You guys might not be doing it all perfect, but you're doing it ALL. And that's more than 99.999% of people on here can say. Keep rockin the dream. I hope to find myself in a place to build my forever home someday.

Good info I work for Wood-Mizer we always tell our customers in training expect 700-1000 BF between Resharp when you are not sawing get pressure off the blade to help relieve those fractures in gullet and get them resharped before the stress cracks go to far which can be as low as 2 cutting hours

It is nice to see all of the chaos that happened before the build. We were at the Shelter Institute while all this was going on and Blueberry was giving us updates on your progress.

I’ve seen truck tool boxes but never a truck that is literally a tool box!

Hey J. disconnecting the negative is the right choice, cause electricity flows from negative to positive. disconnecting the negative always prevents dangerous sparks

I have followed your vlog for a long time. I grew up in and worked at saw mill. I have not wanted interject about this mill because I have never used one of this type. However, if the deck and frame are square then level with ground is not relevant. Also, when you make your first cut it is the same plane as your blade so once again if your machine is square if you rotate the cut face to the bottom you won't have to fight with the log to get it where you want it for the subsequent cuts. Not trying to troll you, just trying to help. Love the videos and appreciate your hard work.

Who needs a tool drawer when you have a car 😁😁😁😁

This is an amazing project and I'm enjoying watching your progress. I know Jesse's stresses are huge. But Alyssa, you are amazing. I've literally been there done that (twice actually). When you were rubbing his shoulders when he was on the phone, AND holding a lazer level (I was holding a drill). You cook, clean, do the videos and I'm guessing handle the books too and all the shopping, laundry, pet care etc..... and then say "sorry" when you turn a heavy a$$ log......or worry about making a shadow when marking a log. I just want you to know I totally identify and appreciate all you are going through. Your home will be amazing. You truly have a servants heart!! Keep up the good work sweet lady. God Bless and Keep you both.

The reason you see the disconnect on the ground is so you can isolate the battery from the chassis ground for welding on the equipment (otherwise you can blow up the battery).

Jesse - I run one of these (LT40HD) for work. To avoid breaking bands, make sure no sawdust builds up under the belt on the wheel. Make sure you dont run out of water in the middle of a cut. When the band starts to have problems getting into the wood, or starts to make waves - change it. 2 hours is about right depending on the wood, but if it cuts good, leave it on. I usually use 2/day. To keep the water from freezing.... just empty the jug when you're done and blow out the line. It wont freeze while you're using it. NEVER let anyone stand beside the machine when the band is running.... it will come out of places you wouldn't think it could come out. Oh, and use that belt with the until it dies, its fine.

Your vlog has been reminding me of what a maternal aunt and cousin went through back when I was a teen. My maternal grandparents gave them a small plot along the border of the larger plot along a small ravine, and then my aunt started work on the house. A cousin came in to dig out the basement (and we had to blast some of the boulders in the process), we got the footers poured, a friend of Granddaddy's did the basement walls and framed things to the point where it was underroof, and from there, it was just a slow, long process of finishing things off. Granddaddy helped where he could, having been a homebuilder for years even after two accidents which nearly killed him and would have left any less stubborn and cantankerous individual totally crippled, but his life trials and being in his 70s kept him from doing more than advising and doing things where he could sit. My aunt's place was not as much of a build as my grandparents, but it was a massive undertaking, especially given my grandparent's place was built around 1950 with the help of 3 teenage boys, a couple of not quite teenage girls (less my aunt, who may have been like 6 at the time), and some other family members. The area where the house was did not have ready road access (just a fireroad) until around the time the house was done, and outside of things like cement, glass, wire, nails, and tubs/sinks, everything came from there at the property (including slate shingles cut from a ravine on the other side by hand). Granddaddy even had a sawmill with several saws, the biggest of which had a 4' diameter blade, to handle the trees which were felled by hand. Mom and I, with Dad's help, even did something similar but less extreme, and had a contractor build a house I still own, which was only partially finished. But outside of a few things, my grandparent's home was actually of far better quality than the one we had mostly built by a contractor, who cut corners and varied from the plans we had drawn up ourselves (and were every bit as good as, if not better than anything the contractor had ever used). So watching the two of you, it brings back memories of my Mom, Grandmother and Granddaddy, and other family members who had all passed before I was 30 (20+ years ago). And you two are doing great, and I look forward to watching the videos I have not yet seen. Thank you for sharing them with us.

