Hey Josh I'm glad I helped cement the knowledge together. Good luck BP

Hey Uncle Longbeard... In one of my later videos I did a series of tests to try to work out the "optimum level of blur" and I came to the same conclusion, about 1/250 second gave the. most pleasing amount of shutter blur. I just wished that GoPro would display shutter speeds on it so that you could see what it was doing. What I just discovered recently is that you need to lock ISO to 100 otherwise GoPro starts cranking it up much sooner than I would have expected. So now I lock min and max ISO to 100.

Thanks for your comments Steve... Glad you are finding the series useful. Yes, it's tough sometimes when you hear conflicting information... I usually resort to doing my own tests to reach my own conclusions in those cases.

i know I'm pretty randomly asking but do anyone know a good place to stream new series online?

@Jeffrey Frank Ehh try flixportal. you can find it if you google =) -judson

@Judson Ishaan thank you, I signed up and it seems like a nice service :) I appreciate it !!

@Jeffrey Frank Happy to help :)

Excellent. I hope that improves the colours as well as slowing your shutter down.

Hey Tony, just a quick update, I just discovered something really significant. If you are using ND filters for Gopro, it's important to lock your ISO to 100 min and 100 max. If not, then the gopro will fight your ND by increasing ISO to try to maintain fast shutter.... So you get two adverse effects. 1) more noise in your image. and 2) not as much motion blur as you wanted. I'm going to make a video on this when I get a chance. It's frustrating that GoPro doesn't display ANY exposure aids (like shutter speed) on the camera.

Hey Ralf. Yes, I would aim for 1/125 irrespective of shooting 24fps or 60fps. I also shoot 60fps but aim for 1/125s shutter. You might want to watch my lesson #2 where I go through my GoPro settings in detail. You are spot on in your thinking. I don't fix the shutter speed. I leave it on auto shutter, but what I'm doing is using the ND's to get that auto shutter speed around 1/125sec. Yes, I don't mind if the camera increases shutter speed by a stop or two to get perfect exposure... there will still be blur in the shot. Also I've been running GoPro labs Beta firmware on my cameras, the big benefit of this is the QR codes which I am loving. I'm going to do a video on how I use them, but in the latest release they also gave you the option of fixing the maximum shutter angle. So I've set mine at 180 degrees which means that GoPro should not drop my shutter speed to < 2X frame rate.

@@brentbat Thank you, I learned lot from you. 😍

Mike... If you are not interested in getting any blur, then you want to shoot at higher shutter speeds. However, if you go too high, then it starts to look almost a bit "stroby"... not smooth, because every frame is too sharp. Your brain actually sees with motion blur. If you wave your hand in front of your face, your eyes and brain are picking up blur, not a series of sharp frames. I know there is this general rule of thumb that shutter speed is 2x frame rate, but I'm really questioning this for motorcycling. I'm going to run a series of tests next weekend to try to validate this once and for all. So my hypothesis right now is to aim for shutter speed of 1/125 sec (using ND filters) , (because I do want some motion blur to create a more cinematic look), but I'm either going to shoot at a 24fps or 30fps frame rate an edit using this same rate so that there are not dropped frames or issues around sampling.

Hey Mark, I edit in 1080 res, and then I export to 2.7K for upload to KZfaq in order to force the high resolution Codec. See lesson 1 in the series for more information about why I up-res to 2.7K

Hey Paul Enjoy the gopro 11, you'll definitely be happier as you get higher quality images. Yes, I think polarising filters will cut down on glare a bit more. I don't use them personally.

The Hero 8 is a great camera except for that one flaw... not being able to pop on ND lenses easily. It seems that is the only model (at least from the GoPro 5 up) that has that flaw.

Hey Fabriazio, I'm not sure what you are trying to do.... I have the App open, this is the way I would use it to help me estimate the filter to choose. 1) Take the light reading 2) Lock aperture on f2.8 (if it is not already locked) 3)I would ensure my ISO is set to about 150ISO (I'm now setting min iso = 100 and max ISO=200) 4) Then I slide the ND filter wheel unit the shutter speed is sitting around 1/200sec I then read the ND filter density from the ND filter dial and use that in my filter selection. I hope this helps.

