I remember circuit city had a boom room lol

Remember those dual brand subs in the bandpass box that lit up blue

@@deanslegos1990 lol yes I remember. There was also a Jensen bandpass box where I went. Those bandpass setups never sounded as good as the other setups though

Same as Radio Shack

Ohhhh I member

he definitely knows his stuff

Ed Jackson same.

Before the internet they were one of the few ways a person from a rural area could learn about and compare gear. Where I grew up there wasn't a hifi or car audio shop for 100+ miles. The quarterly Crutchfield catalog was a big deal

@@303nitzubishi4 Same here. The old catalog was chocked full of data. I used to study specs for hours. I blew every dime on car audio gear. My parents thought I was nuts. They weren't too far off

What Wizard is to Baseball cards, Crutchfield is to Car Audio..

Their customer service is the gold standard. Every company should compare themselves to Crutchfield

Pete, I couldn't have said it better myself. So many people either jumping to their own conclusions or passing on whatever misinformation they recieve. I feel bad for some of the people in these forums. They are getting either made fun of by people who don't use the same brand or getting terrible responses from people that just want to up their stats for answering questions with just a couple words uping the amount of questions back and forth and not even able to help.

The dislikes are from Rockwell

Amen.

There actually are merits to that, but by no means that should be rule of thumb. People should just learn the shit to do to right thing, or let others do that. You think you´re going to be an aerospace engineer after reading two days on google? :-D

If yer amp is running low of juice a cap will help.

what's wrong with turning the gain up? this is what I do is it wrong?

"Bass boost" just turns everything else down

@@trevormtb9372 thats not true

Haha that's a classic. Usually the subwoofers labeled "competition" are the worst!

It's like reverse psychology

@@CarAudioFabrication yes because most of the pyramid flagship line their coveted gold series except for 3 things is probably the most issues I've ever had with pyramid products, and it isn't car audio but about the only competition products I've used that seems to be useable and a really good product is competition cams!?

60 cds?

@Stimpy&Ren it's only for AMPS!!! the one for subs is CEA-2010 if I'm not mistaken.

Rockville is a myth company😂😂

Everybody finding out Rockville is trash.

Mike Cheeze this ☝️CEA2006 is for amplifiers, CEA2010 for speaker drivers. Many companies are also based in countries where its not uncommon to straight up lie about ratings. This is a huge problem with consumer products and their electrical safety certificates. Basically they are selling potentially deadly products and marking them as CE or UL compliant. Very common in cheap products. You get what you pay for. A red flag in car audio products are items mainly advertising their max ratings and usually having very limited specifications available.

And in my humble opinion, you now have the best type of car sound. I was into competitions etc back in the day and hit 152.2db with 2 x 12" subs. That was damn loud - I'd play a bit of a ballad and out-bass guys with 2x 15's playing EDM (Literally happened, at a packed car wash and it was pretty damn funny). Anyway, my point is, that I guess when we're young we want to be a bit showy - so we go for the kind of loud that rattles house windows of the girls we're interested in when we rock up but as some of us age, we realise that the quality aspect of loud makes loud EVEN BETTER.

Wesley Petersen very true. Lol just Thursday before leaving work I sat to get updates on the Raptors winning and was playing my music. Lol coworker says oh that sounds good outside your truck for a stock stereo. Lol so I had to pop the seat up and show him it’s definitely not stock. I only had the volume to 20 and it goes to 50. Again another person mind changed. And my Alpine amps are about to be 10 years old.

Your current system sounds like mine not loud outside but very audible inside.

Best type of setup I don’t need everyone at the stoplight to shake as well, just my seats

Yep. Both my trucks aren't that loud outside, but PLENTY inside. I make a 150W Kicker 10 put out great in my single cab Ranger with my custom designed ported box. Am I blowing out eardrums, no, but it's plenty loud inside for any kind of normal or "spirited" listening.

Thousands? That's on you lol. Wtf?

@@Dude-Smellmyhelmet well. New kenwood excelon deck. New 2 channel amp which he used for mids and highs. New 12s 2 of them. New mono amp + install. Do the math. And in talking Canadian dollars. I was noob and didnt even know what the difference between 2 or 4 channel amp was back then. Do you know the difference?

I bought an old school L7 12 dvc 2ohm secondhand sub for $300, designed and built my own ported box (90ish litres) for $50 and embarrassed all my mates who had spent thousands on brand new top of the line gear.

Yeah i spent alot of money 2 on different set ups ..im still spending money because my amp went out lol i had to learn 2 not 2 trust the audio shops ..

