"This is called survivorship bias. You don't hear about the failures because those people are dead." Heh.

This is a DIN-standardized German comment for the algorithm.

I’m so glad I found this channel. I subscribed within 15 seconds of this video. Also, “You don’t hear about the failures because those people are dead” absolutely killed me. Keep it up. 🙌🏻

Loving your content dude, especially the odd dose of dry humour 🤘 - Taz.

I just spent ungodly amount of money to get new brake lines done and this video just adds salt to my wounds. Still funny tho

Here for the jokes. Somebody else does my brake lines. Thanks.

I’m blown away by how concise and useful this video is. No music, no yucking it up, no nonsense

Austrian here: Hey, Matt - Chop an old Jag up, or weld a Marcuswagen to a Model S Tesla and install a Lada engine into it for the lolz - fine - but NEVER dare to call this abomination, you posted a Schnitzel! NEVER! It has "Tunke" (Sauce) on it! Tunke makes the bread crumb coating on it go all soft and spongy and just awful! Schnitzel are to be touched by salt and a hint of lemon juice - nothing more! Only then, the delicious crunchiness of the coating, the freshness of the lemon, and the subtle taste of the salt can truly be enjoyed! ;) (This is meant to be funny. Background is, that Germans love their Schnitzel with Sauce, while Austrians HATE sauce on breadcrumb coated Schnitzel. And because we are still a little bit bitter about living in the rotting insignificant remains of a once world power, we like to try to force our way on everyone else. Especially, when it comes to a meal, thats named after our capital - Wiener Schnitzel - never mind, that we stole that from Milano.) But honestly: Enjoy your Schnitzel,your brake lines or your car the way you like it - even with Tunke, .... :) And keep your work up - we love it :)

I use an old double flaring tool like the 14.99 one you show on steel and the copper/nickel lines. I get every flare right the first time. The key is to cut the end square, deburr the inside and slightly chamfer the outside.

I swear you can read my mind... I'm in the planning stages of my build while I save up for a wedding, and I found your channel from your re-wire your whole damn car video. Yesterday I was planning brake system and wondering what I needed to do to make it from scratch. Now here you are again. Thank you!

Bro.... you are the definition of AI... (ACTUAL INTELLIGENCE) and much appreciated. Both from an intellectual and facetious standpoint. Keep it coming man.

Straight silicone grease, like Dow D111 or a good quality silicone dielectric grease, does not react with brake fluid and attack rubber parts. Make absolutely certain it does not contain any petroleum products in it. I've been using it when rebuilding calipers and wheel cylinders as a professional mechanic for 30+ years without issue. In fact, it will greatly extent the function of brake cylinders as it completely prevents corrosion. Not to mention re-assembly is much improved. I also use it when flaring and on the threads of bleeder screws to act as a viscous gasket when bleeding brakes. Works awesome. Just thought I'd pass on a a piece of knowledge. Just watched a few of your videos. I'm new to the channel. Subed.

I'm actually working with DIN/EN/ISO standards and OEM parts at our software company here in Germany so the brake line flare bit made me chuckle :)

You were spot on about the flaring tool. As a hobbyist, I hesitated to buy it as it does have a huge price tag. But as the saying goes - if you buy cheaply, you pay dearly. Today, I did my first brake line for my Morgan 4/4 and the flaring tool you recommended made it super simple. Without this video - I might not have dared to tackle this task myself. Greetings from the DIN motherland and a huge Thank you.

I love the "you know what, I'm just gonna buy one." Motive pressure bleeder has saved me soo much time on all sorts of jobs.

Hi , I've been working on and making brake pipes since the 1970s and have seen many horrible examples from so called professional workshops. It's so good to see someone who is proud to display their work for the whole internet to view.......I agree with your method's and uphold your workmanship and examples. Please carry on and perhaps people will once again find pride in their work ..😀😀😀

If you are inclined to incorporate loops into the lines, orient them horizontally so as not to trap bubbles. The self (gravity) bleeding advantage of mounting the master cylinder high on the firewall is lost if little bubble traps are built into the lines.

Pushing the brake pedal for your dad 😂😂😂 Brings back memories...

Some dual-cylinder brakes use a cross-over separation, rather than a front/rear split. (I.e. one drives Left front & right rear brake, the other right front and left rear.) That way, the result is a degraded but still balanced (half) system, less likely to misbehave than if one end's down..

This is an amazing video, didn't have to hear about aunt Mae's goiter or your life's history, just got right to the point and gave clear instructions at a good pace. Thanks

I like your style. Your casual attitude and narrating is entertaining! Plus I learned a few things along the way! Thanks Matt.

