Break Testing Knots - Zeppelin & Figure 8 & Alpine Butterfly & Reever & Bowline & Double Fisherman

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HowNOT2

HowNOT2

Күн бұрын

We broke 6 knots end to end and in a bend (a loop). 40 samples total. Let us know on our discord page for our new series of How Knot to Tie Ropes on format and the testing you want to see. / discord
We tested a 7mm Edelweiss rope (www.edelweiss-ropes.com/en/cor...) with a 9.8kn MBS. We are not sure why Edelrid's 7mm rope is 14kn (www.edelrid.de/en/sports/acce... Do you know?
Carl Mitchell prepared all the samples and shipped them to us. Thank you! And thank you Bobby for breaking these!
➜➜➜A colored sexy spreadsheet can be seen at www.slackline.com/lotsofknots. Otherwise it is all below and all the forces are in KN
Knots -Zeppelin Loop Whip 9.05
Knots -Zeppelin Loop Whip 8.85
Knots -Zeppelin Loop Whip 9.05
Knots -Zeppelin Loop 9.1
Knots -Zeppelin Loop 9.6
Knots -Zeppelin Loop 8.9
Knots - Alpine Butterfly Loop 8.5
Knots - Alpine Butterfly Loop 7.95
Knots - Alpine Butterfly Loop 8.5
Knots - Figure 8 Loop 9.65
Knots - Figure 8 Loop 9.45
Knots - Figure 8 Loop 10.35
Knots - Reever Loop 8.25
Knots - Reever Loop 8.7
Knots - Reever Loop 8.45
Knots - Bowline 8.05
Knots - Bowline 8.1
Knots - Bowline 9.1
Knots - Double Fishermen’s Bend 19.3
Knots - Double Fishermen’s Bend 19.95
Knots - Double Fishermen’s Bend 18.2
Knots - Zeppelin Bend 18.35
Knots - Zeppelin Bend 16.2
Knots - Zeppelin Bend 16.95
Knots - Alpine Butterfly Bend Ends Parallel 11.25
Knots - Alpine Butterfly Bend Ends Parallel 17.5
Knots - Alpine Butterfly Bend Ends Parallel 18.55
Knots - Alpine Butterfly Bend Ends Perpendicular 13.1
Knots - Alpine Butterfly Bend Ends Perpendicular 12.75
Knots - Alpine Butterfly Bend Ends Perpendicular 9.4
Knots - Reever Bend 19.5
Knots - Reever Bend 18
Knots - Reever Bend 19.7
Knots - Flemish Bend 18.15
Knots - Flemish Bend 16.85
Knots - Flemish Bend 17.9
Knots - Sheet Bend 5.55
Knots - Sheet Bend 4.75
Knots - Sheet Bend 4.7
Bonus - butterfly in loop 14.9
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00:00 40 Samples to Test
04:14 Tour of knots
05:41 Zeppelin Loop with Whip
06:08 Zeppelin loop
07:17 Alpine Butterfly Loop
08:19 Figure 8 Loop
09:05 Reever loop
10:00 Bowline
11:01 Double Fishermans
11:49 Zeppelin Bend
12:16 Alpine Butterfly Bend
13:01 Other Alpine Butterfly Bend
13:48 Reever bend
14:27 Flemish Bend
15:07 Sheet Bend (Broke LOW)
15:37 Bonus Test
16:46 Conclusion WITH CHART

Пікірлер: 559
@HowNOT2
@HowNOT2 6 ай бұрын
Check out our new store! hownot2.store/
@wormball
@wormball 6 ай бұрын
your sheet bend is wrong, both free ends of the ropes should face the same side
@MB-jg4tr
@MB-jg4tr 5 ай бұрын
Please follow up with these knots in drop tests. Thanks
@chrisdecker7237
@chrisdecker7237 2 жыл бұрын
Ryan.... Please just..... never stop making videos. I'm totally enthralled. Thanks for what you do.
@OldSloGuy
@OldSloGuy 2 жыл бұрын
Your work is truly important. Ashley wrote his famous book of knots in the late 1930s. He used mostly 3 strand hemp cord since nylon was still in the laboratory until it got its start in women's hosiery and parachute cord during the war. Needless to say, twisted organic fibers behave differently than braided synthetic fibers. So certain properties like a tendency to jam with organics may not be as severe with synthetics, and other knots than seemed to be secure with organic rope will loosen or creep with synthetics if the load is cyclic. The old adage about tied, dressed and set is always good advise, but you now have the ability to inspect knots under increasing strain to see how they change shape under load. Some of these knots seem to get lumpy rather than simply smaller under load. It would be interesting to see how loose knots can be upset and change their form under load. Some well tied knots may also have this property. Then, there is the difference between kernmantle and double braided rope as well as nylon versus polyester in typical climbing ropes. HMWPE or Dynema behaves differently then we are used to.Yes, I left out the aramids, but this is post getting too long.