Ye my dad taught me how to do car audio and he was a competition builder only worked wit 18s n 15s all 0gauge Memphis wire 2 orion 20k watt amps 12 6 1/2 n 6 6×9 so when I say you can trust me You can trust me with your money not like these shops over pricing for shitty stuff

alpine R are like a good surprize in your pants...yaaa!!i do world champ installs.. but a single alpine r or s....is really good and clean!!

Bros. Get the xs if u can.

Younginfamou$ lmaoo

Their running 143 strong

That hit where it hurts 😪

Lol, I do like their Amps though

Lol. "shollow mouth subs".

Shallow MOUNT bro... just subs with a very small footprint to work in very tight spaces.

@@spill1t Yes, I know what shallow mount subs are. I was laughing at the spelling " shollow mouth".

@@sirnate54 lol, I know you knew.....I was actually responding to the poor OP! Haha

@@spill1t Lol.

There are cheaper stores? That's hard to believe because Crutchfield literally gives you half of what youre buying for free

I have experienced the sealed box to have more punch but for low end hit, the ported always hit lower, ported all the way.

Back in the day (1991), my first stab at a ported enclosure was to modify a dual chamber sealed enclosure (heavily sanded Rustoleum gloss black!) into a ported one. It had my best friend's two vintage all black, steel framed, white dustcap logo, foam surround, Rockford Fosgate Punch 10's inside. About 1.1c.f. per side after the driver. I manually calculated a port size to tune it to 39Hertz and used an inexpensive program to verify. It was I think a 3 inch Schedule 40 white PVC tube cut to 9 or 10 inches. I used a round file and 80 grit sandpaper to carefully roundover and flare both ends. It was held in place with PL2000 construction adhesive/sealant. HOLY SHIT! What a HUGE difference! Louder with more punch and above 40 Hertz definitely less excursion and more power handling. MC Hammer and Snow were killing it (we were 8th graders in 1991). Any lower Q driver with an EBP in the ported range we were trying to port. Porting the 15's in the already undersized sealed enclosures was a huge mistake, and I told my friend this way ahead of time. We had to use dual 2 inch PVC ports and it was only 36Hertz. So much shuffing and poor control. Blah. Then we both heard and felt a brand new Kicker Solobaric 12 in a custom 4th order bandpass! Holy shit again! Now we were 4th bandpassing almost everything. This or sealed WITH proper volume and tuning. Two RF Series 1 gray coned, inverted cap ten's were destroying his bedroom and finally a 1989 Nissan 240SX hatch.

I've always been a "ported guy" but took verbal abuse from friends who swore by sealed for years. After decades of honing my box building skills and competing in sound quality with IASCA, people are surprised to see my subs are ported. My ears and my room full of SQ trophies tells me people are just regurgitating what they've heard. Now I'm not saying there isn't an advantage to sealed not having to deal with group delay (time it takes the rear wave to make its way through the port), but a DSP can compensate for that. Plus, the car is such a terrible listening environment that any minuscule advantage in SQ a sealed sub is supposed to have will never be heard. The benefits of deeper, louder bass with more output volume on the same amplifier are just too much to overlook with ported designs, IMO.

I disagree with you buddy. If all else is equal, e.g. box dimensions meant for subs and the correct amp power etc. then the last part of the puzzle is probably where you're finding your difference coming in - the tuning of the system. The dynamic range etc. of subs of varying sizes also accounts for something tangible. Mark's comment is therefore 100% accurate - it's not strictly speaking the size of the sub (for the music you listen to) that counts, it's about more than that.

Richard R if you crank up too much on your headunit, then your headunit is gonna send out distorted signal, so that might be how u blew it. And if u play straight sinustones for a long time, then the coil is gonna heat up alot aswell, so many «rebassed» songs are often damaging subs because theres not enough dynamics for the sub to cool down.

@@itsdenisioo9081 thanks, but I referring to how to spot a bad sub review and giving an example of one in the quotes. I've never actually blown any of mine (yet).

you can't really calculate cabin gain with a program though as every cabin and sub and box will react differently, resulting in you just having to test out different ports and box sizes to see what works best. although, for most people who aren't chasing .5 db's winisd works great

@@hawnfire lol

Morgan Bill's you can test with a sealed box and find the db or freq of your cabin. Then you tune wither to that or an octave lower so it's in the sweet spot of the impedance curve. You need win isd and a spl meter and rta. Yes every vehicle is different but there are sites that people have posted their vehicle and their sweeps so when designing if you dont have those tools you can get in the ballpark.

