Excellent stuff! The wheel against the wall, the 15mm hex key and the steel pipe for leverage. It got the job done for me and I am not sure I would have persevered without having seen your video. Thank you.

This has helped me, thanks. I didn't have any tool available to remove the freehub body from the hub, so I just left it on there and disassembled it like that. It was cumbersome but still worked like a charm.

AMAZING DETAILED VIDEO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i have a ALEX ACE rear hub on my Cannondale Bad Boy 5 - Sram 11 hex socket , just added 10w-30 oil and took the rear seal and forced Automotive wheel bearing Grease .and reassembled

Good video! I did part of this procedure, stopped before disasembling the freehub. My older Deore XT required a 10mm hex wrench. My hub wobbled on the wheel, so I tightened with the 10mm hex and put everything else back together.

Thanks to your detailed explanation video, I performed hub maintenance for the first time today. In fact, this is the first maintenance in 14 years. Now that I have learned it, I will maintain it once a year. Thank you again to mu Hub and Your.

The teacher you wish you had in school 🤝🔥 One of the best bike channels if not the best, BIG CONGRATS🥇

Konecne video, ktore mi super pomohlo. Dakujem.

This is the best trick to remove a difficult freehub I found. Thanks

Thanks for the vid. Finally sorted my freewheel problem with a 15mm key.

This video was helpful.. thank you, I watch many of you videos and have leaned much. Keep up the awesome work 👍

I took an old socket, put it in the big old bench vice - and with an angle grinder, ground it with 2 notches to fit in the freehub to free up the guts. Great video!

Thank you! I had to search for a while to find this video. Everything that comes up is either microspline or really old QR stuff.

Thank you. I will do it tomorrow.. greetings from Bolivia, a horrible place for cycling in general.

Awesome explanation. Is the best ever I've seen!!!

Thank you Sir!! Your video tutorial is a big help

If you have to take the freehub body apart, then you can use the TB-1018 tool, from SuperB, to dismantle it. Alternatively you can use a Morningstar Freehub Injector so that you don't even have to dismantle it at all! Just use it with degreaser to flush out the old lube and dirt, let it sit for a while to dry out and then inject it with your choice of lube. I use a heavy oil, like gear box oil, which I've done now for about 20 years or so, with good results.

That first seal, witch you remove with screwdriver, I got good tip from Park Tool's video where Calvin Jones suggested use tyre lever instead screwdriver. And you can put back with right size socket.

great vid mate, i struggles for hours and dont wanna buy a new hub thank you for saving me a dollar

Totally excellent. Thank you. Have a friends bike for service. Freehub needs stripping.

Hi I love this channel

Thank for the clip , Danny

Excellent Video!!!

Thank You for the video!

Super helpful. Thank you very much.

Depends why you want to remove the freehub. If it is just a bit 'sticky' you probably do not need to remove it, but can get by with flooding it through with a solvent to wash out old grease, followed by a light oiling, with cleaning and regreasing the axle bearings.

Great video, thanks a lot ❤️

Thanks. This video helped me.

Great job! Thanks

It looks more complicated to clean and maintain than the other budget hubs. I always prefer Shimano Deore for MTB, but I'm thinking now to get a Sealed Bearing type one now. :)

Nice info, thanks for sharing :)

You need a 12 mm star drive to remove from the wheel. I could not get the freewheel apart so soaked in petrol. Have it a tap on bench and pawls then worked. Final clean in thinners, soaked in container of engine oil and works perfectly.

If you don't find a 15mm Allen key, you can use a 15mm bolt welded to a right angled rod

Nice video! Thaks a lot! Do you know the size (diameter) of the bearigs? Mine need replacing

I find the attitude echoed in many of these posts, "but it's so cheap to throw it in the landfill and buy a new one and I don't have to learn or do nearly anything just buy and waste", very disheartening. I believe it was H.G. Wells who said;"Every time I see an adult on a bicycle, I no longer despair for the future of the human race ". I can assure you it is not "you" he is talking about.

Thanks for the video. I see that the bearings of the deore range are larger than those of lower range, could you change them in this case ???