@christiffany6680
@christiffany6680 Жыл бұрын
tied, dressed & set properly: yes! The Yosemite bowline can be and has been mis-tied (dressed carelessly) with tragic results.
@brainscrub7976
@brainscrub7976 2 жыл бұрын
The difference between a knot and a bend is kinda vague and often misused, but basically a knot holds its shape on its own. A knot used to tie two rope ends together (or the opposite ends of the same rope) is called a bend. A figure-8 is a knot. But if you tie two ropes together using a figure-8 so that the ropes exit on opposite sides of the knot, then that is called a flemish bend. An overhand knot is a knot, but when used to tie rope ends together its called an overhand bend. A hitch is a knot that falls apart if you remove the thing it's tied around, like a clove hitch.
@tonkolonkov4822
@tonkolonkov4822 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks dude
@bloodmonk125
@bloodmonk125 2 жыл бұрын
I would like to subscribe for more knotty facts please
@SukSukulent
@SukSukulent 2 жыл бұрын
Very well indeed.
@nikolaihedler8883
@nikolaihedler8883 2 жыл бұрын
Bend = end-to-end vs. loop = makes a loop using one end (or middle)
@thatwolfyouknow8598
@thatwolfyouknow8598 2 жыл бұрын
Dude, this was tremendously succinct and helpful. Thank you
@greenlaufer
@greenlaufer 2 жыл бұрын
"Because we make the best gear in the game..." OK that made my day....
@trikael
@trikael 2 жыл бұрын
Here are a few thoughts: First establish a baseline rope strength by breaking some unknotted rope attached to largish diameter anchorages, e.g. a "bollard" or "capstan" type anchorage, using a several round turns and a high strength tie off. Then test knots in a way that simulates normal use cases (i.e., bends to join tails, loop knot to form loops), but avoids tight radius attachments ( use smooth but large shackles instead of carabiners). Now that you've got a estimate of rope strength and knot efficiency, apply the knowledge to more "real life" configurations and loads: use carabiners where appropriate, use drops to simulate climbing falls, and some sort of "slackline simulation" by dropping a load normal (perpendicular) to a tensioned line anchored with the knot in question.
@trollmcclure1884
@trollmcclure1884 2 жыл бұрын
Yes, a bollard is a must. They should divide the failure points of bends not by 2 but rather 1 and something because there's clearly two ropes and when the bend slips, the other side gets shorter and pulls the rope over the edge of a carabiner. It would be better to call the test unvalid and do it properly
@brettknoss486
@brettknoss486 Жыл бұрын
I'd look at securing the rope with clamps to ensure the rope fails at the knot or at a random point in the rope. I would also like to see the Ashley bend tested.
@Jayizzy433
@Jayizzy433 11 ай бұрын
⁠@@trollmcclure1884 What? The point is they’re showing it’s breaking point in real world application… I don’t climb with bollards. I just want to know if replacing my cam sling with a 7mm bend/loop will be over the kn of the cam itself… And other such applications.
@trollmcclure1884
@trollmcclure1884 11 ай бұрын
@@Jayizzy433 you'd still benefit from unbiased result using a bollard. Unless you make slings between two carabiners using these knots just like them. Otherwise it's a bogus claim. Alpine butterfly should be tested using the loop, not the sides. If they break in the knot then the test is valid. If it breaks over the edge of a carabiner then using a bollard would be better to test the strength of the knot. Still interesting to get an answer just when I'm doing rope access after a year or so. We use only figure 8 and Alpine butterfly so that everyone is familiar with it and can check the anchor and trust it. I'm gonna produce a video soon because one guy expressed a concern over my 12 year old dyneema sling. A believe it will still pull 2 ton concrete block. He said it will hold 500 kg. Nonsense. It's not been used much at all
@d4r4butler74
@d4r4butler74 2 жыл бұрын
Too many Knots? Yes and no. Yes if you were wanting specifics on 1 particular knot; no from a purely entertainment front. I enjoyed the Video, and seeing the many different ways the knots and or ropes responded to the pull. Your idea to deep dive into 1 Knot in a video is great! I like some of the ideas that the comments section has too. Keep up the great work!
@jeffcapeshop
@jeffcapeshop 2 жыл бұрын
What I want to see from a knot video: how it break, of course!, but also: what you would use it for, what you wouldn't use it for and when it can be dangerous, how to tie it, how it is to untie, why you like it over other knots, or why you prefer to use another knot in real world use.