But I would like a vid like this

I see you are a new subscriber, thanks for joining! Tons of content coming, I just uploaded a new subwoofer box video here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/m7qBmLiX25fIdIk.html

Keep an eye out for my next subwoofer build ;)

@@CarAudioFabrication If you make a video of rolling your box 90 degrees on its face, I would laugh my ass off Mark.

Yes but now you would need to make sure you have the space in your vehicle for the inverted cones.

Basically it's forcing an amp to boost an audio signal beyond its physical capability. You're getting barely any more power beyond that turn of the gain Dial but thousands of times more distortion

rmblwgn 7:30 his graph with the smooth lines cut off on top and bottom says it all, I’ve always knew distortion kills speakers, not power, and yet that graphic of the “clipped” lines is pure genius. Thanks for chiming in.

@@woohunter1 knowing that 90% of people on the street use shitty 2channel 200 Watt amps to power their subwoofers I'm convinced that clipping is what melts voice coils. I don't know at what point I started to understand all this but it certainly wasn't when I got my first system at 16 because it took me two weeks to install a simple amp sub and radio. now 10 years later I wish I knew this basic stuff back then

I considered that sub in the past. How well does it play low bass? You consider it an SQ sub?

@@adaboy4z It's definitely got some good sound. Gets nice and low. You can't go wrong with a mojo in the proper box. Just make sure you give it the proper power, and tune nice and low, like 28-32hz

A crappy amplifier with significant output impedance will have less of a damping factor and mush up the bass by letting the woofer resonate.

Tell that to an bass guitar player....

They are faster because they are lighter, not because they are smaller.

@@Dawood4 . The are lighter because they are smaller. Duh.

@@tomcolopy5565 so, you're saying size matters? 😀

sparkomatic lol

CrashPCcz I've heard every 6db is 2x volume as well

Bout to deal with that, coming soon.

It really depends on if the subs are designed for it or not. I’ve got two MTX 12” subs. Now, I’m young and I wanted to get an affordable pair, so I just went ahead and purchased the entire bass package from MTX, subs wired up in the enclosure already, all I had to do was power the amp and run it to the subs. (Btw, for $250, hot damn, they sound great, a pretty good deal) Anyway, I mostly listen to rap, and literally every one of my friends has said, “you need to port that box,” however, MTX designed those subs to work in a completely closed off enclosure. Like I said, whether or not it needs to be ported depends on how the subs are designed.

@@ethanobenauer7083 They make a ported mtx Terminator now if you wanna get a budget ported box. Though I have the ported while my friend doesn't and they sound basically identical mine flexes a little more but that's about it

CaptainSlapaHo - Yeah, I’ve tried mine in a ported and non ported box, but imo, they sound way better non ported.

What do you mean with batting material (my english is not good enough to know what it means) cause polyfill will do something like that

Adding acoustic fiber fill is intended to cause waveform scatter as the cone goes through its excursions. This will reduce parallel waveform reflections that can cause increases or decreases in loudness at specific frequencies, based on the tuning size of your enclosure.

Objectively - It can do if done correctly. But like everything else, if not done correctly, then the gains are minimal.

Myth-ish. Proper deadening/batting/box construction can make a small volume box sound better than a poorly made larger volume box, but not really make up for the lost airspace. If you were to swap out the oversized sub with one designed for the smaller, deadened box you would still get an additional improvement in sound quality ( if the speakers were otherwise the same).

It can help a subwoofer in a box that's SLIGHTLY too small for it to behave as if it were in a SLIGHTLY larger box.

Frequency response is better Power handling is greater lot's of cheap subwoofer brand's lie Materials used are higher quality But that being said the box design is the key to quality sound and volume/db the structure of the car plays another huge role Sound deadening, stripper pole. Voltage The list goes on. Ronnie Mr6.5 Smith has awesome videos of pushing high numbers with cheap and not so cheap subs Not sure if I said too much or to little

I left an 18 inch sub in the garage through a cold winter (several days below 20 degrees), and the neoprene ring stress cracked from just sitting there. I'd venture that movement while the ring is cold enough would tear it.

Captain Drizzle a subwoofer is just the sum of its materials. If something gets hot after it’s freezing cold, and then moved around violently, it sounds like it’s possible. That being said, car subs are made to withstand more than home subs. I’m sure mine get to over 100 degrees in my car on a hot day and they’re fine.

At -25 to -35 ish celsius on cold mornings it has not been a problem for me so far. Dont think ive ever come across someone whos done it either.

Kevin Stagmo yeah, you’re right.

if the air inside an air tight sub enclosure expands because of the heat from de voice coils, hence increasing pressure, i can see it pushing the cone out long enough to fall apart during maximum excursion. idk man, i'm hella high.

