It took 7 different videos to finally find someone who knew what they were talking about. Thank you for this.

3 years later, I’ve been moving my rest wrong. Today I moved my rest towards my Broadhead and BAM grouping great with fixed broadheads

I have referenced back to this video probably four times this hunting season! What he says is true!!!

I've been screwing around for hours doing the wrong thing. Thank you for giving me the method that actually works!

Your level of experience and logic always amaze me. Love your instruction vids, thanks lots.

I gotta say huge thanks to you for this video. I accidentally figured this out on my own while tuning and thought it went against everything I’ve ever read or heard. This proved I’m not crazy and my bow isn’t a piece of crap! Thanks buddy!

Seriously man, i truly appreciate everything you said, it made complete sense, but then, just today, i went and did it your way, and guess what... thank you. you rock 🤘

This guy knows what he is talking about great information on tuning your arrows thank you

A few years ago I tried moving my rest towards the dot because that was the conventional wisdom I found online and spent hours chasing my tail. I finally threw my hands up and decided to do the opposite since I had nothing to lose. Within 3 adjustments I was hitting together at 60 yds and laughed to myself the whole way home. Thank you for this video!

Spot on, you're 100% correct.! I've been trying to get guys to understand this for a long time..!!

Physics and math; foundations of the Universe. Solid gold logic and explanation of how and why Kellen, keep the great videos coming. Much appreciated.

Thanks for the video. I was shooting about 12 inches to the left at 60 yard when I shot my broadhead. I used your teaching and both are now hitting together. incredible, thanks...

Ok so, 2 weeks ago I was having trouble grouping field points and broadhaeds together and getting really inconsistant shots. So I went right back to the start checking my nock point level to my rest, resetting my 1st,2nd and 3rd axis and then set about paper tuning. i was getting bullet holes with both bare and fletched shafts. I then tried the broadheads again same result 4 inches to the right of my field points!!! I checked out KZfaq and found a few video's, one of which you mentioned and set about doing as the said person described.. but that created more problems! Today I found your video and ripped the bow out of the case set the rest back to were it was pre said person and set about with your method. BOOOM!! Broadheads and field points together and just a minor sight adjustment to bring them back on target and Im ready to nail a big mountain boar in the morning!! Awesome video mate and well explained, makes much more sense. Keep up the awesome videos, Im a newby to the sport and need all the help I can get. Oh And happy new year from Down Under!

I definitely agree with you on this I've watched the videos of people doing it the opposite way and when I did that it got worse then I thought about why my broadheads were hitting left and realized I was doing the opposite of what I needed to do

Buddy I just did this for the second time. First time I figured it out accidentally on my own and didn’t understand why... then I saw this video and clarified everything.

Don't worry about the comments. I've tried every available method you can use and you're right with the way you tune it works 100% of the time. Thanks you helped me a lot best info out there

I’m retired so I’ve got time to spend with my bow. I’m an okay shot and getting better every week. This week I started included one broad head with my practice rounds. I’m glad I found your video before I started messing around. I want to shoot my blades as good as I do my field points all the way out to sixty yards. It’s gonna take some time. Anyway thanks for your help with this.

4:20-5:00 you just saved me tons and years of misery tuning my broadheads with a hoyt. I’ve taken my bow into local pro shop and telling them I was having broadhead flight issues. They’d move my rest say I’m good send me on my way (don’t allow broadheads shot in their shop) get home to have the same problem. I just threw it on my press adjusted the buss cable and got perfect broadhead to field point flight. Thanks man.

This method makes perfect sense and worked excellent for me. You provide some of the best archery information on the net.

Great tuning tips, all your videos, some of the best on Utube!

Had to save this video after seeing other videos and seeing the comments here! Thanks for what you do brother. Makes perfect sense to me!

Thank you so much, worked like a charm!!! I had been doing it the opposite way for years and always settled on close enough, now I'm cutting fetching off if I shot my field tip first.

I was trying this on two different set ups- made it worse and worse and was moving my rest and my sights everywhere. I did the opposite of this advice- worked perfectly.

