest control. However we get so few pollinators now I'm fine with using less invasive methods to take care of pests. Dont get it twisted, I know I'm not making any difference in the grand scheme of things, it's just how I approach these things

@moratiwawaka Жыл бұрын

I think it's powdered diatomaceous earth that is harmful to insects, not granules. If it's been properly rinsed and sifted, I don't think there should be any fine particulates in the growing medium.

@bulebonsaibatam1758 2 жыл бұрын

Amazing. I use the same Perlite & Coco Coir Mix for all my propagation. 1-1 ratio For my mature trees I use Lava, Perlit & Coco Coir mix. 6-1-1 ratio. I have found that Akadama holds to much moisture for me here in Indonesia. Also Akadama is expensive here.

@chaquatics9512 2 жыл бұрын

Hi Eric, would you be able to touch on some tips for what to do with trees (particularly Kishu Juniper) during extreme weather patterns? In my area, we have had stretches of heat pushing 100 degrees F followed by multiple days of constant rain for the past two weeks. Anything you have to offer on this topic would be very helpful. Thank you for your time!

@Bonsaify 2 жыл бұрын

Great suggestion! Quickly - for temperatures more than about 20F above normal - or above 100F and more than 10F more than normal - I use shade cloth. If your climate is generally evenly hot, ramping up in spring to 100F, and then staying that way for a while, the plants should be generally more tolerant of heat. If your climate is normally 60F and you get to 100F, then your plants will be in trouble. Part of the stress has to do with the heat of the sun on the side of the container. But here are a few things to do: 1. Retractable 30-40% shade cloth. It's cheap and pretty quick to put up a last minute protection. It will raise humidity slightly also. This would be my #1 suggestion, hence it's #1. If you can rig it to easily be moved when it's cooler then this is ideal. (and I now have this over all my specimen trees due to heat waves when we're normally 65-75F in summer.) 2. Wrap pots in white cloth, tinfoil, or anything else to keep the side of the pots from getting too much heat. 3. Mist overhead to keep leaves wet, but try not to keep the soil soggy for extended periods of time. 4. water the ground to reduce heat (by the water evaporating) and increase humidity. The effect is temporary, but it can last 15 minutes or more depending. And if you automate it with a timer it could be a game changer. 5. Place plants in afternoon shade. 6. Place the pots on the ground and mulch over them, just like winter protection. E.g. keeping the root zone more moderated.

@chaquatics9512 2 жыл бұрын

@@Bonsaify wow that’s a ton of great info, thank you so much!

@potreliefbonsaibatu5035 2 жыл бұрын

The right planting medium,determine root health👉root health determine overall growth of the tree,from base of stem until the tip of the leaves

@claudiobernal9535 2 жыл бұрын

Gracias, voy a probar la mezcla de componentes, ya estaba usando la cascara de coco con pizarra de montaña y algo funciona, voy a usar la perlita aunque aquí en duitama es muy difícil conseguirla y la akadama totalmente imposible ,nuevamente gracias.

@infoguerrero 11 ай бұрын

Hola puedes usar ladrillo machacado como sustituto de la akadama y grava de acuario como sustituto del kiryuzuna la grava de acuario retiene nutrientes también y la fibra de coco las puedes encontrar en las tiendas de animales trata esto es muy bueno también saludos desde Estados Unidos.

@claudiobernal9535 11 ай бұрын

@@infoguerrero muchas gracias por la información y también un saludo.

@franciscocarlosoliveirasan4 2 жыл бұрын

Tradução Pará o português do Brasil GRATIDÃO 🙏👏

@dkstott29 Жыл бұрын

It seems to me that you need a lot more organics for tropical bonsai like Jade and portulacaria afra. 🤔🌱

@eeeealmo 2 жыл бұрын

Can you speak on the similarities and differences between perlite and pumice? At first glance they seem equivalent