White Clouds by Decaf!

@@iamzombie76 yep my fave

I had this argument with my brother today. He swears he needs to buy DVC subs to replace his SVC subs... so he can be louder

adaboy4z I know I had that discussion with other people

HAHAHAHA

This was the first thing I thought of when he asked about other subwoofer myths that we have heard.

Mark missed this one and it's a popular one! I'm turning red cos when I first got into this whole thing I also thought that! haha

I've done a build similar to this many years ago with an old Toyota Corolla and a 12" Pioneer IMPP sub that we inverted and had the port extending out and into the cabin but all hidden away. It sounded amazing.

Having divided chambers in a sealed box is a great idea.

double air. 1cuft3 per subs = 2cuft3 box

@@2869may blow one sub, and now the other sub sees TWICE the recommended air volume. The working sub will exhibit over excursion and get damaged.

@@RodofAllTrades Maybe you should think twice and research something until you comment about it. If you have a sealed box, with 2 divided chambers INSIDE then tell me how the sub would see twice the air volume. I really hope that you understand that the space between those two subs are sealed against each other.

You should punch the box full of holes and add 10000 watts to every Rockville tweet and 500000 watts to every Rockville sub

6. Bigger subs handle lower bass better. an 8 wont move air like a 18

@@ImDultra Depends. What if the 8" has a larger voice coil and motor structure than the 12 or 18"? It would then get much louder and hit lower.

For the VAST majority of folks this works perfect! And there is nothing wrong with that!

From my experience with my 12" Diamond Audio, i agree with that. 12" if you have the space, 10" if you´re limited on space. I think anything above 15" is nonsense.

I agree, 10 inch JLW6 gives me a headache sometimes...

I ended up with a pair of Infinity Kappa 1000W 450 watt RMS 10" subs paired to a 1000 watt RMS Kenwood KAC-9106d amp. Metal and well mixed classic rock never sounded so good. Lamb of God - Blacken the Cursed Sun & Ted Nugent - Wang Dang Sweet Poontang for reference.

Running 2 10" classic MTX Black Gold subs in a Neon. Plenty!! Remember to enclose your rear deck speakers to keep your subs from blowing them out!!

Simplified explanation: it has 2 sets of connections, allowing it to be wired in multiple ohm configurations. It has two separate sets of windings, each is powered separately. To get more in depth, try googling SVC vs DVC.

MD.Mamun ur Rashid Moon correct

with the same amp , yes. It adds 6db if driven by a second amp of equal power to the first. Every doubling of power adds 3 db and every adding of a same sized sub adds 3 db, so 6db total. I don't think he explained why it went to 6. So upping your amp output from 100w to 200w will add 3 db of SPL. Going from 200w to 400w will add 3 more. going from 400 to 800 will add 3 more. So going from 100w to 800w will add 9db if using the same sub. Easiest way to add DB, buy a really efficient sub to begin with. Don't buy the cheap 85db efficient sub, buy the much better ( and costs more ) 88db sub for $50 more and you gain 3 db just in sub performance. Back when I competed in the late 80's, pro subs were 94-98db efficient. We could get 120db from 200w amps. ( Amps were much more expensive and all were class a/b amps ) Now it takes 300w to 800w to get the same thing. Class D amps are cheaper so Subs have gotten less efficient.

When the subwoofers are stacked (coupled) or very close to each other it can add up to 6 DB this trick is used a lot in PA systems. Since low frequencies are omni directional any way you don’t necessarily need a stereo subwoofer setup. Because its going to be quite hard to hear where the sound is coming from anyway. Also in most mixes the kick drum and the bass guitar are panned dead center so there is no need for stereo anyhow. So thats why they are stacked, rather have the extra DB’s then have a stereo system that will likely not be used anyway.

80PRS! (99PRS IF YOU CAN LOL) and I'm an alpine guy lol

There's no replacement for displacement, but if you place and tune the speakers correctly you can definitley get big bass.

with good 8's you can get very good sounding bass, they just won't rattle stuff like a 12" will. Hell, Bose home speakers makes good sounding base with 6.5" speakers, they just don't rattle anything. A car is the easiest place to make great sound. It is an enclosed space. SPL is sound pressure level, ie the more space the more level is needed to appear impressive. Back in the late 80's when I competed, I built a few really great sounding systems with nothing larger than 8" subs. I ran an Orion 225HCCA driving 2 pairs of MBQuart 6.5" and tweeter separates and the Autotek 7050BTS driving a pair of Lanzar Pro sealed 10" subs in the 100w and under level. All in a mini truck. Won many titles with that setup.

