I was sitting there all chill and learning from you And you had to break out solder on an automobile. Let me teach an old dog new tricks and go check out Devon vanderhoof on KZfaq

Excellent video folks! First video of your's I have seen, I look forward to checking out more of your work! Both of you communicate well clear speaking so you can be understood as well as explaining in simple English. I deeply appreciate this! I have been intimidated by these new fangled engines as in LS type engines. Have been involved in cars & trucks since 1976. I look forward to learning so much more from you two and your videos! Thank you be safe and take care! ✌ 🇺🇸

Thank you! We had another LS swap show up last weekend, so there's plenty more LS content on the horizon! We appreciate you watching! 👋

I noticed you used a scan tool? To reset the fuel trim I did a ls swap on a 71 Camaro I got the engine running but not idling right do you think I need to adjust the fuel trim your answer will be greatly appreciated thank you

Can you give me a description of what it's doing? How it's idling?

It always takes longer than expected. How did the start go? Jerry

@@UglyTruckExperience my replacement starter isn’t fitting correctly so no start. Soon!

Are you running headers? Jerry

@@UglyTruckExperience yes, they are aftermarket. They came with the swap and we’re in the truck when I took ownership of the project. Someone recommended shims so I’m looking into that before spending more cash.

@@Fahrenheit_Motorsports you running?

You know we love details! 🤓

Exactly, my son and I watch to learn something new every video!

Thanks!!! We have been watching your videos and really enjoy them. We are behind on a couple of them and will catch up tomorrow night most likely. Keep at it and we will too.

Llpllllllllpplp p p opppppppl0

@clunkersandclassics needs to do some homework before he burns his Chevy nomad wagon up

Thanks so much, and best of luck with your swap! You're going to love it! --Emily

Thanks for watching!

Hey, the ol' twist and tape will get you home in a pinch! 😁 Thanks for tuning in!

Glad you found us! There are a ton of reasons we like to use the factory harness. 👍 Thanks for watching. --Jerry

Thanks Slayer! We have plenty more videos on the way!

Thank you! 👋 We appreciate you watching! We have a bunch of other LS swap stuff too! kzfaq.info/sun/PL3Xf8yWArPC5Zw2UPwTvSvFt8CjEBSFiO

Thanks so much! We're just starting a couple LS swaps right now, so there's plenty more LS content headed your way! 👍👍

You're going to love it!

You guys are amazing on what you do Love your you tube channel. Lots to learn from you sr .

Thanks! We appreciate you watching!

Thanks 👍

Thanks Jwag! We appreciate you watching our stuff! Sounds like a great project. We were just talking this morning, out of all the trucks we've had, we've never had a stepside. Keep us posted on your swap! You're going to love it! Emily and Jerry

There is a lot more to it than people think. But it's definitely worth it!

Sounds like an awesome project! If you see us around somewhere, be sure to say hey! Thanks for tuning in!

Thanks William! We appreciate you watching!

Thanks so much John! We're glad you found us! 😁 --Emily and Jerry

Thank you! And thanks for watching! 👍

We like to throw as much information at you as we can, and hope some of it sticks. 🤣 And wire colors can't always be trusted... #pinsdontlie 😁 We appreciate you watching!

😆 You came to the right place! Check out this video! 😁 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mp6dlrSdkti9omg.html

Thanks so much, Carlos! We appreciate you watching our stuff! --Emily and Jerry

We hope it helps. What are you going to be doing to the Sierra? Jerry

@@UglyTruckExperience plan is bore the 5.3 to a 5.7 and full rebuild with Camaro heads with new summit pistons and rods with a chopacabra cam unless you guys have some ideas that go better together

Everything that we do for customers is all stock. We recently had a truck in with Truck Norris cam in it that we had to have tuned. It ended up running really nice. I don't have the time or equipment to tune so for the most part we stay away from changing anything that wouldn't be a stock tune. Let us know how it goes. Always curious to see how those combinations turn out. Thanks. Jerry and Emily

Thank you! We appreciate you watching!

😆 Thanks for subscribing! We appreciate it!

Welcome aboard! 👋

We try to keep it fun! 😁 Thanks for watching!

Thanks Jeremy. I think wiring is fun and am glad the video comes across that way. Thanks for watching. Jerry and Emily

Thanks! We appreciate you watching!

