Very cool video, I am sitting here in the living room with my wonderful wife of 51 years. She is asleep on the couch as the cancer that has taken over her body eats away at her organs and makes her body ever weaker. Our daughter who has moved in to help care for her has gone off to her bedroom for a nap, and watching your videos has the usual effect of relaxing me so much I too drifted off for a short time. So it is, I rewound to where I drifted off, and caught back up! Thanks so much for the videos, it takes me away from the horror's of old age and allows me a bit of freedom to relax and enjoy the old hobby that I have had to set aside so I can care for the love of my life, as she nears her end.

in a world that is upside down ..... you are a calming , joyful voice. very fun to watch.

New Anker Powerbanks now have the feature to stay awake if you doubleclick the button. Very neat for projects like this.

Clive, your comment about component heat tolerance @9:40 reminded me of building electronic projects with my dad in the late 60's. He would always put a tiny alligator clip on the transistor leads when soldering in place to act as a heat sink. Usually followed with blowing on the board. I still find myself doing this today.

Clive, After years of soldering stuff, I picked up the habit of blowing on each joint I solder to help cool it down. I must confess while watching you solder in this video I found myself blowing to help cool it down - mad or what!

I'm using two of these PIRs in my under-bed lighting project and they work very well. They work with an LDR and ESP8266, talking to Home Assistant over MQTT. There's around 6m of neopixel LED tape and I can control the colour effect, light threshold, time on, etc. Works great and stops the good lady stubbing her toes in the night.

LEDs are so much fun to play with when there's a sensor to turn them off when no one's around. I wish that everyone would forget about using the BC547 and 2N3904 for high currents. Instead used the BC337-25 or the PN2222A, which can handle a half amp. Also it's a good idea to arrange the pins in a triangle in the PCB because you may want to use a BD135 in the TO-126 package which has the collector in the center. Thanks so much for the excellent project video. LEDs are fun!

I like the idea of using something like this to illuminate drawers or cupboards when you open them.

Just made something very similar with a PIR and a Hall Effect sensor together, driving an LED strip via transistor. Nice design Clive! Take care. 👍😀

Clive, this is great - I want to build one! I really appreciate the time you take to make these tutorials and pass on your knoledge and experience so generously. All the best to you!

Ive been using a USB mini PIR with LED strips and a normal USB LED exactly for this for a while now. Got one in the living room so a light wont have to be turned on when coming into the house or going through the living room at night, and also one in the downstairs bathroom, while the upstairs bathroom is using a normal motion sensor light that i modified to use 18650's and a TP4056 instead of 4 AAA's. They definitely come in handy, especially during power outages.

What a great idea Clive, once again you made many of us chuckle with the Hot, Hot, Hot.. reminded me of the many times I have done the same when soldering.

Combine 1 light sensor, 1 Doppler sensor, a vanity mirror w/frame, a strip of RGB LEDs (for lighting the mirror), a microcontroller that has a RTC (or Raspberry Pi), a fog generator, a solid-state relay that takes 3.3/5v logic levels from your micro or SBC-of-choice and has outputs compatible with the power in your country, a speaker (or the aux input to a working, but unused stereo), and some software and you can roll your own “magic mirror on the wall”. Put the RGB LED strip in the frame of the mirror (making sure not to break the mirror), and wire to the digital output(s) of your micro. Wire the 2 sensors to digital inputs, and put the light sensor outdoors to detect when it’s nighttime. Put the Doppler sensor somewhere near (but hidden) the mirror so it picks up when someone approaches the mirror. Drill a hole at the top of the mirror frame, and rig some tubing from the fog generator to this new hole. Also hide the speaker behind the mirror, and wire it to the audio output from your SBC or micro. Finally, you’ll need power for this get-up, and plug the fog generator into the solid state relay so it comes on when the input goes logic high. Also, set the time/date on the RTC for the micro or SBC. loopTop: IF todayDate != THEN b = DigitalRead(dopplerSensorPin); IF b THEN call TurnOnLED(RGB(255, 255, 255)); ELSE call TurnOffLED(); END IF ELSE // Spooky mirror effect when dark AND person in front of mirror. b = !DigitalRead(lightSensorPin); IF b THEN // It’s dark out. b = DigitalRead(dopplerSensorPin); IF b THEN // Spooky mirror effect! call TurnOnFog(); call TurnOnLED(RGB(128, 0, 0)); // blood-red call TextToSpeech(“Who dares disturb the magic mirror!”); call Delay(5, “MINUTES”); // give time for person to flee in terror! call TurnOffFog(); call TurnOffLED(); ELSE // no one there. END IF ELSE // Not dark out b = DigitalRead(dopplerSensorPin); IF b THEN call TurnOnLED(RGB(255, 255, 255)); ELSE call TurnOffLED(); END IF END IF END IF GOTO loopTop There. This pseudo-code should set someone in the right direction, and is generic enough so you can code it in C, Python, BASIC, or whatever, upload the compiled code to the micro or SBC, and test it all out (before Halloween, of course!) 😊

