🙂👍

Well said 👍

@@Rchelicopterfunthanks! I completed my R2 in 2009 (aluminum). I’ve been tempted to print one in PETG

It used to be that way. But these new printers, like my Bambus and neptune 4 max are insane! Printing at .16 layer height with 4 walls and 15%gyroid with a .4 nozzle. Printing 3 times faster then a .6 nozzle at 2 walls 5%infil on my old printers. . Times have changed lol

🙂👍

Hi Rob - Cool, a fellow BC'er R2 builder - nice 👍 🙂. More in the series on the way, but it's slow going. I was stupid & foolish enough to think I would be finished this thing and the last video in the series would be ready for May-4th. The question I now have 4 months in, is May 4th of what year. The dome build certainly gave me a false sense of time scale. The body, legs, and feet are kicking my butt. No complaints - it's been a fun project other than all the bloody sanding 😉

Glad you enjoy it

Have fun!

Many thanks 🙂

@John Salt My pleasure always, John!

@Mrt - Thanks for the feedback. Glad you are enjoying the series and even better you'll be taking on a rewarding R2 build yourself. As I mentioned, I'll be covering my electronic components and the basics of how it works in another video, but won't be venturing down the deep rabbit hole of beginners or droid electronics. I'm simply not qualified since this is my very first droid build as well, not to mention it's a huge & endless topic with many paths to follow. There is already so much information available after all depending on what specific electronic info you are interested in. You've likely already seen these two droid electronic publications if you are an Astromech member, but thought I would mention them again as they are the two best beginner guides I've found to date. Both are by Rob Howdle (R2 Builders club of UK). Just search for them with Rob's name in the forums or a Google search and both PDF's come up (free to download). 1. The World of Electronics - A New Builder Guide by Rob Howdle 2. Droid Control Systems - A Beginners Guide by Rob Howdle My R2 electronic pairings are HEAVILY influenced by the information contained in both his guides. Both top notch & easy to understand resources if you haven't got them yet. Have fun with your build 🙂

I’m thinking about buying a p1p for this project, is the 256mm^3 build volume enough for printing all these pieces? He mentioned the files saying it needs a 300x300 build volume

I've had absolutely no problems fitting any of the pieces. You can find files that are pre-cut for smaller printers. Also the quality of the parts are amazing on the P1P. Especially when using PETG which I used for all the structural parts. And the speed is so much faster.

Thanks for the response@@asennad! I'm pretty sold on getting a P1P and starting this project in the next few weeks. Is there a specific brand PETG you recommend?

@Mickael Jansson - After it's all together to confirm proper function, I will taking it all apart for priming & painting (body & legs). I won't be putting any of the body or arm greebles on of course during this process as they are only for eye candy and will all be fit (they either bolt on or are held on magnetically) after all the body & arm painting is done and fully cured. At least that's the plan...🙂 I had pretty good success heating the arm pins just so they become a little pliable to allow slight bending alignment as the utility arms are tweaked into a centering position within the arm recess before the pins cooled. Both are still able to be pulled out afterward as the pin bending is very slight. 1/32" movement out at the tip of the arm to center it in the opening would account for perhaps a couple/few thousandths of an inch of pin reshape alignment.

@MetalNerd - thanks for the comments & sub. Sounds like you have the Astromech building bug big time - awesome 👍Yes, the plate was printed in a somewhat compromised orientation. Unfortunately and as I explained in the video, that was the only way I could fit it on my printer with a bed size of 280x240. I also didn't want to split it. Thanks for the heads up on the potential face plant. Perhaps I'll put in an aluminum cross brace instead of the plastic one that is in there now, or laminate the plate it with a few layers of carbon. Cheers.

Considering it turned out better than I could have hoped and is working a treat; I would build another one exactly the same way. 100% 3D printed. Why mess with what works 🙂

Hi Michael - Wow, coming from the Jedi Master himself, that means a lot mate! Just wanted to thank you again for all you do for the Droid building community. Your tireless work & time designing all these amazing prints for us to use has made many a childhood dream come true. Sincere appreciation! 👍👍🙂

@@Rchelicopterfun if you’re up for it, let’s do a recorded chat at the end of the series, love to talk through your experience and answer any questions you have.

Sounds good Michael - We might want to wait & see the finished build however. Johnny FUBAR still has many opportunities to turn this project into a train wreck 😄 Feel free to contact me on my website if/when you wish to discuss chat details: www.rchelicopterfun.com/contact.html Cheers - john

Modded it slightly in Tinkercad from the one in the Baddely files.