Totally possible. We have not done that in the past but am pretty familiar with the jeep fuse block. It would for sure be a challenge of a persons wiring skills. The Jeep box is not the most reliable and if I we're building what you describe, that is exactly what I would do. Let us know if you get into it and how it goes. Thanks Jerry

@@UglyTruckExperience Forward 2 months and I have torn the '93 Jeep engine bay harness apart and removed a bunch of stuff including the '93 Power Distribution Center (underhood fuse box.) I have laid the '03 engine harness on the engine in the engine bay and tried to figure out how it was originally laid out. In doing so, it soon became apparent that the '03 underhood fuse box was designed to go mid way up on the Drivers side fender well. Not going to work on my project. I managed to find a spot in my engine bay where I was able to shoe horn the '03 fuse box after doing a lot of cutting on the mounting bracket but it is in the passengers rear engine bay area. And, I could not find a great place for the computer and TAC. So, I tore the loom off the '03 harness and pulled every fuse wire back through the harness until they all exited the rear of the intake/engine. I then did the same for each computer wire! I routed the fuse wires to the fuse box area and the computer wires toward the drivers side back of the engine bay. I ended up doing some changes to the firewall but got the computer and TAC mounted up under the dash where the '88 Comanche computer lived! I then had to shorten or lengthen darn near every wire! I used a set of factory '03 manuals, '92 and '93 Jeep manuals, LT1swap.com and other internet searches for help. I think it'll work, but time will tell. :) Somewhere in this project I also decided a custom harness would have probably been a better choice. Anyway, there are some details that I am struggling with now. One being the fuel tank and vent. Not sure what to do. I live in WI where emissions are not a big deal, but I also don't want gas smell to be permeating the air with the tank vented to atmosphere. I've read through the '03 manual where it describes the stock '03 Evap system and it mentions a fuel tank pressure sensor, Purge solenoid, Vent Solenoid, and Evap canister. I think you kept the Evap Canister but what did you do about the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor? Also, I think there is a Control Module for this system. Any input? I also have questions about how to make A/C work on this project...not that I really need it, but it would be cool. I've watched your video on using the '03 A/C module, but I'm not really understanding the whole system. What do you do with the stock square body controls? What would I do with the stock '93 Jeep controls? I saw that you used an AC compressor that is not the '03 GM compressor. I have a non '03 GM, non '93 Jeep compressor mocked up in the same basic position as the stock '03 unit, but am not sure how to plumb it into a system. Again, not real important at this point, but if you've got input, I'm all ears. Thanks, Jeff

Something else to consider is that I removed the truck intake and front accessory drive, switched to a Corvette Harmonic Balancer and currently have a LS1 intake manifold with the truck fuel rails/injectors/crossover/throttle body in order to shorten and lower the whole engine package to better fit it in the rig (hood clears when closed!) I have a LS3 water pump mounted that clears the truck throttle body and locates the radiator output/input well. I am using a custom bracket to hold a power steering pump lower drivers side and the alternator upper drivers side (but lower and further drivers than the truck layout.) There is also a bracket to hold a York A/C compressor for onboard air on the upper passengers side. I thought this information may be helpful concerning the Purge solenoid and where exactly it would dump fumes compared to the truck intake manifold. Jeff

My first truck was a 97 Silverado SWB step side 4x4! I haven't talked Jerry into swapping one yet, but it sounds like fun! Thanks for watching! --Emily

We have another swap coming up and I will make sure we show that. I use all of the original battery harness and basically just run a 6 gauge wire from the battery over to the drivers side and bolt it to the #1 lug on the fuse box. cover that wire in conduit use heavy duty crimp connections on both side of that #6. Thanks for watching We appreciate it. Jerry

Thanks Rich, we appreciate you watching. Keep us posted on the 81.

Thanks! And thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks Sam. We have a bunch more on the way. Thanks. Jerry

Thank you! We appreciate you watching! 👍

Thanks for subscribing!

Thanks! And thanks for watching! We use AllData.

Thanks for subscribing! That sounds like an awesome project! You're definitely going to love it! 😁

Small world! That sounds like an awesome project! If you guys have any questions along the way, just leave us a comment and we'll do our best to help!