Choose whatever lens and resolution you want. Key settings for the ND filter are: Auto shutter ISO Min = 100 ISO Max = 200 (this stops GoPro from cranking up the ISO and giving you faster shutter speeds) I would either use and ND 8 for overcast, or an ND 16 for sun Those settings should give you a good result. BP

Hey Kuching, make sure you check out my later video where I continue running tests on shutter speed and frame rate. I've actually now determined that a slightly higher shutter speed is actually optimum (closer to 1/200 or 1/250sec). I never set the shutter speed explicitly, but do set it implicitly by monitoring for ISO and using an ND filter. To be honest, during most circumstances I'm just leaving an ND16 on the camera and I'm very happy with the results.

@@brentbat hah..thanks mr. you like my lecturer at the campus

I haven't tried them recently, but I stopped using them because I was getting real reliability issues with my GoPro... It was freezing way more than normal... so I uninstalled the Beta software... This was probably over a year ago. I haven't tried it more recently. ARe you using it? I'm using my GoPro remote which allows me to change modes pretty easily.

I'm not quite sure what you mean by the question, but if you are asking whether to use 5X frame rate as "the new 180 degree shutter rule"... then no... ... So if you were shooting at 60fps you wouldn't shoot at 1/300 sec. The 180 degree rule (or doubling the shutter) apparently creates the most realistic approximation to the way the human eye sees - so it creates the most natural looking motion blur. But with my testing, I found that things just move much faster when it comes to motorcycling, and this creates excessive motion blur which impacts image stabilisation. By running my own tests (you can see the video that I made after this somewhere on my channel), I found that the best blur occurs at shutter speeds of between 1/125 and 1/250 second. Irrespective of the frame rate.

@@brentbat thnx

Hey Steve, I've been shooting with ND Filters on GoPro now for quite some time and I've done a lot more experimentation etc. The only time that hypersmooth is affected is if your shutter speed has gone too slow and there is too much blur in the shot. That seems to make hypersmooth struggle with stabilisation. Yes, you are right, if anything err on the lower ND filter number. My target shutter speed is 1/250 sec, and I find this gives a nice amount of blur, without impacting Hypersmooth at all. I run my GoPros with 2 profiles: 1) POV (for getting my dashboard and bars in shot and showing my perspective) 4K 4:3 ratio @ 30fps, Wide lens, Hypersmooth = On 2) Cinematic Profile (for when I'm following a rider and THEY are the focus of my shot) 4:K 16:9 @ 60fps (so I can do slowmo if necessary), Linear Lens+Horizon Levelling), Hypersmooth = Boost. If you have any questions on why I have chosen these specific settings just holler and I'll explain.

@@brentbat thanks Brett for the quick and clear reply. For the scenario of riding on a road / trail (forward looking and NO bike in front), can I ask what profile settings would you use for that ? thanks again

@@sritter Hey Steve, then I'd be using the POV settings. I'm assuming you are using something like a chin mount (or helmet mount camera). Settings ======== 4K resolution, 4:3 aspect ratio, 30fps (assuming you won't be doing slow-mo), Wide lens, Hypersmooth = On (not boost). I'd set the shutter on auto, bitrate to high, min ISO=100, max ISO=800, EV Comp = -0.5, Because I'm editing I shoot colour profile = flat and sharpness = low. But if you are NOT doing post-production ,then set the colour to GoPro and sharpness to medium. I hope that helps, but again, if you are not sure why I have recommended a specific setting, just holler and I can explain the rationale / reasoning behind every one of those settings.

Hey Sutv, the GoPro 10 shoots at 5.3K resolution with a linear lens.

@@brentbat That's great news. Thank you for confirming that. :)

Absolutely... you nailed it in one. If the shutter goes to fast... it's still oK, but the image looks quite "hectic" and frantic. If you get the shutter right, you get lovely motion blur and your shots look more cinematic..... If the shutter gets too slow... then it screws with the image stabilisation and your image gets a bit jittery.

Hey Averon, I'm experimenting with this very question right now. If you leave max ISO up to 800, then Gopro boosts ISO too early and you lose too much motion blur. If you leave it at 100, you risk under exposure and shaking. My latest thinking is to go a bit easier on the ND (say ND 16 in sun) and then have max ISO on 200. That is what I'm going to be trying next.

Hey Kai Your questions are excellent and funnily enough I’m going to post a new video on this exact topic in the next couple of days. I just did a bunch of testing on exactly the questions you asked. Based on my testing I’ve tweaked my optimal recommendations. I’ll be posting the test footage, but now I’m shooting 24fps Editing 24fps timeline Shutter speed has gone faster to 1/250s

@@brentbat haha that was funny! looking forward to that video. im a new subscriber :) 24fps 1/48 looks so nice on the gp5. but very shaky...