Ah, awesome yeah I ended up bringing it into fusion 360 and just making it blank, going to start adding my own stuff as I plan what I'm going to be showing on my panel. Thanks!

That's because it's servo wheel/arm dependent what mounting method you use (as per the Baddeley instructions). The specific Futaba servo wheels I used glue excellent with CA as do the PLA+ gears so I glued my servo wheels into to the gears.

@@Rchelicopterfun I tried to go the glue route but it failed, so I just imported the gear I was using into tinkercad and added my own hub. Also made it a bit taller so it engages the utility arms a tad better. Thank you sir, for your brilliant build guides!

Link is to both 12 and 24 volt options. Mine is 24v as stated.

Sonic Blue Pearl. Exact application method, number of coats, base coat color & top coat are covered in the dome painting video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n9SfpKhinrWohYU.html

With the hundreds of printed parts on this project and that being over two years ago now, I honestly have no idea. I can barely remember what I did last week 🙃 As with a good number of the 3D files I was unsure about, I opened them in my slicer or in Tinkercad to examine them before printing to see if they were the right ones/size. That worked for me fairly well when in doubt.

Arms are sized for 606. 2RS or unsealed - your choice.

@Zombiehunter115. I'll be using the 3D printed gear drives with the common E100 scooter motors (24V) - we will see if they hold up or not. The more I 3D print, the more I appreciate just how strong these parts are. Likely going with casters however over omni wheels as I hope to drive mine on rough pavement which would chew up an Omni - still deciding however - always easy to change or upgrade which is a never ending process by the sounds of it. 🙃 As for other electronic info. Have you downloaded Rob Howdle's two electronic droid guides? 1. The World of Electronics - A New Builder Guide by Rob Howdle 2. Droid Control Systems - A Beginners Guide by Rob Howdle My R2 electronic pairings are HEAVILY influenced by the information contained in both his guides. Both top notch & easy to understand resources if you haven't got them yet.

@@Rchelicopterfun cheers yeah I’ve found the padwan 360 system when I was looking and have nearly all the parts for that, it’s just the servos I’m not sure on how they go together.

I honestly don't remember what they were called? I just looked for the MKiii body cut version in file folder.

All files are accessible through Michael Baddely's patron page. www.patreon.com/mrbaddeley It's all laid out logically once you gain access to them by folder, sub folders, and sub-sub folders. Yes, there are LOTS of files and it does take time to find them and cross them off the printed droid list as you print each one; it's exactly why I like that printed droid guide so much that I mention in the very first video of this series. Even then it takes time and digging, but easy and fast compared to what is required if we had to CAD them ourselves 🙂

Your Call - I used blue loctite on all my fasteners. I followed Michael's instructions pretty much to the letter.

Link is in description

PLA+ for everything (other than TPU for the tires).

You need to use 180 degree sweep servos, not 90 degree sweep (what most are) as stated in the video @ time index 11:26

Hmm, I just searched on Amazon for "37mm 24V 300 RPM Gear Motor" and a couple came up; but I know search results will vary depending on location. Should be able to source a 300 RPM (if that's what you want) however, as they are common at robot shops and lots show up on eBay too. Anyway, presuming for whatever reason, you are stuck with either 200 or 500, it comes down to how fast you want the dome to spin. The ring gear to pinion gear ratio is 8.2:1. So a 200RPM motor will turn the dome about 24 times per minute max. The 300 I'm using produces about 36 turns per minute. A 500RPM motor would spin that sucker around 60 turns per minute (once per second). That seems too fast IMO, but of course you wouldn't have to drive it at full power. Happy Building 🙂

There are of course the servo size recommendations in the Baddeley manuals, but as every build is unique, servo choice & type is up to the builder; in short research is required.

PLA+. I cover resources & materials in the 1st video of the series: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ntGbhsSYudmwiI0.html

Sorry, no idea what size the Ender's built plate is or gantry height. I mentioned in the video, the build plate on the SV01 is 280x240 with a 300mm max gantry height so if you have an Ender 3, you'll know if it's the same size. 🙂

Only scale the gears (ring & pinion)

Awesome thank you!

Nope. No reaction whatsoever with PLA+ (applied over primer of course so the sonic blue never actually makes contact with the PLA+). But even on test parts with direct exposure, no problems.

Leon

The back panel is a single separate printed part, so to make it removable, I simply didn't glue it in place.

