Currently rebuilding my '08 4.7 so this series of videos is a real God send!! Thank you Brian!! Excellent build/video quality, and Many Blessings brother!!

Love you videos! Rebuilding my 3.7 and these videos are a great reference!

Thank you brother! I'm doing a full rebuild on mine. I'm glad I found you're video! Thank You! Very Good job demonstration and video!

Great video. I like how you take the time to explain it all. I am working on my 4.7. This helps a ton.

Wow ! Thanks for making that detailed video ! You did a great job !

Thank you very much for the video, from an owner of a 1997 B2500 Van with a V6 3.9 in it.

Thanks Bryan for the excellent video resource, attempting one rebuild like this myself... 2002 dodge ram, using 32 teeth crank tune wheel to fit my 2003 dodge ram 4.7L

I’ve been patiently awaiting this video since I just finished rebuilding my 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 4.7l v8. I wished I had fully rebuilt mine, but when a buddy of mine said if I change my pistons I’d most likely need the crank rebalanced if there was any deviation in weight from the stock pistons. So basically I just completely tore everything down, cleaned everything up, and reinstalled it all. Only new parts I put in was the heads since my original issue was a blown head gasket, or they had warped or cracked. Great videos man.

Been patiently waiting for these videos. I've used STP oil treatment and Lucas for assembly lube many times. My dad showed me that one. Hearing his stories of rebuilding Chebby 283's for his '57 Bel Air. But a total fresh rebuild like this one I use the assembly lube, especially if it may not go in right away. I was watching you put the lube on, I'm thinking "the machine shop musta plasti-gauged it already" lol That Strap-On torque wrench is pretty sweet. I should take out a second mortgage on the house and get one lol. I do my rings the same way, never cared for the ring pliers. I try and stagger the ring gaps equally around the piston. Makes me feel better doing it. I know they move around, but I saw a guy once who didn't, and it smoked and had blow-by pretty bad. Great job as usual Bryan, keep em coming!!!

Your Video series are great. I have been watching them over and over again. I did the top end of my engine, now I am doing the bottom end. I know you said some things you did not show on the video because it would make it too long. But if you have the clips of you installing the piston on the rod, you could post that as a different video. As well as how you gapped the rings. Nice work all in all. I have enjoyed and learned a lot from your videos. Very Humble sir.

Look at that bottom end. Wow. That's strong. One peace. 30000 bolts holding that crank to the block. Nice. Why didn't dodge do more with this engine? Should of made the same engine a 5.7

Had a head gasket blow on my 2002 Durango (4.7). Too "new" for me to fix; esp. w/my now being a disabled senior, Got a grant through my electric company's "roundup" program to get the head gasket done at a local shop, (Which took time; &, it sat at a friend's house for about 10 weeks - including during a polar vortex.) They got into it & found that the timing chain tensioners & guides were crumbling. I maxed out my credit card getting parts & paying for labor on that. Got a call that the jobs were finished; but, I needed to come listen to it. I did that about 4 days ago. DEFINITE lower end knocking. The assumption is that water in the crankcase had rusted (or otherwise damaged) the lower end bearings. (I'd checked the dip stick while awaiting the tow truck; &, the oil looked good; but, when they did the oil change, they said there was @ a gallon of water/antifreeze that had come out with the old oil. I NEED THIS TRUCK - DESPERATELY!!! I'm also trying to pull my life back together from a fire just 10 days shy of 1 year ago, leaving me pretty much destitute. I need it to be able to "curb shop" for what I need, to be able to drag trees & debris away from the area my propane supplier would have to get into in order to move my propane tank down to where the (old, uninsulated, & without real doors) camper trailer I'm staying in is located. Also, in the meantime, I'm getting very basic errands done thanks to a friend who's loaning me his spare car - which he's needing to put up for sale. At just about a month shy of 69, I'm not able to drag stuff by hand; &, fall (A LOT) even just walking around with my hands free!!! It could take several months before I'll even be able to order the parts from RockAuto; &, even then, I'll pretty well have to tackle the job pretty much on my own. A fellow I know is in the process of buying a shop; &, he's said I'd be able to do it there & that he'd help a bit on the physical stuff; but, I've learned over the years to not count on any help until after it's happened. Hopefully, that will come through & I'll at least have access to a lift. Questions: 1) I remember from back in the early '80's that unscrupulous used car lots would "temporarily fix" lower end damage with an oil additive - I'm thinking it was Marvel Mystery Oil; but, my memory isn't what it used to be. Anyone out there remember for sure what it was and/or how long it worked for? 2) When I can get the parts, is there a way to do the lower end stuff from underneath, without having to redo what's already been done? 3) If so, what steps do I need to take to make CERTAIN that I get the crank back in without messing up the timing? 3) If so, what steps do I need to take to make CERTAIN that I get the crank back in without messing up the timing? Side notes: I was the 2nd female motorcycle mechanic in the state of Oklahoma; &, built my own 45 flat head Harley from "a basket;" but, that was in the mid-70's. In the early '80's, I drifted off into doing a wide variety of other stuff. Until this happened in Oct., no vehicle of mine had ever been sent to a shop. In @1991, I did a head gasket job on the '73 F-150 I had (back when you could still climb in & stand on the front axle!) I've never had a vehicle that was this "new," though... When all this computerized crap came along, I got pretty well "lost." My solution was to stay with the oldest vehicles I could get, mainly ones that look like crap but ran decently. The tags were cheaper & I could typically fix things that went wrong. Those are getting REALLY hard to find these days, though. Anyway... I definitely "know the difference between an open end & a box end;" &, I'm not "afraid of getting grease under my fingernails." Unfortunately, my body's "pretty well shot;" &, my brain isn't lagging too far behind. (Too many years of telling my body "When I want your opinion, I'LL GIVE YOU ONE!...")