@HowNOT2
@HowNOT2 2 жыл бұрын
Yes, where it is used would probably be more helpful than finding out it breaks at 50% of MBS haha
@danwoodman7196
@danwoodman7196 2 жыл бұрын
As a lifelong knot nerd, I love the ideas you're proposing. The classic knot bible, Ashley Book of Knots (ABOK), makes lots of prescriptions on how knots should be set up and modified for different circumstances. Since it predated 1) synthetic materials and 2) the modern climbing/slacklining movements, I would love to see its dictums tested in a contemporary context. The possibilities are endless. For example, the sheet bend in this video broke easily. What about a slipped (quick release) sheet bend? Is is so weak that its convenience is almost irrelevant? Or a doubled sheet bend, which I've seen mariners use to tow vessels. Does that extra wrap make up for all the slippage? Or stopper knots. Do the fancy ones actually perform better than a simple overhand in practice? The possibilities are endless. ABOK is also just a delight to read about the different ways professions used knots, which kinda keeps with your vision to expand the channel beyond straight slackline content. I could see content based around "does XX historical set-up actually test well, and what could we learn from it?" Super excited for any of your future knot vids!
@daltonsband
@daltonsband 2 жыл бұрын
THIS!!! Hallowed is Lord Ashby
@sstorholm
@sstorholm 2 жыл бұрын
Well, everything in that book is basically hearsay, and his intention was just to catalogue them. I’d wager that most things in the book holds true for manilla rope, but for synthetics it’s a different story, especially slippery Dyneema for example.
@trikael
@trikael 2 жыл бұрын
@@sstorholm Dyneema is it's own world. Nylon and polyester are "normal" fibers these days, but not much that applies to them should be applied to the HMPEs (Dyneema and Spectra). That's a whole 'nother conversation...
@SukSukulent
@SukSukulent 2 жыл бұрын
Yes, another knot nerd!
@sstorholm
@sstorholm 2 жыл бұрын
@@trikael yupp, never worked with a weirder rope in my life
@ejooop3934
@ejooop3934 2 жыл бұрын
Absolutely love the idea of only 1 kind of knot with different ropes or conditions and the full explanation
@PrimitiveBeasty
@PrimitiveBeasty 2 жыл бұрын
Would love to see more knot videos. The volume of tests here was just fine for me. I would like to suggest a video where you break a series of knots dressed well/poorly/differently, showing how dressing the knot can change how it upsets/slips/breaks. Also please test heavy weights on the drop tower, us 300+ pounders are terribly interested.
@GavynPendleton
@GavynPendleton 2 жыл бұрын
That was fun! Shout out to that double fisherman. Thanks for all of your work
@1-t254
@1-t254 2 жыл бұрын
That one surprised me. I was under the impression the double fisherman's bend was a significant weak point.
@solandri69
@solandri69 2 жыл бұрын
@@1-t254 I'm a fisherman. I looked up the double fisherman knot and it looks like a simplified uni-to-uni knot, which is widely regarded as the best quick way to join two fishing lines (near 100% break strength). It works because as you pull it tight, the wraps cinch up and clamp down on the other line. And you get a double finger-puzzle effect spreading the load over a length of line, instead of concentrating it at a pressure point which can cut the line. In the uni knot, the wraps go around both lines. In the double fisherman the wraps only go around the opposite line.
@ls2005019227
@ls2005019227 2 жыл бұрын
This is exactly the kind of testing I've been looking for! Thanks for putting this together- I realize that this is geared towards climbing; but testing different knots across a variety of different rope types would also be very interesting.
@kymani062497
@kymani062497 2 жыл бұрын
Hey man i do a lot of high scaling for work and I'm very knew to the whole rigging and ropes and knots, this stuff helps out a lot for learning when I'm not at work
@C2toC4
@C2toC4 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks again, great video. Here's an idea: Put the rope through a pulley on each side instead of directly through a carabiner. This way the load on each side of the carabiner would be equivalent in this configuration. (Rather than the knot side of the rope stretching more than the other, which puts differential stress on each side of the carabiner). This would also achieve a higher bending radius which might be more useful when testing knots, rather than having the carabiner impact the results. Essentially it easily takes a variable out of the equation.. Just an idea! Thanks again for sharing! Useful for everyone that literally puts their life on the (a) line every day especially!
@DavidRichfield
@DavidRichfield 2 жыл бұрын
As others have pointed out, the sheet bends here were all tied the wrong way, with the working ends on opposite sides of the knot, but that shows that it's a knot that should be approached with lots of caution. A zeppelin bend doesn't seem to have a "wrong way", and it's easy to undo. A carrick bend even more so. If you urgently need to connect two ropes and you don't mind having to cut the rope later, do an EDK or a double fisherman's. The EDK is the easiest bend to tie, and it doesn't deserve its bad reputation, as long as you leave enough of a tail for it to capsize once.