Hard work, thanks for sharing your time and life, If I was younger I'd be right there with you. missed it when you didn't put out videos so thanks for that as well. ....carry-on

I know the house is already up but I'm watching this and shouting "͏you have the solution to the mill problem right in front of you!" Take some of your logs and cut a flat top and bottom and use them to build a simple crib for the feet of the mill to set on. A long heavy foundation would keep all the places where the feet touch in one plane, unlike 28 individual concrete blocks. As good as a concrete pad and 1/2 day time and zero cost.

Yes, battery cleanliness is paramount in especially in weather. Super clean terminals (shining like silver) can save you expensive voltage regulator and alternator problems. (With a faulty ground, the charging systems "cooks" the battery and the alternator.) Also keep the top of the battery clean and dry (phantom ground) and put a piece of plywood under the battery and keep dry. The ground is the proper side to disconnect and reduces the chance of a spark igniting hydrogen gasses.

Disconnector should be on the ground, because this takes away the risk of shortcutting the plus with the frame of the backhoe. If you shortcut the minus with the frame nothing bad will happen.

Also cutoff/disconnect switches go on the negative and fuses go on the positive

To those watching this, please do not touch the positive on a battery (like Jesse did) until you have disconnected the ground.

Our mill lube is dawn dish soap, windshield wiper fluid, a touch of olive oil and water. Find the ratio that works for you. More pine sap means more soap for the blade.

Could you maybe anchor each corner of the mill bed to the ground to keep it from moving? Maybe some auger type of anchor pulling at all for corners. Love the show.

For the battery drain. Disconnect the ground. Place a test light across the terminal to the cable. If the light lights up there is current connected or shorted somewhere. Pull fuses one at a time and when the light goes out you have isolated the circuit that is shorted or connected.

A block heater is always a good idea in cold climates.

General rule of thumb for batteries is disconnected negative first and when reconnecting battery negative is last. with the negative disconnected you can't accidentally short something out by accidentally touching a positive connection to ground because the battery is not grounded.

suggestion on the concrete pads if you decide to re-level make the pad 1 inch below grade(in bedded in ground) so they won't move then a hole in each pad same size as leveling peg so the mill won't move when big logs are moved around on it

Electrons are negatively charged. The electricity flows out of the negative pole of the battery. Disconnect the negative pole and the flow of electricity stops.

The sawmill has anchor pockets. Those rectangle tubes welded on the backside. Get some steel tubing that fits inside those, dig a hole directly under, insert tube through those and down into the hole, pour concrete. Boom no more movement.

Only another dozen videos of saw milling! Then another week of intro framing class. Then the one-day frame erecting. Hang in there viewers, you only got another month before seeing some kind of work on the house!

For the backhoe, check the voltage at the battery when the engine is running. If you see less than 13V at idle with all accessory on then your alternator is broken. When the engine has speeded up you should get about 14.4V at the battery. If you get less than 14 your alternator is probably faulty. Take note that it is possible that the battery have a partial internal short and discharge overnight by itself due to that. Also, if you fully charge the battery with an external charger, wait a few hours then mesure the voltage, you should get 12.5-12.7V, anything lower is a faulty battery. Diesel engine do not need power to run. In many case you can even remove the alternator and the battery and the engine will still run!

A thought to prevent the saw bed from moving, drive a post into the ground on each end of the bed to prevent it from moving. Keep on building!!

Couple of suggestions, if you want em: (btw thanks for the great videos. Your documentation and process is fun to watch and get ideas from.) 1): The alternator on any vehicle is only there to provide a trickle charge to "top off" the battery. It is not made to charge the battery from dead to full charge. It keeps going dead because what little charge it gets from the alternator is not enough to revive it. 2): if you use 2 lifting points for your loading and unloading of the mill, you will eliminate a lot of "teeter-totter" effect. 2 slings of the same length, looped thru the same shackle or clevis. Then space the straps apart on the log, and you have a much easier job of balancing things. Good luck and great work!

Woodmiser is rocking the customer service.

windshield wiper fluid is what I use on my mill while the temp is below freezing

What most people may not realise; These are very (long) logs, most people don't work with logs of this length, its very rare especially with this size of mill(sure you can add more sections, but you can also use a snow blower to clear a highway) We cut it to length then load it, it makes life much easier.

You always disconnect ground. For electricity is Negative charge. So electricity flows from negative to positive. Hence you disconnect "ground".

for your question at 2:00 the reason to break the ground and not the hot is so you don't pop your fuses. it's also when jumping a car you connect the ground last. Hope this helps.

