Thank you, I appreciate it.

Thank you. By all means, if it's in someone's budget to do an FITech or Holly, go for it, I agree. They have a lot of benefits. But for someone going with a stock motor and looking to do it on a budget, it is a great option. Good luck with your build!

Thanks. Just a nice reliable driver, that can party when you want 😀

Thank you, I appreciate it.

Thank you. It was my first one. I'm about to start another on the channel in a 98 extended cab.

Thank you. I'm glad you liked it. 👍

Thank you. She gets a buff first of the season, but being rustoleum it doesn't hold well and dies off mid season.

Thanks for subscribing and checking out the channel. I appreciate it!

Thank you. Speed engineering headers are a go to for all types of applications. Sounds like you have a lot of great rides!

@@macsboneyardbuilds yeah im a definite gear head

My wife actually owns a vinyl cutting machine. I hijacked it one night and made it. I believe I've seen them on ebay or etsy before though. Not a problem, I appreciate everyone subscribing and showing interest in the channel!

Crap, I totally forgot about trans cooler. I did an 11" cooler in front of the radiator. Aluminum adapters to an lines and ran braded to and from. The fuel tank vapor line is ran to the back of the bed to a breather filter. Thanks for catching what I missed. Was trying to make it short and to the point.

If I have time, I will try and add some of the parts to the description. Don't know if I could do a complete list; there are lots of small fittings and customization to any build. If you have a specific part in mind, let me know. I'd be glad to let you know what I used. Thanks for checking out the channel 👍

I need to cap mine off a little cleaner, but it works for now.

@@macsboneyardbuilds my first solution was a bolt through a hose clamped on lol. The cleaning it up happens over time

Is it stupid if it works....haha

User was auto101. They run about $160 now. With what I've learned on ls droid, universal patcher, and pcm hammer for the cost of the obdx pro and a junkyard pcm, you could do your own. Be sure to check out that video as well. It's actually really easy once you figure it out. 👍

Mine usually reads a bit low. I think with the extra adapters to make the sending units fit, it doesn't get a completely accurate reading. If it goes way past "normal" I know a problem is occurring.

Check the gauge of your wire. I am running an autometer temp gauge and they are very particular on wire size / resistance of the wire too thick; too little resistance. I learned through trial and error

Thanks for the tip.

Yes, you could. Depending on the trans you may have to move it and make new holes. The factory crossmember makes running dual exhaust a pain, so I opted for the double humb crossmember.

🙄.....haha.

03 Escalade, got it the same time as the motor.

Nice. You can't beat the crown vics. Full size and tons of room

Yeah with the sender running straight to the gauge it's not avoidable really . It moves less with the 87 tank that has the baffles compared to the stock 81 tank, but still floats around under acceleration. But levels off pretty quickly.

@@macsboneyardbuilds ok thank you, I’ve been wondering if it was just me with this problem.

Did an extreme flush of the older system, radiator, and heater core. Fill with water, run, and drain like 20 times to be sure I purged all the green out. I've been running GM Dexcool for since and haven't had any gel up or issues. As long as you don't mix, it won't gel up. But gotta be sure every last drop of traditional green is out.

All you need to do is go to LT1SWAP.COM. He has pin outs for every single wire in the harness and their function. It is color coded for keeping, discarding, and keeping at your discretion. It is time consuming, but easy to follow. He also has a KZfaq page and does a harness in real time in a two or three part series.

Thank you. If you ever have any questions, I'd be glad to try and help. I don't know everything, but if I have a solution, I'd be happy to help.

@@macsboneyardbuilds thank you this is my first question you use a 90 steering column I assume you have to modify the electrical part of the column

@aztecghost33 it's an 80s tilt steering column with a 90s steering wheel. The steering wheels are interchangeable, and it was on it when I found it in the junkyard. It's a common swap a lot of people do.

@@macsboneyardbuilds ok thank you

No, my truck was originally a 6 cyl three on the tree. Did you use 1 3/4 or 1 7/8? The 1 7/8 are a tight fit. Mine are 1 3/4 and fit nicely.

@@macsboneyardbuilds I just checked and my order was 1 3/4 as well. The 1-3 and 2-4 cylinders are too wide for my frame. 5-7 and 6-8 are fine cause the frame widens up around them.

Which motor mounts did you use? Is it tucked up nice and close to the firewall?

