Can you share the amazon link for that part? Thanks

Glad I could help!

I read on the Bosch tech support site, that the replacement inverter needs to have the exact same voltage and control signal... Did you verify this is true for yours? Or is it working otherwise?

Excellent! Well, now you have a spare inverter

If it is an AC style compressor it will run off of an ac style start run relay device. Check with your preferred appliance parts supplier for appropriate style, and part number.

Most of the manufacturers have different communication voltage specifications, though most of them are the embraco system. I dont think I've ever seen the exact reading match the actual spec. Typically if there is a voltage value at that communication cable it will run. If theres no value then the control that feeds that voltage is bad. Its seldom that the inverter, and control fail at the same time

I have this same issue with Bosch. It's broken down again. We fixed it the first time 5 years ago and now it broken again. Bosch is garbage.

My one humming loud at night during day r

Those are the details for that particular repair.

@@toddolsen995 I'm not sure what that reply means. I was excited to see this repair as I have the same fridge and same problem (if the compressor is okay). Your video was great until you stared doing things to the inverter off camera. Wish I could see what you were doing.

@@corrie-annclutchey6780 Those are all of the details that I have available. A common degree of electrical knowledge, troubleshooting, and metering ability is paramount for this type of repair. If you have the correct inverter replacement part number, the wiring from the old component should connect to the new one with relative ease. Check the voltage values on the old device, which should be around 110 to 120 volts at the power supply line, and 2 to 8 volts at the smaller communication wires. Then ohm out the three pins at the side of the compressor. All ohm values should read the same between the pin combinations at the side of the compressor. Between roughly 5 and 9 ohms. If they read proper, then it's time to install the new inverter run device. Take a picture of the old wiring, and set the new one up identical to the old one. It the ohm values at the compressor are not the same, it's time to shop for a new fridge. If they are the same the new inverter will most likely make the unit work again.

@@toddolsen995 You don't understand corrie-ann's question. The question really is: How to switch the old cabling for new? ESPECIALLY those metal U shaped connectors connecting to prongs. They do not just pull out or or disconnect like the white plastic connectors. And they are CONNECTED TIGHT.

She wants to see what happened between 9:40 mark and 11:30. There are a couple U shaped metal connectors connected to prongs that I can't detach.

If thats the case i would check the wiring to the fan from the voltage source confirming continuity at these connections. Voltage should be coming from the electronic control that feeds it. If there's not a wiring diagram you may have to call bosch to get one. Confirmation of intact wiring is key in the first place though, thats where most people get it wrong but just ordering parts that may not be needed. Thorough multimetering cannot be overlooked.

You're welcome

Sorry, i didnt get a message notification. Without the actaual wiring diagram im shooting a bit blind, but generally I'd tape the door switches, and see if the interior fan(s) are cycling, if so go the the compressor, and meter voltage there. If all is quiet, and no volts at the compressor pull the main board, check connectors at or near it. Can u get a diagram from bosch? If not inspect the board for damaged relays, signs of arcing, etc....do we have good neutral, and ground? Its hard to aalk through without the proper diagram, but turning over as many stones possible will help eliminate potential non issues.

Certain wire connections have a "safety" catch at the female blade connections. They have to be depressed with a small screwdriver head. Not all models have this. They are really small to spot.

Hmmmmm, I would say its a bad compressor then. Is the inverter that you purchased a new oem part? It is possible that the part is bad. Of the 200 + inverters I have replaced there have been a couple failed compressors with that scenario

Sounds like you have a coolant leak. Call around in your area too see if anyone does sealed system work on that machine.

I'm thinking the signal voltage has to be higher(4 volts and upwards) but its more complicated than that..the frequency also has to be higher..its not a pure dc input....its a square wave.My compressor did exactly the same thing when i replaced the invertor.Now thinking it a control board problem.

If the compressor is indeed running but no ice on the evaporator that is an indicator of a sealed system leak

An important part of the repair is making sure the hermetic pins ohm out to the same resistance values. The three pins on the side of the compressor that you remove the harness wire from should read around 6 to 7 ohms of resistance in all configurations. For instance, ohm the upper 2 pins then the left to lower and right to lower....basically all configurations, and the ohm values should be the same. If not then I am skeptic of the integrity of the compressor. If they read the same values, then you should be ok with installing a new start device with proper results.

@@toddolsen995 Yeah This was the biggest part of your video and the first thing I wanted to check. I am never going to see an old refrigerator in the ally the same again. #strippingitforparts

Not sure i understand the question. If the airflow to the fridge from the freezer is full of ice you may have an issue with the defrost system, or the door may have been Left open . It will need to be thawed out if that is the case. I hope that helps

@@toddolsen995 the air canal that flows into the cooler is dripping and freezes to a degree .... U can't see the canal after 3 days.

@@maklaren811 i see. Must be an obstructed dain line then. I use a steamer to clean those out. However a turkey baster with hot water may suffice. Also a piece of weedwacker line as a snake can also be effective.

Anti condensation is typically for areas with high humidity. Turning that on helps to reduce sweating around the door jambs. Not sure on the other switch. There's probably a description in the user manual.

If that's what the supplier specified, that is the one I would use. There are several inverters available. Problem is, they don't always label the output voltage, and communication specifications. If you hook up the wrong one it's possible to damage the compressor, then at that point you'd be shopping for a new unit.

Does the back of the freezer look iced up ?

