Awesome! Thank you!

I've got a 16 Road Glide Ultra with the 103 HO. It had 84,000 and some change miles on it when I bought it in September, and I've put about 3,000 on it so far. It came with a stack of maintenance records, and all it has had engine related other than oil changes was a few seals here and there. It runs like a new engine, still has plenty of power and is quite. As long as you keep up on the maintenance and don't thrash the hell out of it they'll run a long time.

I'm working on editing it now. Thanks for the support

I've never used it. The threebond 1211 has never failed me. Ill get a tube of 515 and check it out.

Be careful applying any goop. What squeezes out is also squeezing in. Those products are most likely harmful to your oil. I am a big fan of paste sealers, but after ten years in the field selling lubricants and consulting on used oil analysis, I have seen the oil sample reports.

@@markobrien678-That’s why 3 Bond is the best. If it gets squeezed into the engine it simply disintegrates.

That sounds like a great idea. I will try that

There is plenty of information on you tube. Get a service manual. You can do it!

Thanks for the support. This motor was a rebuild after a lifter failure. Timkin bearings, especially on a Twin Cam, are always the best choice. The budget for this build did not allow it though..

Novice here , you can easily see here that the HD is a Radial Engine ! Hydraulic Lifters too .

Timken

Timkin was bought out by the Chinese. Just so you know.😢

Got that brand new crank. Press fit or welded? And the gear drive question just begs to asked?

Thanks. I’ve had a lot of luck lately using the oil can

That cam is the tw-999-6a

Yes I would. I do it all the time on Milwaukee 8 motors

This case was not converted to a timkin bearing

Screaming eagle parts are really good. I would press for a full compliment inner cam bearing. And make sure the runout of the new crank is very low, close to 0.001 or less”. Harley spec is crazy high like 0.012” Everything else from Harley should be pretty reliable.

@@empcycleworks I appreciate your time and advice ,brother! You do have a passion for it! I never had such interest in watching a motor get put together until I saw you doing your thing.

The crank pin is plugged in the s&s for more strength. Stock cranks have a cap on the pin. Depends on a lot of factors for longevity. How you ride and power lever are major factors. Driving in to low an rpm. It’s really not that bad to remove the engine

This engine did not get a timkin upgrade due to budget reasons.

Thanks. But I have seen both s&s and feuling parts fail.

Budget is why we kept the stock cam plate. With the fueling oil pump and lifters, the oiling system is adequate. Anytime you are in the cam chest I recommend checking the pinion runout. It is critical for oil pump operation.

New s&s crank had 0.001” runout at the pinion. The oil pump was centered.

You can get it out through the front with the engine out. I don’t remember why I had the rear wheel off

@@empcycleworks ok thank you for the info!! Had a crank bearing eat itself so I'm going to pull mine to be sure and clean it all out good.

I think you are looking at the rubber protector on the end of the pinion shaft. It was not on there centered and moves were wildly when it is spun. The crank had about 0.001” installed runout at the pinion

@@empcycleworks I knew I was seeing things, who builds an engine with that kind of run out. Keep up the great work and pay no attention to the peanut gallery .

Not for a specific piston weight

TY@@empcycleworks

Yes it is

Depending on the parts 5 to 7 k

Budgets don’t always allow for that. Plus I don’t think it is necessary

@empcycleworks if you don't mind getting in the bottom every time you do the top end probably not. i like to do about two to one. I think thats why i had a half a million miles on my shovelhead.

maybe it’s newer style that was improved

Budget. Also, at this power lever I think the stock cam plate is fine.

I didn't, by any chance, see crankshaft runout at 9:50 as it was spinning in the cam plate?

Depends on a few factors. Year and model of the bike to start with

This one was about 6500 Tuned

Not in this engine. I rebuilt the engine as close to it was as possible.

103 is a great motor, so ask why bother rebuilding a 59 panhead or a knuckle? Dumb question right?

@@user-zg2hh9bo3w no.

Thank you

Baisley pop off valve and zippers pop off valve spring. Crank runout should not exceed 0.003 if it does then the pile of problems just got higher. I do recommend Atlas cranks and TC 88 engines from 99-02.They were designed with higher tolerances since HD wanted the TC to have gear drive cams. EPA shit on that and so Harley shoved a chain in there that could handle a sloppy crank. So they stopped shimming the cranks. I was 23 when I bought my Dyna in 1999. It is badged as a 2000 so I have the better brakes. Edelbrock heads Jims roller rocker and roller lifters Jims titanium pushrods S&S 625 gear drive cams 95" jugs cut 0.010 J&E 10.5 to 1 forgered pistons Mikuni HSR 45 Forcewinder intake Thunderheader SE brain rev limited to 6200 Fueling pump and plate Zippers spring Baisley valve All Balz primary bearing Mobil 1 20W50 V-twin oil Royal purple transmission gear oil ATF in the primary Avon venom tires Light to light I blow the fairings off liter bikes. Top speed unknown after 120 my needle floats back and forth. Sure is fun to ride.

Timkin upgrade was not in the budget for this build. There are plenty of 100k mile twin cams in the road with the stock roller bearing setup.

It comes down to the budget. Gear drive cams are more money.

@@empcycleworks True... But how much cost goes into having to replace crappy parts, because they ware down? And how long will you trust plastic tensioner shoes on a fast moving metal timing chain? The stock crank, is two flywheels pressed together at the bearing for the connecting rods. Because they are pressed together, they can, "and do," shift from one another. Enough shift and it creates problems for the pistons, the jugs, the connecting rod, the bearings, and for the 'runout,' of the pinion shaft, that drives the oil pump. "Dark Horse," was mentioned in this video. They also make a crankshaft that is tuned and balanced, and then it's welded, so that it can't shift side to side. I could just keep going. But my point is, HD 'stock, OEM parts,' are CRAP! One step up from OEM, is 'Screaming Eagle.' They are HD parts, but they are of somewhat better quality than OEM. I tell folks, if you're gonna spend the money to buy an HD, then spend the money to have it completely overhauled and rebuilt with aftermarket parts that are WAY better than HD will ever provide in their machines. Do that, and consider it a 'long term investment,' that will serve you for years to come, 'knowing,' you got something better than what you saw sitting in a showroom...

Depends on what you have and what you want

Thanks for the correction