@@macsboneyardbuilds I have the same adapter plate you do. I tried using the factor mounts but they wouldn’t bolt up. So I bought generic red polyurethane ls swap mounts. The red urethane with like yellow coated ears. I have the space of a 2x4 under my pan to the sun frame. Is yours lower or higher than that? I’m wondering if my motor need to be raised or lowered to work

I do not have that much space. It rides pretty close to the crossmember. Did you use the furthest setting holes on the adapter plates (forward which would move the motor back) . This is the hard part about youtube. Without seeing it, it is hard to give advice 😕

So think of it like a 4 barrel performance carb. You're driving down the road using 2 barrels on your carb, and then you smash the gas. On a 4 barrel carb, the extra 2 barrels open up, delivering more fuel for more power. On a factory tune, GM set power enrichment (think the extra 2 barrels) to kick in at 90% throttle for 60 seconds.....aka not gonna happen. They did this due to epa regulations, fuel milage, etc. If tuned in at 75%, no delay, as soon as the peddle hits 75%, the fuel injectors deliver more fuel to produce higher power, like your extra 2 barrels kicking in.

That is a cold air intake for a 99-06 silverado. It was originally shiny aluminum but was all scratched up from getting it at the junkyard. I sanded all the heavy scratches out and painted it with flat black bbq grill paint.

If it's not the starter like we talked about, 2 key cycles and it fires sounds like it's not building enough fuel pressure at start up. What's your fuel delivery setup?

@@macsboneyardbuilds Hello Thanks for the reply 50 psi. Today I tryed something different I reset the pcm by unhooking the battery drain the pcm. Then hook everything back up give it 3 10 min cycle with only the switch on. We'll today I drove it to Rome Georgia that about 30 miles from the shop. It fired up every time but the lek of power was not there that I can remember before trying this. So it close to finding the trouble shooting. Again I heard of this maybe you can help on this. The tempted sense up front on the drive side. Maybe be a problem not ground right or something. If I unplug the two wire clip it will kill the motor like you cut the switch off. So what I tryed I plug up another temp sensor and just layer it on the motor . It has the fast Rpm I ever heard it do plus it was fast. It's it possible I'm headed in the right direction. But I care not to run it like that I was it to be as it should be. Thanks again

I want to sure with you at one time I had it drive by wire. On the 5.3 it seem alittle faster in Rpm . Again I change on over to drive by cable. When I went to the boneyard I pull a harness from a drive by wire and the had that drive by cable from the truck I shared with you about. I have a complete pinout for both that how I was able to get that 4l60 to hook up with the 6.0. Some time s it's a shot in the dark. The pin out come off LS SWAP OFF THE INTERNET..

So did resetting the pcm help? The ls pcm needs to read the temp sensor. I don't think that's an issue. If you unhook it and stalls, it's reading it.

@@macsboneyardbuilds I know if you doubt it I understand. You would think out of almost years year and endless info. That it be running like a fast Tru k should. And if I'm out at the red-light. It's fast most of the time anyhow. I have it down pat. You would think I have 7 PCM all been flash. Green Blue Red Blue. The problem is I have not found anyone with positive info. You know Utube is covered with info. Again. It not skipping it not flooding . It act like it missing something. Thanks,again for you time.

Factory GM 10 bolt 2.73. Nope, she is a one wheel peel for now. Been trying to source a 3.43 suburban rear end of the same Era with posi. Unfortunately squares are getting harder and harder find. But I'm optimistic one will surface.

Sure, what are you having issues with?

@@macsboneyardbuilds I need help on the wiring on the inside right underneath the steering wheel next to the break pedal Can I send you some pictures

Sure. macsboneyardbuilds@gmail.com

Cheapest I've seen is over $300, and that's a hard pill to swallow.

SGI-100BT is $115.00 from Dakota Digital will convert any electronic signal for the speedo and the tach. If you don't have a electronic signal the flywheel tooth sensor is $89.99. That's a pretty good deal. ARK on KZfaq did a Ls swap on a S197 mustang and he is trying that box using his wheel Abs speed sensor. He is going to let me know if it works off the ABS sensor.

Thanks. It's actually just a 99-06 silverado ebay cold air intake I grabbed at the junk yard. Sanded it down and sprayed it flat black.

Yes, 87 R10 on driver side.

Still has the original truck pan. It clears everything fine but sits just a hair low. If I ever need to do an oil pump or something, I will probably get an ebay knock off pan. But the truck pan is working fine for now.

@@macsboneyardbuilds sweet👍 thanks!

I know the avalanche had an 8.1 in some of the HD models. If you go that route, the aftermarket support for the 8.1 isn't as prevalent as the 6.0 and below models. Good luck with your build!

Yes, actually was pulled from a gmc box truck, but it is the same transmission.

I appreciate you checking out the channel. If you're looking for large smokey burnouts or insane drifting, it's not gonna be here. But a few high RPM 0-60 pulls, oh, for sure. Unfortunately, I had this swap already complete when I decided to start Boneyard Builds. But, if time and funds allow some day, I would love to do a real time as it's happening build on the channel.

The great debate; are truck motors an LS.