@arzthaus
@arzthaus Жыл бұрын
I like to tie an EDK and then use that knot to tie an alpine butterfly. That way it's much easier to untie under load
@Gr8tBlueHeron
@Gr8tBlueHeron Жыл бұрын
I'd also like to see how much better a double sheet bend holds.
@Mike_Rogge
@Mike_Rogge 6 ай бұрын
The Carrick bend does have a wrong way, the method taught in the 13th edition scout handbook puts the loops in opposite directions instead of the same, which allows the knot to "unwind" in the same manner as a thief's knot. This was tested by me in 3/8" nylon sailing line, 1/2" decommissioned climbing rope (material unknown, looked like static), and assorted sizes of manila and sisal. Only the sisal didn't slip, which is irrelevant as sisal never slips and breaks easily.
@-IVXII
@-IVXII 2 жыл бұрын
I think the single knot video idea is genius, it really turns all of this time and energy y’all put in into a resource for everyone, like all of us nerds who would watch anyways and broader to people who are just trying to learn a knot while simultaneously exposing them to the deeper and more nuanced things to consider around rope and knot tying. Personally I can’t wait to watch some of you guys run individual knots through a battery of different tests.
@MrJinXiao
@MrJinXiao 2 жыл бұрын
Loving the end screen disclaimer! Re: rope strength differences. Yeah it might be differences in test setup, but it _is_ possible to have the exact same diameter of rope made of the same materials be stronger. Two ways: 1) the weaker rope may have a thicker sheath, but thinner core. 2) the stronger rope might have longer polymer chains with less defects in the core strands.
@levinkuk3427
@levinkuk3427 11 ай бұрын
Ýou are right, thank's for pointing this out! Additionally the way it is woven could make a difference I think.
@carlaitken116
@carlaitken116 2 жыл бұрын
The proper use of a Sheet bend is to tie 2 ropes of different Diameters. Like a smaller line attached to a ships docking rope. It would be cool to see the knot tested in its correct function. the larger Diameter forms a bite while the smaller diameter rope / cord circles around it. It can also be used on Tarps and sand bags (where a bite is created from the tarp or sandbag material) Thanks for sharing another great video!
@christiffany6680
@christiffany6680 Жыл бұрын
a small sandbag can be used as a heaving weight, like a monkey's fist, but Re. sheet bends: the simple simon UNDER is a better alternative.
@Daniel-zc7fc
@Daniel-zc7fc 2 жыл бұрын
Ooh man how i love the bowline
@LoneVanMan
@LoneVanMan 2 жыл бұрын
Another, super good enough video. Bobby does great commentary 👍 Fascinating to see how the different knots act under pressure.
@jamesgates9781
@jamesgates9781 2 жыл бұрын
I love the idea of various in depth knot videos. I whole heartedly support that idea! Excited for the drop tower!!
@FT4Freedom
@FT4Freedom 2 жыл бұрын
This channel is powerful for the mind of climbers. I climb trees and it's relatively safe compared to rock climbing. I love to climb safe. Safety is a beautiful thing. Climbing for enjoyment and knot to push the limit.
@christiffany6680
@christiffany6680 Жыл бұрын
Re. sheet bends: the simple simon UNDER is a better alternative.
@NatetheAceOfficial
@NatetheAceOfficial 2 жыл бұрын
I really like the idea of showing how to untie a tightened knot. With my fat ass sitting on the rope most of the time, I've come by the knowledge honestly.
@rachelhasbruises
@rachelhasbruises 2 жыл бұрын
Marlin spikes are you best friend. (:
@Danny-of3sz
@Danny-of3sz 11 ай бұрын
This is what I been looking for/ waiting for, someone that shows and explains the various different knots and ropes as well as the functions for them an what not. I’m all for it!!
@tobiasbrewin4355
@tobiasbrewin4355 2 жыл бұрын
One thing to consider when looking at these results: As each sample had a knot on each side, we are only seeing the strength of the weaker of the 2 knots. So in theory this will reduce the average strength, although all the results seem very consistent so I doubt it would make much difference
@drew5334
@drew5334 2 жыл бұрын
Love that How Knot to Break Ropes video idea, that sounds like a great way to get a good feel for how different knots handle
@lw671
@lw671 2 жыл бұрын
The 9.8 kN MBS value is exact what the technical standard EN564 requires: In Europe Edelweiss is more a budget brand, so I expect they produced a rope “good enough” and then simply save money by testing not more than required and selling it labelled with a probably too low but save MBS value. But it has to be tested according to the same EN564 test procedure like the Edelrid, which defines the way of attachment.
