why not a ber- hetzer coz most people and companies don't specify what it is

Thanks for that Haramasch. It explaines why the tracked motorcycle is a Kettenkraftrad. The Luftwaffe had units called Aufklarungsgruppen, or Reconnaissance groups (or squadrons). The vehicle is based on the Czech 38t chassis without which the Nasties would have been far less well equipped. Chamberlain, you idiot !

Haramasch Oh thanks for that. I know that pzkpfw is armored battle vehicle but i wondered what this mean. Can you please tell me what is Sonderkraftfahrzeug?

Sonderkraftfahrzeug was established in the early years of arms production in the Third Reich to evade the Versailles Treaty. It is a code name and means "Special (purpose) motor vehicle".

Sonder = special, Kraft = strong, fahr = to ride, zeug in this case means vehicle just as flugzeug means a flying vehicle or aeroplane. A Special Purpose Armoured Vehicle would be my translation, though there may be a more specific one out there.

Thank you too

Barry Allen would be easy enough

Shaw Rosowitsch exactly

Barry Allen although it would probably be low Tier because of the short 75

Shaw Rosowitsch probably tier 3

Bunny Hop837 it would sit gold at a BR of3.3-3.7

Wayne! Nice to see you here mate!

Hey mate....i like this blokes work. He has some very nice builds. And i am a bit of an addict for model vids....lol

Whistle Music I think he showed how to in his academy m3 Lee video.

Thanks

Tamiya's Panther Dis simple and looks great when done.

Yes, as a kit just do something from Tamiya :) get some nice metal files (or sanding sticks but files are more crisp - watch Hamilkar Barkas' great video if you want to see) a hobby knife, some glue (Tamiya Extra Thin is great for most people) and some sprue cutters. Good fine wire cutters work if you can't get proper sprue cutters. Painting and weathering is a while other thing though... I can go into more detail for you there if you'd like.

Panzermeister36 Thanks for the tips, id love to hear more about painting and weathering as well if that isnt too much trouble for you.

Well I'm an airbrushing kind of guy, but you can always get away with spray cans for most tanks as they were often green, grey, and a dark yellow ochre. Tamiya spray cans are great. If you've gotta do camouflage you can always mask with tape and then do some more spray cans or you can paint by hand with a brush. But an airbrush sure helps as you can see here. Now as for weathering that can get expensive and tricky and very time consuming with lots of products involved, some of which aren't really necessary. To start, some oil paints work well for pinwashes and streaking and stuff, or you can use enamel products from Tamiya, AK Interactive, Mig, Wilder, and so on. Those would be things like the panel liner and streaking grimes and premade washes. I lean more towards oils for this stuff now. For mud you can use pigments which I really like, but dirt and stuff like that can work well too. There's plenty of great KZfaq videos about these kinds of things out there, and what I'm saying here is just general stuff without much detail or background. If you have any questions feel free to ask again, the modelling community on KZfaq is pretty great!

That kit is flawed and someone needs to come out with a modern tooling. The kit is actually missing a lot of the gun compartment detail even though Tamiya put alignment marks on the sidewalls for that missing detail. WTF?!

yeah i noticed that when i built it and i was going to find some aftermarket to fix it but i could not find any.

Actually, both Eduard and Royal Model make PE and resin sets that address some of the issues but I don't know what is still missing. They are a bit pricy, as well. The Royal set runs about $55 bucks! I myself just cobbled some parts together to fake an approximation of the interior. Still would like a new one though. There are enough people making Pz II kits that someone other than Tamiya or those Eastern European companies like Alan or Maquette, as those aren't much better.

im probably now gonna redo the kit and scratch build the interior.

@@mladtheimpaler The newer Dragon kit is pretty nice, if you catch it on sale it's not expensive either.

Price is going to be relative. As a store owner, he's going to give you the suggested retail, but there will be online vendors that will charge more or less. That said, the standard price for Dragon these days is roughly $65-$75 U.S., but I haven't paid much beyond half that for a couple of years.

The Dutchinator I would say just experiment with different techniques and find something

Tamiya. Tamiya is pretty much the one everybody starts with. Although I started with Bandai in the 70's.

I would recommend Tamiya, simple to work on, goes together quite well, and the instructions are clear

That's "V-O-L-L-ketten, not V-O-L-K. Only one K to work through.

Vollketten: Voll + Ketten = Fully Tracked

I will for that one i just used a round piece of sprue

yes it is

Lyle Christensen one vehicle was built. More of the anti aircraft versions were built than any of the other Hetzer variants.