@@kaiarne1 yeah I discovered that early on. I’m used to shooting normally with those settings, but the shutter speed is way too slow for motorbike videos, creating too much motion blur which can cause problems with camera stabilisation. You’ll see In The video that while 1/125sec didn’t interfere with stabilisation, I just felt the blur was a bit heavy at 40mph speeds.

@@brentbat i usally do like much motionblur when driving motorcycle. But it is okay to experiment from 1/125 and faster shutter? Without interfer with stabilisation? This sounds great 👍🏼 😊 but if i want shoot 60fps on the bike, the shutter must be even faster right?

@@kaiarne1 Yes, I've found that shutters speeds > 1/125 don't seem to effect stabilisation. Yes, if you were shooting 60fps you would want to be shooting 1/125s shutter speed, but I've found even if you are shooting at lower frame rates like 24fps or 30fps, then 1/125 or 1/250 works well.

Hey there, I'm not sure if you are referring to a specific comment in the video, but yes, I have my ISO min at 100 and my ISO Max at 800 as well. If you are referring to another comment, just give me the time reference so i can respond.

Hey Scooter, I probably wouldn't ever use the ND4. I'd use clear lens for stormy skies, heavy woods etc., I'd use the 8 for overcast cloudy sky, and I'd use the 16 for bright sun.... that's my simple rule of thumb.

I normally shoot all my videos at 24fps with shutter of 1/50th. But what I discovered was this was too slow for motorcycling, so I now shoot at 60fps with a target shutter of 1/125sec. I still edit at 24fps which means I can get smooth slow-mo at 40 speed by shooting 60fps.

@@brentbat got it! makes sense - ill test out some of these settings once I get my polar pro set

Hey Fabrizio, My guess is that you have your system set to PAL instead of NTSC... this changes the frame rates of the camera. Doesn't make a huge difference. I still leave my shutter on Auto, but I'm now setting my min shutter to 100 ISO and my max to 200 ISO, because I found that GoPro is cranking. up ISO way too early which is negating the effects of the ND filter if you don't cap the ISO.

on the friend photo application, you cannot block iso and aperture at the same time, is there a parameter to adjust?

If you want more motion blur, I'd experiment with shutter speeds around 1/80s - 1/125 sec. I find for motorcycle videos if you go any lower than that you get too much blur and it affects the image stabilization algorithms.

My cinematic setting is set on 60fps and I'm editing on a 30fps timeline. If you use an ND16 and set shutter to auto it will work fine... that is my standard ND filter.

@@brentbat okay.. thanks for reply 👍🏻

Hey Filip, I'm not sure which App stores it is in, but here is the developer's website, so perhaps you can contact him. stendec.io/photofriend/

Hey Col, can you post your videos online somewhere so I can see your results? I'd be happy to try to help.

@@brentbat Thanks, I can email, google drive, wetransfer or dropbox if you like?

@@colleenhamilton894 If you can send me a dropbox link that would work (or google drive).

Hey Peter Just check the settings for this app. Mine had a setting called “Extra dial” that I have set for ND Filter. But I’m. It sure if I’m on the latest version.

@@brentbat thanks that fixed it for me , did not see extra dial

Hi again now there is no locking function ? any tips , thanks

arrrrr found it tap 3 times fast

@@peterhewitson71 Perfect.... See if I just wait... you'll answer your own questions :-)

I don’t have a GoPro 8in front of me but it sounds like your shutter speed choices are because you have PAL system selected (or EU region. If there is an option to select NTSC try that.

Ha! I think you will thank me for it. It's a relatively small investment, but together with the other stuff, it will make your footage more cinematic looking. Enjoy.

Thats a bummer.. .Sorry I can't help you out there Orval

Все работает, изменяется в настройках программы.

Check the settings options

Yes, that is a bummer. As a matter of interest, why do you use the Max Lens mod? I haven't tried it, but I'm curious in how/why you are using it.

Yes, Len Pad, you are right... the camera work is the easy stuff. But I'll go riding with you any day. Get your ass back to Oz and we'll go for a ride. Ben has a KTM 400 that you will enjoy.

I hear you Moto Tripper, but unfortunately the DSLR was the only device with good light metering/display. One of the things that drives me nuts about the GoPro is there NO METERING or exposure aids at all... No histograms, no peaking... no settings readouts.... So it's hard to use that to demonstrate the behaviour of ND filters adequately. But your point is taken.