Very nicely done, Matt. Humorous, succinct, accurate. You nailed it! 😊👍

Dude...your information is spot on...sense of humor is on target...did I learn something, YES? Check twice when sliding on the nut, that its not backwards....Ugh! I did this twice.

I'm in the process of procuring a fleet of Triumph Spitfires to build a race car and have thoroughly enjoyed your videos. They are as comical as they are informative - a perfect combination for learning. Thanks for sharing your experiences and knowledge. I've been working on machines for some time but am by no means a master mechanic. Your tips and tricks along with your ingenuity are awesome! Keep it up and THANKS!

What a great video…I am about to make new brake lines for the first time in years, so glad I watched this! Thanks, Matt!

I have to say, this video came out at a good time. Replacing the 56 year old lines on my MGB was not really something I was looking forward to. I purchased the bulk line some time ago, now I know which tool I need to do the flaring. Thanks for posting this.

You're pretty awesome dude. I'm having brake issues on an old junker and had no idea what it took to build hard lines. This was incredibly educational and made me realize I am not qualified!

Great tip on using a dab of break fluid while flaring! I've also gravity bled brakes-to rid the system of air, it helps. Still need to bleed.

"You don't hear about the failures because those people are dead" 🤣 I'm stealing that

This comes out right as I'm thinking about replacing the brakes and lines on my car, awesome :)

You always create great content with the perfect amount of snarkiness. Great to see an actual engineer explain the “why” of your decision making and the comments where you say” do this and you will die” enforces your decision making content. I have done many lesser versions of what you do and it good to know that even those best in their field have also made mistakes.

Im building a classic car with little automotive experience , but plenty of industrial mechanic, machining and fabrication experience and I love how these videos are technical but still break down the automotive stuff to ppl like me. Excellent videos and the jokes got me cracking up over here!

And that's why your dad left... I'm dying here, love it. 😁👌

Thank You for a Great video! I twisted a wrench professionally for a number of years and brakes were one of my specialties. After watching this, I have to say, this is one of the most inclusive and succinct videos on brakes I've seen. You covered the basics and nailed the details. My 65 EV Ranchero is setup very much the same...... again Great Job!

When my Ranger was ready for new brake lines I took the step and bought all the fittings, pipe and flaring tool that I needed. Actually really enjoyed doing it, I did my best to follow the original shape of the existing lines and it looks pretty good. I even left some extra length at the front ready for when I body lift this summer.

These videos are a JOY. Just bought a '53 M38A1 Jeep and have lots to do on it. Learning a ton with your videos, and laughing along the way.

Commenting for the algorithm, also don't think ive laughed so much at a brake line video so thanks

Dankeschön, from Germany 🇩🇪

I wish every video on youtube was this good in giving a lot of good information while telling it in such a funny way! love it!

Thanks for enlightening a few more people on the concept of survivorship bias today. I've been watching a lot off tool reviews and the amount of "they don't make like like they used to" comments has my nasuea at a pretty high level atm.

Excellent show mate. I watch the whole thing smiling. 👍🏽

This channel is sooo fucking good man

Beautifully done info video! (50 years in fleet maintenance - now retired. And my wife from Korea makes great Schnitzel too! Lived in Germany for a total of 14.5 years! 😍)

I have a vacuum pump. I love it. I can do brake bleeding and brake flushing by myself. I wasn't too happy with the speed bleeders though. Making my own brake lines is still a little bit of a challenge for me. I just don't do it enough to get good at it. You do nice work. I really enjoyed this video.

Some great lines in this.

There's automatic proportion valve for the rear, also called fifth valve in some areas, to compensate brake force in correlation to load to the rear axle. It has a physical link/lever to transfer axle/body gap to the valve thus knowing the load.

The exact explanation I’ve been searching for. Getting ready to run all new braking system on an old Jeep. You just cost me a lot of money. Subbed

Cheapest and best method of bleeding that i've figured out is to use an appropriate length of clear tubing that will fit over the bleeder valve, run that loop and and back down in order to create an air lock, and then place the other end in an empty container. After that, you just open the valve and start pumping the brakes. The air lock will keep fluid on top of the bleeder so that any minor back flow doesn't suck in any air, and this eliminates the need to open, pump, hold, close, release, and repeat. The reason i prefer this method over a vacuum bleeder is because the vacuum bleeder tends to pull air past the threads on the bleeder valve which leaves you wondering if you've still got air in the system.