You know it never made sense to me that guys would say that. This make much more sense to me.

There is so much misinformation in our community thanks for such a good explanation!

I've always had trouble with tuning broadheads and fieldpoints and always followed the the other method and never seemed to work. Tried ur method yesterday and alot better results

I use your site like a dictionary, whenever I struggle with something I just come here to find the answers to my problems. Been twice the last two days. This and the let off video. If you have shoulder injuries, the more let off the better. Just went from 80 to 85 on my Ventum 33. One little peace of information, if your shoulder doesn’t allow for a correct high elbow it’s ok to be close to level as long as you pull back, not down or out ( tear in labrum of right shoulder, surgery corrected rotator cuff etc but labrum still tore, 25 yrs worth)

Gotcha, I should have listened to the whole video! Keep them coming!

Thank you so much for this video. This ACTUALLY WORKED and saved me so much frustration. It is crazy how much misinformation is out there telling people to move their rests the opposite way for broadhead tuning.

You helped me with the broad head hitting to the right of the field tips it worked

I agree with this method based on tuning Iron Will Wide BHs. I was able to shoot out to 70 yards with these BHs while grouping with my field points.

You are exactly right... And it is best to eyesight your pins using a field tip and so on...

This worked for me too! I have done the opposite approach and had the exact same outcome you describe. My broadheads did move but so did my field points, in the same direction. SO FRUSTRATING! Today I tried this method as I am switching to a new arrow and re-tuning my bow anyway. I had already center shot tuned my bow, nock tuned a couple of bare shaft arrows through paper and was just thinking about my broadheads when I came across this video. Recalling my previous frustrations I thought, man, what do I have to lose by trying your method?! Well, after shooting a few rounds of a broadhead & field point I was able to identify which way my broadhead was planing and I started moving my rest that way and sure enough both the broadhead and field point moved that way but what I could see was that the arrows were now aligning more parallel in the target and closer together, meaning the broadhead shaft was in better alignment with the field point shaft. I made a few more very small adjustments and got them both looking great. Then I sighted in for the adjustment made to the rest and man, it worked! Then I thought, I wonder what's happened to my paper tune?! So, I shot through paper and it was still good but now I noticed a slight nock high tare. I adjusted my rest up a tiny amount and got perfect bullet holes! I'm stoked! I go back to 20 yards and now I'm shooting bare shaft broadheads with my bare shaft field points!!! AWESOME! Thank you!

Was having issues with broadband tuning. I was following some of the advise he spoke about but with I done what he said to do in this video my issue was fixed in 2 shots. Thank you

Tag Dud in this man. He’s a good dude and I’m willing to bet he’d make a quick video correction supporting your method.

You are the best....period!

Very helpful video. Thank you!

Hey man your videos are very helpful. I can't say how many of your videos I have actually watched, along with others for setting up and tuning my Matthews. However not only did I try your method and it was the opposite way I should have gone but also so many others saying the same thing. You should probly try it again and clarify yet again how to broadhead tune.

Great explanation it a sign of a good teacher to explain how and why things work or doesn't work. Keep up the good work RTQ

You my friend are 100% correct

Best channel hands down!

You’re right. This channel is better than nock on, more in detail and helpful than most channels. I just got my first compound (Mathews traverse) after shooting only traditional my whole life. I’ve learned everything on the compound from this channel.

That's true, I actually have had good luck moving my rest in the opposite direction to bring my broadhead towards my FP. However, I have also bumped it slightly in the opposite direction, like you are saying now, and have had success. I made a video, on BH tuning, and stated it wrong, as I didn't actually have to make any Left Right adjustment.

I’m a newer bow shooter, but I have been in the precision and LR rifle world for many years. I’ve listened to -and made- many arguments in the rifle world (both good and bad ones). I know a good argument when I hear one. You sir, made a better argument than your counterparts. Well done.

Hey mate, keep up the good information. I’m gonna go buy a hat! Well done.

Great advice keep up the good work 🏹😁

this make sense to me. i was having this issue with broadhead tuning last year and coulndt get it right. went back to my schwackers.

