Huh? WTF.

Thanks for commenting, Good to still be here. George Indexed categories of videos. gsegmedia.com/?page_id=4657

David, yes terminology is a problem. So often we learn the wrong term and it sticks with us for life. I still call an adjustable wrench a Crescent wrench.

Good information David

@@897473 There is no terminology problem. Its actually 3 things or I could say 4: welding, braize welding, brazing and soldering. The one you show is actually braze welding. Brazing requires tight clearances to take advantage of capillary attraction. To call it brazing you would have to buttit tight, preheat the joint and fill it in one or few points and let the brass FLOW....no dipping along the joint necessary. Its common industrial often automated process. For repairs though, like cracked castings you may not always able to use capillary advantage. So you may need to bevel the joint and welding technic to fill it up sometimes in a few passes...

@@andriyshapovalov8886 Seriously: You should do a video on brazing and braze welding. You've explained the difference in one clear and concise paragraph. My concern is that if I tried to do the same I would just muddy the waters. It's too easy to overload the viewer, but you've made it simple and straight forward. Thanks, George-

@@andriyshapovalov8886 NO! you are wrong. In technical terms it is very clear that Welding is different from Brazing and also different form Soldering. To recap it all, again Welding is joining for example two Same Parent or Base metals using a filler metal (welding rod) with the same composition as that of the Base or Parent metals being joined together. On the other hand, Brazing is joining for example two Same Parent or Base metals using a Different metal with lower melting point as a Filler metal (brazing rod), and Soldering is the same principle as that of Brazing only that you are using a Different metal with a Much Lower melting point than that of a Brazing rod for example a Lead as a Soldering material. When you say Braze Welding that is absolutely Wrong! What you mean maybe is Braze Joining, or Weld Joining, or Solder Joining of Parent or Base metals. Also to add to this, Spacing or Gaps has nothing to do with the definition or differentiation of the Three processes. I know for sure because I am formally educated with these processes.

yes.

Franklin, thanks for viewing and commenting. Glad the video was helpful.

Is that because the oxyacetylene torch heats up too much? I guess if you were welding cast iron, the torch would be better than electric welders. keeping the pieces warm and slowing down the cooling process.

I wanna learn to arc weld my dads got one but we can’t put it in our garage cuz it needs 3 phase

Thanks for commenting. Glad you like.

+robert singleton Yes, these hands have served me well.

+Stephen Bennett Stephen, it could be a number of things. Check you tip and be sure it is clean with no obstruction. Try changing your mixture of oxygen/acetylene. Example: Turn the knob so you get a bit more acetylene or oxygen. May have to increase the pressure at your regulators. May have to hold your torch in a different position so the sparks don't fly up into the torch tip. Maybe holding the torch too close to the work you are welding. Try varying the distance between the blue cone anyou are d the metal you are welding. Make small adjustments. If and adjustment increases the popping, try the opposite. Let me know how it works out.

That's how you know that he knows what he's talking about

You might be as little rusty, but the skills you had then will come back with a little practice.

Thanks Darcy. Appreciate the comment.

George Goehl How have you been going,I love your work ,and learn so much .keep Strong.

+Dawn Sherper Dawn, thanks for viewing and your comments.

+Crank Cuffin Thanks Crank. Glad it worked for you. Thanks for viewing.

Thanks for commenting. I'm doing a KZfaq video on a gas saver. Can you get me some information on the SK Brazing gas saver? Please send to: ggoehl@gmail.com

Gas welding most often refers to welding steel to steel. (Although there are exceptions). I use brazing when I want to attach copper to steel, copper to copper, copper to brass, copper to stainless.

More fuel options? I only know of 2 that can be used to weld (acetylene and hydrogen), but there are way more that can be used to braze and those also tend to be more affordable.

There is not enough heat from a propane torch. I do not have a lot of experience with propane. You can anneal copper. Probably not enough heat to melt the brazing rod. Welding steel to steel takes more heat than brazing. You can increase the heat temperature with adding oxygen to propane. I have never used oxygen / propane so I'm not a good source for information. There are some videos you KZfaq for oxygen / propane brazing. Sorry I can't be more help.

