Great videos! Thanks

Never in my 50 years have I seen anyone lay plastic under a footing to prevent wicking. But it's a damn good idea man! Does several jobs at once. Wicking prevention, concrete release agent, and keep the forms clean!

At last finally found a video explaining this. Thank you.

Hi Ron, looking forward to this camp build. Been a long winter without concrete!

Great work, fun with family

2 big fat thumbs up👍👍. You guys make this look easy. Good job!

Good stuff !!

Awesome video !

That’s hard work!!!

Nice work to see thank you for the video and thumbs UP. :)

Nice to see how you guys get it done and what you have to deal with , here in so Cali we are all about earthquakes which we hardly ever have , so lots of money down the drain for homewoner, a bunch of steel that is overkill and a ton of useless inspections, meanwhile you go to a home 100 yrs old on a 4 inch slab , no reinforcement no fancy brackets or hold downs, steel , just bedrock and the home is in prestine condition

Great to see that you are starting a new project 👍🏻👍🏻 I still have two feet of snow on my property or I would be starting my build

great video!

We have those trucks all over Washington DC, but never seen one with a pressure washer built in. They are handy trucks for certain jobs!

Sweet job guys

I like that you don’t have to order extra concrete with that truck. Nice job as always

These thumbnails get me every time !

I'll put Bondo inspired in the footer when I pour mine lol.

Volumetric truck nice

thank you for showing us what you do. we are in Michigan and have to gut our basement and trying to tigure out if we can do it ourselves

Great content brother, concrete is one thing we haven’t got into , always sub it out but recently having trouble getting them in timely manner

Damn brother, I have learned so much watching this channel. Gotta say, I'm so glad I stumbled across it just for knowledge to do my own cabin build. Happy to be subscribed my man.. Gawd Id sure like to see how much Big Biscuit can eat at a buffet.. All the best to you boys n girl from BC Canada ✌️👍

Love the plastic around footer. Should be code everywhere

Rocky land 😮

Meany used to have one of those trucks that mix in the shoot. The concrete never amounted to much but he probably used silty gravel.

That truck is a neat trick if your site is a distance from the concrete supplier! No more concrete that's beenm churning in the truck for half an hour before it reaches the front gate! Probably easier to deal with if someone orders too much, too. You only mix what you need.

Mixing trucks can be good but operator is everything to get a decent mix

"Just put the rod in the hole"....LMAO. She's got a sense of humour.

Them concrete trucks are really popular here in the UK we call them volumetric concrete trucks. They are good because you only pay for what you used & no wastage.

Used these dry concrete trucks in gunite pool building alot.

Hey Bondo Well that's how I used to do them now I build forms our of foam to create a fully insulated footing and foundation. Current house I'm building is over 1 million lbs. Sitting on 12 inches of foam and 12 inches under basement slab unfortunately changed plans midway and only have 6 inches under garage slab. 2.5 lb geofoam under footings and 1 lb under slabs. Only really needed 2 lb under footing but leave it to engineers to over do things and cost you extra money. Only plus to 2.5 lb foam is temp screws hold better but it's totally unnecessary. BTW foam is eps with r value of about 4 per inch. Yup about r 50 under the house. If y'all think that's overkill it's all radiant heated floors so the delta t is about 45 to 55 f depending on weather. We also run cold water through the floors starting late spring and through the summer. We can get the cold water from a ground loop outside or from the air to water heat pump.

I like the idea of paying for only what u use, never being short 2 wheelbarrows would be great.

Nice job! 👍 Not a critique but a question from a layman, is why not dig the footers into the earth as opposed to forming them on top. I can see how this would work much better with the mud situation and any water build up.

Another good one Bondo. Did you use the portable mixer, so you only have to pay for what you use? As opposed to estimating. I thought the mixer in the excavator bucket was going to be a slow process, but worked really well. You don’t need Uncle Jim if you have Big Papa!