11:20 the connector is called "KF2510" or specifically "KF2510-2P" for the 2-pin version.

Ah thanks for this, I've been wanting to make something just like this. Been wanting to set up a string of LEDs, but only wanted them to come on when people were there.

Really love the doppler radar motion sensors but... I used 5 of them around the house. After a few days half my face was numb, turned them off and a few weeks later the numb went away. Did this cycle a few times with same results. Somehow they react to me adversely. Incredible, given how very low RF these things put out. Now they are only Operational while im not home.

I really like this circuit - I've used it from it's first appearance I stood on one leg with a magnifying glass and shamelessly copied the layout. Over time I've condensed board and practically halved the size by mounting resistors upright etc, I replaced the 2 balast resistors with a pot so it's adjustable. I like to keep it flexible so use the molex 3 way sockets for mounting the switching Tranny (2n22222 / Mosfet and the same connector pin as BC for PIR / Radar and use whatever is appropriate for connecting power and outputs I don't use usb bricks, mostly 18650 in a holder with a charge/protect chip attached. I tend to use JST connectors a lot and and switched power supplies wherever I can. Then connect whatever connector is needed - I often use a buck converter to get the voltage I need from whatever I have available - keeps all my stuff standard and modular by my standard selection of PSUs and anything fits everything by plugging in the appropriate end - it's still clive's in spirit. I like the radar because it stands up to the elements better and you can pot it - but the PIR is more directional and selective because it doesn't see through walls. Horses for courses.

I get flashbacks to my hand full of blisters when you solder like that

I recently saw a guy using a big chunk of Blu-Tack to hold a board while soldering. Seems like a good idea!

That PIR module will run on 4 Volts as well. No need to boost to 5Volt. Now you can use a (protected) Li-Ion battery (or several in parallel). I had the same issue with powerbanks switching off all the time.

I love the fact that you talk your way through building, instant SUB for me! I love the way you explain things and looking forward to all that you do! Thank you!!! I'm working on learning electronics and this is extremely helpful. /\

I used a sound activated switch (APH-SK370) to turn on outside lights at night the unit is near my car but too far from my front door. I pondered running a speaker to the unit from the front door or even a cord with a bell so I could turn on the lights from my front door. Then today it hit me. I'll just lock my car doors from my remote which will toot the horn & light the lights. Rated for 220 VAC the APH-SK370 also works at 120VAC which I have here.

The advantage of the PIR trigger is that it can be set to only operate at night, which is a power saver if a security light is being operated. The Doppler trigger is useful for audio warnings: I linked one to a digital playback circuit to play a 10 second voice recording, warning intruders that they are on CCTV.

If you put the black connector at the back of the PCB, thus inverting the pinout direction, you can sandwich the two modules in less space. To get the connector pins soldered from the components side would need the PCB to be double sided, increasing costs but making the lot far smaller. Choices.