Tried this today. You are right. Move your arrow rest towards the broadhead to correct left or right.

Your way works. It’s a no brainer.

Thanks didn’t take to long doing it this was and makes more sense then doing it the (other way) .

Thanks for the advice man! I picked up a couple boxes of the Exodus broadheads today. field points are just about driving tacks. broadheads shooting 5in low....I will try to move the rest in the morning 🤞🤔

Amazing I was tinkering with lighted nocks with G5 montecs it's amazing how the weight of the nock throws the arrow spine off just enough to get erratic arrow flight..went back to the factory nocks and the montecs shoot just like field points out to 60 yards

Dude. I’ve been trying to tune my revolt x for a good month now. Bare shafts hit left and field points to the right. Just today I recentered my rest and cams. Once again shafts to left. I moved the rest towards the field points which is right. All that happen was both set of arrows were shooting further to the right on target. Same spacing between the two on impact. I’d say about a good 6 inches. Then I remembered that Australian dudes KZfaq channel and how he said “sometimes you need to move the rest opposite of what people claim”. So I did this and bam!!!! All on point. This was at 20 yards. I then grabbed my broad head and took a 60 yard shot. Yea I jumped the gun a bit from frustration. Anyway the bH was on point at 60. So yea you’re right. Don’t listen to Hoyt oh I mean pse “experts” 🤫😉

Thanks for the info

The video I watched JUST before this one, was the one with the "black and green archer" you mention (lol). The science behind this method makes more sense

Just fixed 2 years of frustration with my Triax! So much that I bought the VXR I was so sick of “chasing my field tip”

Sounds right to me I’ll check it

6:36 lol Be careful, you're going to take an eye out ; )

This is why it took me a month to tune my bow. I took the advice of the green and black archer, and couldn't figure out why my broad head flight was getting worse. So many conflicting answers.

I’m always learning and I Ike your vids. I think where the arguments start is from this point: if your rest is kicking your bh to the left of the field point then the rest is directing the arrow to the left. When you draw back, the arrow is already aimed to the left and moving the rest to the left further will only magnify the deviation. The confusion is because one method focuses on the front of the arrow and the other focuses on the tail. That’s what I think is causing conflict between the two. Either way there is still a resighting of the sight to bring the points of impact together or re-center the impact point. I’m not arguing for either side but I have heard of both methods working for people.

Sounds good.

now this one kept me busy, and after spending quite some time to evaluate all the experts' arguments, the following seem to be plausible for me: 1) if the BH hits to the right (left) of the field point, the likely cause is that the BH (due to the surface) was planing a little bit (assuming that the weight and dynamic spine of the arrows are all the same). 2} to minimize the planing (where the BH is more effected as the field point) I have to move (like with a sail) the BH a little bit more out of the wind, 3) which would mean I would have to move the BH (sail) into the opposite direction, 4) and the only (?...stay tuned) way to do this is to move the arrow rest also into the opposite direction; 5) as a result the BH should now plan less, the field tip is less effected by this move due to the smaller surface thus the arrows should now group closer. If I would follow your approach I actually would increase the planing for the BH, the field point wouldn't be effected so much, thus the grouping would become bigger? ....sounds plausible, BUT (I mentioned it kept me busy for a while 😁)...the contemplating above didn't consider the impact of the other "sails" involved in this equation: the vanes! ...by moving the rest towards the broadhead (moving the BH more into the wind) I also move the vanes more into the wind, and the lever of the vanes (distance of the way to the center) is bigger than the lever of the BH (especially if you have a high FOC!!!...so the arrow will pivoting close to the BH providing more "corrective power") - therefore THIS APPROACH COULD WORK INDEED TOO❗❗❗ Conclusion: both approaches can work, it will depend on your specific arrow setup (especially the FOC and the fletching) AND the distance (time you give the vanes to correct the flight). Personally I think the "opposite direction approach" is more promising, your approach will likely only work with a very specific setup you shoot at a fixed distance; the results will likely differ if you do the tuning with a bare shaft without fletching. Eta: @2:55 you say ..." if you have a tail-right tear you have to move your rest to the left" ....that's usually not correct?.... I say usually as there is indeed more than one location of the rest where you can get a bullet hole pending on the archers paradox and the DYNAMIC spine (stiffness) of your arrow. However this second rest position you get when moving the rest to the left (sticking with your example) is far out from the centre shot - when this happened to me (when I started with archery) I was absolutely convinced that this was the right spot for the rest (as verified by the bullet hole), I was just wondering why my sight was totally maxed out wrt windage adjustment options 😁.