@Bonsaify 2 жыл бұрын

Pumice - Chemically relatively inert, however fresh pumice should be washed to remove excess Sodium, after sifting to remove dust. This can really stunt growth if you skip the step - it may not, but there is no easy way to know the sodium concentration of the freshly processed aggregate. Perlite is also chemically inert down to very low pH, and there is no excess leaching initially, so no washing needed. However, initially you'll need to provide excess fertilizer to compensate for the tendency of the perlite to bind nutrients. By comparison - Perlite is lighter, and 2mm+ size retains more water by 2-3x than pumice. That means that something in pumice will dry down much quicker. The rate of dry-down depends partly on the particle size and partly on the particle properties. With Perlite the larger sizes are actually more porous, while the smaller particles (like 1mm and under) are less porous, more like a sand particle. That means that what I said about using the coarser type at the bottom might not make sense - however the coarser variety also allows for much more air penetration in practice, which pine roots seem to prefer. So - bottom line - Perlite retains far more water and nutrient than pumice for particles larger than about 2mm, and slightly more for smaller particles. The smaller particles are more like sand - retaining a lot of water between the particles, but not inside.

@lucidu4euh 2 жыл бұрын

this is usually my go to soil mix as well. But I was wondering if you had any input on alternative soil mixtures for tropical trees?

@snager80 Жыл бұрын

Just use regular potting soil. I've also heard from Heron's nursery that they used just straight Coconut coir. My ficus really take off when I repot them in something like that.

@Mgardener7849 7 ай бұрын

👍

@wabisabi3619 2 жыл бұрын

Hi Eric, I use typical akadama/pumice mix for refined trees but have had all my developing trees in regular potting mix. I will begin the process of moving to your suggested coir/perlite mix this coming spring (I’m in the Southern Hemisphere). I was wondering if you have ever had issues with what we call ‘curl grubs’? Essentially they are just beetle larvae. They chew through roots and I’ve had some small pots, with regular pitting mix, similar t the square ones in this video that had over a dozen larvae in them! I have poison but I really don’t want to use it. I have heard that a course soil mix like pumice and perhaps perlite is something they don’t like as it is too rough on their soft bodies. They definitely seem to love shimpaku junipers and conifers more than other species of trees. If Eric or anyone else knows much about dealing with these nasty pests, please share. Thank you

@Bonsaify 2 жыл бұрын

Hi! I've never heard of that - but grubs are definitely something to get rid of quickly. Imidacloprid is effective, as are other agrichemicals. But, you might try diatomaceous earth since this can mechanically kill insects (look it up.) Otherwise, juniper roots can tolerate a quick dip in horticultural soap , which would kill most insects by suffocation. Just dip in a not-too-concentrated solution of soap, then wait an hour and water to remove most of the residue. Be sure to use horticultural soap to avoid Na+ toxicity problems.

@wabisabi3619 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Eric, much appreciated. 😊

@alexanderlehrer 7 ай бұрын

I may have missed it but what are the percentages of Akadama, pumice and or lava for mature trees? Great videos, Thanks

@Bonsaify 7 ай бұрын

Ah - I think I didn't specify. Baseline is 1:1:1 - but your local climate might dictate more akadama....and species, age and other factors also do. The base ratio is pretty useful across many climates and tree types.

@sbragaglia 2 жыл бұрын

Hi Erik, thanks for the interesting video! How long before you graduate a plant from soil type 1 to soil type 2? Probably depends on the species, but how long in average?

@Bonsaify 2 жыл бұрын

Check the video I did a couple weeks ago about the definition of Early, Middle and Late development. It's not a time frame, but how you want the tree to grow. Do you want it to grow fast? If so, use the perlite. Do you want it to grow slower and more reliable/dense for a finished tree? If so, then use akadama. With the junipers in the video, I wouldn't change the soil until the trunk is as large as I want it, and I am transitioning from growing branches to refinement. E.g when you finish middle development, then start the transition.

@sbragaglia 2 жыл бұрын

@@Bonsaify of course! Silly me I didn’t think to connect the dots between the two videos. And thanks for the further explanation: much appreciated! Finally moved to a house with a little gard… ehm patio, and I started to experiment with perlite and molar clay (I think is the name), looking forward to add coco choir and pumice/lava! (My trees are not yet mature enough for akadama…)

@mariob.3232 Жыл бұрын

Never thought that perlite as main composiye of the soil could be so good. Thought using pine bark fines with coco coir, but I will give a try with perlite. Do you need to water more often compared to the soil with akadama and lava? Ans what kind of fertelizer do you use with perlite? Just regular one?