I understand that my suggestion might be irrelevant by the time you read it. Have you thought about anchoring mill posted to the ground using C-shaped pieces of rebar hammered into the ground around each post? That won't completely eliminate mill movement when you put the log onto it, but it might greatly reduce that movement.

Everyone up here in Montana I know that has a mill uses windshield washer fluid in winter so it doesn't freeze

Eastern Washington is always blazing hot in summer and freezing cold in winter. Prepare! You've been through the seasons already there and should know what to expect. Climate change is not going to turn your valley into a tropical zone any time soon. ;-)

I know this was filmed weeks ago, but a solution to keeping your mill temporary without building a pad could be getting some 3 or 4 foot angle iron pieces and welding a top plate at one end. Drive those into the ground(might be a bit difficult with your rocky soil, but maybe rent a power hammer attachment for your backhoe) and secure the mill feet to the plates.

Yes, first 1k viewers! I've been watching your channel forever! Great insights into what really takes place behind the scenes. Not everything is perfect and I love how you don't hide mistakes or what goes wrong. I've been working on my own project for the last year, while finishing school and then working full time and I know firsthand that nothing goes according to plan! Keep it up!

The charge Voltage needs to be 13.8-14.2.. A battery can be down by 2/3 if its cold. A old diesel like that only needs about 5 volts to hold the stop solenoid on the pump.. I think you have an Alternator Fault..I have done this for 30

Any time you disconnect any battery always disconnect the ground first. When it is cold enough to freeze your oil it is cold enough to thicken the oil in your engine.

Set mill track legs temporarily in a anchor cement called Por Rock after it is releveled. Make sure blocks in ground won't move by packing extra soil around leveling blocks. If you want to improve shear strength drill 2 holes on either side of leveling legs and place a nail in it before slathering on the Por Rock. Por Rock is sold at most good hardware stores. When you want to move the mill break off anchor cement with a hammer. I have used Por Rock for many years setting anchors in concrete and setting grout pads for steel buildings with outstanding results. Good Luck!

We have a wood mizer in northern Maine. in the winter we use car windshield washer fluid ( the blue stuff) for blade lube. it stays liquid down to 20 below and is alcohol based. It's cheap too :)

A quick feed rate and a duller blade will make your cuts wander and bow when milling. Take a dremel and just touch up each tooth and you'll have a fresh blade after 5 mins of quick grinding. Save time and money! Something to think about for next time! Great work!

For a broom in our wood shop we use the little brush that comes with a dust pan to clean off our surfaces. Maybe that would be easier than the long handled broom...?

The Maximum size of a square post (side 'a') you can cut from a Log (of diameter ' d') is a=d/1.414. Example: If you need a 12" post, you will need a log with a diameter of 17".

That sawmill would drive me crazy!

You usually disconnect minus pole, because while using metal tools you can't shortcut the battery.

Not sure about electron flow, but negative disconnect is for safety. If negative is still connected to the chassis, then the battery will be shorted out if the positive touches ANYTHING (e.g with a spanner on the terminal), ANYWHERE on the chassis. With the negative disconnected, it's much safer.

J MAC: Having used both Wood Mizer and Lucas Mill's over the course of 2 years, cutting Australian hardwoods. The only difference I have found is cost and the finish, Wood Mizer costs more eg getting blades sharpened and maintenance but does give you a slightly better finish, Lucas Mills on the other hand cost way less for maintenance but leave a slightly courser finish. All that being said I'm in it to make money so I sold the Mizer and purchased another Lucas Mill.

Re battery disconnect: Remove pos cable. Grab a screwdriver and drop it such that the stem of screwdriver contacts the battery pos terminal and the tractor' s frame (without paint). Stand back while screw driver is spot welded to the tractor frame. After grinding off the screwdriver and possibly replacing battery, put the pos cable back onto the battery. Now remove the neg cable. Drop the screwdriver onto the pos terminal and tractor once again. Notice that nothing happens. Just for grins repeat drop but this time onto the neg terminal and the tractor. Again, nothing should happen. Which terminal would you disconnect? Some people like sparks😁

I worked construction with backhoes, loaders, etc. I believe you may have better luck loading your timbers using the front bucket. It handles more weight than the backhoe, and you can set the timber gently once, rather than having to re-set and drag the log.