I've been using the Titan 51535 double flaring tool. It's been making perfect flares for me and you can make flares while the brake lines are on the car. The OEM Tools flaring tool can't make consistent flares compared to Titan. I'm also very surprised it only costs $40.

I want a T-shirt that says “all hail the algorithm!”

Thank you Matt. I'm ditching the ABS system on my 1992 Merc and I did pick up an adjustable prop valve. This rig had 4 wheel disc brakes before but now I've larger front brakes to add to the equation. I too like adding tools to my collection to make these car projects more competent and reliable. Purchasing said flare tool now!

That flaring tool is sick!!! I stripped out a bunch of crappy flaring tools, finally got a quality one. But this one tops the lot. Will buy 👍👍

Great video, but want to pick up a few points... Most cars have a diagonal split system. Same concept, just that one circuit goes to one front and the opposite rear wheel, the 2nd circuit does the other diagonal. This is to prevent losing just the fronts or rears and to give more stability when braking with just 2 wheels. The copper nickel line in the UK is called Cunifer, can you guess why? Also, those coils in pipe near the master is generally to increase fluid in the line and improve pedal feel, but it does all those other things you describe too... Finally those small pipe cutter often have a deburring tool built in.

Very informative, and very funny. I hope I don't ever really have to do this, but now I have an idea of what's involved. Most of my Ethernet cables don't have one of those little boot thingies for the same reason why you are required to forget one nut before flaring.

Thanks for this. I’m changing my brake lines on an old Ranger for the first time ever. I’ve never even heard of wheel cylinders or flares before, so this has been a lot of new info haha

Awesome video, thank you for taking the time to put this together. I have to reroute some brake lines due to my new headers and didn't have the slightest clue as to where to begin.

The flaring tool you show is great for making new lines on a build project... But pretty useless for repairs where a splice is needed to a line still on a car. There are great tools for that, and although a bit clumsy because of size, work fantastic. I use a Mastercool hydraulic tool, and am very happy with the results I get. (If I remember to put on the flare-nut)

All hail Al Gorithm!!

I learned from my dad too. However, he left some things out and is too cheap for his own good. Thanks for the video, these help loads with just the tool recommendations and usage alone. Your experience is a thick layer of icing on the cake. Subscribed.

I so could have done with this video a few weeks ago when my crappy Toyota decided to burst a line. Clever design they have at Toyota, the last two inches of line are uncoated, bent 180° and hidden under the wheel arch cover😉👍. Anyway, I learned all this the hard way but it's still nice to watch you do your stuff Matt. 👍

The word you're looking for regarding German standards is "precise" The Germans as a people are well known for their adherence to the letter of the law, if not the spirit so much, and as such they make sure the letter is so ironclad and immovable that there can be no cheekiness around specifics of this or that.

Use compression fittings on my brakelines - laughs in Swagelok.

Thanks super fast Matt !!!! Just bought an old nova now I can do my brakes.

Thanks for the tips and the humor. Both are useful and necessary when working on old cars.

I'm pretty straight till I get bent out of shape PMSL #PrideMonth, not that there's anything wrong with that....

it seems you've missed the part how do I tell if I need a double or bubble flare (i.e. different ports and nuts)

You are indeed the most humble person on KZfaq, sir! I giggled out loud when you said "A-mazing" because your delivery was so chill even though you just did boss-level shit. Thanks for making these videos

Everything you said is true… Wanting a refresher on running brake lines. All the mistakes you mentioned? Sitting here shaking my head. Yep, I remember doing that. Doh! Well done video.

In europe fwd cars usually have brakes on X config. FR + RL and FL + RR wheels. And thank god for the Germans.

If you mess this up, you fulfilled DIN 9000:2015. What DIN9000:2015 is, you might ask? Well, DIN9000:2015 defines what an error/mistake is.

Great video. just long enough to cover all relevant topics, dos and (more importantly) don'ts. Also level of humor is just right. TYVM :)

Man I appreciate your knowledge and wit.I have been through 1000's of you tube videos and you are legitimately the King.please accept this👉👑

Hail hail to the Almighty algorithm.

There is a third brake standard, the Japanese metric double flare. Used on japanese imports and they are a double flare, but with a metric nut. just a little pedantry

One thing the people who taught me and people who taught them failed to mention (or learn themselves), lube the flare when flaring. I figured that one out on my own later in life, with brake fluid of course, makes a huge difference! Nice video

I live in the Northeast. A few years back I decided to replace all my break lines on my 10 year old truck. I used the very tools you showed in your video. I also had purchased a service manual for any specs I may have needed. In the maintenance section for brakes there was a recommendation to flush the brake lines every 30K miles. I had never heard of doing that and no dealer had ever recommended that was due, even on my Corvette. The MityVac for pressurizing the brake system works great if working alone. Note: always use the recommended break fluid for your vehicle.

steel lines are the worst. rusts through in few years on new cars. copper all the way.