Nice work 👏 👌

it's recommended to use thick oil than grease when relubing the freehub because over time grease gets stiff and gummy and it slows down the pawl movement in the freehub, but you can use grease when you're putting back the bearing balls so it holds it and prevents it from rolling all over the place, or use silicone grease to lube the freehub(its much thinner and its safe for plastics and rubber) don't use magnetic screwdrivers to extract the bearing balls and then reusing it because it magnetizes the bearing balls thus preventing it to roll smoothly cheers

I was for a vid with same hub as mine, finally the same Merida wheel, the whole thing is the same 🥳

quality freehub design

A big torx driver also works if you don’t have a 15mm hex. If i remember correctly i used a t55

Thank you!!

I never put grease where the engager are located, only a dips of a nice oil, I use motorex CNC spindle oil, itc vgc 46. Work for me, on the opposite side behind the rubber in my case, I put a lot of thick grease as a preventative action.

5:11 doing this without a special tool is the easiest way to damage the parts. In your video it seems easy because it's either brand new or you did it first offscreen. In real life this part will most likely be very hard to turn around within the freehub body. You usually open work hubs with seized parts, not the fresh new ones.

Good video - thanks. About the only thing I don't have in the toolbox is a 15mm hex wrench

Hi can i use the unior freewheel tool 2/4. Does this fits?

Now im interested to see how my pawls look cuz in one specific spot it skips like it's broken so i want to see if that's the case

Good video! Only I wouldn’t use the thick grease with the pals. Just oil. The grease will make them stick quickly. On the rest grease is fine.

Beste Ik heb een vraagje Is het mogelijk om overschakelen van body 10 naar 12 ? Alvast bedankt

To install the seal I`m using flank socket applicable by diameter. Just put flank socket above of seal and easialy pushing it by hand.

Is a microspline swap available for this hub?

The free hub is normal from slight shakinh side to side?

My front wheel thru Axel lock is broken. I can't remove Axel for it. I did not found any videos about that contains on KZfaq .plz make it for us..

you should always separate balls (those 38+34) and not mix them - when you take them out and put them back in - as they will not have the same size but eventually wear a bit so the size will differ from one side to the other. i am talking fractions of a micron but it does matter. take notice that good quality grease can act as a polishing agent (due to the additives) whenever direct contact of metal to metal would occur (mixed lubrication, not boundary, not hydrodynamic) so that they would have even smaller grade then when new. so, the balls will be worn a bit (not that you see it) and they should wear down evenly on one side but not in the same amount as to the other side.

This deore hub is same only like non series shimano hub?

Congradulation !!

the cleats are why not in simmetrical positions ?

Great!

Ty ją w swojej piaście nie mam kulek tylko łożyska. Jak to rozebrać ?

Whow talking about detail nice precision

Does anyone one know how to convert the type of freehub body show in the video so that it it fits the SRAM XD hub body?

Hi, Your tutorial videos are the best because bit helps me a lot 🙂 Can I ask what is the dimension of the tiny loose ball bearings? Advance thanks

İs it same process with 61? Series deore ?

u can make ur own tool with a 21mm or a 13/16 socket to remove this cap

Thanks.....

Mine does not loosen. I even heated it up. The spokes tend to bent iso the hub that comes loose.

My understanding is that ball-bearing sets are always odd numbers. So 35 and 37 would've been correct. But, I could be wrong?

How would I understand if I tighten with correct torque the locknut which holds freehub body brearing together? The locknut which is also acts as a cone. You tighten it on 14:05 In my case I either get some weird axial movement/play in the entire freehub body (like if it's undertightened), or else I think I ovethight them. But the small play is always there.

Unless the freehub body has play, all I ussually do is just immerse it in thick silicon oil and keep it for a night to let excess oil go. It is much easier procedure and last years before you need to run the procedure again.

Good video, and great info here. But I'm not really sure this service is absolutely needed on Shimano freehubs. I've been running mostly Shimano hubs in my 21+ years of riding and have never had a single problem with any of them, except for a broken front axle on one occasion. I've taken Shimano freehubs apart before just for the heck of it but not because they needed any kind of service or repair. My current bike has XTR wheels/hubs which are about 5 years old and have over 25k miles and I've never even adjusted the bearings, much less remove the axles etc and they still work like new. In my opinion Shimano hubs are best left alone and will last a VERY long time without any problems. Which is a *LOT* more than I can say about some other brands for the few times that I've tried them.