It's a handy circuit and been using a similar one for while now to switch the under-cupboard lights in the kitchen at night. That may sound trivial to some but for us night owls who live by the glow of a PC screen it's a lifesaver lol

My absolute favorite ham-fisted big bear on all of KZfaq. Keep up the good work!

Do I love this channel, I hope to build a CAN Bus one of these days, Sadly theres not much public information on such topic

I did try exactly that, attach some bright LED's to the radar sensor and i failed. After seeing this video i tried again and success! Thanks to Bicclive's motivational power! I did also attach the LDR (needs additional ldr resistor on backside) so it doesent work during sunlight and now plan on putting it on my TP4056 module solar 18650 cell charger.

I love the USB connector; immediately ordered a bunch of them 👍

The doppler one has a github page full of useful data. For instance - just a different resistor can change module’s sensitivity and range...

Neat! If you had a multipin connector for the module, with different polarity, you could solder the connector on the back, reverse the doppler module's orientation, and have a smaller footprint, with the module overlapping your board rather than sitting proud of it.

Perhaps it is a bit of dyslexic on my part but I always have a problem converting from the 547 to the 3904. To solve this, I found that here in the USA you can easily order the BC547 off Ebay for about the same price as the 3904, so I simply ordered in 100 bc547's since I usually try all of Big Clive's little projects that are simple enough for my poor old aching brain.

They look very handy. Will you be selling them on your site? (I'm not lucky in lotteries!)

For the radar module you can mod 3 sets of values on the plane side of the board plus add a pot to the component side to change sensitivity and timing Below is the info - its just my notes, not very well explained (sorry!) but the info is there and it does work -C-TM Regulate the repeat trigger time. The default (unpopulated) time is 2s. (10nf on main cct board) add 100nf to pad = 33 seconds A SMD capacitor to extend the repeat trigger time. Pin 3 of the IC emits a frequency (f), and the tigger time in seconds is given by (1/f) * 32678 -R-GN The default detection range is 7m, adding a 1M resistor reduces it to 5m -R-CDS the VCC is in parallel connection with CDS(RCWL-9196 pin 9) through R-CDS. Connect the LDR at the R-CDS to turn off the detecting function at night. (?? TODO: make sense of this) Also The antenna resistor (R9) its resistance 220 Ohm, See kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j7J9n7WZ3c24h4U.html You should use trimmer resistor with variable resistance from 0 to 200 Ohm for your experiments. There is a relation between this resistance and sensor range. Less the resistance less sensitive is the sensor. So my guess will be that resistance should be something about 80 Ohm according to this guy experiments #22 (comment)

The kangaroos would spend half the night playing games if I had one of these in the yard. They're already quite fond of the solar sensor lights by the doors

This is an excellent coincidence. It's exactly what I'm looking for at the moment

Nice design

Worth mentioning some small PIR modules are open collector output and some are TTL output.

I work for my local municipality and we replaced one of those radar units that detects bicycle and pedestrian traffic at the crosswalks. I wanted to send you the old but still working unit but wasn't able to find an address to send it to.

DELTACO PB-1066 20000mAh stays on with arduino. It's super effective

Those PIR are handy. I was thinking of a project including glow in the dark walking path and some UV emitting diode.

I agree about the heat. When I was young, the books I was reading that were teaching me soldering said to clip a small heatsink onto semiconductor leads so as to minimize the chance of damage. That's why when I see vids today of no clips, I think, did I waste all that time years ago putting on clips when I had nothing to worry about?

Those would be perfect to install on tool bins on my work truck. When I opened the door they would turn on and when I walked by them the same thing. Omg I 6 of these and figure out how to make them operate off 12 volt+ vehicle power. This are genius.

I've lurked long enough. "I SHALL" subscribe.👍

Great design 👍 Thanks for sharing 👍😀

I studied electronics at college. I'd love to do something like this.

Nice project :) I wish sensor modules came with instructions on how to DIY use them. I always have to do google searched to see what other people came up with.

