I've got a customers 119 on my bench right now. This knife is damn stubborn. Hell of a job man. I had the same issue where some of my finer stones dulled the shit out of it. Stropped it out and got good results. Watched your video. Helped me get a customers knife back in their hands!

Great job! I like the look of those Buck's. Makes me think of what the old timers would carry on their belts.

That SOUND cutting the last piece of paper : TOO SHARP Excellent job !

I'm sorry to hear about your health problem I got you on my prayer list 🙏🙏 Thank you for the great video 💯💯

Thank you the vid! This was the first knife I bought back in 1984. I got the buck sharping kit . Studied the directions and figured I would learn how to keep it sharp. Well I never could get it even close to the edge it had when I got it. I figured I was just no good at it. I finally threw the knife in my old hunting gear box. The years go by and I don’t have any problem getting other my knifes sharp. I tried to get a nice edge again a few days ago. Again no good!!! What the hell. I decided to check KZfaq. Thanks you solved my 38 year old mystery!!!

Thank you for the sharpening tutorial I hope you get better

Just received a new 119 in 440C. I really enjoyed your video and think I will try to polish the edge a bit with a finishing hone. I purchased a Randall knife for my son for high school graduation and there are honestly more similarities than differences in these knives. Had to get him a Randall but there is a lot to be said for the Buck 119.

ive got a new (old) rarely used 119 from '72-'86, and its got the same exact blade profile as this one. the knife being narrower closer to the guard is just how they came back then. Compare that to a brand new off the shelf 119 and its a lot different. this old design gives the front of the blade a lot more belly for slicing, compared to the new knives "belly" that looks a lot more like a kabar clip point.

I have two 119,one 440 other 20cv. The 440 used to clean birds,the 20cv with rosewood handles is just a looker

Glad to hear your moving in soon. Take care of yourself.

Just broke out my 119 from the 80's my dads and it is one hard SoB to sharpen for sure

That was one of the first knives I bought with my own money that was any count.

First off big fan of the channel. You've really helped me "slow down" and enjoy the sharpening experience. Its become my beer after a long day kinda thing. Relaxing. Anyway, getting more comfortable with my arkansas but for some reason the blade curve to the tip iam having inconsistent results. Some turn out great others I just chase and chase. I seem to lift too much or too little. Any advice as to finding that perfect "lift"? Thanks again for all the great info

Hey, Chris, Sorry I was slow on the draw, but I'm out of high-speed until Saturday...took forever to watch. Best video I've seen yet (for selfish reasons). What I mean is....I can think of Case "Tru-Sharp" stainless....I've pushed them with Arkansas stones to that "slick" point you spoke about where the "bite" disappears. Hell, it's sharp...but a different sort of sharp. I've started to developed a theory about it....coming from what I know about woodworking, Japanese cooking and being a butcher in the Navy. Polished edges are what you want for cutting "along the grain" ,as in wood or making precise fancy cuts in fish for sashimi with really thin blades...or razors, for that matter...if it's a thin blade. But, you dont want it for cutting down through a big chunk of meat. You need that "bite" you were talking about. When you encounter gristle or the "silver skin" on a muscle...yes, a polished edge will cut it, but, you have to apply pressure and it throws off the accuracy of the cut. That's why the Norton Tri-Hones go up to soft Arkansas, max, and those awful Tru Hone electric sharpeners that are used in so many butcher shops come with 220 (American) grit, standard. That and a steel power's a lot of meat cutting. It was great to see you sharpening knives for a fellow who uses them and you knew what for. I thought it was genius for you to catch what was happening after you hit that hard Arkansas. Good on you, Boy! Cheers, Wayne

Thanks, I love my BUCK 119

Bark river white compound is 12,000 grit Great video as alway brother!

I'm also (re)watching your older videos. About knives, exept kitchen knives, always is better to have a more wider blade in the front part, and narrower to the handle. Nice stones, nice sharpening time. Have another like guaranteed!👍

out of all my knives, the buck 119 is the hardest for me to sharpen. It just won't get as sharp as my other knives.

Awesome video. Thanks. I have a Buck 119.

Another good job bud! What is the cause of metal doing that? I have ran into that with some 1095. I have carried a 80t Old Timer for over 20 years & now it does that to me. Could it be from being sharpened so many times over the years?

View 12. Glad to see you.

I have missed the stones used (name and grit), but can you provide a list of which stones are being used?

I used to have an old Buck 119, but I have no idea what became of it. Hopefully, it's in one of the Jeeps...

Great video!I appreciate you sharing!I just subscribed 🔪👍

May I please ask you a question?. Would you recomend water stones or oil stones for a learner? I thank you for your concideration of my question, sir; Regards.