@androssgetzko2098
@androssgetzko2098 2 жыл бұрын
That´s wrong and unfair to Edelweiss. Edelweiss is a specialist for climbing ropes and for example produced the first climbing ropes which were specially shielded against abrasion from sharp rocks. There are definitely no "budget brand".
@lw671
@lw671 2 жыл бұрын
@@androssgetzko2098 Ok, your comment about 'budget 'is fully right looking at their product range. I should have been more precise and said that this is what they appear to be in some countries around, what seems to be more a marketing/lack off distributor issue.
@AmNothi
@AmNothi 2 жыл бұрын
watching the rope move while slipping is really interesting, thanks for putting this together all
@matthewc.ganong5497
@matthewc.ganong5497 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for doing this research to help us all, much appreciated! Really helps to narrow down which knot to use, after selecting a good rope, of course:)
@thatwolfyouknow8598
@thatwolfyouknow8598 2 жыл бұрын
Yes, please do a whole series on bowlines!
@corvallismountainrescueuni1880
@corvallismountainrescueuni1880 2 жыл бұрын
Sheet bend appears to be tied incorrectly. Tied correctly, the working end tails should both be exiting the bend on the same side.
@tomsmith3045
@tomsmith3045 11 ай бұрын
This was awesome! You're underestimating how valuable this info is. My takeaways? The good knots are pretty good, and all pretty consistent with each other. That the sheet bend is an old knot that might work great on high friction old rope, but looks like not so good with modern line. That the bowline is underrated. That the figure 8 is great, but maybe I should be looking at fishermans for slippery rope. And finally, that the "make a loop thing" of course really does work, and because there's two lines is going to be stronger than the max breaking strength of a single line...even with the losses of the knots and the hardware. See? I learned a LOT and I'm pretty slow!
@jparker4293
@jparker4293 2 жыл бұрын
I love most of your videos and especially the brake test ones. I am fascinated by knots and their braking strengths. I really like the idea of you making the videos about one knot at a time and covering how to tie it, a few variations, and braking strength.
@timharrington6470
@timharrington6470 2 жыл бұрын
Break or Brake?
@michaelwhitten2942
@michaelwhitten2942 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks Ryan, very interesting results, looking forward to more knot videos!!
@jlhgrace8284
@jlhgrace8284 Жыл бұрын
Impressed with the double fishermen's knot.
@martingravdal7094
@martingravdal7094 2 жыл бұрын
Cool Ryan! Nice to get a confirmation that i should keep using my favourite knots :D Love the Zeplin!
@DanielFlores-ge4vs
@DanielFlores-ge4vs 2 жыл бұрын
This channel just keeps getting better and better... Somehow, the Slacksnap machine and the rope/carabiner pop have entered a sort of ASMR category in my life which is both pleasant and scary as you never wanna hear that sound live outside a lab... Y'all are master sending this, it's awesome background entertainment and super useful data for doing whatever. KEEP IT UP!
@jeanmorin3247
@jeanmorin3247 2 жыл бұрын
You run a good show. I'm subscribing after following for most of a year. Congratulations!
@michaelkork6773
@michaelkork6773 2 жыл бұрын
I’m so stoked for short vids all about one knot! Tying and all the break into would be so dope! I think like 7 min ish would be great. I think that you should start by showing the knot, then how to tie, then any errors or common mistakes in tying, then go through the breaking methods. Dope vid!
@alistaircharlton8541
@alistaircharlton8541 6 ай бұрын
This is another great video, love your content. I'm a sailor rather than a climber but there is so much crossover to learn from. I Have always been dubious of the sheet bend anyway which seems to be confirmed by the video. However, I was taught (rightly/wrongly?) that a sheet bend is used to tie dissimilar diameter ropes with the large rope folded over and the smaller rope forming the wrapped part of the knot (can go round twice for a double sheet bend). If the ropes are the same then a square/reef knot should be used, although this is another dubious knot for tail slippage! Good to see the easy-to-tie double fisherman do so well.
@DreIsGoneFission
@DreIsGoneFission 2 жыл бұрын
How dare you assume that this wouldn’t be entertaining. As an engineering student, this was most of what I did for my material science classes
@artis.ukraine
@artis.ukraine 8 ай бұрын
WOW GUYS! So excited! Thanks for this test!
@roamerreed
@roamerreed 2 жыл бұрын
You're a legend. Never knew about slack lining and I'm thinking about trying it out. Understanding the load that you see on specific components has kind of been comforting as I figure out a setup to string in some trees. I'm from the Midwest so theres not a ton of cliffs to do this sort of thing, but I've already made a spacenet just need to get some slings and shackles.
@megodzillaudeadable
@megodzillaudeadable Жыл бұрын
I love your scientific approach to rope and all things about it!!! I test polymer coatings on metal at work and this is like a much more fun version of that!