Spot on dude, I have argued this point with guys who have shot a lot longer than me.. It's basic physics

I like JD and he has some good videos but damn this video here fixed me up in about 10 minutes.

good job. You are correct on BH tuning. the point is to get field points and fixed blades hitting the same spot. then adjust your sight to bring both back to the bulleye. If your broadhead is impacting to the right of your field point, move rest in direction of broadhead... I too have wondered why John Dudley would say the opposite but I think its because he was only caring where the broadhead hit and not the field point. At that point, you may as well just sight in your bow for broad heads and not even bother with the rest at all, as you stated.

Your logic is sound, Sir.

It’s about time someone made a video about this. I have been saying this for years about all the miss information on the internet when it comes to bh tuning. It took me a long time to learn that it was all wrong.

I'll try it

Good video and what I've experienced, (with perfect, weak or stiff spine) is the vertical movements never change, but as you stated if you get a weak spine, good luck on the left and rights! What I also think should be stressed is the adjustment left or right should be extremely minor, (again like you stated 1/32" to 1/16" max). I shot Bowtech for many years and yoke tuning was so straight forward, but been shooting Prime past few years and have used your method of tuning my rest with solid results. My question, (since the new Primes are coming with top hats), when do you change/swap top hats over moving the rest?

That makes sense.

Great review and explained very well. Is aligning the spine of your arrow the same on every arrow as far as when you fletch them important for fixed heads? I shoot mechanicals and have never had an issue.

I'm willing to try anything. I've always moved the broadhead towards the field points and yes each little move the field points would also shift but the gap would be closer until finally they would be together. Always works for me. What you say makes sense, somewhat. But then again so does the other way. Broadheads hold a straight course because the blades make it plane the direction it leaves the bow. It could leave a bow funny for many reasons. I've just always moved the rest in the direction I want the broadhead to go. Field Point hits to the right of the broadhead so I steer the broadhead right towards the field point. Always works for me. I'm shooting a 475gr arrow at 272fps with a 27.5 inch draw so I would assume if it were a poor tune because of broadhead tuning the wrong way I would not get that kind of power. 🤷 I don't bother paper tuning. Too many times I've got perfect bullet holes which is supposed to mean a near perfect tune but then I always still have to broadhead and walk back tune.... I walk back tune when I broadhead tune from 20-50 and it's always served me well. I'm curious to try your method and see if once I achieve a broadhead and field point group together if my speed will drop, remain the same, or gain a few fps.

Respect👍

I absolutely agree and I really like your videos. I spine index my bare shaft, then bare shaft tune. Then I broad head tune. Question: Why bare shaft tune at all? Why not go directly to broad head tune?

What's the best way to sight in a black gold 5 pin pro Hunter

Thank you for your advice, it works! My broadheads (125gr Slick Trick Grizz Tricks) were shooting 3" to the right of my field points but they were grouping well. I just did the arrow rest adjustment, in the direction of my broadheads, and they eventually came together. Took about 30 mins of shooting and making very minor adjustments. Does this method work the same way if broadheads are hitting lower than field points? Should I also adjust the arrow rest down?

Thanks for your videos. I know many people have different ways of doing things and I am glad you are confident in your method. You are however opposite to pretty much everyone else out there and I personally don't see how it is going to work. It may help if you explained this all with a "first person" view so there is no confusing left and right. Simply put ..... if the arrow is flying to the left due to the rest. It would be logical to assume the rest is pointing it to the left. If you then move the rest further left, the problem will get worse. Please tell me how I'm wrong?