Radar modules have pads for ceramic capacitor for time delay.

PIR modules ordered!

You can extend the on-time of the RCWL-0516 radar module by soldering a capacitor to the PCB. There is a space called C-TM. I tried 100nF because i had it lying around and it got me to around 42s which is just perfect for my kitchen lighting, which i constantly forgot to turn off. Larger values mean more time. If you retrigger it, the interval is reset without turning off. It also has CDS and RCDS which are in parallel and can be fitted with a CdS LDR to make it stay off when it's bright enough. There is more info about it: github.com/jdesbonnet/RCWL-0516

Maybe that one is more sensitive, but in my experience those "doppler" motion detectors can't really see through (brick / concrete) walls, or even thick-ish safety glass (ex., shop windows). They work fine through wooden tables, doors, and probably also plasterboard walls, but stone / glass / ceramic thicker than a centimetre or two seems to block their view, or at least greatly reduce their range.

Jlcpcb is just an amazing place to get custom pcbs

We've done this before Clive. If the microwave uses a repurposed PIR IC it's unlikely to be Doppler as that would have to involve some kind of pulse counting over time.

clive! you release this, its 20 minutes long,and you have a stream in 19 minutes! agh

I agree Clive the name brand power banks always timeout i have a few anker 20000 mah battery packs and they timeout and go dormant if there being used at to low of voltage which is normal very small amount less then 5 volts its very annoying @BigClivedotCom

I'll have to go back and find your video on the PIR modules. I built an arduino LED panel temperature display, but blew up the arduino plugging the external 5V into the wrong pin. I had planned on adding a PIR module and light sensor to dim the display based on ambient light level, and shut it off when there's no movement at night. It'd also be good to find out if there's any "dumb" power banks on eBay that you can just slot 18650 cells into, or if there's an easy way to modify them to detect the lower power draw of an arduino in sleep mode waiting for a trigger from the PIR module.

could you do a video on how you design pcbs? like the software you use with the basic functions, and some additional useful tips to keep in mind when designing a circuit. at the moment i use loose wires for everything i build

I made something similar some time ago, except with a relay that could switch mains voltage, also powered by USB and potted in resin in a small plastic case. The radar module I used cant be adjusted though, unfortunately.

Very simple circuit nice work Clive @BigCliveDotCom

This is the kinda thing I want to make for illuminating the cupboard under the sink, Electronics isn't my thing really but I'm always making stuff, I have an arduino electronics kit which I haven't got around to using, guess what my next project is gonna be? Cheers Clive

You can 3D print a spring vise to hold tiny board like that. Printed in 1 piece, plug and play, lol.

Blob of Blu Tack all the way Clive

I am working on building a motion trigger for a big open building we have at work that will tell me WHERE the motion is and turn a security PTZ camera to get a shot of the person and then email it to our security staffer. This is, of course, utilizing a raspberry pi for the intelligence side of it.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but you could connect the coupler connector to the underside to allow the 2 boards to stack better.

You can also splay the leads on the resistors once you insert them, or other thru-hole components for that matter, which will keep them in place while soldering. Helpful for big projects since both terminals can be soldered at the same time without having to reflow to reposition them.

I've often wondered why BC series transistors are packaged with the emitter and collector back-to-front compared to the 2N series transistors. Does this reflect the fact that you British Commonwealth types drive on the wrong side of the road?

very nice project

Those pin headers are called Dupont connectors, the more ya know. On another note, the Ni-MH cell in my solar sun jar died a while back, so instead of replacing it I'm going to change out the slow-fade RGB LED with a string of WS2812B LEDS controlled by an ATTiny85, powered using an 18650 cell (or two protected cells in parallel if there's room) connected to a solar li-ion charging/boost module (considering the size of the solar cell it'll probably only be able to trickle charge the batter(y/ies) but eh), finally I'm thinking of using a TEMT6000 for controlling the trigger threshold in software... Where was I going with this?... Oh yeah! Now I'm wondering if I should add a doppler unit... Then again I've probably already exceeded reasonable quiescent current draw with the stuff that's already going in it... I guess we'll see.