I have custom hardtail made with expensive parts very nice and strong ,and I maintain always, bro I love MTB ride hard , ,,,

Hi I would probably do this as I'm into not buying new unless totally unavoidable. Most manufacturers recommend not using grease only oil, as grease may cause a sluggish freehub. Is this different for Shimano freehubs as I'm just about to service one and want to get the right lube for it.

Grime? Call that grime? I have more grime than that in my eyes when I wake up every morning! I've just stripped the rear wheel in my 2005 Kona. Now that's grime. The FWH is dead. :-(. Really dead. As others say you can make a tool to dismantle the FWH. I did. Thanks for the video.

I'm wondering if the grease on the pawls is a bit too thick? Good video. What is that Topeak tool?

Bought deore m6000 hubs..wanted to re grease everything before using..surprised to see the inside because it is nothing like that in the video.. mine has only 2 pawls instead of 4..is mine counterfeit?

when putting the freehub back on, the nut that holds it on, that the axle goes through... is this hand tightened, tight enough without play but not too tight?

super b tb-1018 is like 10 bucks. I made mine from a 1/2 - 22mm hexagon socket using a belt sander, an angle grinder and a file. After that I ordered the super b. 😅

Hello, amazing vid, congrats. I have a FH M400B and I would like to know the size of the smaller bearing balls, the ones 34-38 inside the hub. By a chance, are the 3/32" ones? otherwise, how can I find the right size? Thankss!

Hey, I currently have a Shimano Deore M525 32Holes (Bolt type). I am wondering will it fit 11s cassette (Slx) because I am choosing between Deore and Slx? Thank you! :)

I did not count the bearings but mine has a little gap too. It is normal i think because these items nt servicable parts. when try to fill gaps with bearings, it did not spin nicely. Thanks

AYUDA PORFAVOR Hola hay que desmontar el núcleo obligatorio? Yo no puedo volver a montar se me queda frenado al poner la rosca con las dos muescas y apretar solo un poco que queda todo frenado ayuda

Seems like, that oil you can see inside a hub - is a stratification of original grease.

👍

37 balls bottom and 35 on top, l have exactly the same hub model.

I think its safe to say my hub is better off dead. I bent a 21mm spanner using it as a lever trying to get my freehub off and used a section of 25mm galvo square section as a lever to and it tore straight through that XD

Thank s guys

I read that using a magnet to remove the ball bearings was not ideal. Is there any thruth to that? Thanks!

what hubs is that? is it the latest deore hubs?

La tapa que le pegas con un destornillador y un martillo es contrarosca porque le pego y no se afloja

Iam from Malaysia and using freehub exactly same like this. MT400. Its difficult to find 15mm allen key anyway.

I am not sure if this was already commented, but I believe you put the wrong number of balls in the inner part. My experience is that it is almost always odd numbers. So it probably 37 inner and 35 outer.

Blood hell mate, is it 14mm or 15mm allen key ?

My deore hub loss the freewel when i pedal the pawls not biting i dont know what happen

somebody know what is the bolls or bearings size

yea 15 mm hex

Ok, I now have a new appreciation of my Hope hubs that are so easy compared to this.

You do not want grease under the pawls.

2:17 better not to mix balls between left cup and right cup. They are chosen to go into the same cup side.

All other freehub service video on youtube like gmbn or gcn they use oil not grease inside the hub

Ju ar polisz wloger?

I have a Shimano FH-M737 hub from around 1997 and I can't remove dust cap no matter how hard I am trying. It looks like it has a solid metal dust cap and Shimano doesn't want that to be removed at all. But in that case, I can't get inside of the freehub body to clean anything. My freehub body is wobbling a bit so it could be something wrong with bearings, I can't even check it. I can only remove the rubber ring in the back and expose those bearings in the back of it but I can't do anything else with my hub. Very disappointing as I don't want to be buying a new one (which is even hard to get and also expensive).