Measure the circumference in the middle of the log, and divide it by 3.14 then times by 2 and you have the diameter

as the temperature changes the ground swells and moves too

Most backhoes use 2 heavy duty batteries (1000 cranking amps or better) to have enough power for the grid heater/glow plugs and starting systems. Also a good way to check for phantom loads, disconnect all the fuses/ loads from the battery and hook up your multimeter between your terminal and your battery cable, (i usually do it on the positive side). Then put your meter to amps and start plugging loads in until you find the draw. Also dirty battery’s can leech power through the battery case and cause a draw. Hope this helps

Pound in some re-bar anchors. Then fasten onto them with some metal hose clamps on the mill frame. North & South and East & West of several major frame major frame sections of the mill should keep it from sliding around and reduce the need for fiddling.....Bo.

Yep, windshield washer fluid with a bit of dishwashing detergent works fine

jESSIE, Water soluable oil is what people use for lubricant. Mix it a little heavier on the soluable oil when it is cold. You have probably discovered that frozen logs don't saw well if at all. Our saws ran 150 HP electric motors and even with a cautious slow feed there are days when blade damage requires just waiting for warmer temps. Best trick for how long to use a blade I saw in Boykins Va. They use four of these saws ganged to run together.making 4 cuts at a pass. and sometimes as little as one saw. They have alarm clocks on the saw arbor motors set to 7-1/2 hours to signal blade changes. Blade breakage comes from forcing a dull blade through the cut. Earl signs of dullness are the blade tracking up and down while cutting. Bad guide bearings two on each side of the blade and one or a creamic block behind the saw back edge. These are 1.20 each in Nachi brand from seller irvineman on Ebay. These guides need adjusted to be about two saw blade widths from the edge of the cut or less. The one leading in is more critical but either can take the "Back" out of the saw. The back edge is not a straight line but taper rolled tofit a 3 station guage. Finally only sharpen these blades once. I weld the broken ones back together unless they are split long ways and hammer weld to flatness on a block. The first cut needs the small end of the log shimmed up by half the diameter difference measured from the center pith point down to the side it will set on. Oposing wedges tapped in at a few intermediate points as needed for stability. The second face to cut is with the milled first face against the bed to get the faces parallel.

I really gotta admire the editing!

Drill a footing hole 1/2” into the concrete blocks. Then let the feet rest in the holes. They won’t move unless the feet actually shear off.

Those are some beautiful pieces you're milling there.

When you finish milling for the day, release the tension on the saw blade so that it does not shrink when the overnight temperature drops. Also try a little diesel in the coolant.

I LOOKED AT A LOT OF MILLS, I LIKE THE ONES THAT YOU PUT THE LOG ON A SLAB AND THE SAW IS SUSPENDED OVER IT, LOOKS LIKE LESS TROUBLE

I know it sounds counter intuitive to unhook the negative side of the battery. But the power actually flows negative to positive. Not positive to negative.

Loving the project, awesome work guys! As someone who has some experience running 4 bandsaws (8'+ tall, 18'4" blades) here in the UK at plastic recycling plant, would highly recommend looking at M42 bi-metallic bandsaw blades on your saw mill. I've saved sooo much money running these as they are a lot more hard wearing and forgiving... almost double the price, but in my experience last 10x as long. They don't snap as nearly as much as cheap carbon steel blades which seem VERY brittle. Hope this helps!

The reason to disconnect the ground first, is it makes it safer to to disconnect the positive. If you leave the ground connected. Then disconnect the positive, if say using a spanner and it touch ground, you have short circuited the battery. If you are disconnecting the negative and spanner slips, it is a ground to ground so no large bangs

tradsman channel is pretty good at figuring out what you can get out of a log

I know you don't have much time but when you can check out on you tube Josaljo Won "Progress on the sawmill" on how he set up his LT15 on a slab.Also a lot of sawyers use windshield fluid in their water tanks but when it gets really cold either drain the tank or take inside where it won't freeze. Keep up the great work!

Just a quick comment to keep your sawmill in a secured level location. Pound in 4 t-post at a 30-degree or more angle to bed rails and anchor each bed rail to the t-post with a steel cable and cable tensionner. The solution is inexpensive and will stop the mill from moving end to end when you have to slide a log for better positioning. Good luck and thanks for the awesome videos.