@johnwilson8434
@johnwilson8434 2 жыл бұрын
Wow That was fascinating to see alll those knots and bends compared in the same video . Many thanks Ryan! I will look forward to your individual knot tests too they shoulod offer some deeper insight.
@timkirkpatrick9155
@timkirkpatrick9155 2 жыл бұрын
Can't believe we watched the whole thing! glad we did.
@Gladi80r
@Gladi80r 2 жыл бұрын
That was quite professional and informative
@jeff7086
@jeff7086 2 жыл бұрын
I have been watching a few of your vids but this one made me hit the SUB button. I love data and information on gear. And no this was not too much information. Well done
@PNWdude
@PNWdude 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for putting the data on screen! Great vid
@olibue3099
@olibue3099 11 ай бұрын
Very good demonstrations
@raydenrs3746
@raydenrs3746 2 жыл бұрын
I have always been using double fishermens for the ease of tying one and most importantly its super easy to untie when its pulled hard on. Im happy knowing that it did so well.
@14guitars67
@14guitars67 Жыл бұрын
??? Double fishermen's locks up tight under very little pressure. Often can only be untied with a sharp knife. :-) Literally the hardest knot to untie of all in this video.
@norisordepraf
@norisordepraf 2 жыл бұрын
your idea with the knots video is great!
@BrodyYYC
@BrodyYYC 2 жыл бұрын
As a rope-access window cleaner that last pull on the butterfly was really interesting so thank you! Lot's of people will combine 2 ropes with a butterfly and some will biner it and others will biner it back to the ropes and some will just leave it. This pretty much confirms my thinking that the butterfly is super good enough but I'm ODC so I still biner it :P
@HJH413
@HJH413 2 жыл бұрын
Great videos. Hope the algorithm knows that I liked this, I subscribed it and wanted to say... Keep up the good work.
@lasvisi
@lasvisi 2 жыл бұрын
Wow that is realy a lot of work. Thank you for sharing your expirience!
@samweiss3248
@samweiss3248 2 жыл бұрын
If you're planning on doing a video on bowlines, I highly recommend looking up the PACI Bowlines Analysis paper. The author goes into detail of what exactly is a bowline and its various variations. It's specific to climbing, and it'd be a good jumping-off point for your research for the video.
@mrnobody89
@mrnobody89 2 жыл бұрын
I think this one is favorite video so far. If I had your machine, I would just go through the Ashley Book of Knots and test each one. The bowline examples seemed loose to me, but I have never worked with climbing rope, so it may just lay differently in it. I'm excited to see the series you propose at the end. I look forward to it.
@rockmcneill335
@rockmcneill335 2 жыл бұрын
This is great info. Look forward to the drop tests.
@unclefranj8460
@unclefranj8460 Жыл бұрын
Well done - - and useful!
@SUDSY0
@SUDSY0 2 жыл бұрын
A high speed thermal cam would be cool to see... love the videos. Truly useful knowledge.
@christiffany6680
@christiffany6680 Жыл бұрын
GOOD IDEA: high-speed / slo-mo THERMAL ir cam vids...
@riverzdad5366
@riverzdad5366 2 жыл бұрын
Also, as usual your vids never disappoint! Rad bud with lots of nerd knowledge that I like to know about stuff Keep it up🤙🏽🤙🏽
@lancerudy9934
@lancerudy9934 Жыл бұрын
Great video! Thanks
@gonnfishy2987
@gonnfishy2987 2 жыл бұрын
So useful. Some great confirmation here: what the staple knots are to know, and why youll be more safe with them than the flashy ones.
@roncoderre
@roncoderre 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for doing the testing. I've been using the reever knot for years. Fairly easy to tie, easy to see that it has been tied correctly, holds really well and relatively easy to untie after it's been loaded. Glad to see that it ranks high.
@zb1b1z
@zb1b1z 2 жыл бұрын
That an interresting knot for what do you use it for? If you use it to tie both end of the same looking rope does it still feel easy to see that it has been tied correctly.
@roncoderre
@roncoderre 2 жыл бұрын
@@zb1b1z : It has a distinctive pattern on both sides. I use it when I need a really strong connector that can handle a heavy load and can be (relatively) easy to untie.
@charlesechols6354
@charlesechols6354 2 жыл бұрын
Looking forward to the knot series.
@patob3363
@patob3363 2 жыл бұрын
the boop sound effect is cute
@hunterwarren1595
@hunterwarren1595 2 жыл бұрын
Deep dive on knots would be sweet. Love it!
@redpakiu
@redpakiu 2 жыл бұрын
Your idea for the format of How Know to Break, sounds really good! However this video with a lot of results (if you ever have to do one again), is NOT bad!