Thanks William. We appreciate it. Jerry and Emily

That's awesome! Thank you! 👍

What's the price on something like ls swap?

💪😎 Thanks for subscribing! Glad you found us!

We appreciate you watching! 👍

Hello Mathew. That power wire that came from your junction block that lead to the positive side of the coil is probably a resistor wire and needs to be changed to a 14 gauge regular wire. That would be your new hot in run start and crank wire. Hope that helps. Thank you for watching. Jerry and Emily

Thanks Harley! We appreciate you tuning in! --Emily and Jerry

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for subscribing! We really appreciate it! 😎👍

Thank you Tony. We appreciate you watching..

We appreciate you taking the time to watch our videos!

Hello Jonathan. You would need to elaborate a bit. What are you swapping and using in your swap? Jerry

I like to keep him on his toes. 😂😂 We appreciate you watching!

Thanks Mike! We really appreciate it! 👍

Thanks Hunter. That's a question we've had quite a bit. We'll be sure to cover that in a video soon! If there's a specific question you have, we'd be glad to try to answer it. We appreciate you tuning in! --Emily and Jerry

The reason for running a relay for that starter wire is to reduce the amperage that is running through your ignition switch to that starter. If you still have the original gauge purple wire that will reach the starter solenoid you can just run it directly to starter. That 87 switch and wiring was made to handle that. If you do use a relay, there is no reason for diode but you would want it to be protected by a fuse. Let us know how it goes. We appreciate you watching. Jerry and Emily

@@UglyTruckExperience awesome, thank you so much for such a quick reply.

Thanks Ray! You definitely won't regret it after the first test drive! 😁

@UglyTruckExperience Thank you for the reply question can the 700R4 work with the LS?

It can, but the cable on the 700r4 makes it very difficult. You will be much happier to go with the 4l60e. Jerry

On this application pin b11 in connector 1 is the power supply for a power sun roof. Thanks for watching.

Hi Dustin! We appreciate you watching! Here's a link to a playlist for fuel system info. kzfaq.info/sun/PL3Xf8yWArPC4TUjRqrBmqWNkxiJSnf84p And here's a link to a video to power up the 4L60E. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fKp2apmGqNOmZJc.html Thanks for tuning in!

We are always open to doing a swap on anything, but don't have anything like that on our schedule right now. Would be an interesting one though. Jerry

We knew there were some crimp and solder fans out there! 😁👍 Thanks for subscribing! --Emily and Jerry

We appreciate you watching, Rob! Here's a link to a video on how we mount these OEM fuse boxes! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/g72np6Vh08i0p40.html

I’ve got all of your videos bookmarked! Both of these are keepers!!! If you can figure out how to Mount the AC compressor in the stock location without butchering the frame, I’d love to see what you can come up with. I’m always waiting for your next video. I love how y’all explain everything! Keep ‘em coming!!!

Thanks Rob! It's funny you should mention that! No spoilers, but don't go cutting that frame too soon! 😉😉

Hello Eric. The 700r4 uses a throttle vacuum cable to control its shifts which can be a problem especially if you are going fly by wire. If doing fly by cable you will need to run that cable up and have it operate similar to what it did with the throttle body. I have never used one for that reason. Thanks for watching and keep us posted. Thanks

@@UglyTruckExperience I will definitely have to find a vehicle that comes with a longer cable the one on that came on the 88 silverado Is at least 8 maybe 10 inches to short ...I want to thank you guys for sharing all the knowledge I appreciate all your videos

😆😆 Glad someone appreciates my jokes! Thanks for tuning in! --Emily

Glad you liked it! We use AllData for our shop program, so we use their scan tool. We pay a monthly fee, but it gives us all the info and wiring diagrams we need. We appreciate you watching!

We appreciate you watching! We use AllData for our shop program, so we use their bluetooth scanner and a tablet. It gives us all the wiring diagrams and info we need, but we do pay a monthly fee.