Where do you get the spec sheets?

What did you do for connecting rod bolts? FSM says they're TTY and I'm having a hell of a time finding them

Thanks!

Hey im rebuilding an '03 4.7 durango motor and your videos are great help. But on the block when do you put in the rear seal? Or did I miss that part?

This has been a very good series on the 4.7 but you may have made a mistake with the torque specs on the mains. The FSM lists bolts 1-10 as 25 inch/lbs + 90°, not 25 ft/lbs + 90° as you indicated. I couldn't clearly read the writing on the list, so it just might have been an oversight since 25 in/lbs is so light. I know this a 4 yr old video but thought I should still bring it up since it's one of the best on 4.7's! Great work, thanks for creating it.

Do they sell the galley plugs and the freeze plugs as a kit? I'm doing a 5.7 v8 and I'm trying to gather all the small parts before the block and Eads get out of the shop

I have a question on the main bearing cap bolts, your list say 25 in. lba not ft, lbs. My repair book says 25 in, lbs but that seems to light a setting. Called the dealer and was not much better, he said 20 but not in inches, so 25 ft. Lbs sounds good after all. Hope that helps someone.

What machine shop in sactown did the valve seat work?

Do the ring gaps need to be timed a certain way ?

Great video I noticed that you did not explain about ring placement position? you know like one being at 10 o'clock the other at 4 and the other and 8 then 2? Also, what was the final torq of the rods after the 90final degrees? Thanks

Bryan this is an excellent series! I'm getting a re-manufactured 4.7 ready to go into a 2002 Grand Cherokee and I see the bottom plate where the oil pan seals to has some pretty good gouges in it - someone obviously without your expertise, got way to rough getting one off prior to the rebuild. Do you think some thin RTV is warranted or should the Mopar OEM gasket handle it? Thank you for all your fantastic vids. Sure miss you posting from the shop. Too bad over-regulation and other nonsense got in the way of good honest mechanic skills!

Brian, great video. I have watched the whole series. I am doing this job on my wife's '-06 Commander now. It had 245k miles on it and decided to drop a valve seat. I sent the heads out to a local guy that is highly recommended and another shop to do the lower end. Got the heads back and waiting on the block. Stupid question here. What bolts, length and size, did you use to mount to the engine stand? Thanks for the videos. They are the only reason I decided to tackle this job. David

Great video brian , Its OK to use the original lifters or did you replace them? Mine has over 208,000 miles on it . I'm replacing my water pump and timing chain cover gasket. Ran good when I bought it. Should I leave the timing chain guides and tensioners alone?

How much did all the machine shop work cost you?

how much should i expect to pay to have all the short block done and assembled by a machine shop? only the block

can you do the plastigauge without applying silicone in order to check your tolerances?

correct if I am wrong but the spec sheet you showed us said it was a single overhead cam with 16 valves. The 4.7 is a D.O.H.C with 2 valves per cylinder with only 1 spark plug per cylinder. I only mention that because the later 5.7 went 2 plugs per cylinder.

Great video series Bryan...it helped me immensely as I am old school Mopar. Question: The freeze plug kit came with 10 ea. 1-3/8 plugs and 1ea. 11/16 plug .Where does the small plug go...did I miss it somewhere?

What is the normal price difference between a complete rebuild and just buying a short block? By the way enjoying videos and hope to rebuild my 2006 Dodge Ram with 4.7. Have 231000 miles on it right now.

Hey Bryan on bolts 1-10 it says 25 inch pounds which is like 2ft lbs...what am I missing here?

I emailed about buying the top end specs from you.

Im rebuilding my 4.7, are bolts 1-10 for the bedplate supposed to be 25 Ft lbs or 25 in lbs? Everything online is saying inch pounds and I noticed you used foot pounds.

What kind of thread sealer are you using?

Hey Bryan where did you get all your sheets with specs from? Thanks

My dad is rebuilding this exact engine and is using your videos to guide him - so a BIG thank you for this series. For the bedplate bolt torque specs: bolts 1-10 read 25 in. lbs... but in the video you said ft lbs and set your torque wrench to 25 ft lbs. Can you clarify this? Thank you in advance!!

you didn't say anything about new connecting rod bolts so you can reuse them even if there tty?

37:00 torque sequence

What kind of sealant did u use for bed plate to block?

Does the oil pump mating surface need any sealant?

Crank bolts 1-10 are set to 25 inch lbs + 90 degrees not foot lbs

Were did you get the new bed plate bolts and head bolts at please.

Shit did 2mo.ago and have not got it 😢

Almost fell asleep 😴

You didnt gap the rings?

En español porfavor 🙏

You didn't check clearances

Hey, I need your assistance on my truck situation here bc I believe that it may have for me to rebuild the 4.7 engine of mines. If you would give me your email or # do that we can elaborate or communicate