I seem to remember a New Wave band named Ambient Foliage Movement in early 70's.

I had a set of snowmen that were motion activated, probably with a PIR, they lit up and wobbled about. I put them by the path to the house and checked they worked. Fine. Our Westie went into the garden walked by them they lit up, danced and played Jingle Bells for about 3 seconds then were totally destroyed by the terrier's teeth. The moral of the story is be careful where you put anything that is motion sensitive!

i couldn't get the sensor to work very well, on bread board. it activated if i touched the sensor pcb, but intermittently otherwise. however, once i used Dupont cable to attach the sensor to the bread-board, it worked perfectly. presumably the metal in the bread-board upset it somehow. more RF voodoo, no doubt.

Idea for an LED light modification; the Poundland £2 garden stab-in-the-ground solar lights fitted with these doppler sensors, so they only come on when someone is near... :D (though how that'd work with the existing solar power setup, I haven't a clue!!!)

Good

You have to be very careful about selecting the MosFet as most have a Gate Voltage higher than than the signal from PIR, so it won't work.

Looks fun, the connector could be soldered to the back, so the boards could be not in an s shape, but in a C shape

Might try ways of integrating this into cheap digital photo frames, to mimic big frames where already fitted.

The Vce(sat) [of the BJTs] will 'subtract' from the supply voltage and can dim the LEDs

Nice little simple project, Clive. I'm a fan of JLCPBC too. Great for hobbyists like me - good quality, quick turnaround and most importantly cheap! Why don't you have them as a sponsor?

Some MosFets have a high RDS(on) which will dim the LEDs

I was thinking of using this to light the staircase at night but I dont know what the differences would be between leds in parallel and leds in series. Could you sometime show a vid of how they wojld be set up. ALXO is it possible to separate the dusk sensor from the motion sensor as sensing at the staircase is not accurate enough, and id like go put it near a window.

Another idea is to put a USB A plug on to plug directly into power banks/wall adapters.

Can I use this board to automatically fire my death beam? I don't want to waste power having it shoot all randomly when people arent around. Thanks!

Real RADAR. Interesting. Anybody know what the average operating frequency is on one of those units? Just curious. Thanx.

Can people order a copy of your design from jlpcb?

I see far IR cameras as Occupancy cameras as the future of lighting. I want a light that knows I am there even if I stop moving.

This looks great.

would love one of these

Well.. I though you'd have picked the pink cable with the pink power bank..😀

That is a very short time delay @BigCliveDotCom

3:10 is the pinout for transistors usually/always the same? Or do some of them come with c, b, e on different pins?

Thank you for the video. One question. What’s the purpose of the 1M Ohms resistor? Could have the circuit the same functionality without this resistor? Thank you very much 😃.

God I would love to make dozens of these, but maybe in conjunction with a sonos/Alexa thingy, how do us ancient 64 year old gadget crazy. people get so involved? Cheers Big Clive

Neat! I will follow up with this👍

Can you put a intermittent timer on the Doppler sensor to lower it's draw? I would love to add this to my boat. Or would it sense the water moving too?

Really enjoy these videos. Always been cruious what temperature you run your soldering iron at? It seems you always use the same tip as well.

@bigclivedotcom I am losing hope of ever seeing you build the high voltage leakage tester project I sent you last year ☹️

If I wanted to add a 6v solar panel and batteries instead of usb where would be best to connect please ?

nice

At low frequency you don't need a base-emitter resistor - unlike a MOSFET. For a true open-collector (OC) output I'd advise a flyback diode so a relay coil can be driven without dumping the stored energy into the BJT every time.

Saw a stutter in the video at 16:34 - did you record this one with the Cat phone? Nifty little circuit. Did you ever explain why you seem to prefer buying via eBay instead of via AliExpress? The selection from the latter seems much greater...