@@toddolsen995 It had been, but we unplugged it and let the ice that had accumulated thaw for 24 hours until it looked like no additional water had accumulated in the bottom of the freezer....plugged it back in and let it run for a bit. It still wasn't cooling, but had apparently accumulated quite a bit of water in the drip pan again, so I revaccumed it out, used a can of compressed air and the vacuum again to suck out as much of the loose dust that remained from cleaning it earlier and plugged it in again. I can feel the compressor running, as it's warm to the touch, hear the motor kick in and out, hear what sounds like water circulating/dripping faintly and the fans are running in both sides of the fridge and the fan in the bottom behind the compressor is free flowing and running...as I mentioned, the self test doesn't display any error to indicate an electronic failure, so I'm stumped as to what to try before calling the service company.

Mine too!

Best bet is to call, or stop by your local appliance part supplier with model, and serial number off the machine, and do a proper lookup. Model badge is typically inside the unit on the walls, or ceiling.

Most of these failed inverter jobs i go to the cooling fan(s) are still running, but the compressor is not. To date I cannot say that I have seen an inverter control the fan(s). If the compressor kicks off i would be concerned about one of the windings having an issue. You'd have to meter for proper voltage at the inverter, if that's present remove the inverter, and meter the ohm values between the hermetic pins.

@@toddolsen995 okay thanks

These days its whichever one ge has in stock. Hard to say exactly which one your unit needs though. Its always best to do a part number lookup with the manufacturer though. The ones I stock are typically the wr49x10283 or wr87x29409 are similar. Thing is these are dc voltage for the communication wires. Some run ac current for the comm wires. Those are pretty rare in our area though, and I can't remember the part number for those

Repair clinic.com or reliable parts. It would be best to call them to make sure you're getting the correct part number. The screen runs on power provided from the communication control board which is on top of the unit. These operate on DC voltage, and would have to be metered to determine the fail point. If there's voltage at the screen then the screens bad. If no voltage then the comm board is bad.

Ok, whats the actual problem? Is the compressor running just not cooling, or is it not running at all? Also, the small harness typically measures 1 to 12 volts is what i have seen. The other bigger harness needs to have 110 to 120 volts, which is the actual power. The smaller connector is the communication voltage. Backing up though, if the compressor is running but not cooling it sounds like you may have a coolant leak, or blockage.

@@toddolsen995 thanks for your reply. No the compressor is not running at all. I got 120V going into the inverter and 2.5V DC going into it as well. I measure 0V on the output of the inverter so I am assuming it is bad? As stated, I bought an used inverter of eBay, could well be that I am dealing with 2 bad inverters? Where did you buy yours? I just watched your video again and can confirm the fridge is the exact same I have.

I am curious about the 2.5V DC, as soon as I plug the fridge into 120, I measure 2.5V, the voltage doesn’t change even if I run the test mode when I push +&- for 5 seconds. Shouldn’t the control voltage at least change when compressor is being tested during the test run?

Possibly a bad inverter. I've never had issues with the communication circuit on that so I couldn't say. I typically get parts from Reliable parts. You may also have the wrong inverter. You would have to call a supplier to get the proper part number, as there's several part numbers that may work with that machine.....too many details to get into here, but that's the short of it. There are 240 volt inverters that look similar, and maybee what you have. Also used parts is a crap shoot, so hard to say.

@@toddolsen995 I bet you are right. The inverter looks slightly different though. Could well be that this one is a 230/240V inverter. That sucks, I am going to reach out to the seller. I have not thought about it yet. I’ll let you know if I find out more! Thx for your help so far! 👍🏼

Generally speaking, if the cost to repair is more than half the cost to replace it may be time to move on. Or if you do not like the features of the unit, or it needs other repairs as well, maybee time to move on. Environmentally speaking, it is much better to repair👍

Mine is worse. Got a technician to try to troubleshoot. The service total cost was $325....he said that I need to get I inverter board and another circuit board replaced. It will cost around $1200. I said no way, we will get a new non-Bosch fridge.

My grandfather always said use the one that fits best

Some of them have a safety tab built into the connectors that you have to press to release. Other than that I either use needle nose, or small flat blade screwdriver to carefully, and smoothly remove them

Blue book cost value has this job around $435 I do believe. Don't quote me for certain, but depending on your location, ease of access, etc.... charges may vary

Bosch number is a 00647583. Not sure if that subs from a different number though. It is an embraco product, so you may be able to cross reference the embraco number on the inverter to find a bit more reasonably priced unit. Bosch pricing is a bit on the high side.

@@toddolsen995 Thanks. What is the Embraco PN you use?

@@tli311 not sure of the actual embraco number. It does have a 200D5948PO23 on it. That may or may not be the part number. I use the bosch parts as they come with our warranty work account.hope that helps!

@@tli311 Bosch number is a 00647583, EMBRACO part number might be VCC3 1156 XXX XX, The X correspond to your compressor model but also with the Fridge Model.

never mind it is below my mistake!! Thanks for the Video!

I don't have the part number offhand as we do not sell parts. Any supplier that you plan to purchase the part from would be glad to do the lookup. Just have your model, and serial number handy when you call them.

Perhaps turn the freezer temp to a lower setting. Sometimes the door dispenser water tube is foamed to close to the interior of the door. Can be a big problem.

Maybe. We need more information. Door switches will have to be taped shut as not all fans run when the door is open. Then if it still is not running, you'll have to meter for voltages at the wiring harnesses.

It is the same Bosch

You may have to refer to your users manual on this. Generally speaking though on a bosch unit, if you hold the options and settings + buttons for 5 seconds it should display the sabbath on or off feature. Depending on the unit you may have different display buttons and setting. Bosch does have a good customer service department though. Phone number may be on the model badge on the unit, or can probably be googled fairly easy. Hope that helps, and good luck. Todd