Thanks for watching! We're in SW Missouri. 👍

We appreciate you watching! We have two 86 C10's lined up for LS swaps, so if there's anything you'd like to see, let us know! We use LT1swap.com for our programming. He has a ton of info on his website, and is always quick to get them back to us. 👍

I enjoy your guys content also the info on were to send the computer I have a few other questions about this what fuel pump do you use and also how about the 02 sensors and knock sensors

Hello Brendan. The general rule would be to use a fusible link with a gauge that is four sizes smaller than the gauge of wire you are protecting. So If you have a 12 awg wire going to fuse box, you would use a 16 gauge fusible link. If you are using the OEM fuse box, you could use the fuse that protects lug number 2 eliminating the need for the link. Thanks. Jerry

Thanks so much for your comment! We use lt1swap.com/programming.htm for our programming. He has a ton of great LS swap info on his site, definitely worth checking out. On this truck we deleted VATS, rear O2 sensors, and had him program it for the gear ratio. Other than that, it is a stock tune. Here's a whole playlist of LS swap videos that might help you out! We really appreciate you watching! kzfaq.info/sun/PL3Xf8yWArPC5Zw2UPwTvSvFt8CjEBSFiO

@@UglyTruckExperience that’s who I was planning on using. Thanks for the advice and content.

What you do bout foot pedal

😂 We wouldn't leave you hanging like that!

Thanks! We appreciate you watching!

🐐🐐😁 Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching! We're still working on an accel pedal video. We had the PCM programmed for the swap, but as far as tuning the engine, no. The PCM controls everything, so all we did was fire it up and confirm that everything looked good on the scan tool. 👍

Thanks Tonie! We're just outside of Springfield, MO. Thanks for watching! Emily and Jerry

Hello David. Give me some more details about your jeep. Year and any other info that would help. Donor motor and what you are using for a harness, etc. Will take a look at a wiring diagram and see what you are working with. Thanks. Jerry

We just recorded that video recently and it will be coming out shortly. Thanks Benjamin. We appreciate you watching.

Thanks for watching!

@@UglyTruckExperience I like how you do Ls swaps. I am considering an ls swap and I did not want to chop up the Ls engine harness or the original c10 harness to do it.

It is definitely a ton of work but worth every minute. Thanks again.

Yep, that's a pretty important wire if you want to use the key to start it! 😁 Thanks for watching!

Hi Brian! Sounds like a great project. Yes, you will need to have the security system (VATS) turned off on your computer. Here's a video that might be helpful. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pdqAeZWdxrmrp5c.html Thanks for watching! Emily and Jerry

Yep, here you go! Thanks for watching! CRUISE CONTROL: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i9qIZJmQz5aunIU.html A/C WIRING: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qtxhf9d9uZ_enYE.html

@@UglyTruckExperience Thank you!

The 2002 wiring is different. Your trucks starter wire would go to f11 on connector #2. It is either purple with white tracer or might be yellow. A9 on C1 is correct for key on run power. B11 would work fine for supplying power to your interior fuse box as long as it is protected with link or a fuse which it sounds like you have done. We need to do a video on the 2002 and earlier one of these days. They are quite a bit different and it trips people up pretty often. Let us know how it goes. Thanks. Jerry and Emily

Jerry and Emily, thanks again for taking the time to answer our questions. On the 2002 fuse block, my F11 is a yellow wire, circuit 1737 described as Neutral Safty Switch Park/Neutral Signal. The F10 is purple with a white tracer described as Starter Relay Coil Supply. I just wanted to check with you to see if I should still use F11 yellow for my crank wire or F10. Thanks again, Randy @@UglyTruckExperience

A 70 c10 would have had a resistor wire going to the ignition coil that would need to be changed. Other than that the wiring would be the same for what is required to start up the LS.

The 2012 twelve camaro was available with a V8 and and also the v6 which had around 300 horsepower. It will be a totally different monster to put a V8 in. Technically it should be easier when it comes to the wiring. If you give it a shot, please let us know. Thanks. Jerry and Emily

Have not had that issue but sounds like it would have to be a grounding issue. What does the gauge do with the pump on? Jerry

@@UglyTruckExperience Hey Jerry, it was a ground issue. The gauge would go to full when the pump was running. If the ignition was in the on position without the pump on, it would read accurately.

Awesome. Glad you found the problem. I think that's why I like wiring so much, because of the weird things that happen.

@@UglyTruckExperience thank you! I saw in one of your videos you’re planning on using the donor fuse/relay box to power the headlights etc, looking forward to that! I’m going to attempt to use it for the electric fans and other items on my next swap. Thanks for all the great content. You guys are awesome!