Jesse do this to check to see if in reality you have a drain on the battery or just a bad battery. First make sure everything is off on the tractor, than take a volt meter on the amp scale and disconnect the ground cable and attach the volt meter ground to the battery post. After that connect the positive lead from the volt meter to the ground cable on the tractor, make sure that your positive lead is plugged into the amp connector on your meter if not it will damage the meter, also make sure that when everything is connected the ground cable and the ground post do not touch or you will get false readings. If you see anything more than a .04 amp draw than in fact the tractor has a drain somewhere. If its less than it is the battery failing and needs to be replaced. I will tell you with over 10 years of experience with automotive electrical systems this will give you the answer you need so you are not guessing.

Have you considered using mobile home anchors in the ground next to your mill and use the banding to hold your mill bed in place. Hope this helps. You guys are doing a great job!! Keep up the hard work it will be sssooo worth when your done!!

use tap-cons to secure the mill to you cement blocks. I put my mill on railroad ties and bolted it to them.

Your battery, a quick way to check for a discharge or if something is pulling a draw is to do this simple test. Disconnect the neg post, put one end of the test light on the battery post, and the other on the terminal: if the light come on, there is something pulling a draw on the battery. Your battery disconnect switch can be done the same way. This will ensure that you do not have a draw on your battery at all. You are correct with getting the battery tested, cold cranking amps (CCA) are only one of the tests you can do, another is to have it load tested. First thing to do is ensure that the battery cells are filled with fluid prior to testing. Hook up your disconnect switch correctly and there should never be a draw on it ever again.

Half windshield washer fluid and water for you blades. Thats what they run in my fathers mills all winter here in Canada

great job guys loved todays video !!

The 1st time you killed the battery you shortened it's life. The 2nd time you killed the battery you shortened it's life even more. The 3rd time you killed the battery you shortened it's life even more.

We used a couple of Optima's Red Top batteries in our 1 ton diesel truck, and no longer have battery issues. Sealed batteries are the way to go for off road applications. Less leakage. IMO

You can use a multi-meter to quickly check if there is a draw on the battery when the tractor is off. I think it'd be worth a look to just see if there is a draw at all or if the problem lies elsewhere.

Yay just in time for me to watch before bed

As a suggestion: Lay some stripes of wood beneath the cutten wood - on rainy days the wood can't dry laying directly on each other.

New battery with higher cranking amps. Love yalls videos. Yall are hard workers very motivating

Put your foot pads on wood blocks with recesses for your foot pads. make the recesses with a foster bit drill. should keep the bed from moving on your mill.

Mount the bed on beams. Use windshield fluid to lube blade use the type that doesn’t freeze

After calibrating the mill table could you secure the table to the ground with anchors and straps or cables and turnbuckles. The weight differential between the table and the logs is such (10 to 100 to 1?) that even a small log bump into the table will move the table.

I have no idea about other brands of equipment but on John Deere tractors the alternator does not charge until the engine is at 900 RPM or above. Farm equipment is not intended or made to set at idle speed for long periods of time. If your backhoe alternator works the same and you idle for long periods of time, it may not be charging.

Lift log off pile, lay log on ground beside mill, push log on ground to where it needs to be. Lift log and place it on mill. Mill stays in place.

Those slab scraps would make a cool bench.

Yes, always good to occasionally refresh your memory on the maintenance of the saw/backhoe, etc. Saaaaaay, isn't that the wobbling tower of death I see over there? When you replace the blade, it might be a good time to do a lube on the mill. I'm sure you found out what mill lube to use in the manual, and perhaps a suggestion to store the extra lube inside a building for extra warmth. I think you said you had propane heaters, which might work nicely to warm your mill head before use in freezing temps. Stand downwind of it to get yourself warm at the same time. Got a raincoat for it, too? The positive cable is usually the one to have the disconnect in it because most of the vehicle is a ground and the positive wire will spark. Best practice is to remove the negative cable so your wrench won't arc on the body when removing loosening it. If the battery is 4 years old or older, just replace it. One way to test the starting system on the backhoe is to remove the negative cable from the battery and hook up the jumper cables from the truck without the hoe battery in the circuit. If it still cranks hard, it may be the starter. Now that you have battery problems, it's a good time to leave the battery disconnected and check every connection on the hoe. The grounded end of the ground cable and both ends of the positive. Get a battery brush if you don't already have one. A brass brush works well to clean terminals and connections, too. I highly recommend the battery protectant spray (red stuff) after you hook all the clean connections back together. It helps prevent corrosion which would otherwise cause earlier maintenance chores. While you're at it, do all the vehicle and solar batteries, and use protectant on them all, as well. I know it will take 1.5-2 hours, but it will save more than that in the long run. (Murphy says he's waiting for you to miss one, and he'll take care of that. ;) Check the tension on the new saw band once in awhile. New ones stretch a bit and a loose belt can either come off or vibrate enough to break or cause other issues. DAMHIKT. That's a big beauty of a log you chose to cut. Yes, AnchorSeal, wax, and oil are good things, and are cheaper by the (1 or 5) gallon bucket. Best practice is to turn the doped plumbing joints 1/4 turn as assembling. Oh, re: the sawmill, if you're going to move it later, you can still anchor it with something like this: tinyurl.com/ya7q6fjk Use turnbuckles, eyebolts, and chain, with holes drilled in the Woodmiser frame or hooks on edges. I'd cross-anchor both ends and front/back anchor the middle, were it my saw. And a blower would get the sawdust off both the wood and mill quicker than you can with the broom. I bought a little Makita battery powered one for small work I did as a handyman, and it still works like a charm. tinyurl.com/yby24m4r RE: shimming the log, Alyssa, a little plastic mallet will keep you from having to work so hard. You never invested in the $30 HF 72-inch level, huh? OMG, they're $12 or $20 now. Mine remains accurate 12 years later. tinyurl.com/y9bvhl4a You guys wore the sun out on that last beam. Congrats. Go have some ice cream! Jesse, now it's time to return Alyssa's neck rub.