@Bonsaify Жыл бұрын

perlite holds more water than A-P-L mixes. Fertilizer is no difference. Don't go below 20% coco or bark with the perlite as the pH doesn't then have any moderation and you start getting poorer results. Also, there is considerable variation in perlite, so test a few kinds.

@joem2745 7 ай бұрын

I heard that perlite also discourages fungus gnats because of its microscopic sharp edges. Not sure if that's true or not.

@SirSpinser Жыл бұрын

I am curious about your comment concerning Turface. Do you mean Turface is bad in any mix or do you mean when used solely? Reason being, I recently used it in A LOT of my pre-bonsai's in a mix with perlite, turface, lava and pumice. In some, the turface was too much and clumped and created mud extremely quick. Even though it was a 1:1:1:1 mix. Unfortunately, I didn't catch this until I already repotted a ton of plants this spring. I am in Florida so spring has been here already for a couple of months. It would take a lot of work to redo, but I will keep a close eye on all i've done to make sure they aren't declining. If so, of course I will repot if needed. If you mean Turface in any mix, would you recommend repotting all my trees asap or wait to see if they decline and slip pot if needed. Most of them are Ficus species, Elm, and...... that's all I can think of at the moment.

@Bonsaify Жыл бұрын

I think you'd be fine in a mix for a year. But generally, serious growers I know avoid it at all costs. E.g. I'd rather use just pumice, lava and sifted bark than add turface. Perlite is great, I'm using it as mentioned in the video, but it can't be used alone. I think adding sited pine or fir bark rather than turface would be better at least for growing. For older plants, I'd definitely invest in akadama...until a real alternative surfaces...if ever.

@mikecipriani7792 Жыл бұрын

I cut the needles back on my two Black Pines, hope I didn't make a mistake.

@dacquetvincent4926 2 жыл бұрын

Bonjour de France. En Europe on commence à utiliser de plus en plus de la zéolithe (chabasite) en remplacement de l'akadama. Meilleures rétentions en eau et nutriments...

@dacquetvincent4926 2 жыл бұрын

À la place du kiryu, l'arène granitique fr.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ar%C3%A8ne_(g%C3%A9ologie)

@jamesancilleri3694 2 жыл бұрын

Eric, what size akadama are you using ?

@brucedeacon28 9 ай бұрын

👍👌🙂

@ScottTheExperimentalist Ай бұрын

For early and middle development, what are your thoughts on pumice instead of perlite? Do you like is perlite better for cost as a grower? Or because it is lighter than pumice and perhaps that helps with roots? Just seeking to understand why one over the other. I have access to both so sourcing is not an issue for me. Thanks!

@Bonsaify Ай бұрын

Pumice is not uniform, so I have to wash it to ensure uniformity which is a huge pain. Perlite is both lighter and cheaper. Both work, and mixing them would be fine. Perlite is basically inert media - where pumice has some beneficial chemical properties for soil, although residual minerals from the mining process are possibly problematic...hence the washing. With perlite/coco I've started adding fir bark also for longevity; the coco breaks down too much over 2-3 years so adding the bark allows a bit longer timeline before repotting.

@ScottTheExperimentalist Ай бұрын

@@Bonsaify thanks for the reply! I will definitely make sure to wash the pumice and lava that I have. Thanks to your inspiration I’ve started using 66% “course and chunky” perlite with 33% Ocean Forest potting mix (aged forest products, peat moss, sandy loam, pearlite, organic fertilizer) for my rooted cuttings. Hopefully this will act similarly to your mix and get some good roots and thickness. Do you think I’m on the right track?

@markwoodard4012 2 жыл бұрын

Since akadama causes root ramification and slows growth as you said, l have a question about using pond baskets instead of regular pots. The theory of the baskets is they air prune and also cause roots to ramify. Do the baskets slow growth as well?

@Bonsaify 2 жыл бұрын

Yes, they do. But, the advantages probably outweigh the disadvantages at least for pines. And you can offset the disadvantages by keeping the sides more humid and or by watering more. For junipers and other trees solid sided containers or fabric pots are probably better.

@markwoodard4012 2 жыл бұрын

@@Bonsaify l remember in another video your saying pines liked the baskets. I have a lot of revamping to do this next spring! 😝

@denvernow7294 2 жыл бұрын

Since turfis doesn't promote early division, do you imagine it would be good for creating a long undivided system for future root over rock or exposed root trunk bonsai when using a tall top pot and a wider bottom pot in conjunction?