When you get up into the larger wires I had a few problems with them, but really started to like them on the 16 gauge and up wires. I will use them again on smaller stuff but larger wires I really try to do with no butt connectors at all if possible. When I do I will probably keep with a good heat shrink connector. Thanks for all your comments.

@@UglyTruckExperience huh ? Lol

Sorry, this internet stuff is hard sometimes. 🤣🤣

@@UglyTruckExperience I also use the solder butt connectors. With the larger gauge wires, I have found that it you apply a small amount of flux paste to the wires before you put them in the tube I get much improved results.

If you are using the original donor harness like we are in this video. The purple wire that goes to Yellow in the fuse box is used to fire up the Starter relay that sends power to your starter solenoid through the donor harness. Jerry

Nice catch Rickn8or. They we're totally unnecessary. I see people running those red wires to the lug on the firewall with no protection, so I was just trying to drive it home with protecting the circuit. Thanks. Jerry

@@UglyTruckExperience, I wouldn't have noticed it myself, but I've been chasing out every fuse in the fuse block to find power for building a fan control relay like you did, only in my '03 Suburban. FYI, the red wire on Stud 1 goes to the power pin on the 7-way trailer lights connector, but has no power because of the red plastic "B+" block prevents putting a fuse there until you're ready. The red wire on Stud 2 goes to an area near the Instrument Panel Relay and Circuit Breaker Panel to the left of the steering column, to join several others for a Trailer Brake Controller installation. Yes, GM left a live wire floating around under the dash all these years. Chasing wiring diagrams for days to find a fuse that I could convert to provide coil power to Relay #3, I finally looked at the fuse block itself and realized there were three empty locations to put in fuse wiring. (Sloped shoulders and flat foreheads...)

If you are using the lug on the donor fuse box to power up the interior fuse box of the truck, you would not need another fuse. I know in this video I also used fusible link on that circuit. It was not necessary. I just don't want people out there creating circuits that are not protected by some form of fuse. You can run as many fuses you like on a circuit with no problems. But making a circuit with no protection can be a real problem. Thanks. Jerry

Thank you for what you do! All of your videos are by far the best explanations I’ve found. I think I’ve watched this one 10 times already.

Yes, as long as your transmission is wired up also. Check out this video. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fKp2apmGqNOmZJc.html We appreciate you watching!

Thanks for watching! Here's a link to the intake kit we ordered, but it took quite a bit of engineering to get it just right. Had to make some brackets to mount it, and we recycled the flexible rubber duct from an original LS intake tube. But the finished product turned out great and the customer loved it! www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SGJ9JCF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

@@UglyTruckExperience thanks

Yes, the original fuse box in the cab powers everything else that is not related to running and starting this engine. I do make the lights run off of the donor fuse box but it is not necessary. We will be doing a video on that soon. Thanks again. Jerry and Emily

What is your battery voltage at the battery while cranking?

Hello Bill. Your the first person to catch that. I see most of these done with the power leads tied to that lug on the firewall or another power source that is not protected. So I just try to stress the importance of protecting that circuit. In this case it doesn't hurt anything, but it is definitely overkill. Thanks. Jerry

I have never done that for anybody but would be willing to if it needed. Do you have a swap that you are working on? Thanks

This truck originally had a carburetor. The Grey wire that comes out of that red connector under the 2005 fuse box goes to your wire that supplies power directly to fuel pump. The power comes from a relay in that box and is turned on by the ecm. Hope this helps. Thanks. Jerry

Her name is Ripley and she is a mess. 😆 Here's a link to the intake kit we ordered, but it took quite a bit of engineering to get it just right. Had to make some brackets to mount it, and we recycled the flexible rubber duct from an original LS intake tube. But the finished product turned out great and the customer loved it! www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SGJ9JCF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 That's awesome to hear you decided to make the swap! Keep us posted!

@@UglyTruckExperience your the best and thank you for the quick response

A 67 Malibu would have had a resistor wire that went the power side of the ignition coil. That would be the wire to use as long as you replace the resistor wire with a regular wire. Thanks Steve. Jerry

Yes, and here's a link to a video covering what you need to know to have your PCM programmed. We appreciate you watching! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pdqAeZWdxrmrp5c.html