Wow...high praise indeed. Many thanks. Mike

Yes...I bought the wrong tool the first time I went to repair the brake lines on my Merc. The tool I use in the video below works great: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/d7t-lMmE0LCul2w.html Mike

Thanks for your comments.

Great news! Yes, I bought the wrong flaring tool first time round. Mike

Thanks for your comment - yes there is often some confusion as to which flare to you. Glad yours worked out. Mike

Thanks for your kind comments - really appreciated. I was the same before doing this video. Mike

Thanks.

Thanks for your comment. Mike

Thanks for your comment. In theory yes...but in practice, most people reuse the existing fitting and if it doesn't leak, you are good to go. Mike

You can't use SAE tools to make DIN flares, and vice-versa. OP1 with an SAE tool looks like a DIN bubble flare, but it isn't a true one and shouldn't be treated as one. As to which type you should use for which car, you just have to confirm which type the car uses. If (say) you're replacing a brake hose, you can check the flare type without having to disconnect anything by getting the new hose and looking into the end that screws onto the metal brake line.

Thanks for your comment. Yes - the female on the slave/master/caliper will determine the fittings to use. At approx 4.3 in the video it shows you how to recognise the different female fittings.Once you know the female fitting, you will be able to determine whether to use DIN or SAE. I'm not sure I would describe one type of flare as 'better' than the other - they are different but both work. DIN flares are not designed to be opened again and reused once tightened down. The type of flare to use will be determined by any fixed variables such as the female fittings on the slave/master/caliper.....and the origin of the car - UK or USA etc, Hope that helps. Mike

@@MikesMercsandothercars helped me out no end thanks for thaking the time

Hi - I am afraid that I am no expert on these vans so may not be of much help. You will struggle to flare stainless steel manually, and even steel is incredible hard to flare with simple hand tools. Is the leak from a pin hole or split in the hard line, or is it at a joint? I cant quite visualise the issue. How long is the fuel line and can this not be replaced? Mike

@@MikesMercsandothercars Hi Mike, many thanks for replying managed to find some on eBay will replace damaged ones and use as template to hopefully reproduce in ss or mild steel, thanks again.

@@johnmcgiv1 Hope it goes well. Mike

I know this is an old post but I just did the same thing with the same line and tool, and I found that by backing the tube up roughly 1.5-2mm from where it is supposed to sit forms a proper flare. I think it just because nicopp is so soft it is possible to squish it right down. I also just file the end flat after using a tube cutter, I didn't need to bother with giving a chamfer to the tube.

Thanks for your comment - to the best of my knowledge, all Mercedes R107's will have the same flares whether is Europe, USA or Japan. Mike

Thank you Mike

Thanks for your comment and sorry to hear you are having a problem. Steel brake line tends to be MUCH harder to flare than copper which could possibly be part of the problem. 1. Are you doing it in situ? 2. What kind of tool are you using? 3 I am assuming that you are doing the right kind of flare for the nuts you have? 4, Where do you live? Mike

Hi - I replied on your channel but can you confirm that you are using 'punch grease'? Mike

Thanks for your comment. I used a DIN tool to fix this Merc.....although I did have a SAE tool for this video. My next vid is all about fixing rusty brake pipe on SL55 AMG ....it was all going so well until the brake nipple sheared. Mike

Good to know - thanks for your comment. Mike

Thanks for your comment and pointing out my mistake. I have updated the description accordingly and really appreciate your feedback - its how we learn Mike

The grove is so you can “hopefully” cut an old flare off the tube, with minimal wastage