@boxCatalogue 2 жыл бұрын

Turface is generally a poor choice for bonsai because it's a clay particle intended for use in sportsturf. It's designed to hold water after it gets completely soaked, but to allow water to pass through and not pool on top. This is helpful for grass because it needs to stay dry but really suffers during extended periods without water resupply. In bonsai you are constantly watering, so your issue with turface will constantly be that it either repels the water or holds way too much of it, depending on how you water and other soil components. It's possible to get the results you're talking about with perlite:coir, which won't hinder the tree's development and has way less chance of accidentally giving you root rot or dehydration issues.

@Bonsaify 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks Pedro! And to more directly answer your question - I actually think using it as the substrate in the auxiliary container when creating a ROR or exposed root could be useful. But since I don't keep it around I wouldn't use it. If you have extra, you could use it up that way. Otherwise, use coarse washed pumice, or coarse lava, or even just coarse (e.g. 5/16"+, 8mm+) gravel / rocks. But, you might want to test the Turface one a single plant and compare to other options first - I think the problems it creates might actually just slow down your tree.

@denvernow7294 2 жыл бұрын

@@Bonsaify Thanks to both of you! I've tried a few different ways to get the roots that will be exposed to not divide and grow fine roots until they reach the bottom pot, but to no avail. I always end up having a tangled mess of the top part of the roots that I have to prune heavily and leave the finer ones at the bottom. The closest I've gotten was keeping the bottom pot more watered than the top on to make the roots search for water before they start bifurcating. I'll keep experimenting but I agree Turface might just slow shoot growth etc which I don't want because I'm attempting to thicken branches as well. Back to the drawing board.

@oliveambros9887 9 ай бұрын

Aakadama pumice, lava rock is so expensive. And difficult to find.

@ronniebruce 2 жыл бұрын

I've gererally used akadama/lava/pumix mixes for all my bonsai. How does the the perilite+coco coir mix handle with water retention? Does it dry quickly or perform similar to an akadama/lava/pumice mix?

@Bonsaify 2 жыл бұрын

Water retention for the perlite mix is MUCH higher than for APL. More than twice as much water. This is good for young plants, and allows for less frequent irrigation, but can be a problem if you are growing pines and don't realize that they need to dry down a certain amount each watering cycle. But overall it's a fantastic option for young plants.

@ronniebruce 2 жыл бұрын

@@Bonsaify thanks for the info!

@denvernow7294 2 жыл бұрын

We came here for the reasons and why! 🧐🤣

@josephcutler8870 Жыл бұрын

Would you recommend these for a succulent like jade or adenium desert rose ?

@Bonsaify Жыл бұрын

I do grow portulacaria in both of these mixes. Although our area is quite cool so they are not fast growers here. I have never grown desert rose...so not sure.

@petermaggio24 Жыл бұрын

Is the perlite mix good for succulents? Specifically the dwarf jade?

@Bonsaify Жыл бұрын

I grow them in it. But, I've not tried them in other mixes much so I can't say for sure. They seem to grow in pretty much anything as long as your weather is warm. They're not as susceptible to root rot as other succulents.

@rubber800 6 ай бұрын

Hi Eric, how do you prevent the perlite from floating to the top when watering. Over time, doesn't the perlite accumulate at the top and the coco at the bottom?

@Bonsaify 6 ай бұрын

The perlite can't float on itself...e.g. with perlite as the main component you get good water penetration so there is no ponding for it to float on. I have not observed separation over time in my operation.

@rubber800 5 ай бұрын

@@Bonsaify Hey Eric, thanks for your reply. I tried your mix of perlite and coco coir and i must say, there is indeed no seperation. Looking forward to growing out young material with perlite and coco!

@micahtayaba6847 3 ай бұрын

Dose your coco coir ever turn black ?

@sergiog3792 6 ай бұрын

what is your ratio for maples. I also live in the san Francis area along the coast. it never gets hotter than 80 its rare we have the ocassinal heat wave but its short lived

@Bonsaify 6 ай бұрын

You can use 50-60% akadama and the rest pumice and/or lava for a moderate growth rate. Wash the pumice or lava prior to using it. You can use a 1:1:1 mix if you want faster growth. Watering will be a bit different depending on the ratios.