You are so right. The problem was I was shooting this video when I was locked up in hotel quarantine, so the only way to focus was autofocus because I was only one person and couldn't manually focus on myself :-). Normally, I would just use "Single" focus to have the autofocus lock on the eyes, and then stay static... but I couldn't in this situation.

@@brentbat Yes, I imagine quarantine must have been a rather frustrating state of affairs. When I’m in a single-person situation like that, I try to find some inanimate object to stand in for me while I manually focus - like a coat tree, a folded ironing board on end, a stack of pillows, etc. If I can’t find a suitable stand-in then I try to use a smaller aperture to give me a larger depth of focus so nailing the focus isn’t as critical. Again though, you provide excellent information with very clear delivery and I thank you for it!

I guess we agree to disagree. High shutter speed on fast moving images looks chaotic. ND filters if used correctly make your images much more cinematic. You get full stabilisation if you shoot correctly. Why don’t you take a look at my latest video on my Flinders ride and see what you think of the image quality. Personally I prefer shooting 4K, boost, linear, -0.5ev, flat, no sharpening and grading when I edit. But each to their own. If you are happy with your results without NDs, then that is all that matters. I much prefer my footage when I control the shutter speed.

@@brentbat Your Flinders video is Great!... but note that the Drone footage is sharp and clean... and the DSLR with it's depth of field is spectacular... But back to the GoPro... The Catastrophic Price of ND filters in my experience starts with Disabling Stabilization... additionally, to purposely blur the image, is a step backward 10yrs in video technology... Nobody has a High Definition Monitor or TV to reduce the image quality... and I would shoot in 4K too, if not for the enormous file sizes when I mostly record complete, multi-hour rides. I hear my fellow moto-vloggers frustration with long hours of editing and post... half the time, the footage never leaves the cutting room... I can bypass the post, keep the footage reasonably sized, and rely on 60fos, 2.7k, Med Sharp, for sharp, colorful, stable footage... ready to render right out of the camera.

OK @@asphaltjunkie let me try to set you right on a few things. Drone footage is sharp and clean - Absolutely!!! DSLR with it's depth of field is spectacular - Nope, this is actually my iPhone in "Cinematic mode".... the shallow DOF is computer generated 🙂 Catastrophic price of ND filters.... lets dive into this. a) Cost is not an issue-they are not that expensive b) A well made ND filter will have zero noticeable degradation on image quality c) I'm sorry to say that you are just plain wrong when you say that ND filters "disables stabilization". This is a total fallacy. What DOES impact stabilization is when your shutter speed becomes too slow and the motion blur becomes too great... then the image stabilization algorithm can't "lock on" and stabilize. I have done extensive experiments on this... Here's one example: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jq6Ad7ZlzLnRYJc.html d) Nobody has a high definition monitor to reduce image quality - Again, I would argue that creating motion blur IMPROVES image quality. If you go to a cinema, then you will find that professional cinematographers shoot at 1/48 second normally in order to capture realistic motion blur. Shooting in 4K - Yes, you are right, file sizes are bigger, and our styles of moto capture are different. You are shooting multi-hour rides, I'm capturing highlights for editing. I totally respect our different styles of video. "I hear my fellow moto-vloggers frustration with long hours of editing and post... half the time the footage never leaves the cutting room" - The first part of this doesn't apply in my case. I LOVE the editing and post production. In fact in my case, I feel like I have 3x the fun of most riders... (i) I love the planning and research, so I enjoy hours of staring at maps, and planning rides (ii) There is the ride itself which is obviously the highlight (iii) I love the edit and the post production - For me it is an artistic enjoyment and not a chore. I also don't mind if a ton of footage never makes the cut. I have plenty of SD cards and unlike film, I can reformat them and it doesn't cost me a dime. "I can bypass the post" - Yes, as mentioned earlier, we both have very different styles of video that we make.... although I am noticing that your style has changed. Your channel description reads "Pure sounds of Classic American Motorcyles in the SouthWest Outback".... But yet the pinned movie called "Why We Ride Motorcyles" is a nicely edited video with V/O. Personally, I thought that video was more entertaining than just watching a ride. We both clearly love riding motorcycles but for me... I'm trying to produce a video of my ride that others want to watch. My goal is to motivate people to try this for themselves or visit these beautiful places. Personally, I think we have to edit our videos to make them enjoyable for others. Anyway, I am not sure if my arguments have changed your mind in any way. But in any case I hope you have found them respectful and at least thought provoking. Happy Riding!