Can’t imagine this method of concrete mixture is worth the trouble. I’ve hauled concrete for 9 years. Mixes should have a minimum revolutions which doesn’t appear to be the case here. Based on this job site a traditional concrete truck should be more than capable to tailgate this.

Good job. Watched a concrete crew put a small channel down the center of the footer all the way around to help the rebar in keeping the wall from ever moving side to side They also dug out small pockets in the soil under the footer to prevent the footer from ever sliding in any direction. Flat bottom footers could slide very easily on top of gravel. Pushing the rebar through the footer into the dirt will allow the rebar to get wet and rust. When rebar rusts it expands with extreme force and breaks the concrete around it. Why put plastic when you puncture it with rebar.Maybe an L shaped rebar placed vertically would be better. Not slamming you just trying to help.

Hi Ron, do you ever put drainage lines through the footers to allow any water under the slab to drain out to the French drain on the exterior of the footing? I’ve seen recommendations of embedding a 4” pipe segment through every 10’ of the footer. Maybe would require extra reinforcement? Thanks!

When we do our footings , we have a 90 degree angle tail that goes in the footing to lock the rebar in

I thought this video was about hooters...nope footers😁

I would use rebar caps for safety.

Working in the rain and mud sucks huge ass. Hot and dry is better but not by much. :)

Good thing you don't have any little people on your crew. Every is Bondo Big.

Taking a shot every time he says “big biscuit” will update after unless I forget.

Great video. Do you cut the Poly back or just leave it?

Hey Ron how much more cost per yard is with this truck from ready mix? nice work ! Holler out to the big Biscuit !

Site mix seems good to dial in your slump, right? I didn't see you test it or mention what you got.

I have a question. When pouring a monolithic wall foundation how do you get the spreaders out?or do you just leave them there.

You guys don't have many stone slingers up there do you? I worked in western NY (Dunkirk) for a couple of years and we would haul gravel in the mixer with the conveyor on it to stone the drains around foundations and sometimes the floors.

Out of curiosity what is the height, and spacing of your dowels? Great videos! Love the content.

Site mix is only as good as the guy operating it , It has been my experience that it's great for footings , piers , setting posts or anything you don't need a good finish on . The local guy where I live has a whole fleet of these trucks and only one or two decent operators . It can be a real pain in the arse when pouring for ICF walls . I've built a few Nudura houses . Getting the proper mix for ICF is most important , So far I'm not impressed with this guy but the boss won't switch suppliers because the guy he uses has a pump and he's related to him , sooner of later they are going to have a major form blowout . I'd stick to plant batched stuff for finished work or ICF's .

That’s how we do it in Michigan. So the aggregate remains dry in that truck and only batch out what’s needed? Have not seen that style of truck yet

Question... wouldn’t punching the rebar like that compromise the poly and now be prone to rusting out?

I must have missed it but is the infloor heating going to be the space in that crawl space? Will you be putting foam on that ground first? I have spray foamed one 2 inch pass on gravel prior to a concrete poor for basements. Would definitely make the in floor heating more efficient.

Where did you get the name big biscuit from? Around here everyone has nicknames as well.

Bondo you sure she didn't hammer those rebar into the ground that a no no

Just curious if the owner of that new mix truck won't allow it to move around a jobsite? A regular truck could have moved around the site eliminating the need for the excavator to place the mix. Unless of course those rocks from hell were in the way.

Ron, why the poly? Just easier to pull forms later? And, you're placing the radiant in the concrete which will be a crawl space? No heating the floor? Do you plan to use spray foam under the concrete? Kranz road?

I'm wondering why you tied the horizontal rebar off the ground yet hammered the uprights into the ground?

Hey bondo

Are inspectors pretty quick to keep your work rolling?