@lovegardeningplants 4 ай бұрын

I have been using your perlite/choir mix its drying out abit I am thinking of capping it with a pine mulch do you think it a good idea?

@Bonsaify 4 ай бұрын

Top dressing isn't a bad idea, and pine mulch/bark is fine. It also helps prevent wind/dry perlite from being annoying.

@lovegardeningplants 4 ай бұрын

@Bonsaify I really appreciate that you guys take the time to reply to your fans just wish I could visit your nursery

@michaels1331 Жыл бұрын

Eric, I've read a lot about coco coir having a high salt content and therefore, the need to rinse it. Do you find that to be true?

@Bonsaify Жыл бұрын

Has not hit me as a problem - but most commercially processed coco coir is already heavily worked, rinsed and pH adjusted. Just make sure it says "Low EC". Here is a blurb I found on google: "Low EC coco peat means the level of salt within the product is low. On the other hand, high EC coir pith indicates the amount of salt is substantial. Since most plants can only grow using coir pith with low EC, it is important that you choose the one that has an overall EC level less than 0,8." Quoting this article: tropicoco.vn/about-the-figure-ec-of-the-growing-media-coco-peat-4209/#:~:text=Low%20EC%20coco%20peat%20means,level%20less%20than%200%2C8.

@themichaellerner 2 жыл бұрын

Do you buy you coco coir in bricks or loose? Can you offer any suggestions on the easiest way to obtain and use it in relatively small quantities? Thank you, as always, for your guidance.

@Bonsaify 2 жыл бұрын

Coco Coir is available at most hydro shops, and if you just Google it you'll also have plenty of online purchasing options. Less common at home centers but I'd guess some have it. Not sure about landscape supply places (e.g. because it's not domestically made it's not available by the cubic yard). We use the loose stuff, but I believe the only difference is that the bricks contain less moisture and need to be broken up. Obviously that saves on shipping weight and volume.

@themichaellerner 2 жыл бұрын

@@Bonsaify Eric, thank you for your reply. I was aware of online options but will look for loose material because dealing with the bricks seems like a nuisance.

@DarthMasiah 2 жыл бұрын

@@themichaellerner the bricks are not as bad as they seem as far as handling. i just toss one into a bucket and dump some water on it. come back later and add more water if you see dry parts and its ready. i like the uniform particle size of the bricks, too.

@themichaellerner 2 жыл бұрын

@@DarthMasiah Thanks for the input and encouragement.

@nate081304 Жыл бұрын

Often pet stores will have coco bricks in various sizes in the reptile section for affordable prices.

@GMBricks 4 ай бұрын

I do not have pumice ready available in my area, is that ok if i mix my soil with 1:1 akadama/lava rock instead for maple tree? I'm planning to repot my maple.

@Bonsaify 4 ай бұрын

Replace the pumice with perlite, and be sure to wash the lava first.

@GMBricks 4 ай бұрын

@@Bonsaify thank you 🤩

@Cory_J 7 ай бұрын

Do you sift and/or rinse the perlite?

@Bonsaify 7 ай бұрын

If it has a lot of fine particles sifting is a good idea - so it depends on the grade of perlite you get. But tbh sifting perlite is a nightmare due to dust...washing in a sifter could be a good alternative to avoid dust.. (I also recommend washing for pumice and lava.)

@Cory_J 7 ай бұрын

@Bonsaify Thanks. I always sift and wash my bonsai soil, but wasn't sure if it was necessary with perlite and early development. Washing the perlite in a commercial operation must be an enormous job!

@Bonsaify 7 ай бұрын

We don't. We buy a grade that is mostly coarse particles. It's not as clean as it would be if we washed or sifted it, but at the moment that's not possible. I have envy for operations that have soil automation tools. Lol.

@lovegardeningplants 5 ай бұрын

Do you have much problems with perlite floating to the top?

@Bonsaify 5 ай бұрын

The perlite can't float on itself...e.g. with perlite as the main component you get good water penetration so there is no ponding for it to float on.