Okay, I gotta get this out of my system- You're not using imperial. You're using US customary. To be fair, there's no difference between a US inch and an imperial inch (it's internationally standardized), but there's a big difference when you're talking about volume. A US gallon is about 3.79 liters. An imperial gallon is about 4.55 liters. A US pint (≈ 473.18 mL) divides into 16 US fluid ounces (≈ 29.57 mL each). An imperial pint (≈ 568.26 mL) divides into 20 imperial fluid ounces (≈ 28.41 mL each). Okay, I feel better now. Happy #PrideMonth.

Wow. Beautiful video. I knew most of this but amazing for those starting out. BTW, i used one of those pressure bleeders that connect to the MC for the first time. I had always done the pump and bleed method prior. I think it blew out my MC and after it started leaking. So I would recommend sticking with whatever method you have done in the past, or the previous owner did.

Thank you for the video. Going to redo mine with stainless. Already have everything except the time. All the flexible I went OEM. You've helped me restore my Japanese KEI truck. 👍.

Im so mad at past mechanics.

"I like spending money on tools" *buys Snapon electric stuff that is demonstrably worse than Milwaukee* Yea Id say you like overpaying for tools too

Without a doubt, the best video on the subject. Thanks!

The ni copper line is really nice stuff. Really easy to work with. Bends easy, flares easy. It's all I use anymore.

This is the best break line video, Smart to the point and only the facts, so I wont be one of the dead ones! Thanks

love that flaring tool you have, i ended up with the cal-van one cause i do most work on body rarely do i make the line and then install. so the cal-van took a bit of learning but works great. i just got done with a 90 caddy that had sae one end iso other. for this there is no better way to do with out a bunch of adapters. nice video

This is genius and golden information, all in a fun spirited explanation. Cheers mate.

I have a new old 95 Subaru wagon and will need to make some brake lines in the future. Like many KZfaq videos you have made a difficult job seem doable, thanks for sharing your knowledge.

Best video on brake lines I have seen. Thank you.

Well: Matt, you just earned a sub. I honestly have never seen such a more complete description of how to do the complete brake job, including the flaring that's the part that scares me 😀 so i,m glad I came across this video keep up the great videos i subbed and liked you deserved it thanks again 👍

A video I don’t need now but glad to have watched it and saved for future use. Thank you

Great sense of humor and great teaching video! Great job!

This was excellent. Well explained, concise and entertaining. No boomady-boom music. No time wasted telling your whole life story. Oh, and I learned something too.

I spend way too much time watching automotive KZfaq, specially in the car modification niche and you by far have the best commentary to go along with your interesting builds

Excellent video! That's the kind of flaring tool I've been looking for for 40 years! Also that bleeder with the valve in it, never saw one of those! Could you make more videos.

Your content is the best I've seen to date. Keep it coming. Thank you

Thanks for the brilliant videos. I've watched 750 of them so far. I actually have my first polite suggestion I learnt from air conditioning land. When you're de-burring the flare, I usually try to do it upside down so that any bits of metal that come off fall to the ground, rather than falling into the brake line and eventually meeting with the softest part of your caliper piston seals :) I realise this is an old video, but I only just watched it. Thanks for all your educational content and your brilliant dry sense of humour. Are you sure you're not British? :)

I did the old school brake bleed system for years even working in a brake shop. Then once I was stuck without anyone to pump the pedal after repairs so i removed the bleeder on one wheel at a time when i saw the bleeder hole fill with fluid I put the bleeder back. Afterwards I checked the pedal hardness and I was surprised that it was excellent. I gently test drove and it was very good, so I drove and braked a little harder, still very good. I was going to arrange for a friend to help with a bleed the following weekend but the brakes were so good that I didn't do it. I have now done this many times even on ABS brakes and i have never been disappointed with brake performance. I would certainly do it differently if I encountered any problem. Keep in mind I only repair a single brake at a time, not disassembling and draining 2 or 4 brakes at once, and keeping the master cyl cover on and full to reduce leakage until the line is connected again. Complete one wheel then move on to the next, i don't remove the brake line until I know I am prepped and ready to connect the new part.

This is the most helpful video about break lines I have seen

This is a great video man. I'm redoing the brake system on my 74 Cushman Truckster, this will help alot