Yes and no. But you need cone area to move air. That's just simple physics. Mass weight and suspension has a lot to say as well. Trust me, a 24 inch PD driver will do things just about any other pro 18 or 21 can only dream of. But iwll it be as fast? No, and not as articulate. But it will work great as an actual subwoofer. from about 60-70 hz and down.

Well, in a very simple sense, more come area equals more base. (I’m aware that that’s not the exact reason why, however, it is generally true) The larger the sub, the more cone area. However, it also just depends on quality. I have a relatively expensive set of 2 MTX 12” subs in my car, they sound good, hit hard and fast, and are amazing value for what they cost. However, my dad has 2 10” subs in his car that are wayyyyyy louder and produce ridiculous amounts more bass, can’t remember the brand but they’re some sort of badass made for competition subs. However, in the majority of cases, bigger subs do actually mean more bass.

You need a 1000/1 per sub. You'll thank me later lol

Jeremy Moore @ yea those W7 are jus getting started with 500watts

I got one 1000/ in the house, i gotta get well from surgery. Then ill buy another, then send one sub back to jl to fix cause a ex friend/my boi put something in the trunk and busted one.

@ Jeremy But do i need a alternator?

YES you will need an aftermarket alternator once you start getting into the larger power numbers, the shop did nothing wrong by starting you off with the 500 watt amps (although strange not to do a single 1000)

Same here. If you're able to move the box around, you should try positioning it so that there's like a horn effect. That seemed to help for me

Gabriel Borrego @ I love my three 10TW3’s seriously if their installed correctly their monstrous and yet so compact. Powering my three off just their HD750/1

You said tw3 go 13 huh?

I went from a single TW3 in a 0.5cf sealed box driven by a JL XD 600 amp to a TW5 in a 1.2cf sealed box driven by a Audio control 800.1 and they are VERY different. I love how deep the TW5 sounds by I do miss the tight punchy bass of the TW3.

What is the t in tw3, and tw5?

should add that a larger sub *All things being equal* would sound louder at less power due to the larger surface area of the sub. You push more air....

Bet u wouldn't say that to Douglas face nanana bobo

Leave the man alone

The magnetic fields is stronger especially is it's not a cheap magnetic no myth…

measure HxLxW and subtract add the thickness of the mdf

Pushing the bass eq on a fac radio if you have a sub installed actually works...but not cranked all the way up obviously.

I know this is an old post, but: A properly designed ported enclosure does not have a slower response than a sealed enclosure. That is a myth. Actually the converse can be true if well designed, since a properly tuned port allows the diaphragm to respond faster to the signal, with variable suspension that is tight where control is needed, and more compliant when required. Not all ported enclosures are properly designed, in fact most commercial ones are designed to keep costs down since it is cheaper and easier to get an underwhelming driver to perform adequately, than it is to fit a decent driver in a sealed enclosure and get good low end extension. And not all of them are designed with linear frequency response in mind. Some are actually designed to maximise gain around a certain frequency, and this is a calculated move to match cabin/room gain - in competitive cases it isn't poorly designed, it's just a one note wonder/burp box designed for maximum SPL. Remember that the port contains a specific amount of air, and that air has mass, that's exactly why it is possible to tune a port in terms of cross-sectional area, and length to get a desired resonance. Typically for the purpose of extending the bass shelf - and although it has a sharper roll-off than sealed enclosures, the F3 can be adjusted to be a fair bit lower down the frequency scale than anything you could achieve with a sealed enclosure. I have yet to see a 12 inch sealed sub hit 18Hz with any authority whatsoever. They are mostly underwhelming, even when you throw 2 KW at them. It just isn't feasible. That air in the port also acts as a spring, and around the tuning frequency it works in conjunction with the the internal volume of the the enclosure in terms of dampening - which is the opposite of loose and slow bass - which makes your point slight bit of misinformation. What does happen, is because of how bass works, lower frequencies have longer wavelengths, so ported enclosures are technically slower (in terms of Hz) and because of the reinforcement granted by the port (which acts like a passive radiator at those frequencies) the bass has a much more audible decay since it hits harder. And because it can hit those lows with so much authority, room interaction is more prevalent - which, due to the wavelengths concerned (18Hz being nearly 20 meters), creates unintentional group delays and standing waves. This is what you perceive as "slow bass". And if your sealed sub could hit those lows with the same authority, you'd have the exact same phenomenon occurring. This is why multi-sub setups are so popular in Home Theatre applications, having more drivers placed equidistant from the listening position, eliminates the need to over-drive a single sub to reach all listeners without creating detrimental room interactions or reinforcing unwanted peaks, only when done right.