@lovegardeningplants 5 ай бұрын

@@Bonsaify Thankyou Eric I enjoy your videos 😊

@abelmarin9670 Жыл бұрын

Which mix is better if you answer me thank you

@Bonsaify Жыл бұрын

It's like asking whether you should buy a truck or a car. What are you trying to do? A car will not help you haul lumber and rocks, but a truck will not allow you to carry 4-5 people. Think about whether you want fast growth or moderate-slow growth. For young trees you want fast, for older trees you want moderate-slow growth. One is not better than the other, they both are useful for different reasons.

@jc-wx3sm Жыл бұрын

Just to confirm, if the two mixes were the same price would you still use the coco and perlite for young trees?

@Bonsaify Жыл бұрын

Yes, because plants grow faster in that mix. Price is a secondary concern, not the primary reason.

@jc-wx3sm Жыл бұрын

I tried about 75% perlite and 25 potting soil and love it. Would coco coir be much different? Should I get coco coir "pith" vs "fibers?"

@Bonsaify Жыл бұрын

@@jc-wx3sm No, potting mix in this scenario (being normally mostly peat moss) is about the same. The consistency of the coir we use is like peat moss anyway - fine with some fibers, but not a lot.

@lovegardeningplants 4 ай бұрын

10:15 is there any cocoa core in this mix

@Bonsaify 4 ай бұрын

No, just Akadama, pumice and lava.

@lovegardeningplants 4 ай бұрын

@Bonsaify I am excited to try this soil recipe this year. Thankyou again

@jilllunsford9614 8 ай бұрын

PLEASE HELP ME!! I NEED YOUR ADVICE I hope you can help me I don't know if I did this right or if it's completely wrong I did 1/3 vermiculite about 1/3 perlite and 1/3 of a soil that kind of gritty with wood chips in it. This is for my juniper bonsai. Now I'm wondering how often do I water and how do I know when to water it cuz it feels so weird it's kind of hard to tell how dry it is. I DON'T WANT TO KILL MY PLANT PLEASE HELP ME. Thank you so much!!!! Plus you have a new subscriber

@Bonsaify 8 ай бұрын

Hmm. Soil meters don't work on this type of soil. I would say familiarize yourself with what it looks like right after watering - then wait a day or so - and stick your finger in there. If you feel moisture in abundance then you can wait to water. Junipers like more water than pines, but they don't like to be constantly wet (especially in the bottom of the pot.) How often to water is so variable - depending on season, temperature, species, sun exposure, etc. that you have to do your own experimentation. Learning how to water in a given soil is one of the reasons why many growers try to be consistent with media. Hope that helps...

@jilllunsford9614 8 ай бұрын

@@Bonsaify thank you so much!

@oliveambros9887 9 ай бұрын

Is there anything to substitute them?😊

@Bonsaify 9 ай бұрын

Akadama is not easy to replace. But if you think of the soil in general you can be successful growing with perlite, bark and coco coir or peat moss. The ratios are still important. I know an old-time grower here in the bay area that grew Japanese black pines in perlite and bark for 40+ years. He watered very little and his trees were stunted because of that. If you look at "The bonsai supply" their all purpose mix is generally a good substitute. Where are you located?

@oliveambros9887 9 ай бұрын

@@Bonsaify thank you

@oliveambros9887 9 ай бұрын

@@Bonsaify western Canada

@jimporter Жыл бұрын

My problem with perlite is that it floats out of the pot.

@Bonsaify Жыл бұрын

In this application it does not, because you're not clogging the drainage with too much peat moss. That said, it does do some other annoying things - like blow away when its dry and windy.

@lovegardeningplants 4 ай бұрын

How big is the perlite in your propergation mix ?

@Bonsaify 4 ай бұрын

3/16" approximately.

@lovegardeningplants 4 ай бұрын

@Bonsaify thankyou. I have found 3 small cotoneaster microphyllus that I want to grow out in grow bags make cuttings and airlayers from

@Bonsaify 4 ай бұрын

Go a bit heavier on the coco - 30% or add some fir bark also. I've found that cotoneaster don't like just perlite as much.

@lovegardeningplants 4 ай бұрын

@@Bonsaify what size grow bag would I need for cotoneaster microphyllus to grow fully grown? How much fir bark should I add Thankyou

@9daywonda 2 жыл бұрын

Very educational, my man. This might seem like a stupid question but why do you want root division. I have heard of people using unscented cat litter for soil mixes as it is cheaper than Japanese akadama.