I have links to all the print resources in the first "Getting Started" video in the series: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ntGbhsSYudmwiI0.html

Very few. Recommended print orientation all all parts is thoroughly covered in the printed droid guide that I reference and link to in the introduction video and is also covered in all of Mr. Baddeley's instructions for each section of the build.

Stated within the first minute of the video 0:46.

Well you can pretty much wire them anyway you want - there is no diagram since it's totally up to the individual what wire colors they assign to any particular power or signal input/output. Each wire as you know is a different color so make up your schematic for what each wire color does and follow that schematic it on both sides of the slip ring. For example, if you want the red wire in the slip ring to be your main +VDC power wire, then you would make sure you feed you +VDC into red on the one end of the slip ring, and then pull the +VDC power out of the red on the other that rotates.

Thanks John again for responding. I understand that each colour of wire corresponds to each other ie red short to red long etc . Using the DuPont connectors what do you plug it in to and what does the short plug in to., as I said I am building my electrics the same as your build, i found it cheaper and easy to get the components. I’m in my 70s now and I am really enjoying building R2. Thanks again John

@FIERCE WOLF There is an MK3 Cut version body file for smaller printers - it's what I used. Without knowing what type of plastic you are using in your build, I'm totally in dark. With that said, epoxy doesn't bond well to most plastics (PLA, PETG, or ABS) unless you take the time to aggressively scarify the mating surfaces and even then, unless the surface area is large (like the ankle to leg bonding), I found it's not nearly as strong as good quality CA on PLA. Won't hurt to scarify mating surfaces when using CA either of course and I made sure to do that for every part I glued while I was sanding them. CA won't bond well to PETG regardless of surface prep. If printing with ABS, use solvent based adhesive for best results. In short, experiment with scrap prints to come to your own conclusions of best bonding methods for your particular plastic and don't listen to "everyone". Nuts - amzn.to/3xLlFC7 (need more than 100 so get two packs or at least 150).

@@Rchelicopterfun thank you soo much for responding your feedback is greatly appreciated. The plastic i am using is PLA +/Max by CC3D ( i was very impressed by the strength of this filament) I would prefer to use the ca glue but I wanted opinions before i made a mistake in the middle of the build. thank you for the link to square nuts BTW.

@@Rchelicopterfun did you ever go over how you attached the dome or maybe i missed it you mentioned rare earth magnets?

Covered at the beginning of part 9: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e56YY89l167ac2g.html

@Robert Wioch - Thanks mate 👍

Just the touch and silent board (think those come standard on the SV01 now?)

@@Rchelicopterfun yeah the SV01 pro has those standard. I’m thinking about the new SV06 plus. Bigger build plate size and it comes with a lot of upgrades

Hi James - I ordered 450mm, which some sellers reference as 18", but susan sizes regardless of what they are sold as will vary a bit. I cover this with susan sizing in part 1: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fseKaqRz0M7bnmw.html

Not sure what you're asking? If you're wondering what print file versions to choose from (200 small cut, vs. normal, vs. 500x500 large cut), I think most would recommend choosing the appropriate size files for your print bed.

@@Rchelicopterfun i saw ur body was in alot of pieces. i have a large machine. do u think it would be better to print the body in one piece

@paul viana - Yes, I would think you should print in as few pieces as your printer size allows.

Considering the hundreds of hours it takes to build one of these, it would be less expensive to purchase the $25K Galaxy's Edge R2. But if some one wants to pay me $30K for my labor and another 3K or so for materials; I'll give up what little free time I have for the next 6-8 months and get right into it. 😄

The Astromech forums will answer all questions like this as I mentioned in the first video of this series. There are many build options & materials other than 3D printed.

Specify... Ski, VR, Welding, FPV, Other...

@@Rchelicopterfun I’m just being a smart arse and at the same time worrying about you getting that dust in your eyes.. pla in the eye is no joke man!

@Harry Bomes - I see... literally. As is always the case, it's a risk/benefit call. Guess you've never had the pleasure of attempting to wear safety glasses/goggles during a cold Canadian winter day with a dust mask on as well. Two breaths and you can't see bugger all because the googles or glasses fog up instantaneously. As I was sanding all the body filler during that shot sequence and I actually wanted to see what I was doing, the mask won out. 🙂

@@Rchelicopterfun Ah good point.. I have a similar problem but it’s heat causing the steam. Anyway, loving this series- I’m stealing a whole heap of your ideas!