Question if moving for a correction left did I hit lower with field point. Hadn’t moved rest up or down yet. Thanks

Smacks self.....LOL. Great info!

I’m going to give the nock a little tweak first

Great video! What adjustments would you recommend for the Bowtech Deadlock system? You mention Bowtech two cam systems, but perhaps not the system that moves the cams laterally and therefore the string. For example, a BH hitting left of FP, would you move the cams right (i.e. opposite of the rest adjustments you would make in a similar scenario)?

I just did this day before yesterday, and my bow must have been way off. I had a slightly high and 4" to the right broadhead ( NAP hellrazor). I had to move the rest to the left to get them to impact together.

hmm I still don't get it. why the rest influences the tail (or the back part of the shaft) when it's horizontal, but then instead influences the point (or the front part of the shaft) when it comes to vertical? appreciate your clarification on this, bothering me quite a long time.

Does this apply to vertical axis as well? Using a whisker biscuit.

I don't have a press to add/remove twists in my string. Can you explain how to use a flexible cable guard to make adjustments for broadhead tuning?

Your bow will determine what way to go. I have eight compound bows, and all do their thing. Somethings the field point is left move the rest left, it may or not work; the bow will determine what will. Shift the rest may move the field point arrow further left or right now the board head where the field point was. More work to be done.

I have watched multiple videos on BH tuning. Assuming correct spine, Dudley, MFJJ, and several others (all who I greatly respect, admire and appreciate) advise to move the rest towards the field tip. That is, if BH is left of the field tip - move rest to the right (and vice versa). You advise the opposite. I have watched your video and read the comments. I'm BH tuning this weekend. I'm going with your advice. Based on the good reports below, I vote for a "cage match" video: Inside Out Precision vs. Podium Archery and NockOnArchery. The Ranch Fairy could referee.

Just a teaching tip. Instead of saying “move closer to the broad head” you should probably say something like “move it toward the impact location just like you would if you were sighting in your bow”. I thought for the longest you were telling me to move it forward.

Well, I guess that explains the issues I was having before hunting season. I thought it was a spine issue but maybe not as much as I thought.

Hope you can steer me in the right direction. First, thanks for that video...it was the most helpful so far. I have a Hoyt Helix, 70#, 29",340spine 28.25" arrows. Sight in with field tips fine, then broadheads corkscrew counter clockwise. Im hearing you explain about planing of the blades and that makes sense. My tear on paper is tip left, nock right...which yoke cables should I be adding twist to? Also, one video said that indicates too stiff of spine...340 seems right according to the charts (although I've shot 400 with my 70#pse for years...) Thanks again🤙🏾

If I have a newer Hoyt can I still use the rest move method since I do not have a bow press to do string twist method?

If the center shot is perfect using either a measurement from the riser or a laser pointer, why don't you yoke tune to get rid of the fishtailing paper tear?

Thanks for this video. There is SO much misinformation out there on this subject. I've literally threw my hands up and gave up in years past from fraustration. New bow and a field point test kit had me determined this year, I made up my mind to play with it both ways to see and understand what was happening this time. Shooting through paper was a revelation regarding form and grip. Proud to say I've got my new bow shooting bullet holes through paper, and at 40 yds. bareshaft are straight vertical and horizontal. Next up broadheads with fletch

Have you had any luck or experience with the Ethics archery spinning inserts? The idea seems legit, but IDK.. supposed to make this a non issue..

You're obviously right... When I have a perfect bare shaft, the bow is always also BH tuned, and when the bow isn't bare shaft tuned, the BH tipped arrow shows the same flight error as the bare shaft, just not so pronunced, so, to correct the flight of both, you have to make the same things.

Why would you move your rest off the center shot?

Are you worried about your paper tune if you’re adjusting the rest towards the broadhead?

Rest type make a difference? I can see a whisker biscuit and drop away behaving differently

Is that tigerstripe camo in the background on the left?

And also idc if your 7 or 8 hours away I would like To drive to the shop one day just to have you all really make sure my bow is set up correctly can’t find anybody within 3 hours of where I am that does true quality work and cares if my bow is set up correct or not where are you all located exactly?