@Phoenix Gael sounds scam

It makes it sound more expert

Literally saved my knees hahahaha

If no one ever told you that, then you "tried everything" except for watching a few youtube videos.

If it squeaks when braking that's a different issue. Probably you have contaminated (dirty) disks &/or pads. If it squeaks all the time (even when not braking), you may have warped/bent disks or your static pad is still adjusted too close to the disk rotor.

Bro we got on the mtb side on a Trek Marlin 8 hydralic disc brakes that are the lowest end shimanos out there. (Which work rather well but shouldn’t be on a bike like that). And those brake cost 80$. The wheels still come with cheap formula hubs.

@@Drago0900 interesting. Maybe I should have gone for hydraulic brakes.

This is the unfortunate problem with the bike industry moving towards disc brakes due to marketing. Cheap disc brakes are absolute garbage. Manufacturers should stick with rim brakes if they're trying to hit a price point, rather than throwing in cheap disc brakes. You can always trust a pair of $10 V-brakes to stop you. Good luck with a $10 disc brake system. The sad thing is, even the cheapest mechanical disc systems are far more expensive than rim brakes. Which means the manufacturer is also cheaping out on other components to hit the price point.

no, the performance comes from your fingers or the type of brake pad / disc. All you do with this adjustment is set your preferred bite (or engagement) point in your lever.

Me too. Maybe your comment help me.

How have you reassembled?

@@nippitaboy I had to reassembled the caliper arm really carefully. Once I had the springs in the tiny groves, I duct taped the inside of the caliper arm to the spring by threading the spring through the duct tape. No more slipping! I plan to replace the brake soon though.

"YOU ABSOLUTELY NEED HYDRAULIC! EVERYTHING ELSE IS UNSAFE! YOU ARE GONNA CRASH AND DIE IF YOU USE ANYTHING BUT HYDRAULIC! I AM NOT GONNA SUPPORT THIS!" -my local bike mechanic when I asked him to order some mech discs. meanwhile the cheapo hydro brakes on my 800$-Bike: Leaking oil all over the place at least once a year, to the point were you need to worry about loosing braking power on just about half of your tours - what a great feeling, when being 50km from home or somewhere off grid entirely. I mean I used service my bikes completely on my own before I got hydros. I've had V'brakes and mech discs before and I was totally happy with the mech discs. Never had as many issues as with the hydros. I am going back to mech disc and I am going BB7 as they seem the easiest to service in the field. And I am going back to servicing my bikes themselves. You always hear about supporting your local businesses, but what am I supposed to do? I am for sure not gonna take the risk of loosing 90% break power in the middle of nowhere, just so they can have a premium for the leak-fix every year and if they slap my hand when trying to offer to them one last opportunity to make some money, it's their fault I am spending my money on the internet and put in the work myself. Like it's nuts. This bike shop puts its revenue for servicing the hydros about my safety! They wouldn't even listen to my arguments for changing the brake system! Servicing the hydros myself is just not worth the hustle. I like how they feel, but I don't like em that much that I carry around bottles of oil, gaskets and specialized tool on every tour just in case. A simple allenkey on the other hand easily is put in your pocket in a pinch and you're good to go even in the unlikely scenario of sudden loss of brake power. Except of course if your cable snaps, but I've never experienced that or even heard of it happening, so that's probably an irrational fear of some people. And buying proper Hydros? Why would I buy brakes that cost me at least half of the price of my bike? Especially if I am not riding down hill or hardcore xc or anything else where you need that much braking power. That idea is just ridiculous.

@@sihilius You make some very good points there. I didn't think about if by some happenstance my brake line got cut while riding or my hydraulic fluid somehow sprung a leak. Cables are are extremely strong and durable and can function upside down (something I happen to discover when I was test riding a bike and I was just moving it around on its rear wheel, working the rear brakes to help me maneuver it.) I piece of advice, because I had spent almost $100 trying to troubleshoot this, make sure you buy quality pads, do NOT buy economy, stick to either AVID or cool-stop. If you're heavy like me, opt to buy the larger rotors and adapters, like 180mm.

@@MavHunter20XX Thanks for your advice. I appreciate It. I already got a 180mm rotor in the front and a 160mm in the back from the old system. Guess they should be fine since I am of the lighter variety and usually don't carry a whole lot of weight in my backpack. And they still are well thick enough, so I am gonna keep them and see how they work with the new brakes. I also already ordered the first two sets of replacement pads with the brakes themselves. They are also avid ones, so I should be fine in that regard. Currently I am just waiting for the old brakes to leak again and as soon as I notice the slightest loss in braking power, I am heading straight home and switch them, so finally this bike will be actually reliable, rather than marketing reliable.

@@sihilius I recommend 180 in the rear as well, but I am of the heavier type. The reason why I say this is because if you're descending and braking, you'll want to shift your body behind your saddle ( you might know this already). However, there's nothing wrong to see how things work out first.

Don't need to take the tire off, to fix a flat. Just pull the part of the inner tube out.....patch it..... and roll on.

My Shimano MT200 dual piston hydraulics are brilliant for everyday use, quiet too. Did you beak in your pads and rotors properly?

@@vinceking7878 Well, I practiced a bit and I think that helped a little - first maybe to brake the pads in [maybe], and second to get used to needing to use a lot of force when pulling on the brake to get any effect. As I said above, the main issue I think is just that the Tektro iOX on my bike are single piston - and such systems suck. The only advantage they have is that good V-Brakes on very wet days are worse - but other than that case / scenario, I think that single piston disc brakes are just generally the worst setup that you can have. . It is not even easy for me to swap a part out to fix this - because my gear and brake levers are those Shimano ones that are all one integrated piece🤦‍♂ But thanks for the reply. 👍

Perfetto!

Bicycle repair shops were invented for you.

@@howgoodwasthat My fault I was impatient I can usually do my own repairs but this bike is a Frankenstein of parts the brake levers are not the same as the disc brakes so those I’m upgrading later they work for now and even then the calipers were a brand I never even seen. The tires don’t get me started it’s been 3 days and I still can’t get that rim straight and it’s a mag wheel so it shouldn’t be out of alignment I believe I have to remove the tire just to put it back on again since the rotor keeps rubbing on my brake I still can’t get the front correctly I managed the back wheel but not my front. That being said not a bad bike for the money it’s my fault as I was being lazy and impatient without knowing how easy the adjustments were this is why I never buy my bikes online and always buy from local shops saves me the headache I managed to get the wheel somewhat correctly but that one spot is always rubbing the bead just refuses to seat.

Might have gotten bashed/wrecked?

Spray some WD40 on it, might have some rust on the threads

@@albert.6925 Also DON'T forget to loosen the lock before and after you adjust the piston.

There is a tiny locking screw on the side/top of the big adjuster screw. Make sure it is loose before adjusting the pad.