Bondo, what area of upstate NY are you working? Nice job, thanks

I've asked you this question before. Do you need to do this for a pole barn if it's slab-on-grade also? My dad lives in Northern Vermont and the guy put a foundation around his garage and then poured the cement inside. I'm thinking if you don't do that you'll crack the cement for a pole barn. Thanks for the awesome video . I'm thinking where I want the pole barn then might be ledge

How far down did you excavate to then set the footers?

Hey Bondo I'm trying to learn and I'm trying to learn right but no matter what I do I can't make the dots connect on this so I have to ask it directly. May be silly but sometimes we all have a question. So I'm wondering this - say we take an example of a frost line depth of 24" and code requires 12" below frost line. This makes a combined 36" obviously. Now when you dig down 36" to pour the footing - say your footing is 18" wide. Do you have to pour 18" wide all the way to the surface? For a dimension of 18"x36"x feet in length. Or can you pour a 12"x8"-12"x feet in length footing and then build a block wall 2'8" and fill around the block wall back in, then build on that. I guess what I'm getting at is depth of the pour required (not how deep you need to dig, how thick is the pour requirement) when there is a frost line. I ask because if it is required to pour from frost line to grade 36"-48" or even more, that seems like an excessive amount of concrete just to build a house on. It's codified as well so even for small things that would never need such support it will be required. Please tell me you can pour thinner and build blocks on it haha.

Will that be enough to heat the living space completely

Does all water and soft ground effects the concrete S in settling

lot of segragation in those type trucks , might loose volume at the end gain in begining or oppisite i forget lol, used to pull gradations on those all failed, good news does not mater ahahah just number s get it done ahahha

Wait 2 in the middle of a poore when the computer board strews up on the concrete truck A buddy of mine run 1 of those trucks

At about 7:45 you say the poly is going in as a thermal break! Maybe you misspoke.... Because poly is not a thermal break of any kind! Maybe a vapor barrier but not a thermal break😲

Learned so much from this video. Can a shallow frost monolithic slab work well in RI for a 32x32 two story garage build? Thanks

Wouldn't that plastic trap as much moisture against the footer as it keeps out?

Is this style of concrete truck ideal for remote work?

What are all the coloured liquids on the side of the truck for? I am guessing, retarders, accelerators, and super plasticizers, I have never seen them and don't know what they actually look like so just a wild guess.

No hooks on your verticals?

I didn't know can flip buckets

Anybody else questioning the math? Was it four inches to the wall or 4.5? Does half of 11 equal 5.5 ? Are the inside dimensions now off by a half inch on each wall ?

Shouldn't dowels have a 90 degree bend and tied to the footing steel and not just pounded in

Where'd you find a woman that can tie rebar??

I do shotcrete with those trucks 5days a week

Hi Bondo, is Jess your sister? ... I want to marry her, such a pretty and hardworking woman! 👀😊😉👍

Sorry, I'm not sure you know what a frost-protected shallow foundation means, where is your foam layer?

Would it be ok to do this footer in sections? Say you just wanted to do 12 feet at a time because you're hand mixing and want to tackle it over multiple days or even weeks, can you have each new pour butt up to the previous one?

say Hy to Sean Butler for me next time you see him

What is wrong with your lens?

Maybe he can't hear to well?

Orange safety caps need to be on rebar please for everyone’s safety. Great content

What's the "we" shit? 😜

Where is the inspection? You can’t stab your rebar into the ground! That’s why inspectors make you tie your vertical bar up before you pour your mud so you don’t do exactly what you are doing!

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So basic it's frustrating to watch. 1. Talked about excavating further out from the footer framing: Why? 2. Talked about putting down insulation to prevent frost. Never showed it being installed. 3. Never explained how to set/adjust height of footer framing. 4. Showed, but never explained the necessity of using the gravel compactor for the footing gravel. 5. Talked "dropping in" the rebar! Otherwise, if time permits they would be hung. So, what's the difference? 6. How far apart/how high are the vertical rebar pieces placed in the newly poured footer? etc., etc. Too many references to Big Biscuit, Big Papa, et; al. Enough, already!