@Bonsaify 2 жыл бұрын

Well, it's a sign of health in the roots and that they are finding what they want rather than just running through the soil to find it elsewhere. More tips = more ability to move water = a healthier plant.

@jasonkim3287 Жыл бұрын

Isn't perlite floating?

@Bonsaify Жыл бұрын

It does that in mixes where there is no matrix. Mixed at 90% Peat and 10% perlite the soil will break down, and even initially have some resistance to water flow, which leads to pooling on the surface and the perlite then floats. In this mix in a pot with proper drainage that doesn't happen because the water cant pool.

@adrianrainbow4106 Жыл бұрын

Dodgy info alert, perlite and coco coir, are available way more cheaply at cannabis grow shops.

@denvernow7294 2 жыл бұрын

Decomposed granite? Is that similar to rotten marble? 🤔

@Bonsaify 2 жыл бұрын

Didn't know there was such a thing (rotten marble that is). But generally decomposed granite refers to small pieces of the stone that normally form as part of freeze/thaw and weathering. If you hike in areas where granite is prevalent, you'll see that the areas around the granite sheets are made up of a mix of decomposed granite and decomposed organic matter. In California at least, it is commonly available at landscape supply yards. But it's very heavy and is essentially like a coarse sand. Less porous than Tuff/Scoria/Lava.

@dacquetvincent4926 2 жыл бұрын

La zéolithe ne s'effrite pas en hiver avec les températures négatives.

@sadoldgit313 Жыл бұрын

I never use Perlite, it blows away too easily! I prefer Vermiculite, does the same job but doesn’t blow away so easily. I also use Diatomaceous Clay sometimes called Molar Clay instead of Acadama. It has all the same properties except it doesn’t break down like Acadama it is readily available and is about the third of the price. It is often sold as non clumping unscented Cat Litter, in the UK it’s branded as Kitty Litter and retails at around $20 for a 30Ltr bag.

@kestane123chesmo Жыл бұрын

im amazed a pine can grow in 80% perlite and 20% coco, is that even possible, are you not adding nutrients to it

@Bonsaify Жыл бұрын

Of course I'm adding nutrients to it but that's not part of the soil, that's part of the fertilizing regimen. Keep in mind that air penetration is very important to JBP roots.

@kestane123chesmo Жыл бұрын

@@Bonsaify can you be so kind and tell me an inorganic soil mix for japanese maples im growing in an unheated apartment balcony, please keep in mind i cant get akadama here in Turkey and summers are viciously hot. Thanx for replying by the way, Im new to bonsai and Im struggling with a medium.

@Bonsaify Жыл бұрын

So, basically you want one or two components that are about 3-5mm in particle size. Lava (aka tuff or scoria), Pumice, Zeolite, coarse sand or perlite, etc. Then you want one or two components that act like organic matter - like akadama, bark, coco coir, peat etc. The mix components should ideally be all chunky/particulate, and not small. Coco doesn't really satisfy that but in low proportion it still works. So the standard soil mix being 1:1:1 Lava:Pumice:Akadama, you can sub one of the components so it's: 1:1:1 Lava:Pumice:Bark, or 1:1:1 Zeolite:Perlite:Bark. Etc. You will get different results with different mixes, so test a few. Or ask folks locally what they are using (e.g. what soil components do local nurseries use?) The difference between nursery soil and bonsai soil is that bonsai soil is designed to not break down as quickly, so there is less organic matter generally. The mix of 80:20 perlite coco is a lean mix, 30% coco might be better, but perlite is adequate to sub for both lava and pumice. Although I may start mixing it 1:1:1 Lava (or pumice): perlite: coco.

@kestane123chesmo Жыл бұрын

@@Bonsaify thank you greatly 👏👏👏👏 ive been researching this for a year now, ill try this mix

@kestane123chesmo Жыл бұрын

o.k. its me again, sorry to bother you again man, but i need your experience here, in my mix theres going to be lecat, red pumice, vermiculite, perlite, coco peat, pine bark, sand and zeolite in equal proportions, i will fertilize in spring with NPK osmocote. Will this be good for japanese maples ? Would you approve of this or change it ?