@markp8295
@markp8295 2 жыл бұрын
Your future suggestion video idea sounds great.
@danstaaar
@danstaaar 2 жыл бұрын
Yeees I would love to see knot videos with details on tieing and untieing and break strength in static and dynamic situations and all that stuff... And I bet you could actually use a lot of the data you already have collected!
@wouterbaaijen2645
@wouterbaaijen2645 2 жыл бұрын
Love the idea to to an in depth knot by knot how knot to knot, knot videos! bring em on!
@Huzzunga
@Huzzunga 3 ай бұрын
Was fun to watch
@buckmanriver
@buckmanriver 2 жыл бұрын
Solid Work! Great Data! Great testing!
@andrewgregory6680
@andrewgregory6680 2 жыл бұрын
Hey dude, love your videos and the friends you bring along! I think that the knots will break differently then you think on the drop tower. It would be cool to have side by side videos of both break methods simultaneously. However you set up future videos I’m sure we will all enjoy and appreciate them the same
@mwechtal
@mwechtal Жыл бұрын
Love the slow motion @ the end.
@scubasteveallen
@scubasteveallen 3 ай бұрын
Wow you just showed me the right way to pronounce bowline and ive been a rope tech for 10 plus years 😅
@the.mr.beacher
@the.mr.beacher 2 жыл бұрын
I'm elated he wants to know exactly how knotty we want him to be! 💯
@BrokenSofa
@BrokenSofa 2 жыл бұрын
Fucking great idea to sort it by knots and rope categories. It's a really great resource for all involved with sports relying on knots and bends and whatever
@ohokcool
@ohokcool 11 ай бұрын
Still waiting for the dedicated video on bowlines!
@joshuakatz3517
@joshuakatz3517 2 жыл бұрын
This is amazing info to have. I think I won't be tying certain knots anymore if can avoid
@petar-boshnakov
@petar-boshnakov 2 жыл бұрын
This vid really solves so many forum arguments! :D :D Big one!
@markgregory3213
@markgregory3213 2 жыл бұрын
Great video! The sheet bend appeared to be tied differently than the way I was taught. Both bitter ends should be on the same side of the knot. Perhaps they would break rather than slip. Perhaps (k)not?
@egericoolast
@egericoolast 2 жыл бұрын
yup, the version in the video is known to be insecure.
@daviddroescher
@daviddroescher 2 жыл бұрын
@@egericoolast would that also make this version a left cost sheet bend?
@egericoolast
@egericoolast 2 жыл бұрын
@@daviddroescher Assuming auto correct messed you up, yes this is a left handed sheet bend
@daviddroescher
@daviddroescher 2 жыл бұрын
@@egericoolast nope, play on words left cost =west cost / insecure = can't hold up under pressure. I've had residents in all 3eft cost states. Both have been more inland in more recent decades.
@christiffany6680
@christiffany6680 Жыл бұрын
Re. sheet bends: the simple simon UNDER is a better alternative.
@grumpyuncle.
@grumpyuncle. Жыл бұрын
Exceptional content.
@michpatriot9097
@michpatriot9097 2 жыл бұрын
Awesome..and some of us like long and in depth just fine.
@FlatOutFE
@FlatOutFE 2 жыл бұрын
Awesome and thank you.
@wpeterb
@wpeterb 2 жыл бұрын
Your correct. Most climbers only have weekends to climb and can determine which knots they can concentrate on. Great video.
@sonodrome
@sonodrome 2 жыл бұрын
1 knot specials sounds like a great idea!
@Melds
@Melds 2 жыл бұрын
What prep was done to the knots prior to testing? Several seem like they're not completely dressed or pre-tensioned and may even spill. I'm no expert on knots so I'm not implying anything is wrong, just asking what the process was. Thanks.
@shadiester
@shadiester 2 жыл бұрын
I'd be really curious to see how the normal alpine butterfly holds up when the loop and both ends are pulled in different directions Also, super keen for the drop tower knot tests!
@hugbearsx4
@hugbearsx4 2 жыл бұрын
I wonder whether a test scenario like this could be setup or not, in a manner that would make the results *relevant* for the real world. The results of such a test would depend greatly not only on what force is applied on the loop, but also on the angle of that force relative to the main line. But the most important variable is the length of the lines from the knot to the attachments. That length influences the angle of the main lines to the direction of the pull which, in turn, GREATLY affects the resulting force in the line - and that angle would also vary during every pull. So... which set of parameters would be relevant in terms of realism? There are literally an infinity of such sets of parameters.