+OC_VILLAIN Thanks for all your positive comments. George

Really appreciate you commenting. For more brazing and welding videos check out this link: gsegmedia.com/?page_id=4657

appreciate the comment. Look for more videos in the near future.

Thanks you. Was looking at that video and think it is time that I do that one again.

You got two years head start. i didn't start until I was 27. Embrace your mistakes, they are your best teacher.

Glad they were helpful.

Thanks, glad you like. More videos on the way this spring season.

Now I am not sure what you are asking. If I have the torch in my right hand and the rod in my left. Most generally I move from right to left. The torch flame is heating the metal to be brazed or welded and is ready to melt the rod when the metal is up to brazing or welding temperature.

Personally, I would braze. If that doesn't work out you can always grind off the braze and then weld.

I've never brazed any kind of tank so I'm not a good source.

+Reza Ahmadi Thanks Reza. I'll be doing more videos this year. In the meantime, here is a link to the complete list of my KZfaq videos listed in categories. gsegmedia.com/?page_id=2877

Just saw this post. I don't work with a lot of brass. I'd suggest looking at sites like this: www.speedymetals.com/information/Material79.html

Thanks for commenting. Always good to know if the videos are helpful.

Wow, you are a brazer. Curious to know what you are brazing. I'm sure that your brazes are a lot neater than mine. Bet you've got some tips you could pass along.

@@897473 I work for a company called Thermal Transfer, we make heat exchangers, which are pretty much identical to the condenser packs HVAC guys work on. The majority is copper on copper, but we do copper-brass, copper-steal, pretty much any metals they throw at us. Just 10 hours a day, 5 days a weak brazing about a 1,000-2,000 joints a day. leak percentage has to be less than 1 per 250,000 and they have to look perfect, no runs and a smooth consistent finish.

@@897473 as for advice: Higher heat for shorter time, we don't don't do a lot of pre-heating as we try to keep the overall strength of the system high. Heat too much and the copper over anneals and it bursts about 500 psi sooner than a unit that was brazed faster. (less heat is also a must when trying to braze when the joint is not perpendicular to the ground or the material will run to the bottom leaving the top barely covered. ) Also for the strongest joint you want the filler material to penetrate 3 times the thickness of the thinnest material you are connecting. You want to do as much as you can in one pass, the more you heat and more you come back to an area the more it runs, and the more likely you will develop a crack in the filler material (most common cause of leaking is overheating the joint/ other than just missing but that is fixed with practice) I prefer using 2% silver when brazing copper to copper or copper to brass. 18% flux cored rods for copper-steel. If you are looking for a pretty joint you make one pass to fill the filler material into the cavitation and a second pass with the flame further away to lay a nice smooth ridge around the joint. we never lay a glob of filler material and use the torch to spread it,, the best joint comes from laying rod right where you want it to go rather that coaxing it to move with the flame. However if you are working in low pressure system I'm sure you can get away with more. The proper air-fuel mixture is probably the greatest influencer on how easy it is to braze, a bad torch can make it near impossible to get consistent results, so a consumer grade propane torch might work, but it will make even a pro look like a greenhorn. I've never met a joint we couldn't braze no matter how dirty or what materials they want us to combine, we have joined razor blades together without melting them, we found an old steel fitting under a shelf that was almost indistinguishable and without cleaning we were able to braze it to a copper tube with just the 18% so while cleaning really helps, id say the filler material is even more important. sorry for the book, just never thought this information would be useful to anyone else.

Ah and as for PPE, (leather gloves, denim apron, and darkening glasses you will go blind after staring at that flame too long)

@@cjrouse9508 Thanks for this. It is going to take me some time to digest all of this. Appreciate you taking time to spell this all out.

Plumbers are soldering. Much lower heat. Can be done with propane, Here is a video on soldering copper pipe: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Zp51orpl1Ny1e4k.html

Joseph, if it was me I would braze either mild steel or stainless steel rod. You could use flat material, but I generally think of panniers being made of rod (round). Brazing would be easier than gas welding unless you are very familiar with gas welding. If you haven't done much brazing, buy a little extra rod for practice.

@@897473Thank you for your prompt reply and useful advice...I will be sure to take that into consideration.

Herry, appreciate your comment and viewing.

no

@@pmessinger you don't say?

+Jose Santana Jose, thanks for watching.