Glad i could help others with this!

Thank you for that comment. The bottle makes the whole process fast and easy and gives you a really uniform application.

Your welcome! 😁

Thank you, very much appreciated 😁

Yes, but as you mentioned, no touching it.

Your welcome 😁

No problem!

Thank you 😁

Thank you for explaining this.

If you seal the board with a food safe sealer, then the borax method can work. The only problem is you dont want to rub it, it can potentially smear. In an ideal scenario, you would really like to get your power set to where it burns the wood, without digging into the wood. I call this a perfect surface burn. It will be black, but not go into the wood. No smudging as well. That is trial and error, and can change depending on wood type.

Your welcome!

Noted!

Yes, if you finish/seal it with food safe epoxy. If you try to seal it with an oil, it will likely just smudge. If you are doing cutting boards and similar items, i would dial your laser in to get perfect surface burn. You can check out my video on getting high details. I cover perfect surface burn. It will give you the darkest outcome without digging into the wood or charing it.

Thank you. My software is called Luban, and it is proprietary to my machine due to the machine being a 3 in 1 - 3d printer, laser, and cnc machine. I could use lightburn as plug in, but this software is very solid as is, and unfortunately, it's only for Snapmaker machines to my knowledge.

I don't really use Lightburn, but with certain image types you can select dot mode (The laser will pause and pulse at regular intervals along the path, instead of burning/cutting continuously). You can also get nearly the same function using dither mode (Dithering technique tries to reproduce shades of gray by pixelating image of incredibly small black dots). I choose dot fill because it works like pixels in a tv. Individual dots create a higher quality image. It also gives better detail on greyscale images as well, creating a uniform shading, going from black to white.

@@MadeByMervich Thanks for the detailed reply. It makes sense..

Your welcome!

That could potentially work, but I feel certain that even then if you touch it it will smudge. The laser is burning small particles, so I dont think you'll ever be able to successfully remove all of them.

Q-tip is your best bet for cleaning up. You can do the laser engrave, spray the stain, then clear coat it.

Just for darker engravings on wood.

Welcome to the world of laser engraving, and Im glad you found my channel. You would set the power for each individual image. In this video, I had already done all my settings prior to recording to keep the length of the video down to minimum. Doing the settings for 12 images and 12 text individually is pretty time-consuming. If I was doing one image, I would only make settings one time for the image. And if the image is in greyscale, the darkest part of the image would be at full power (what ever you set you max power at) and it would surge down as the blacks get lighter, on its own, due to the algorithums in the software your using.

Thats a good question.. im unsure what the reaction may be taking that approach. Thats definitely something ill look into trying to see how that may work.. 🤔

If you clear coat first, the Borax won't penatrate the wood so you'd be defeating the purpose of using Borax.