Very cool like the 70 gto its on my wish list to own.

😂

LoL now that is a meeting I would like to attend 😂👍

That’s just great! Free advertising thanks buddy.

Been there before too. Drum brakes are Sensitive. You are right it’s an interesting ride, all the more reason to Swap over to disc brakes

Right on!

Glad it was helpful!

Yes it is. Just not as flexible as I used to be.

Yes much easier off the car for sure. I paint Mine a cast grey to look similar to the bare metal.

I will do that. I used a vacuum style bleeder to draw the fluid thru. Less mess and chance of getting brake fluid on fresh paint.

Awesome! Glad to help and nice to know another car is coming back to life too.

Thanks! I see that working great.

Interesting, did you go with a different master cylinder then the factory disc brake one?

@@VinylVillageGarage Yes, Made a phone call to Wagner lockeed brake company, they said the manual master cylinder for disk brakes takes a 1 inch bore piston and manual drum master was 15/16s and they gave me the correct P/N# for the 1 inch bore master. I like the Wangner masters over all others because you don't have to deal with them pain in the ass wire bails to pop off to check the fluid. With all Wagner masters it's only one 1/2 inch bolt in the middle and the top lid is off. Much more EZ in my opinion. The Wilwoods are waaaaay to pricey in my opinion. I got the correct NOS Wagner master off Ebay for $46.00 from a government supply vendor. Yes I did my homework. Still got to get a shorter push rod or cut & re grind the ball end as the push rod is about 2 1/4" shorter than the power push rod. My car, my rules 😎😎 That's what happens when you have owned the same bird for 47 years. So far I have changed my 66 Olds 442 H/T & 442 Convertable over to manual disks, my 70 Chevelle from power to manual disks and my 68 400 Bird will all be manual disks and my 68 RS/SS Camaro I changed it over to manual disks all with Wanger Masters. That center bolt is VERY handy over them stupid wire bails. I build what I know works best for me and is CHEAP !.

Thanks. I did some reading a while back about bore size in relation to disc vs drum and power to manual and just never felt like it was a clear answer. Have a friend with a 1970 c10 wants to do a manual disc conversion is why. Appreciate the insight.

Very welcome, our TSC stores in Indy normally has it. I don’t know if that is nationwide

Yes it is and it seems there are a few that don’t see the value.

Thanks!

Definitely not a bad idea. I use a vacuum bleeder and have had great success that way Myself

Some.master cylinders Don’t have they because they are solid. If yours was missing your brakes would not work. Just pointing it out to save some grief for new installs

Thanks for watching, at this rate you will have seen everything soon. I guess I should make more videos. 🤣 thanks again

@@VinylVillageGarage Yesss!😄

Anytime friend, i might have to make an detour south and see your bird. It’s looking really nice.

@@VinylVillageGarage That would be awesome.....someday when i get it back lol.

I have a little free time this summer so I may have to make it happen

@@VinylVillageGarage sounds good to me. We will have see how it goes and try and figure something out this summer.

Sounds great.

Right on. Thanks

Normally the brake pedal is slightly higher then the gas pedal. Then when depressed the brake pedal is the same height of the gas pedal.

Anytime friend

Thank you for the info , your doing a great job on the car and the videos, I like the autumn bronze dash

I wasn’t sure about it in the beginning, I see it coming together now and it will make nice custom touch

Yes especially when first bleeding. Or doing a repair on an older system that had a leak. Its been bad enough that I had to open a bleeder screw on the side that was working and stomp on there brake pedal to shift it back. In a perfect world that valve should be replaced but good luck getting 50 year old lines off

@@VinylVillageGarage thank you. Have you ever used the little plug with the pin on it in the light switch hole to hold it in place

I have not yet, normally short stroke the brake pedal so not to shift the valve until I get most of the air out. Then bleed as usual

Cool. Was your car a factory power brake car? If so did it have that bracket on the pedal?

@@VinylVillageGarage it was factory manual drums all around .. original 6 cylinder car

Btw . Where can u order that bracket on the pedal?

Thanks

Used to be available from almost every restoration supplier, it seems they are on back order from most suppliers. When you do find them they sell for $15

Anytime, thanks!

Are you not using the factory booster or master cylinder? The bottom hose with a booster should get you the correct setup.

From my experience yes, the only exception is the 1969 also has a v8 or 6 Cyl steering linkages that are not the same.

This car has all new brake lines installed and they are for cars with this set up. Now your car I am assuming you have factory lines still, if so they won’t reach. Need to make or buy new lines to get that proportioning valve to work

Brake fluid pressure loss switch. If you have a leak the valve shifts and blocks off the leaking size so you still have brakes and when that happens it trips that switch and turns the red “brake” light on in the instrument clutster

This car still had it on the pedal. They used to sell them aftermarket but seem to be on back order. There is a template online you can print and fabricate one.

Not a bad idea.

Very good question I have to try to install a z-bar on a car that was fully assembled it might be possible but I can’t say for sure

This car was factory power brakes had one fortunately but i did some searching online they used to be available several places for like $15 bucks. It seems they are on back order, no surprise there. I am sure someone has one someplace or they are simple enough to fabricate Maybe I should make a couple.

It was available at classic industries part 14298. It shows back ordered right now. I checked a few other places same thing. Must be like most everything else, short supply.

Yes both holes should be there.

I have used a fluid vacuum pump to bleed them, works good and keeps the fluid cleaned up and off fresh paint.

I don’t have a 1968 manual to reference it might not be in there. I have a friend with a 68 dealer part manual I will have him look at it. Buy my experience has been of the three first gen birds that I have seen that came with FACTORY power assist didn’t matter disc or drum that bracket was on there. I did a disc conversion on my first bird years ago and didnt have that bracket and just never liked how the pedal seemed high for driving,‘stopped great! Then while tearing car apart And saw that bracket for the first time I did some homework and everyplace I looked it was for the brake light switch for power brake cars. Then i located a bracket and readjusted pedal Rod length and brake switch on my first bird much happier with pedal height. I could switch from the gas back to the brake pedal and felt much more natural.

@@VinylVillageGarage So just to be clear, Are you saying that this bracket in addition to locating the brake switch as a reference point for operation, that it also limits pedal return travel? I have never had an issue with a brake pedal height either? I'm not questioning your authenticity about this bracket, quite the contrary, I'm curious if this was one of those mid-year type factory changes that was perhaps not included on early year production? Did '67 have this setup? hmm.

I can’t guarantee 1967 I haven’t seen one sign my own eyes yet. I have seen them on 68 and 69. But the reproduction bracket is listed as 67-1969. So now I am curious myself.

Looks like all 1967-1969 power brake cars has this bracket

@VVG Firebird Restoration Station yes sir that's right all power brakes car's had this bracket

Yes It does.