You are correct for inspecting knots near beam edges. In general, it is the outer , top and bottom, perhaps 20% that determines a beams total capacity. However, consider the nature of a tight knot. We are not considering a loose knot, nor a knot that the annular surfaces on an edge and will become loose in the aging and curing process. The tension side should be as straight a grain as possible. The tension side usually is the bottom on a simple span,, sometimes the top where considering a multiple span. Small knots may actually be a good thing, they can tie the grains together and will resist splitting. On the compression side, usually the top of a simple span, tight knots that do not surface on an edge, are little or no problem. There can even be a case made the tight knots and accompanying swirled grain has a greater compressive strength. Trust your eye and instinct, you are doing fine. Rip blades need a bench and vise and a fine mill or mill bastard file to hand sharpen. The first time you and sharpen it will take an hour,, get the hang of it,,, takes ten minutes. Two or three hand sharpenings only,, then send it off or buy new. Big operations,, the bandsaw has a welder on the side to weld up a new blade as required. Big operations on line current, that is,,,

The diodes in the alternator are electrical gates,when they are good,t6he power can only go 1 way,when the diodes go bad,they will allow power to go both ways. Ergo DEAD battery in the morning.

Just a splash of rv antifreeze it's safe to ingest and its basically alcohol with a additive to help it blend with the water.

Why not grade the area under the mill level as best you can and add sand. Then drop in some imperfect heavy long boards. Re-calibrate the mill with laser. After re calibration, nail wood blocks by feet to prevent horizontal movement.

Put a test light between the disconected bat cable and the bat stud ... If the test light lights there is a draw ... No light replace the battery..... Doesnt matter what cable ......... If it shows a draw (light on) disconnect fuzes till the test light goes off.... That will show what area the short or 12 volt draw is in ........ Hope this helps Make sure the key is off durring test

Alisa "we got the bed Levelish again" :-)

As a mechanic, disconnects always go on the ground. That being said some equipment does run a positive ground. But us always disconnect the ground. Furthermore you should be removing the ground first and connecting the ground last unlike it looks like you have been doing. The reason for this is because if you do it the opposite way and your wrench touches anything it will short out.

If you disconnect the negative you wont short out you spanner. After the ground is off it does not matter if you touch the ground while undoing the positive.

Why don't you level your bed, put a few anchor bolts through the mill's feet into your concrete pads. If there is not enough mass in the concrete pads then use some of your small rocks as ballast like they do with rail sleepers. You could even use some guy wires to hold the mill in place. Try the anchor bolts and ballast first.

The absolutely best lubricant for band blades is diesel and or ATF but you will probably get smelly beams. I use winter windshield washer mixed with clean water and a little extra dish soap. I have no problems with this. It's cheap and the detergent in the washer cuts the resin of the wood, it doesn't smell or get sticky or color the wood.

Mount it to a trailer bed, remove the wheels and set posts to weld to into the ground, should hold up and be removable later.

I have an idea, how about using a trailer ( mobile home ) tie down. The one that cork screws into the ground. Put one on each end of the mill at an angle then strap the mill to it tight , working the screws against each other. It seams like it will at least prevent a lot of that movement.