You're thinking of the Flakpanzer 38(t) auf Selbstfahrlafette 38(t) Ausf M - which was a variant of the Pz.Kpfw 38(t), not the Jagdpanzer 38(t). The Jgpz 38(t) was a NEW design based on components of the Pz.Kpfw 38(t). The chassis is wider than that of the original Czech design. The Bergepanzer variant was the ONLY one built in sufficient numbers (106, plus 64 conversions from existing Hetzers). Other than the command version, and handful of conversions to Flammpanzers, and the few carrying the 15cm sIG 33/2, everything else never made it past paper or prototype stage. The vehicle depicted in this kit never made it past a pair of prototypes built by BMM, but they were both open-top vehicles meant as personnel carriers and were only armed with MGs and was designated as the Vollkettenaufklärer 38(t) Katschen. I think what they meant to portray was the Jagdpanzer 38(d) with the 7.5cm PaK 39 L/48 which was to replace the Hetzer, but the war ended before production was scheduled to start.

Shell Bush there was a hetzer with a 2cm cannon on.

X_BriX & ZoneXPL Play Games the overall paint job would end up being too thick and detail would be lost. Treat yourself to a budget airbrush.

He has a frequently asked questions video where he lists his airbrush and psi. IIRC it is an iwata and he runs it at 22 psi.

Kurt Konrad interior was basically white or non painted in german tanks

Shell Bush the red primer is standard on german tanks

Timo Kembügler uhm no...

Oh, and it's Folks-vawgen, not Volks-wagon.

Ride of the Valkyres?

dioramas*

Good point, but I think in terms of the way he does his videos that might complicate things or take more time - which might mean fewer videos.

could have still painted the gun properly

Thank you , what does it actually translate into

Hi. Vollkettenaufklärer means "fully tracked recon/scout" voll = fullKette = Chain / Tracks Ketten = Chains / TracksAufklärer = recon or scout The fully tracked Reconvehicle 38 (38 tells you it's based on the Jagdpanzer 38 (t) "Hetzer") And Jagdpanzer = "Hunting-Tank" = tank destroyer A tank for hunting other tanks. jagen = (to) hunt Panzer = tank And your pronunciation was very good, but not perfekt. :) You have pronounce "Vollketten" like "Wolken-ketten" The german V is in this case like the f by the word forest and you speak it Voll-Ketten because this are actually two words. ("Wolken" is the German word for clouds by the way. :D) The -ketten was perfectly fine. Aufklarer was perfectly fine pronounced as well. But the German language is mean and it's has to be Aufklärer with the ä and suddenly it have to be pronounced another way. "klarer" is actuly a german word and you got it on point. It comes from "klar" klar = clear klarer = clearer So an "Aufklärer" is somebody or something who make things clearer and the Germans like the Ä so they put in there to screw with everybody who don't know the Ä. xD But I have actually no good Idea how to explain the correct pronunciation of Ä just in written words ... it like a mix of A and E. (You can acutly type ae for ä if you don't have it on your keyboard. People from Germany did this too, if they don't have an Ä on the keyboard. This Works for ö = oe ,and ü = ue as well.) But there are cleary some videos on YT where Ä Ö Ü will be explained with the right pronunciation. And realy nice work on the models which you make. Astonishing paintworks. (And sorry if my english is not the best.) Greetings form Germany. :)

exactinmidget92 The music is a filler between a full and understandable build guide.

That would be a lot to do while trying to concentrate on a build. To save you the trouble of using a search engine, here: forum.axishistory.com//viewtopic.php?t=196172 www.achtungpanzer.com/jagdpanzer-38t-hetzer.htm And there's this: "The Vollkettenaufklaerer 38 was originally an effort by Auto-Union to create a tracked reconnaissance vehicle suitable for Eastern Front operations. Auto-Union’s prototypes with an open-topped compartment appeared in early 1944, but they were never pursued. Czech company BMM followed up with its own version of a scout vehicle based on a Jagdpanzer 38(t) Hetzer chassis, with a mockup ready by September 1944. This example based on a modified 38(t) chassis featured a 7.5cm L/24 gun and was the only one built. Also known as the Gerat 564 Pz.Aufklwg.638/12. Most of these prototypes carried either a single or twin 20mm Flak 38."

I like the music, makes it more relaxing

Andy's got a hobby shop to run and a home life too. One of the enjoyable parts of a scale model build is doing your own research about the subject matter to see what to build and how to build it.

exactinmidget92 he's not jingles

Shaw Rosowitsch well Revell is good for starting off as they are easy to build and don't cost as much, but when you think you're better try do drift away from that because there are much better models out there

Probably because Revell GmbH was founded in Bünde, West Germany, in 1956? Revell has a good reputation, although like many companies they have hits and misses. They focus a lot on car kits, especially 1/18 and 1/24 scale. While not as detailed as Dragon and newcomers like Takom and Meng, they generally release decent kits at a reasonable (at least in the U.S.) price. They also rebox older kits with new parts like Tamiya does. I am just about to finish their Panzerspähwagen P204(f) kit, which is actually an ICM kit from last year. Went together quite nicely.

But depending on your interests, Revell is sometimes your only option.

Shell Bush well tanks and (war)planes mostly, armored vehicles are a kinda 3rd but not so big interest

hobbyhq2001@cox.net

thanks