@shadiester
@shadiester 2 жыл бұрын
​@@hugbearsx4 I agree but I think that makes it all the more interesting for me, I'm really curious to see how the knot behaves in each of those scenarios and therefore get a better understanding of the potential use cases and limitations of it. As for how you'd test it, that's ultimately up to Ryan to decide but you could possibly test it in the following 3 orientations: 1. Loop and each of the ends pulled with equal force at 120° angles to each other (though I understand that that may not be super easy to set up). 2. Loop and one end pulled in one direction with the force distributed across them, and the other end pulled in the opposite direction. 3. Loop pulled in one direction and the ends pulled in the opposite direction And again, the point isn't necessarily to reproduce accurate results to what you might see in the real world, the point is to get an understanding of how the knot behaves under different scenarios.
@kantamana1
@kantamana1 2 жыл бұрын
That was NOT a sheet bend, a proper sheet bend is tied so both ends come out on the same side. It's such a common mistake that I think nobody should use it at all.
@daveaver2804
@daveaver2804 Жыл бұрын
Agreed-don’t use it.
@pedroclaro7822
@pedroclaro7822 11 ай бұрын
@@daveaver2804 what should I use instead? I need a replacement for sheet bends so I can attach a cloth to a rope
@sam9415
@sam9415 9 ай бұрын
His sheet bend looks like every sheet bend I've ever seen.
@pedroclaro7822
@pedroclaro7822 9 ай бұрын
@@sam9415 it’s wrong.
@sam9415
@sam9415 9 ай бұрын
@@pedroclaro7822Everyone apart from you is wrong, and youre unable to link to what's right? OK, champ. The entirety of Google, all wrong - i.imgur.com/P4RPBUw.png
@Son_of_Docent
@Son_of_Docent 2 жыл бұрын
Great job!!!!
@GetUrPhil
@GetUrPhil 7 ай бұрын
Wow, I'm glad I use the Dbl Fisherman and figure 8.
@adriensanz2354
@adriensanz2354 2 жыл бұрын
I'm curious about the double bowline knot (in comparison with the figure 8) and the clove hitch if you have the time. Thanks for the videos, very much appreciated !
@shelmstedt
@shelmstedt 2 жыл бұрын
Me too
@spencershields9186
@spencershields9186 2 жыл бұрын
Would also love to see the double bowline. That's my cragging knot.
@adriensanz2354
@adriensanz2354 2 жыл бұрын
@@spencershields9186 Yes this is super interesting but I think they did it a long time ago.
@gregknipe8772
@gregknipe8772 2 жыл бұрын
great stuff here.
@williamwest706
@williamwest706 Жыл бұрын
I liked the several different knots. It is very interesting to see what happens. I would love to see these in some larger rope and see the break test info in a sheet form at the end of the video. Thank you
@liambennett9323
@liambennett9323 2 жыл бұрын
I feel that the sheet bend result might be because it was not being tested in the usual use case, which is to the best of my knowledge is specifically to join a thin rope to a thick rope, where the thick rope forms the basic loop. This might mean that the knot was not tightening properly under load in your test as the two ends of the rope were tightening at the same rate; whereas when set up correctly the thinner rope would tighten around the larger one as well as onto its own running end, preventing slipping.
@Catcrumbs
@Catcrumbs Жыл бұрын
He tied the sheet bend with the working ends on opposite sides of the knot, which is considered an error.
@moodywonka
@moodywonka Жыл бұрын
@@Catcrumbs would not making this small error really make the knot that ineffective?
@Catcrumbs
@Catcrumbs Жыл бұрын
@@moodywonka I can't find any empirical data on the subject. The sheet bend stands out in this video as having a very poor result, which does not seem likely to be a true reflection on the bend, considering its long-standing use. Just as a 'small' error makes an inferior granny knot of a reef knot, I think it's very possible that the sheet bend would do much better if tied conventionally.
@christiffany6680
@christiffany6680 Жыл бұрын
Re. sheet bends: the simple simon UNDER is a better alternative.
@christiffany6680
@christiffany6680 Жыл бұрын
​@@Catcrumbs Re. sheet bends: the simple simon UNDER is a better alternative.
@schwiftyoliver77
@schwiftyoliver77 2 жыл бұрын
Great videos Ryan! Been watching for a while. Cant wait until you guys get a super slo-mo camera!
@CasperEngineering
@CasperEngineering 2 жыл бұрын
Yes please! Please include Blakes Hitch and Double Bowline Knots.
@budm9982
@budm9982 2 жыл бұрын
I've used many of these knots in rope rescue work. Many that you used were redundant, as in many are used for the same purpose so not all need to be used or learned. Very interesting testing. Quite entertaining and educational. I would like to see the slipping and breakage on high-speed cam.
@zb1b1z
@zb1b1z 2 жыл бұрын
It's definitely interesting to see the slipping and at what load it start especially on wet and dusty rope.
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