A tip about moving water faster over the stove is looking at that "T" behind the stove. Driving cold and warm water thru the same "T" is not good. The water doesn't know were to go, warm and cold water is fighting each other. The solution is a "Y" instead. Here you tell the most of the water were to go. I know this because I was involved when the first Suzuki 250 four stroke crosscycles was released about 20 years ago and they had a "T" in their watercooling system and they always ran to warm. A "Y" took care of that engineer mistake. Just a thought, I don't know anything about oilstoves but I find all of your videos very interesting. I found your channel yesterday and making my way thru all of your videos. Subscribed of course👍

Years ago I had a metal shed. I put in a wooden frame. It made it so much easier to mount whatever I needed

just a note on the E-stop; you can get E-stop buttons with a built-in solenoid you can trigger with the PLC on a fault condition, that way your final lockout safety is in hardware (since the PLC cuts power to itself by doing so)

I would reiterate my comment from video1, try winding the coils BESIDE each other so the inputs are at the hot end and the outputs are at the cold end (not normal). As you have a PLC, you might want to have an "idle" position for the boiler. We ALWAYS ran our boilers at temp, or 10°-20° lower, even when the circulators were not pumping to the load. This greatly attenuated the accumulation of soot on the fire side and internal scaling on the water side. normally this would require either a three way valve or a second loop and another pump. You COULD have that be a function of temp in the house. With this kind of system, you can always chase the little gremlins down and eliminate them, if they are a major pain to remedy while being a minor problem to live with, you can just make a note and continue onward. Don't make the common mistake of just putting a big pump in to overpower everything. Temperature transfer is optimum when the liquid is moving just fast enough to not get too hot. I like what you have done, it works way better than I thought. The carbon is the biggest downfall to this type of heat exchanger. Our boilers were fire tube boilers with the water on the outside of the pipes. It's a lot easier cleaning them out. Open the end doors and run a spinning metal brush with water through the tubes and you are ready to continue. We only had to do this every 2-3 years as we ran natural gas. Just retired as the electronics tech (very wide job description) of a facilities maintenance team. I had 8800 inputs and outputs in our PLC network. 30yrs. Michael in Colorado.

I know this is a 2 year old video and you may not see this or you’ve already fixed the issue. I think the reason for the buildup on the inside walls and the ceiling of your shanty is because the chimney pipe is connected inside the exhaust of the boiler so small amounts of flue gasses are seeping out around the connection. The chimney should overlap the exhaust but you can fix this with some foil tape around that seam.

I like your idea it makes me want to build me one for my house. Years ago I built a used oil heater for my shop. You have a good head on you thinks

Enjoying your channel. A " bunch " of ladybugs is called a " bloom " !

Really nice job🙂

Water boiling means you need to cycle your flame on and off or you need a larger water storage tank, cycling your flame is the answer

AT TIMES YOU SOUND LIKE ON OF MY FAVORITE COMEDIANS LEWIS GRIZZARD!

Aqumulator from some form of refrigeration system would work great for that purpose

Hey love your channel...i did subscribe....on your heater maybe use a thicker tube like steel instead of stainless and use 3/4 or 1 inch tubing and make it its own line to recycle itself.

So, to answer your question, a group of ladybugs is called a Loveliness. I really like this one. A Loveliness of Ladybugs! Wonderful huh?

Over pressure of the ammo can is because the tank outside needs to be vented.

I was always told and told some more that ladybugs are a sign of good karma, good person, good luck. You must be the "MAN". I can tell you ate your spinach for the trailer hitch lift. You must have a stronger back than myself, P.S. hope it healed. Using a steel yard shed is just brilliant fella. Where is a good place to buy PLC and components ??? Thank you for the education on waste oil boiler science. I will use this wisely and stick it to the Gas and Oil companies who just love to screw us all. Peace and God bless too. VF

I think I may have gotten the ideas for my hot air furnace (not a boiler) from the same guy you read about. At least, some of the ideas on the operation of the burner and controls and electronics are the same. What I have found by experience is this: You don't need a preheater in the ammo can next to the tank. It's useless and a waste of energy. There is plenty of heat in the nozzle heater to make the oil hot enough to atomize. If the siphon nozzle has problems picking up the oil, you can simply add a little gas or diesel to your used oil to thin it out. I have never had trouble with my ammo can reservoir, unheated. Next, your ammo can seems rather low in the video, several inches below the level of the nozzle. Not good. It should be about two inches from the level in the tank to the level of the nozzle. Think of an automotive paint sprayer. Next I have an idea concerning the boiling of water in the circular tubes surrounding the burn chamber: delete them. If the top of the furnace is cool enough to touch, and the bottom is so hot that it is burning paint, then let some heat go to the top! After all, it is free oil.

A bunch of lady bugs like that is called a loveliness of lady bugs. Info courtesy of my amazing wife. Lol.

This is technically a great setup, but not a real contribution in terms of global warming I suppose. Does this system lose a lot of heat through the outside pipes running from the shanty to the house?

How much did it cost for the burner and all the copper if new

Yeah your painting phone number is disconnected.

more water through the system. more flow

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Hi