Sharper than SHARP!

I still own two of my Buck knives from the late sixties and those old ones were a bear to sharpen.

Great video man I'm getting the medium and hard grit Arkansas wet stones from Dan's would you say those would be good for my buck knife

Hey, you gotta do what you need to. And as far as health issues go, do what you can to get that sorted. I ain't going nowhere.

I wonder what will buff those scratches on the blade? A buffing wheel with some compound maybe?

What stone is that?

I like Buck knife. But I'm definitely not in love with them. LOL 🤣

That stone would probably be considered a #1 by anyone else but Dan's. Their grading system is uncompromising, and one of the biggest reasons to shop them. Period.

I've got Marbles Deluxe Arkansas stones. Soft and Hard Black. Never lapped it after received it, It's a joy to use but both start to burnished. Can a sandpaper be sufficient to lap these stones?

The Crystalon are great stones. So are the Indias. Norton know what they are doing with abrasives.

Nicely done

Looking good Rooster! Hope you get your health stuff straightened out. Good luck with the move buddy.

Mister I don't have a fancy Stone like yours but I have a buck 119 who regrettably to say pretty much ate at the edge of my file and is resisting my stone would you agree that maybe I have maybe and older buck 119

Thinking of you RR. Hope you’re well.

Leave no meat on that edge!

I've been thinking about picking up the 119 Pro in S35VN. I own a Buck 110 that I bought In 1978 and I"ve got a newer Buck Compadre in 5160. What are your thoughts on the 119 in S35VN?

Rooster, once I raise a burr on one side flip and move burr to the other, how doI remove the burr? Thanx

what grit sharpening stone should i get i need one for sharpening my 119 just to keep it razor sharp

cool

How much do you charge for sharpening a buck 119 from the 70's.?

What degree angle are you holding at when swiping that blade across them stones 22° just guessing get the health issues taken care of your daughter needs her old man around for along time thanks .

Watching all your old videos hope your doing well haven't talk to u in and long time

I reach for a Soft alot.

Why don't you use strops for some slipjoints I've seen in the past

The person that did that to that knife is a fool.

Never put presure with your fingers, on any blade part, that it's not touching the stone. Obviusle, this stone is norrow for that blade length, but it's your techinc, that can't sharpen properly, rather than the stone. You also don't keep the same angle degrees on both sides, you do the same mistake we all do and keep a higher angle when sharpening towards our selves. Just remember, you never put your fingers on the blade part, that doesn't touch the stone, no matter how rock solide the blade is. Always put your 3 fingers, on the blade part, that touches the stone.

I see you found your slip

Could a man put a decent edge on that knife by using a file?

You never say what grit your using you only naming the company of the stone and that's no help to anyone, Or you're going to show how to shaping our knife or represent the maker of the stone put it in a different video.

FRRRRAKOSTO 2024 64 65 URO RSO DOPO FRRAKOSTO PRNDO IL 4 MAK KUSTO O IL K LIT ZTL BLLACK

That's where low alloy steels really suffer. That old 420hc will get slick as cow slobber if you take it very high. Around 80 micron is as fine as I will go on 420hc. Keep it in the 80-100 micron range as your finish stone and finish with a couple passes on some 15 micron diamond on hard leather. Will leave you a fantastic edge with tons of bite and really will get the most out of 420hc. Take it much finer then that and you will get slick and have a poor preforming edge that will give up extremely quick just from loosing all its bite. In soft low alloy steels like 420hc all your cutting performance is in the micro serrations the stone creates (due to having no carbide volume to create bite/tooth in the apex thru use). A hard ark is imho way to fine of an edge for steels like this, I could see a good quality soft ark but that is even to fine imo. For me it would be 80 to 100 micron in resin diamond stones or diamond film or if it's on water stones I would finish on like a shapton glass 500 (30 micron). Remember when im saying a 80 micron finish I'm speaking exclusively to resin diamond stones like my Venev Dragon stones or some custom 3x8 Metallic bonded cbn stones I had made for me. In your more traditional grit scale (JIS) I would finish around 500g/30um. Another really fantastic finish stone for buck done 420hc is just a good old Dia-Sharp course. I'm not saying your wrong in taking it that fine so please don't take it that way, I'm simply explaining how I finish steels like this. I have done plenty of cut testing on different mediums to see where edges hold up the best and maintain bite the longest and I can safely say that in a JIS scale 600 would be the absolute finest I would ever finish it with the peak in edge retention while maintaining bite would be off a Venev F150 or a Shapton glass 500. There is nothing more I hate then a slick edge, I want to feel those micro serrations bite my fingers as soon as I touch that edge with the lightest of pressure.